The 3D printer thread

Potmetal Window latches in the bus keep breaking and this style is proving to be unobtanium. :idea:

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87manche said:
Been fighting with this Crealty PETG filament printing like ****... MF, it wants to run 10*C hotter than my other PETG. Bumped up the nozzle temp and looking good so far. Lesson, pay attention to the label on your spool when swapping filament. :shaking:
Click to expand...
This is bambu PETG
budget76 said:
Been fighting with this Crealty PETG filament printing like ****... MF, it wants to run 10*C hotter than my other PETG. Bumped up the nozzle temp and looking good so far. Lesson, pay attention to the label on your spool when swapping filament. :shaking:
Click to expand...
Bed was cleaned, both PETG And PLA had the issue, i think it must be extruder.....
 
Lee said:
I mostly use their PETG, the Creality PETG settings under Generic on Orca Slicer work great for K1 Max.
Click to expand...
i can not get petg to work with generic setting. actually gave up on for now. good here u can make it work though gonna try a differnt brand before i throw in the towel
 
I just hucked the cheapest petg I could find in my ****, Isanmate? Making bat boxes, 500gr per, cheap was the goal. I think was like $10 a kg.
did a temp tower, flow rate, pressure advance, max flow rate and sent it. Didn't even dry it, but it needed it I got some blisters.

What slicer are you using? If orca based, have you done all the calibration things? I've not had them steer me wrong on tailoring the generic profiles to specific filaments.
also, z offset is still a thing that needs adjusted even on a corexy machine. Done it? If you're having adhesion issues I would.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i can not get petg to work with generic setting. actually gave up on for now. good here u can make it work though gonna try a differnt brand before i throw in the towel
Click to expand...
Overture PETG has been hit or miss with me. That was the first filament I ever printed on the old CR-10 V2, fresh out of the box, Cura slicer settings from some random Reddit post. Lulled me into a false sense of accomplishment it worked so well. Then I learned about humidity, cold air drafts, how terrible the CR-10 was at remaining level, etc.

I quit Overture, switched to mostly Creality & Polymaker, and haven't had many issues. Sunlu has been okay too.

I recently needed some green PETG, got some Overture, there weren't any pre-populated settings for it in Orca for my printer. I tried settings for generic and Creality, and it was pretty crappy, goupy and stringy. I wasted a bunch of time fiddling with settings, made things worse. Then I bought some green Creality filament and it printed great.

For all I know it's made in the same Chinese factory as the filament that actually works for me, but I continue to avoid Overture.
 
Void_of_Light said:
Weird, I use overture almost exclusively and have never had an issue with it. I just used the settings on the roll and let her print.
Click to expand...

The TPU I'm printing is overture as well, printing awesome. I'm actually fairly impressed with how easy this has gone. famous last words....
 
I've used overture in the past without issue and the new tpu i bought is overture.

Other then not liking the filament handler it's been good. Printed out a scope eyepiece the other day
 
I have a project that I need to break up into several pieces. It would need 6 separate parts and I Having trouble getting started.

I have a milwaukee packout organizer and want to use as fishing organizer. Someone took a 3d scan of the milwaukee packout interior which is ****in awesome. I was to use that file in tinkercad as a 'hole' and make my organizers on the hole to make a nice snug fit. But I tried putting that stl file into tinkercad but it says too many angles or something.

I then tried putting the stl file into orca slicer and then cut out each corner and save it, but it saves as 3mf and tinkercad does not read it. I can use the cut feature after i modify my stl file but i need to get a file into tinkercad first. I need to reduce the file size or something or use a different program. How do i do that ?
 
Made a milwaukee lantern. I have leftover flexible led strip and had the switch from an old project and it all fit perfect. Great for camping
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Final version of backpack molle fishing rod holders
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Fishnbeer said:
I have a milwaukee packout organizer and want to use as fishing organizer. Someone took a 3d scan of the milwaukee packout interior which is ****in awesome. I was to use that file in tinkercad as a 'hole' and make my organizers on the hole to make a nice snug fit. But I tried putting that stl file into tinkercad but it says too many angles or something.
Click to expand...
The downside of 3D scans is that they often end up being HUGE files because instead of a simple plane that plane is made up of a bazillion dots in space - which takes a significant amount of computer horsepower to work with.

Do you have a link to the scan you're talking about?
 
Solidworks for hobbyists is like $25/yr and should be able to import the .stl, then save it as a .sldprt, but you’ll still need to build solid features on top of it to really design around it
 
Thanks, I'll mess with that later. Still new to CAD design, only been using for a few months now but figuring it out
 
Was bs'ing with my fil, he bought a printer after seeing mine. Apparently chatgpt will **** out files if you give it dimensions and some details. Color me impressed as my cad is lacking. Will have to try it. It made exactly what he wanted (shelf bracket covers)
 
Java230 said:
Was bs'ing with my fil, he bought a printer after seeing mine. Apparently chatgpt will **** out files if you give it dimensions and some details. Color me impressed as my cad is lacking. Will have to try it. It made exactly what he wanted (shelf bracket covers)
Click to expand...
It wasted a few hours trying to do this.
Then it tried to help me do it in blender. No luck.
 
Fishnbeer said:
I then tried putting the stl file into orca slicer and then cut out each corner and save it, but it saves as 3mf and tinkercad does not read it. I can use the cut feature after i modify my stl file but i need to get a file into tinkercad first. I need to reduce the file size or something or use a different program. How do i do that ?
Click to expand...
Use the measure feature in Orca combined with a tape measure and your real box and reverse engineer it.
 
so i saw some one made a drive shaft laser point to help dial in that stuff. a little 9mm bore laser went into a 3d printed plug that went inside a socket that hit your yoke. then saw others use a ujoint and laser. so i went a different route.
mine lays down inside the yoke with the flat plate resting on top and bolts to the yoke. the half circle is the ujoint so it self centers in the yoke and the width of the that half circle is length of that ujoint so it fit damn near perfect in the yoke.

the big hole with the arrow going to it is for a laster pointer to go. it is centered
this is for a 1310 yoke but can make for any size
so the thought is put laser in the flat plate and move axle to where you need it to go. its all a theory
that has not been test yet. but. lol

and that is the laser i used. many out there to try but ended up on this one. i like the magnetic base because it can be used for other stuff too.

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HMM. now I'm wondering if I can do that with my laser level locked and stick it to the rear diff flange to see what the alignment actually looks like.

may have to try that tonight
 
Well, I tried my first print last night and the extruder doesn't feed. I have the same extruder in 2.85mm, so I plugged it in and it doesn't feed either. Just a quick clunk when commanded on and then nothing.
I'm hoping it's just a bad ribbon cable and not a bad driver on the board.
 
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