The 3D printer thread

['84 Bronco II]

But why would I want to do multi material parts?

I get wanting multi filament support for when I want to do an embedded seal (rare) or if I want to print a part and print a gasket for it in the same shot while I do something else but I just don't see the utility of combining multiple plastics in the same part except in the rarest of circumstances like adding ABS anti-kink features to a TPU molded hose or something.

But everyone seems to act like it's a big deal. I feel like I must be missing something.

It is a bigger deal for aesthetic prints so you can use different colors. For functional parts, the advantage is being able to print a dedicated support material that can more easily be removed (water soluble) instead of wasting expensive materials like PA-CF or PC-CF.

 

[Ummduh]

Sounds like I should buy a Carbon 1 and stick a filament dryer on the desk beside it and just accept that I'll waste a couple feet of filament switching around between parts.

Eventually you'll realize that a foot of a filament isn't even a blip on the radar of filament waste 😂

 

[arse_sidewards]

It is a bigger deal for aesthetic prints so you can use different colors. For functional parts, the advantage is being able to print a dedicated support material that can more easily be removed (water soluble) instead of wasting expensive materials like PA-CF or PC-CF.

How much cheaper is the water soluble stuff?

I'd need to print a ton before that breaks even, right?

Eventually you'll realize that a foot of a filament isn't even a blip on the radar of filament waste 😂

Yeah I figure that one screwed up print because the drawing was wrong wastes many feet of filament.

 

[Ummduh]

How much cheaper is the water soluble stuff?

I'd need to print a ton before that breaks even, right?


Yeah I figure that one screwed up print because the drawing was wrong wastes many feet of filament.

I haven't used the water soluble support material, but I gotta image the main benefit is being able to remove the supports without leaving all the ****ty parts behind. Getting supports off can be a real **********er sometimes. Getting them removed cleanly isnt always a given.

I just wasted about a half a spool of asa because I ****ed up the radius on the part and didn't catch it. And it was an 18hr print.

 

[CarterKraft]

Having still not done a multi filament print but having the ability... the time to filament change on a single nozzle gets pretty long winded.

My suggestion for anyone at this point was to get a tool changer unless you are literally gonna run one filament EVER>

 

[Lee]

I got the Creality chamber heater and the CFS-C for the K1 Max over the weekend.

I've read some horror stories about the CFS-C, but think I'm going to give it a go anyway. My K1 Max is a '25 model, and SHOULDN'T have the firmware issues the earlier models seem to be having. Keep your fingers crossed.


My budget Elegoo resin printer has become anything but. I now have 3 resin tanks, a second print bed, a chamber heater, 4x liters of resin, a fancy funnel, 100x funnel filters, a gallon of 99% isopropyl alcohol, some mica powder for tinting resin, some silicone measuring cups, larger cleaning containers, and I'm sure some other junk I'm forgetting.

---

I've volunteered myself to make custom medallions for a charity auction event this fall. The Elegoo is going to be putting in some work. They did a segment during the charity auction last year where attendees could purchase a "coin" for $20, and they gave away 2 pretty decent items during the auction via coin flip. Everyone in the audience that bought a "coin" chose heads or tails, held their coin up whatever they chose facing out. Auctioneer flipped a coin, if that coin flip was opposite of what you chose, you set back down, until there were only 2 people left, and they got to get their items. The "coins" last year were laminated piece of paper, and the event staff requested the audience return their coins so they could be used again in the future. I figured if folks would pay $20 for a laminated piece of paper they don't even get to keep, they'd pay $30 or $40 for a physical keep sake, and I put a hole in it so they can make a Christmas ornament or something out of it.

Of course I didn't take any pictures of the actual coins I printed, and the event committee has the prototypes. Here's what they looked like in CAD. They're 2-1/2" in diameter, maybe a little small still, I just arbitrarily picked that size after googling "diameter of a half dollar," and thinking, "nah, that's too small." I figure we can do different colors or color combos each year, get folks wanting to collect them. Plenty of room for improvement, the committee mostly likes them, and I've already tweaked the design some based on their feedback. One committee member doesn't want folks to keep them for some dumb reason? No point in putting the year on them if that's the case. I may just tell the committee I'm not making them if folks don't get to take them home with them. I have no obligation to them, just volunteering time and resin.

 

[CarterKraft]

I got the Creality chamber heater and the CFS-C for the K1 Max over the weekend.

I've read some horror stories about the CFS-C, but think I'm going to give it a go anyway. My K1 Max is a '25 model, and SHOULDN'T have the firmware issues the earlier models seem to be having. Keep your fingers crossed.


My budget Elegoo resin printer has become anything but. I now have 3 resin tanks, a second print bed, a chamber heater, 4x liters of resin, a fancy funnel, 100x funnel filters, a gallon of 99% isopropyl alcohol, some mica powder for tinting resin, some silicone measuring cups, larger cleaning containers, and I'm sure some other junk I'm forgetting.

---

I've volunteered myself to make custom medallions for a charity auction event this fall. The Elegoo is going to be putting in some work. They did a segment during the charity auction last year where attendees could purchase a "coin" for $20, and they gave away 2 pretty decent items during the auction via coin flip. Everyone in the audience that bought a "coin" chose heads or tails, held their coin up whatever they chose facing out. Auctioneer flipped a coin, if that coin flip was opposite of what you chose, you set back down, until there were only 2 people left, and they got to get their items. The "coins" last year were laminated piece of paper, and the event staff requested the audience return their coins so they could be used again in the future. I figured if folks would pay $20 for a laminated piece of paper they don't even get to keep, they'd pay $30 or $40 for a physical keep sake, and I put a hole in it so they can make a Christmas ornament or something out of it.

Of course I didn't take any pictures of the actual coins I printed, and the event committee has the prototypes. Here's what they looked like in CAD. They're 2-1/2" in diameter, maybe a little small still, I just arbitrarily picked that size after googling "diameter of a half dollar," and thinking, "nah, that's too small." I figure we can do different colors or color combos each year, get folks wanting to collect them. Plenty of room for improvement, the committee mostly likes them, and I've already tweaked the design some based on their feedback. One committee member doesn't want folks to keep them for some dumb reason? No point in putting the year on them if that's the case. I may just tell the committee I'm not making them if folks don't get to take them home with them. I have no obligation to them, just volunteering time and resin.

Some people just don't get how **** works...

 

[andrew_ln65]

superfastmatt just posted up a metal 3d print video. For the price he paid for the parts, I'd probably just keep outsourcing in the short term unless I was REALLY doing a lot of parts. wasn't all that expensive, I think he paid $1k for a custom intake manifold for his salt flat car that he admitted was overbuilt and could have cut down on cost if he cut down on wall thickness

I have a buddy that gets a lot of small parts metal 3d printed and the price is indeed ridiculously cheap. Like anything though I'd much rather have the machine in my shop instead of waiting on lead times etc.

Intake manifold hey, I hadn't even thought of that. I have plans to print a tricky adaptor from throttle body to airbox on my Hilux, was just planning on using PACF, I might quote it out in ally or Ti just for fun. I wonder how it goes with overhangs/bridges?

 

[Lee]

Some people just don't get how **** works...

I'm keeping things intentionally vague, but you have no idea how accurate that statement is in this scenario.

 

[willindsay]

Original carbon is $319
Carbon with 4 material feed system is $449
P1s with no AMS is $400
AMS is another $300.
If you want a single filament no frills machine, Carbon 1.
if you want nicer single filament machine P1s.
if you want no frills works multi filament for cheap carbon 2
p1s or p2s with AMS is the nice option.



If you want to go to a website, download a pre sliced file for a model and hit print, Bambu is for you. It's like the apple of 3d printing.
The carbon 2 technically has a hotend capable of going to 350C vs the 320C of the Carbon, but the hotends are the same. The thermistor is different. I don't think you'll ever need to go higher than 320. I print nylon at 280.

basically the multi filament option is the big difference. The CC2 has a nicer camera, whoopity do. The enclosure frame is the same, the hotends are identical mechanically, they just added a 4 filament feeder to it and refined it a bit. Bigger screen, **** like that. Functionally it's the same.
edit:
all the carbons come with hardened bi metal nozzles. I've printed KGs of reinforced filament with them and replacements are dirt cheap. They are consumable like plasma cutter nozzles.
as far as "fine" performance.
well, I've been 3dprinting since the times when you had to buy a reprap kit and assemble it yourself. This thing out of the box made a print as good as I ever did in an hour, with zero tweaking.
I'm 400+ hours in and 95% of my problems were user induced while tinkering.
Whatever cheap printer you buy you'll have to mod a chamber heater into it for the nylon/asa/abs.
The one advantage the OG carbon has is that there's enough space inside it to mount the spool inside the chamber, which is nice for nylon since it loves the water and it will **** up your print.

Elegoo Released the Canvas system today for the CC1 and it's only $55 and adds the 4 color feed system same as the CC2.

 

[87manche]

I haven't used the water soluble support material, but I gotta image the main benefit is being able to remove the supports without leaving all the ****ty parts behind. Getting supports off can be a real **********er sometimes. Getting them removed cleanly isnt always a given.

I just wasted about a half a spool of asa because I ****ed up the radius on the part and didn't catch it. And it was an 18hr print.

This.

It took me a bit to get nylon supports to the point that the snapped of clean. Removing supports sucks.

But unless you do a tool changer you're not gonna do it anyway because it will take far too long for the material change over every time.

I could run PLA supports, but it would add hours of time.
Which is why tool changing machines will be the next big evolution.

 

[87manche]

I have a buddy that gets a lot of small parts metal 3d printed and the price is indeed ridiculously cheap. Like anything though I'd much rather have the machine in my shop instead of waiting on lead times etc.

Intake manifold hey, I hadn't even thought of that. I have plans to print a tricky adaptor from throttle body to airbox on my Hilux, was just planning on using PACF, I might quote it out in ally or Ti just for fun. I wonder how it goes with overhangs/bridges?

Check out the couch built youtube channel.
Guys stuffing a rotary into a bmw i8 for some cursed reason and using CAD and 3d printed metal extensively.

 

[87manche]

Elegoo Released the Canvas system today for the CC1 and it's only $55 and adds the 4 color feed system same as the CC2.

No ****.

Well at least they finally kept that promise

 

[CarterKraft]

I'm keeping things intentionally vague, but you have no idea how accurate that statement is in this scenario.

I'm a board member of a similar organization and I have similar experiences I think.

 

[87manche]

so I was going to figure out insulating the chamber and the like. Get some bubble duct insulation, something.

nah, just toss two bath towels over it and be done.

also greatly increased the dryers efficiency.

never forget your towel.

 

[budget76]

anyone got a favorite robust 12V power lug / buss bar model? Found a couple / may design my own just for the CAD practice but I also have minimal free time

like these. single or multi. I've got a spool of ABS and too many random bolts to spend $$ on these

 

[WhiteTrash303]

Well, I finally finished my enclosure. I had the extrusion laying around from another project and bought a roll of foiled foam insulation that is supposed to be flame-resistant and carries an R-18 value. As much as I wanted to cover it in tin, I didn't want to spend the money or drive 100 miles to pick some up. So, Masonite it is.

I put a 4 inch duct in the back corner that feeds into the base. I will have to print up some sort of carbon filter holder and fan setup for it. If it still stinks after that, I will just plumb it up to the chimney hole above it

The thought of the electronics sitting in the heated chamber concerned me, so I separated the machine's electronics enclosure from the framework. Now there is a 50mm air gap between that and the heated chamber.

Now I need to decide what to do with the filament dryer. Keep it in the enclosure and hope the heat doesn't screw with the screen on it. Maybe use some brake line to feed filament from it to the top of the printer. Or I can set it outside the enclosure and on top. I'll probably have to figure out a wheel or something from the dryer to feed into the top of it because of the angle. I don't know what sort of force the extruder can pull.

 

[87manche]

wel tossing some towels over the thing certainly made it warm.

problem, I printed the dryboxes out of PLA and the top one sagged with a 60C chamber temp cooking it and now the lid doesn't fit.

I guess I need to print these in petg.
whoopsies.

form 1 approved today, so I guess this weekend we print a suppressor for a rifle?
neat.

 

[Java230]

My X1C spaghettied again..... ****ing hell, it was fine, and now does not like the PETG.... Wet maybe? Printed PLA fine last night (both in the same AMS)

 

[Ummduh]

wel tossing some towels over the thing certainly made it warm.

problem, I printed the dryboxes out of PLA and the top one sagged with a 60C chamber temp cooking it and now the lid doesn't fit.

I guess I need to print these in petg.
whoopsies.

form 1 approved today, so I guess this weekend we print a suppressor for a rifle?
neat.

I did exactly the same thing trying to figure out nylon.

Asa will hold up to the heat.

I was able to get the chamber well over 60c but the machine itself did NOT like it. I keep the chamber to 55c or lower now.

 

[Java230]

Ggggrrrr

 

[87manche]

I did exactly the same thing trying to figure out nylon.

Asa will hold up to the heat.

I was able to get the chamber well over 60c but the machine itself did NOT like it. I keep the chamber to 55c or lower now.

The machine itself seemd to tolerate it fine.

but my pla box attached to the side certainly did not.
I'm trying to figure out the polymaker nylon now and it's definitely different than the sunlu. doesn't seem to want near as high temps for bed/chamber.

 

[Donk]

Ggggrrrr

I've found PETG doesn't like being printed on a plate that's had PLA on it. Try scrubbing really well or have separate plates (or flip it if the surface is the same both sides)

 

[Ummduh]

The machine itself seemd to tolerate it fine.

but my pla box attached to the side certainly did not.
I'm trying to figure out the polymaker nylon now and it's definitely different than the sunlu. doesn't seem to want near as high temps for bed/chamber.

For what I was printing, I had to go extremely slow with nylon. I think I was down under 50mm/s. Actually I think I was closer to 25mm/s. It was the only way I could get it to not warp. Chamber temps didn't make much difference after ~50c.

Straight nylon is the most difficult filament I've worked with so far. What a pita.

 

[Ummduh]

Trying TPU for the first time. Have a benchy printing. I put in a 0.6 nozzle and printing at 0.3mm.

So far, I found that on layer 2 when the side and extruder fan go straight to 100%, the pid loop can't compensate fast enough and the printer faults with a extruder heating fault. I turned max fan speed down to 50% and so far so good


Ultimate goal is printing some isolators for my fuel cell mount.

Btw, my 0.4 nozzle that I used thermaltake CPU heatsink compound on came right on out without issues. It was definitely dry though. The new nozzles came with different paste I used this time.

 

[Java230]

I've found PETG doesn't like being printed on a plate that's had PLA on it. Try scrubbing really well or have separate plates (or flip it if the surface is the same both sides)

Interesting. I printed a whole roll of Grey petg before this one

 

[Lee]

Btw, my 0.4 nozzle that I used thermaltake CPU heatsink compound on came right on out without issues. It was definitely dry though. The new nozzles came with different paste I used this time.

I was intentionally looking for cheap stuff for 3D printer nozzles, settled on this stuff, and have been pleased with this stuff so far.
Gelid GC-4-3.5g Thermal Compound

I'm a LONG time Arctic Silver user that gave into the hype and switched to Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut in the last few years. I didn't want to "waste" my good stuff on the 3D printer.

 

[87manche]

So the poly maker pacf is twice as expensive as sunlu pagf.

Worth it.
Did 14 hour print with .4 nozzle and it's perfect.
290 nozzle
50 bed
45 chamber
My threads are correct

 

[Ummduh]

Printing TPU turned out awesome. A slight amount of stringing but I haven't attempted to fix it.

This was the easiest way I could think of to print this and not have to try supports or fight overhangs. I think it turned out awesome.

It's a fuel cell isolator, between the strap and the tank. Even put some locator pins in it so it won't move around.

I did this at 25% infill, probably could have used way less. It's really stiff. This is A 95.

 

[Ummduh]

I was intentionally looking for cheap stuff for 3D printer nozzles, settled on this stuff, and have been pleased with this stuff so far.
Gelid GC-4-3.5g Thermal Compound

I'm a LONG time Arctic Silver user that gave into the hype and switched to Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut in the last few years. I didn't want to "waste" my good stuff on the 3D printer.

Someone else had mentioned a while back to not use CPU style paste on stuff that gets this hot. That was of course after I had already used it.

My nozzle kit came with a small packet of crealitys paste. I just ordered a tube of creality's meant for the nozzles.