i made a bushing.... 3d printed

[richardskinner]

I am looking in to these as well.

What level puter you guys using to run fusion? Not sure if my old junk will be up to it....

I run Solidworks, but have also mess with Fusion a bit. If you have something from 2010 to now, it'd probably be ok on Fusion. Especially considering you're just making single parts and not large assemblies of parts.

 

[Weasel]

I am looking in to these as well.

What level puter you guys using to run fusion? Not sure if my old junk will be up to it....

I run Solidworks on a older Dell M series computer and it works well enough, can get slow with assemblies. There was some graphics issues but got them side stepped and installed 16gb of ram which helps. Nice thing with cad is it not core heavy, lots of ram really helps.

 

[Tinstar]

Here's what Autodesk says is required. F360

I had to upgrade from my old business computer, it had no real graphics card.

Apparently, 3D printing is an addiction. I have 4 now and am looking at ordering some more. Designing and building things that didn't exist before is pretty fun.

The actual printing is pretty slow.

 

[richardskinner]

I'm thread jacking a little bit, but I have about 2/3 of this transmission printed. It's a damn good model and will be really cool for my kid to learn with. Ultimately I'll print the entire 22re, W56, and dual cases.


Part files

Working 5 speed transmission model for Toyota 22RE engine by ericthepoolboy

All my models are printed on a Prusa i3 kit. You can find the one I use by clicking the link below. You can get 15% off by using code "GBTE"Tronxy Prusa I3This is the 5 speed transmission that comes bolted to the back of a 22RE. This is the 4WD version of the transmission so it has a mounting...

www.thingiverse.com

Toyota 4 Cylinder Engine 22RE, Complete working model by ericthepoolboy

Complete hardware kits that include all the non-printed parts can be found over at MakerRxComplete hardware kitsCompletely reverse engineered Toyota 22RE 4 cylinder engine. Can completely print a fully rotating model. Working crank, pistons, and valve train. The valves open and close!!!. It...

www.thingiverse.com

Working Gear Driven 4WD Toyota Transfer Case Model by ericthepoolboy

All my models are printed on a Prusa i3 kit. You can find the one I use by clicking the link below. You can get 15% off by using code "GBTE"Tronxy Prusa I3The last piece for the 22RE and W56 transmission. 4WD gear driven transfer case model. Printed on a Kossel mini. Everything in PLA with 30%...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[chaplinfj60]

thats bad ass , i have looked at them files a bunch actually. how many hours have you been printing so far?

 

[richardskinner]

thats bad ass , i have looked at them files a bunch actually. how many hours have you been printing so far?

I'll post a pic tonight of what I have done and rough guess on hours. The entire trans by itself I would guess will take probably 72-96 hours on the printer itself lol. I sliced all the part files in one session so I just fire the fucker off on an overnight print, clear the build plate in the morning, and repeat so it prints while I'm at work.

Printing this in PETG. My Ender3 really seems to do well with that stuff and it holds up to warping better than PLA and is much less brittle seeming. I really like eSun PETG.

 

[chaplinfj60]

i cant get petg on my ender to do a good print to save my life, always strings everywhere, i know its has to be something with retraction or what ever but never dived in to too much

 

[richardskinner]

i cant get petg on my ender to do a good print to save my life, always strings everywhere, i know its has to be something with retraction or what ever but never dived in to too much

I use the base settings from Cura for "Generic PETG" on the latest version. I get some whispey spider web like stringing, but It all pulls off easily and I pass a lighter over everything to knock it back. You can see a before and after. Some areas I need to gently scrape, but overall it's good. I need to scrape a little on the rear of the trans in the second photo if you look closely near the ribbing.

Beer and lighter for scale

 

[AKnate]

I didn't realize how slow those printers are. 12hrs for a bushing.

I had in mind it was a couple minutes process.

 

[chaplinfj60]

thats reassuring, mines looks like that often, so its just not me. hahhaah thanks never thought about a lights to clean up the strings. wow easy idea. hhahaah

 

[chaplinfj60]

couple minutes no.... so each line that is laid down for no better way to put it is .4 of a mm or something crazy. that maybe my nozzle width. think of it like a MRI scan 1000s of layers to get to the top, and its filling in the walls also.

 

[Thatg9659]

so that bushing i made was 70% infil, so 100 % i think would be the cats meow. i don't have anything that has leaf springs. or i would have them in now, we need someone who would test out a set, hmmmmmm

I’ll test them out doing duke boy shit in my ranger.

 

[chaplinfj60]

send me your bushing size and would be happy to print a set out. now the designing as simple as it is, thats my down fall. takes a minute for me to do that. but.... i would love to see how they hold up. we could a side to side comparison, factory on left front spring and printed on right. go abuse and report back. lol

 

[AKnate]

couple minutes no.... so each line that is laid down for no better way to put it is .4 of a mm or something crazy. that maybe my nozzle width. think of it like a MRI scan 1000s of layers to get to the top, and its filling in the walls also.

I've never seen one in action. I guess I imagined something like a CNC mill where small parts are done usually fairly quickly.

 

[chaplinfj60]

this is a long vid but you can just click different places in the vid to see it in action in time lapse

they even make filament that has saw dust mix into filament and metal too. its crazy how many things are printed on a industrial scale too. omg crazy.

 

[Tinstar]

i cant get petg on my ender to do a good print to save my life, always strings everywhere, i know its has to be something with retraction or what ever but never dived in to too much

I was having trouble with PETG at first. Now its my go to filament. Cura slicer.

Look up "CHEP" on youtube. He has a great video on printing PETG and shares his profiles.
"Teaching Tech" also has great videos. He has an awesome tuning page he made.

Retraction (6 or so), speed (30 or 40 mm/s), temperature (240-245c), coasting (.05 to 1.0) and wipe distance (about .1 or .2 more that your nozzle size) will likely get your stringing under control.

I've been running larger nozzles lately with a lot of success. (.6 and .8) That speeds up print times more that almost anything else.

Dry your filament and keep it dry. Leave PETG sitting out for a few days and it will suck moisture and suck printing.

 

[OHV Wildcat]

Well, thanks to this thread, I’m jumping in with both feet. I have an Ender 5 S1 on order. Thanks for blowing my credit card rewards, everyone!

 

[Tinstar]

Well, thanks to this thread, I’m jumping in with both feet. I have an Ender 5 S1 on order. Thanks for blowing my credit card rewards, everyone!

Have you seen the Ratrig V-Minion...........

 

[chaplinfj60]

I was having trouble with PETG at first. Now its my go to filament. Cura slicer.

Look up "CHEP" on youtube. He has a great video on printing PETG and shares his profiles.
"Teaching Tech" also has great videos. He has an awesome tuning page he made.

Retraction (6 or so), speed (30 or 40 mm/s), temperature (240-245c), coasting (.05 to 1.0) and wipe distance (about .1 or .2 more that your nozzle size) will likely get your stringing under control.

I've been running larger nozzles lately with a lot of success. (.6 and .8) That speeds up print times more that almost anything else.

Dry your filament and keep it dry. Leave PETG sitting out for a few days and it will suck moisture and suck printing.

once i get something going on the printer again i will try these setting.

more than anything there was some much new terminology it was like brain over load. retraction, nozzle size, what the fuck is that. now after having it 2 years i under stand what people are saying and get it.

so changing out the nozzle, do you also have to tell CURA in the setting?

 

[richardskinner]

once i get something going on the printer again i will try these setting.

more than anything there was some much new terminology it was like brain over load. retraction, nozzle size, what the fuck is that. now after having it 2 years i under stand what people are saying and get it.

so changing out the nozzle, do you also have to tell CURA in the setting?

I literally use Cura's "Generic PETG" material setting for eSun PETG and have 0.4mm nozzle selected because that's what was on the print head. Their settings are 240C/70C. I couldn't tell you the other stuff in the background because it just worked so I haven't tuned it.

 

[OHV Wildcat]

Have you seen the Ratrig V-Minion...........

I ask this out of ignorance. What would be the advantage to this compared to the Ender 5? I’m seeing bigger print area on the 5, and it seems to be pretty high-speed.

 

[chaplinfj60]

bigger print means bigger parts. knowing what i know know i think i would have likes to have a bigger print bed. fo instace how cool would it be to print your own ducting for turbo or something/

 

[chaplinfj60]

so has anyone made these little guys yet? for a 205 tcase. the rubber plugs on top

 

[richardskinner]

bigger print means bigger parts. knowing what i know know i think i would have likes to have a bigger print bed. fo instace how cool would it be to print your own ducting for turbo or something/

It's worth trying, but I think you'll have trouble. I've printed an electrical enclosure on my work printer (Stratasys F370 - like a $60k printer) out of ABS and made a channel to put a gasket in. Long story short, it wouldn't hold water.

Seems like the layer steps may have some very small gapping occasionally that makes it permeable. I don't think a pressure application would work.

I have thought about trying to thin ABS cement and very lightly brush it over a surface to chemically seal it.

 

[Etyler2]

That’s cool, he gave me one of his short blocks many years ago.

I'm thread jacking a little bit, but I have about 2/3 of this transmission printed. It's a damn good model and will be really cool for my kid to learn with. Ultimately I'll print the entire 22re, W56, and dual cases.


Part files

Working 5 speed transmission model for Toyota 22RE engine by ericthepoolboy

All my models are printed on a Prusa i3 kit. You can find the one I use by clicking the link below. You can get 15% off by using code "GBTE"Tronxy Prusa I3This is the 5 speed transmission that comes bolted to the back of a 22RE. This is the 4WD version of the transmission so it has a mounting...

www.thingiverse.com

Toyota 4 Cylinder Engine 22RE, Complete working model by ericthepoolboy

Complete hardware kits that include all the non-printed parts can be found over at MakerRxComplete hardware kitsCompletely reverse engineered Toyota 22RE 4 cylinder engine. Can completely print a fully rotating model. Working crank, pistons, and valve train. The valves open and close!!!. It...

www.thingiverse.com

Working Gear Driven 4WD Toyota Transfer Case Model by ericthepoolboy

All my models are printed on a Prusa i3 kit. You can find the one I use by clicking the link below. You can get 15% off by using code "GBTE"Tronxy Prusa I3The last piece for the 22RE and W56 transmission. 4WD gear driven transfer case model. Printed on a Kossel mini. Everything in PLA with 30%...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[chaplinfj60]

It's worth trying, but I think you'll have trouble. I've printed an electrical enclosure on my work printer (Stratasys F370 - like a $60k printer) out of ABS and made a channel to put a gasket in. Long story short, it wouldn't hold water.

Seems like the layer steps may have some very small gapping occasionally that makes it permeable. I don't think a pressure application would work.

I have thought about trying to thin ABS cement and very lightly brush it over a surface to chemically seal it.

i can see them lines being a weak point not able to hold pressure or fluid. never thought bout it but makes since

 

[Tinstar]

once i get something going on the printer again i will try these setting.

more than anything there was some much new terminology it was like brain over load. retraction, nozzle size, what the fuck is that. now after having it 2 years i under stand what people are saying and get it.

so changing out the nozzle, do you also have to tell CURA in the setting?

Yes, the nozzle setting is in the center drop down menu where you select the filament type.

 

[Tinstar]

I ask this out of ignorance. What would be the advantage to this compared to the Ender 5? I’m seeing bigger print area on the 5, and it seems to be pretty high-speed.

The biggest advantage is that the Ratrig is an open-source machine for parts and software. It also has a "Pi" so I can connect to it wirelessly. I haven't set it up yet but I can put a web cam on it to monitor the print and shut it off if it starts making plastic spaghetti.

I have several Creality machines and it seems Creality likes to make proprietary stuff. Their motherboards are all over the place. Motherboard went out on my 10 day old CR10s Pro V2. About $110.00. The company I bought from didn't have a replacement board. They did refund me the purchase price.

I see the Creality stuff as machines for the masses, buy it and start printing and Ratrig, Voron and others as the higher quality, choose your options DIY/open-source machines that you assemble yourself.

 

[Tinstar]

Sorry about the multiple posts, Multi quote is yet above my pay grade.

There are some cool little laundry soap dispenser cups and holders that print out of Petg. The little cups are watertight and go through the washer with the clothes. As soon as there is time I want to print a coffee cup and see if it can handle the heat.

I came up with a couple of new tools that print for my business and have been selling a few along with other printed stuff.

Converting some 3mf and stl files from the burn table into printable stuff is working pretty good.

 

[Dougal]

Nice! Which printer?

What's the hardness? Like polyurethane?

I've been playing with F360 and a small burn table. Pretty cool to make custom parts!

I've been thinking about getting a printer to go with the burn table.

Usually 95 on Shore A hardness. It's gotta be quite stiff so it can be pushed into the nozzle.
Basically hard enough to be squishy, but too hard to be grippy. Kinda like a tyre that's had years in the sun and no use.

Is there any material you can 3d print that will hold up to heat? Like a mock-up puck for welding shit into place

Or a tube clamp for angle gauge would be rad

Most materials are pushed through at 200-230C. Way too low melting point for your use.