Are you using a bed temp of 50c for the entire print? While researching PA it seems like a lot of people recommend a higher bed temp to start, like 60 or 65. But then after the first couple of layers, slowly dropping to more like 50 or 55. Just curious if that is what you are doing?
I chickened out on learning with Nylon. I bought some cheap ABS to make some odds-and-ends parts and get things dialed in before I waste any of my expensive Nylon.
Are these buffer tube threads? I don't know the pitch, but those are pretty fine, right?
Yes.
I'm using a fancy biqu build plate. Polymaker recommends 30-50. Sunlu recommended 50-70.
I printed the sunlu at 55-60, and the polymaker at 50.
I see no reason to vary the bed temp and the expansion/contraction of the plate changing temperatures seems like it could dislodge the part. That seems like something a person without a heated chamber may do to try and prevent the warp.
They were suppressor threads. 3/4-16 for a bushing.
I've printed plenty of threaded bits without issue, but there is a practical limit to how fine they can be based on nozzle size, layer height and how the model is oriented on the bed.
edit:
the #1 takeaway I've learned from the nylon is that it must be dried.
Brand new out of the package goes into the dryer for 12 hours.
depending on ambient humidity you will start to see issues with it being exposed in 4-6 hours.
It LOVES moisture.
So when I printed this the brand new roll of filament went into the dryer the night before, cooked, and I baked my dessicant as well for the drybox.
when you're printing a 14 hour print you need to accommodate that.
other than that, just like every other filament after you figure out your temps/flow rate.
I clicked the button on this thing at 2PM and when I came down at 6am it were done. No issues.
