You can just turn TPMS off.
Forscan is free.
Forscan is free.
I ran those before when we lived on gravel. They don't get damaged by rock, but don't last long either compared to a modern radial. If inflated properly they wear pretty even in my experience. The power king version is discontinued. The last ones like that were the Power King Premium traction. Considering the miles and conditions I drive I really don't want to go bias ply.Idk why but your post makes me think about my farmer friends dad who ran the old power king tires where they had super hard rubber and that TSL looking tread. Super hard compound on them
ThePanzerFuhrer might have some suggestions being in the quarry business.Pushing 10 years since I was in it, so probably been changed plenty as your tire guy mentioned. But in the rock quarries, we ran Bridgestone Duelers. Tread would chunk a little, but flats were pretty minimal. Don’t remember usual miles as I never got to stay in a truck that long.
Cooper ATP II seem to hold up well enough to caliche. The Yokohama x-at I have seem to be holding up well also. A lot of the farmers here run Toyo M/Ts. I wasn’t impressed with a set of duratracs I had. They chunked pretty badly.Who's got any experience with driving 50% limestone gravel for tire wear? Haven't lived on gravel for 14 years, forgot how bad it chewed up tires.
Really liked the Multi mile Wild Trail CXT that I put on my tow rig for wear and snow/ice with occasional mud, but since we moved deep into the country first of the year the tires on this thing, and all our vehicles have been taking a worse beating than I remember from when I did it every day.
My buddy with the tire shop says as soon as he finds a tire that holds up to farmers on gravel for more than 10-15k miles, they either change the tire or discontinue it.
At this point I think I'd pay 30-50% more for tires if someone could tell me it was worth it.
I know of several people who run the duratracs. I second your statement about gravel driving. I will say that if you are 85%+ highway with snow/ice and some dirt/mud the duratracs seems to to well for wear, but once they are at the bottom 1/3 of tread life wet/ice/snow traction suffers badly (like most tires really).Cooper ATP II seem to hold up well enough to caliche. The Yokohama x-at I have seem to be holding up well also. A lot of the farmers here run Toyo M/Ts. I wasn’t impressed with a set of duratracs I had. They chunked pretty badly.
So I've had these for a year on my 05 Cummins. They're good wearing tires and seem to have decent grip. I don't necessarily like them with an empty bed, mostly because of wheelspin on loose dirt, but they did pretty well the last year. I never got stuck while backdragging while plowing, even though they had to dig some to get out. I consider this a win.I got wildpeak AT3W's too, I don't have too many miles on them yet but I'll be pushing around a Boss V this winter so I think I'll figure out pretty quick if they grip or not.
Installed. Ride really good and quiet. No rubbing on 2" lift. Stock wheels.Just ordered some Maxxis Razr AT in 35x11.50x17E for my Ram 1500. I've had great luck with Falken, but I just can't find them in stock. I've got 50k on my current 285/75/17E Wildpeak A/T3. They are at about 25% still, so going to keep them on as long as possible.
Any experience with the Razrs?
I know of several people who run the duratracs. I second your statement about gravel driving. I will say that if you are 85%+ highway with snow/ice and some dirt/mud the duratracs seems to to well for wear, but once they are at the bottom 1/3 of tread life wet/ice/snow traction suffers badly (like most tires really).
Could be part of it. Mine were on a Chevy 2500 with the 6.0Every single person I see liking duratracs like in a cold, heavy snow area. Every person I see who doesn't like them lives in a hot area. I'm guessing they're soft and just wear out fast with lots of 90*+ days on the highway. Guys I knew who tried them on their diesels got horrible wear, like 20k miles max.
Could be part of it. Mine were on a Chevy 2500 with the 6.0
Every single person I see liking duratracs like in a cold, heavy snow area. Every person I see who doesn't like them lives in a hot area. I'm guessing they're soft and just wear out fast with lots of 90*+ days on the highway. Guys I knew who tried them on their diesels got horrible wear, like 20k miles max.
Ha, yeah, that truck was 7-9 mpg doing city, and 11-13 on the highway.I have a buddy put his 2nd set on the same truck, but he drives like 2k miles a year. Because he can't afford the gas
I think it's mostly the hot vs cold climate. Diesels do seem harder on tires for whatever reason, wieght and all the torques maybe?
His has a 6" lift and 35s.... So it can sit like a stock F350 he can hardly pass a gas station while towingHa, yeah, that truck was 7-9 mpg doing city, and 11-13 on the highway.
Weight has to be a large part of it. That, and people driving diesels like sports cars.
Mine was leveled with 33s. I bet going up to 35s did some bad things.His has a 6" lift and 35s.... So it can sit like a stock F350 he can hardly pass a gas station while towing
01 f350 7.3, flatdecked, levelled, and used for a DD, travel trailer tow rig, tool and material hauler for work, and hunting truck sometimes.
Previous tires were M55s in whatever the biggest size was, and now hankook dynapro mt 315/75r16. I really like the hankooks but they have 30,000km on em, and I'd like to buy new while can still sell these.
I was thinking about trying the toyo RTs in hopes of a longer life.
Thoughts, suggestions?
Thread notification reminded me that I needed to come back here to bitch...
Mufucking Treadwright, lost tire #3 this weekend. Mixed freeway/highway driving with a 8' slide in camper, 70psi, start to feel a shake and thought to myself "I wonder if that's just the expansion joints in the concrete, or if something is up with a tire..." It gradually got worse and became very apparent it was not the road. but still drivable enough that I could take my time finding a place to pull over. Looking/feeling all over the tires it was apparent the tread was raised in a section of one, as if the recap was separating from the carcass.
So just to recap (haha)
tire #1, truck empty, tread separated 60 miles down the freeway from first getting the set installed
tire #2, probably no more than 5k mi on the set, tread started separating at the sidewall and lost air. I don't think I hit anything in the road, but it happened rapidly as if I had,
tire #3, newer replacement from failure #2, tread starts separating causing a bubble/shake.
Goddamn I don't want to drop $1200 on a new set of BFG KO2s, but I'm done with this bullshit.
There isnt enough savings for me to even entertain treadwrights, the hassle, or potential collateral damage to my vehicle when one pops or seperates.....
You and every other car flipper is their target market.This. I have no idea how they're in business.
Has anyone run the Goodyear UltraTerrain AT yet? I had planned on getting WildPeak AT3's but at 400 a tire compared to 320 for the goodyear I'm considering going to those. Truck is a 2014 F-350 primarily used for towing my 4Runner or enclosed snowmobile trailer in the winter.
So speaking of which.....You and every other car flipper is their target market.
New chicom MTs that accept studs and allege to have decent (for a MT) snow traction like these do?Because you can get new chicom mt's for the same price.