The 3D printer thread

[Lee]

Creality PETG in a 0.2mm nozzle = insta clog.

Before switching back to an 0.4mm nozzle, I took the extruder apart, cleaned and lubed the gears. Used AeroShell from the gun cleaning supplies. Now the house smells like AeroShell thanks to the extruder warming it up.

 

[Takotruckin]

I found myself making all kinds of small ****. Made a charging plug holder for my buddies hybrid. Random broken clips for the frigidaire oven drawer. I bought a spool of PETG and it does really good on this printer.

Im starting to look at gridfinity. Organizing my fishing **** is always fun. But for fishing, Its primarily out of my backpack and I take my kid on a bike ride to the lake.

I bought a milwaukee packout tray and am trying to get all my trout gear into it and it fits perfect in my backpack.
Milwaukee packout tray organizers

Molle clip mounted fishing rod holder. This is 100% my design

That rod holder is awesome.

 

[budget76]

learning for Bambu AMS2 people. Don't suggest drying while leaving a length of filament in the tubes. I probably read somewhere not to do it. I confirmed its not a great idea twice. It seems like that 6-12" of filament gets super fragile and just breaks off. Laziness didn't pay off

Latest one had a piece break off in the hotend, had to pull the feed tube off, heat up the hotend, and jam a loose length of filament in to push the stuck piece thru. it kept throwing an error until I figured that out

 

[MigGunslinger]

learning for Bambu AMS2 people. Don't suggest drying while leaving a length of filament in the tubes. I probably read somewhere not to do it. I confirmed its not a great idea twice. It seems like that 6-12" of filament gets super fragile and just breaks off. Laziness didn't pay off

Latest one had a piece break off in the hotend, had to pull the feed tube off, heat up the hotend, and jam a loose length of filament in to push the stuck piece thru. it kept throwing an error until I figured that out

Good info.

I don't like how the bambu spools retain the loose end of the filament, the 2 small holes require that the filament do 2 sharp turns and the ABS glass fiber filament I have will break.

I printed up a bunch of these and they work well:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2301841-ams-2-pro-filament-clip-secure-bambu-lab-spool-cli#profileId-2633621

 

[Lee]

Sunlu has their PETG for $10.50/spool if you buy a minimum of 6 spools. Free shipping.

https://store.sunlu.com/products/over-6kg-bundle-sale-petg-3d-printer-filament-1-75mm-1kg-roll?se_activity_id=198270157082

 

[Lee]

Any reason to print something...

New LiFePO4 battery I put on the mower is WAY smaller than the original. Did a Rust-Oleum Rebuild on the battery platform and printed a tray to keep the battery from sliding around.

Even put in a drain hole/channel.

 

[CarterKraft]

Any reason to print something...

New LiFePO4 battery I put on the mower is WAY smaller than the original. Did a Rust-Oleum Rebuild on the battery platform and printed a tray to keep the battery from sliding around.

Even put in a drain hole/channel.

Pretty smart

 

[Sceep]

Any reason to print something...

New LiFePO4 battery I put on the mower is WAY smaller than the original. Did a Rust-Oleum Rebuild on the battery platform and printed a tray to keep the battery from sliding around.

Even put in a drain hole/channel.

Curious why you printed it on end? Flat plate like that I would have expected no/little supports to be needed.

 

[Lee]

Curious why you printed it on end? Flat plate like that I would have expected no/little supports to be needed.

Because those "fingers" wrap around under the rear edge (behind the battery in the photo) and protrude below the opposite edge (in front of the battery in the photo), and the layer lines would have been a failure point. I printed it so the layers were perpendicular to the stress.

 

[engineerjoe]

Because those "fingers" wrap around under the rear edge (behind the battery in the photo) and protrude below the opposite edge (in front of the battery in the photo), and the layer lines would have been a failure point. I printed it so the layers were perpendicular to the stress.

Nice work.
Understanding that the layer lines are the weak point and designing the part to be printed in an orientation that promotes max strength in the direction that it's needed is a big part of functional 3D prints.

I designed these bicycle wheel truing stand extensions to be printed on a 45 deg angle to avoid layer lines in the direction of the primary force:

 

[SMKYTXN]

I've been using my printer quite a bit for prototyping needs on my new build. The latest is a new reverse swing single master cylinder mount.

Bambu P1S, PLA

 

[Bggrnchvy]

Love the printed prototyping, but don't like the oil cooler mounting (if it's hard mounted). Frame flex will make it tear and leak in short order.... Ask me how I know. Id make sure it's very well isolated on rubber mounts or similar.

It was a good point, even with a space frame everything moves a little.

I printed some TPU washers and gave it some isolation.



Also printed a quick bracket to help route the fuel cell vent hoses. Attempted a captured nut for threads.

 

[CarterKraft]

I've been using my printer quite a bit for prototyping needs on my new build. The latest is a new reverse swing single master cylinder mount.

Bambu P1S, PLA

the way you are printing "2d" parts gives me a lot of ideas

 

[bgaidan]

I printed some TPU washers and gave it some isolation.

What PLA are you using with the P1S? Do you have the AMS?

 

[Bggrnchvy]

What PLA are you using with the P1S? Do you have the AMS?

I've got one at home and one at the office. The one at home has an AMS2.

For PLA I've used a lot: Overture, Creality, Elegoo, Polymaker off memory.

 

[Bmxbry9]

Super stoked, this has been happening every 3 or so prints, not sure why it keeps turning into spaghetti. I already stopped it but it knocked it over sometime

 

[Lee]

A skirt or a raft would help hold it in place.

 

[MigGunslinger]

Super stoked, this has been happening every 3 or so prints, not sure why it keeps turning into spaghetti. I already stopped it but it knocked it over sometime

Yes, a skirt should help, they are usually very easy to remove. Also, any fingerprints etc. on the build plate can affect how it sticks. I have been wiping down with alcohol every other print or so and that seems to work but most recommend washing with soap and water and then drying the build plate.

 

[Bmxbry9]

I've been wiping it down about every other print now. How dry do you get your filming? I'm currently at 25% according to the ams2 sensor. I'll try adding the skirt tonight when I can get to a computer

 

[MigGunslinger]

I've been wiping it down about every other print now. How dry do you get your filming? I'm currently at 25% according to the ams2 sensor. I'll try adding the skirt tonight when I can get to a computer

Assuming PLA I would not worry about it too much, it absorbs water but it's not as sensitive.

Waterlogged filament causes issues with the melted plastic foaming or expanding or stringing, your print quality would go to **** before adhesion to the build plate became an issue.

This guy isn't too annoying and seems to have good info:

 

[Firstram]

Yes, a skirt should help, they are usually very easy to remove. Also, any fingerprints etc. on the build plate can affect how it sticks. I have been wiping down with alcohol every other print or so and that seems to work but most recommend washing with soap and water and then drying the build plate.

Windex with ammonia does a great job for a fast clean on the build plate when you don’t want to take the time to really scrub it in the sink.

 

[Bmxbry9]

MigGunslinger I appreciate the help! Going to watch that video now, I can't stand the click bait ***les/thumbnails some of these youtubers use

 

[Sceep]

Need to move a camera to a pole. That'll do.
😁

 

[[486]]

I wish I trusted wifi cameras, instead I've got an 8x zoom one to span the 300' good enough to still see what's going on
zoomed right in on my gate that loses focus every other month or so, and needs to be power cycled to refocus

hell, even just connecting mine to internet would be really cool
but again, I don't trust the box to touch internet

really oughta get my learning in on setting up trustable vlans and what screensharing software's good these days

 

[bgaidan]

I've got one at home and one at the office. The one at home has an AMS2.

For PLA I've used a lot: Overture, Creality, Elegoo, Polymaker off memory.

Derp. I meant what TPU are you suing and are you running it through the AMS? No clue why I put PLA....

 

[Bggrnchvy]

Derp. I meant what TPU are you suing and are you running it through the AMS? No clue why I put PLA....

I had a feeling but didn't want to be that asshole correcting what he thought people meant to say.

This is a Polymaker 95a TPU. Its been no problem, but doesnt work with the AMS2. Have to feed it from a free spool or on the machine without the AMS, which is usually easier for me.

 

[Fishnbeer]

That rod holder is awesome.

Im pretty happy with it. Its the first thing I designed from scratch and printed. Did it all on tinkercad. Having never used any kind of CAD, this one is pretty easy to figure out. But then quickly found its limitations and try to workaround it.

Still needs minor tweaking, I am going to make it 10 mm shorter. Then ditch the molle clip for a loop that you can attach it with the speed sticks and do 100% infill for strength. Maybe do the 2.0 version in black PETG

Thinking of a 3 rod holder version, and clock the slots to orient the reels away from eachother

 

[budget76]

A skirt or a raft would help hold it in place.

agreed. I had a failure recently on a print I didn't design, had to add a brim

 

[Kaptain]

Assuming PLA I would not worry about it too much, it absorbs water but it's not as sensitive.

Waterlogged filament causes issues with the melted plastic foaming or expanding or stringing, your print quality would go to **** before adhesion to the build plate became an issue.

This guy isn't too annoying and seems to have good info:

I have yet to dry any of my filament before use (PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU) - this is going through a Bambu P1S

That said, a majority of my prints were when I had my woodstove going, so the humidity was low.

I've kicked off a handful since I stopped running the stove and still has been fine (42% humidity or so)

TPU was the only one that was a bit stringy but still fully functional for my use.

Drying it seems overrated, dry 12 hours for a 30 minute print, no thanks.,

 

[Lee]

I have yet to dry any of my filament before use (PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU) - this is going through a Bambu P1S

That said, a majority of my prints were when I had my woodstove going, so the humidity was low.

I've kicked off a handful since I stopped running the stove and still has been fine (42% humidity or so)

TPU was the only one that was a bit stringy but still fully functional for my use.

Drying it seems overrated, dry 12 hours for a 30 minute print, no thanks.,

Arkansas humidity even with the A/C running, there's no avoiding drying PETG if you want functional finished prints. I learned the hard way how hygroscopic PETG is.

I've got a Sunlu and a Cerality dryer, and keep opened spools in a sealed cereal box with a couple desiccant packs in it.