Blue Jeep build

[Kowboy]

They gotta buggy section on here??

 

[gt1guy]

They gotta buggy section on here??

Gen4x4 has the buggy builds

 

[gt1guy]

Now where were we? Fenders I think. Been a bit of jumping around lately.

Got the dvr side tube fender bent up and installed w/tube connectors. Bent up the pass side, got it held in place with some scrap metal................and realized I didn't have anymore tube connectors, so had to order more.

On or about that same time, my new radiator arrived. Custom C&R 27"wide x 22"tall, 2- Spal 12" brushless fans, shroud, yada, yada. So I changed gears and mounted it while waiting for the fender parts.

It's going to be at a 33* angle so I had them do the connections so they'd be horizontal when mounted.

Top mount. Inside of the mount is 1/4" think rubber. It was called a medium/hard compound.

Made the bottom mount for it and tacked it in place, only to find out I need it removable to get the radiator in and out..

So it became removable

It got the same 1/4" rubber treatment.

Really glad I had the radiator folks do the connections at the 33* angle, or the lower hose would be pointing at the ground and the stub for the AN fitting would be below the frame.


Can't even see it in this pic.

It's hiding from damage.

Have to close off the top of this area above everything, between the engine cage and the shock brace, and tie it in with the rest of the grill shroud.......that still needs to be made.

So that's radiator mounted, ac condenser mounted, trans cooler mounted, engine oil cooler mounted. Everything is rubber mounted in some form or fashion so they can grow and contract as they please.

Steering cooler mounted with it's own little clampy things. Not rubber mounted, isn't meant to be.

Got the new tube connectors in and finished the passenger side.. Got the sheet metal parts of the fenders rough cut out and started fitting them.

Next I think it's going to be the cage tie-ins and sliders. The fenders will have to tie into the sliders, cause there's nothing else left for them to tie into.

 

[gt1guy]

Random question:

I have a hydroboost, not sure of the original application. It has the 3.4" bolt spacing for the master and the short output pushrod. The master that came with it from Vanco had the ports on the outboard side. I now need them on the inboard side. Found a master for a Ford that fit my needs, only thing RockAuto didn't list was whether it had the deep or shallow plunger in it. As with all things on this build, it had the deep, I needed the shallow.


So, does anyone know where I can purchase just the output pushrod for a hydroboost?

Picture of what I have.........the short one. The long one would be around a half inch longer I believe.

This one sits just a bit shallower than the flange face of the master.







edit:

Never mind, I'm just going to take a few measurements and make a new pushrod. I thought it had machining on it, it does not.

 

[JKommuter]

Followed your link from JKO. Throwing in my $20 membership hoping to see you finish this thing. To be honest since Kowboy finished polishing the turd your thread was the only one left that is interesting.

 

[gt1guy]

Followed your link from JKO. Throwing in my $20 membership hoping to see you finish this thing. To be honest since Kowboy finished polishing the turd your thread was the only one left that is interesting.

Thank you Sir. Glad to have you here.

Nobody want this thing done more than me. The list to finish it really isn't that long anymore. There's three big items I can think of. One being the rear fenders. Getting the rear doors to clear anything is going to be fun. The other two are the hood and grill................all I need to do for those is teach myself how to do composites first.


I did get the materials for doing the sliders. The main part will be 2"DOM with 6061 solid alum stuffed inside.

Right now I'm skinning the front fenders. That started out as a big ol fail. I'm putting a louver panel in the top of each side. First attempt I did way too many little spot welds and it warped. So the next try I did just a few and it came out perfect. That didn't stop me from spending a couple hours fucking with the first one trying to get it straight.................it couldn't be saved.

 

[Will Scarlet]

A persons masterpiece always takes more time then they want. Even though yours is taking longer then you want, the end product will be worth the wait.

 

[gt1guy]

A persons masterpiece always takes more time then they want. Even though yours is taking longer then you want, the end product will be worth the wait.

I hope to God you're right.

 

[gt1guy]

Paint stripper from Lowes sucks. Literally used the entire quart to clean off 7 or so spots on what's left of the factory frame. That's just the drivers side. I think I mostly did it all with a wire brush..............mostly.

Started a thread in newb and was shown where to get the good stuff. Have it on order. The reviews said it will get you sick, so I have high hopes for it.

Didn't take any pics today, couldn't move my arms by the time I was done.

 

[Cod]

Too much of this??

 

[gt1guy]

Too much of this??

Yes, never jerk off with paint stripper. Gets a little warm.

 

[gt1guy]

Got the fender skinning done on the tops of the fenders.

No doubt they're not really going to do much as far as fenders go, but they do make it out to the middle of the tire at one........very small....point.


Now to finish the rear portion of the fenders, I need the slider there, cause that's what it's mounting to. The rear slider mount will go on the fish plate for the new rear frame section and the next slider mount forward will go on the doubler plate for the B-pillar cage tie-ins. I didn't have any of that shit done yet so, mounting the back of a stupid fender instantly became a lot of work. It all needs to be done so no big deal.


First up, clean off the old paint on the frame where shit is gonna go. Complete nightmare with the paint stripper I got from Lowes. I do have a better stripper now for the pass side when I get there.

Clean areas for 3 slider mounts, 1 cage tie-in, 1 cage tie-in/slider mount combo, and a fish plate/slider mount combo

Rear fish plate stuck on. Had to cut part of the body mount away to fish Mr. fish plate behind it.

Slider will mount on the fish plate down by the 5 o'clock position of the rosette weld.

Doubler for the B-pillar tie-ins. Cut a slot in the center of it right where the center tab will be and burned it in. Slider mount will be below the forward B-pillar tie-in.

Two of the slider and the A-pillar tie-in doublers. There's another slider doubler to the rear of the pic.

My plan was to use a single tab in the middle of the two B's and it actually worked out. Made the tab out of 1/2", and it fit right between both bushings.

Outer tabs will be 1/4", same as every other tie-in. I'll have to somehow tie in the forward tab with the body mount

 

[Kowboy]

Sure good to see more pics. Been a while.

Looks like a fella coulda just hit the frame with a small grinder and made quick work of the paint removal. Obviously, I gotta be missin' somethin' here tho or I'm sure you woulda done that.

 

[Cod]

Sure good to see more pics. Been a while.

Looks like a fella coulda just hit the frame with a small grinder and made quick work of the paint removal. Obviously, I gotta be missin' somethin' here tho or I'm sure you woulda done that.

He's wanting to keep that stock look.

 

[gt1guy]

Sure good to see more pics. Been a while.

Looks like a fella coulda just hit the frame with a small grinder and made quick work of the paint removal. Obviously, I gotta be missin' somethin' here tho or I'm sure you woulda done that.

The bottom half of the frame, yes, the top part, not really. Around the cage tie-ins and the body mounts no way. Plus, I figured that the paint stripper would work like the paint stripper I remembered from years ago when I used it last. Brush it on, wait a few minutes, and wipe it off, leaving nice shinny metal. Should be way faster than a wire wheel. Nope, it didn't work like that at all. In fact, the shit I used sucked. Brush it on, wait, scrape/wire brush, brush more on, wait, scrape, cuss, brush more on, wait, scrape, wire brush, cuss.

I'm going to make a test run of the new stripper in a while to see how it works. It "should" be the old type of stripper. Can says it will make retarded babies in Cali, so I have high hopes for it. Even says "Can not be made non poisonous".

He's wanting to keep that stock look.

Finally, someone who understands.




Brown Santa was supposed to drop off the rest of the metal for the sliders yesterday and never showed up. Tracking says "out for delivery" again today. All I had was .120" wall tube and I decided to go with .188" wall. So the top bar will be 1.75" x .188" and the stand off/mounts will be 2" x .188".

I have the cage tie-ins to keep me busy for now and if Brown Santa still doesn't show up, I'll just move to the pass side and start all over again.

 

[christensent]

What hood scoop is that and is it any good/recommended? I need to add a functional scoop to keep my supercharger cooler. There is a lot of complete trash on the market in that area so curious if you have a suggestion.

 

[gt1guy]

What hood scoop is that and is it any good/recommended? I need to add a functional scoop to keep my supercharger cooler. There is a lot of complete trash on the market in that area so curious if you have a suggestion.

It is from Unlimited Products (up22.com). It is #SC-117. I got it because it was simply the shortest I could find, and it was cheap ($80). It isn't made for the Jeep hood, but because both the scoop and the hood are pretty close to being flat, the fit isn't too bad. It is very thin. I doubt it would put up much of a fight against a tree branch.

I'm going to try and make a composite version of my hood and that scoop was just to save time over sculpting my own scoop out of foam.

 

[gt1guy]

Sliders figured out. Now I have a place for the fenders to land.

Cage tie-in/body mount/slider mount/gusset combo thingy. It's kind of a busy area

A-pillar tie-in was boring by comparison.

 

[Kowboy]

Likin' the sliders sir.

Looks like a fella's gonna have to use 'em for a step to get into that monster. Might wanna consider some sorta traction aid on the top rail for your boots to grip so you don't bust your ass. I tried grip tape on my truck sliders but that sucks. Line-X didn't add much grip neither. Sucks when wet/muddy/icy. My next try was gonna be weldin' a bit of expended metal wrapped around the tube. Never got 'round to it tho.

 

[thedirtman]

I would just delete the front fenders. Look kinda dumb and are really not going to do anything. Save the weight. Mine don't do a whole lot either except as use as a slider when I am on those really off camber spots. I have better tire coverage and the tires throw mud into the cab like nobody's business.

 

[gt1guy]

Likin' the sliders sir.

Looks like a fella's gonna have to use 'em for a step to get into that monster. Might wanna consider some sorta traction aid on the top rail for your boots to grip so you don't bust your ass. I tried grip tape on my truck sliders but that sucks. Line-X didn't add much grip neither. Sucks when wet/muddy/icy. My next try was gonna be weldin' a bit of expended metal wrapped around the tube. Never got 'round to it tho.

The top rail for a step? Shit, I have short legs, I specifically set everything where it is so I could use the lower bar as a step. I do have a couple different sizes of expanded metal I could use to make a flat spot to step on but, it's the flat type of expanded metal, so I think it still could be slippery. I've seen folks do dimple dies and then cut the raised parts with a cut-off wheel into teeth. I'll figure something out. The lower door bar actually raises where you need to get a foot in, so while it's not really any taller than it was before, it's more of a reach.

I would just delete the front fenders. Look kinda dumb and are really not going to do anything. Save the weight. Mine don't do a whole lot either except as use as a slider when I am on those really off camber spots. I have better tire coverage and the tires throw mud into the cab like nobody's business.

Ya, I realize the fenders aren't going to do anything. It's really a, I want to have something there thing. Getting it inspected is in the back of my mind too.
I did make the fronts removable and the rears will be also.

 

[snout]

The top rail for a step? Shit, I have short legs, I specifically set everything where it is so I could use the lower bar as a step. I do have a couple different sizes of expanded metal I could use to make a flat spot to step on but, it's the flat type of expanded metal, so I think it still could be slippery. I've seen folks do dimple dies and then cut the raised parts with a cut-off wheel into teeth. I'll figure something out. The lower door bar actually raises where you need to get a foot in, so while it's not really any taller than it was before, it's more of a reach.

I have a bum leg and needed a removable step for my Jeep. I've seen similar steps online, but they are ~$100 which is just dumb.
I built this out of what I had laying around. I'll post a write up and material list once I'm back home and can take photos.

U bolts w/ fasteners: $10-15
48" Tube: $20

 

[gt1guy]

I have a bum leg and needed a removable step for my Jeep. I've seen similar steps online, but they are ~$100 which is just dumb.
I built this out of what I had laying around. I'll post a write up and material list once I'm back home and can take photos.

U bolts w/ fasteners: $10-15
48" Tube: $20

So it's removable and can be thrown under the seat? I like that.

 

[USMC Gunny]

Here's your hood scoop

 

[gt1guy]

That probably looks better than what I'll end up with. My whole hood will be show car smooth.................just like that scoop.

Thanks for that....buddy

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I would just delete the front fenders. Look kinda dumb and are really not going to do anything. Save the weight. Mine don't do a whole lot either except as use as a slider when I am on those really off camber spots. I have better tire coverage and the tires throw mud into the cab like nobody's business.

I agree. They seem completely useless and definitely look odd.

 

[thedirtman]

And Dirtman telling everybody "Its going to cost 10K minimum to run 37's".

He should come in under since he got a screaming deal on the tires. I hope they don't dry rot before it hits the dirt..

 

[Kowboy]

Have I mentioned the warranty on the engine lately?

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

You guys are bad!

 

[gt1guy]

I guess I forgot to mark my calendar that this was "kick Kevin in the balls just cause" week. You guys are evil, not wrong, just evil.