What's new

Blue Jeep build

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
Alright, I'm trying to move my build thread over here from JKO.

Probably a 100% chance this will go terribly wrong for a while:flipoff2:


Edit:
Weeeeeell, it seems there are a ton of pics missing in the thread on JKO. I'm up to page 16 over there and all the pics are gone. I know they were there before the VS new update.


Edit again:
It seems all the pics are gone up to page 18. Which the first post with pictures is dated May 11 2018..............almost exactly two years to the day of the new "update".
I am now fully wrapped in tinfoil..............no mask cause ain't skeered of virus.


Again with the edit:

Half way done with the transfer. Need to take a shit.
 
Last edited:

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
I had saved a pdf of the build thread, but no idea of how to get it to post "opened" and not as a file.


Build thread 1.pdf
 

Attachments

  • Build thread 1.pdf
    736.9 KB · Views: 83
Last edited:

SLOWPOKE693

🖕TROUBLES🖕
race
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
299
Messages
5,711
Loc
Somewhere in Texas
VS strikes again..... Suprise, suprise. NOT!

Glad to see you posting the build here, it was just wasting away over at JKO. Waaaay to much building and not nearly enough bolt on to keep that crowds attention. :laughing:
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
Ya, it almost seemed like it was just me and Exwrench talking to each other at times.:lmao:
 

Will Scarlet

The universe is vast...
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
766
Messages
1,252
I'll be honest, I've been following your thread over their for years. I just never had anything to add to it really.
 

ExWrench

Random Dude
CAL4
BRC
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
29
Messages
2,331
Loc
East Bay, CA
Edit again:
It seems all the pics are gone up to page 18. Which the first post with pictures is dated May 11 2018..............almost exactly two years to the day of the new "update".

What the FUCK! :mad3:

It's like they're trying to see how much bullshit the livestock will endure.

I canceled my JKO & PBB renewals today, and this reinforces my resolve.


Hang on - I'mma' test somethin':


<TEST WORKED - Cutting out gt1guy's content to de-clutter thread.>


OK - YES! :bounce2: DOOD! Your PDF has selectable text and the photo links work.

I don't know of an easy / quick way, but at least there's a way.
 
Last edited:

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
What the FUCK! :mad3:

It's like they're trying to see how much bullshit the livestock will endure.

I canceled my JKO & PBB renewals today, and this reinforces my resolve.


Hang on - I'mma' test somethin':



OK - YES! :bounce2: DOOD! Your PDF has selectable text and the photo links work.

I don't know of an easy / quick way, but at least there's a way.



You said you were stupid, what the fuck:flipoff2:You lied.:lmao:

I'll try to figure out what this selectable text is you speak of and see if I can do anything. I know for a fact I'm stupid when it comes to this shit.

I have 8 PDF files that are 40+ pages each, this shouldn't take any time at all.:rolleyes:
 

ExWrench

Random Dude
CAL4
BRC
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
29
Messages
2,331
Loc
East Bay, CA
You said you were stupid, what the fuck:flipoff2:You lied.:lmao:

I'll try to figure out what this selectable text is you speak of and see if I can do anything. I know for a fact I'm stupid when it comes to this shit.

I have 8 PDF files that are 40+ pages each, this shouldn't take any time at all.:rolleyes:
Promise I wasn't sandbagging you, I was totally surprised when that worked :laughing:
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
​​

I opened your PDF, copied a bunch of text with the photo links, and pasted here.

I wouldn't try it on a phone, but seems doable on a magic internet light-show box.

I hope you figure out a way to make this easy (before I try to copy my thread :flipoff2:)
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
gt1guy 07-20-2017 02:51 PM

Blue jeep build

I guess it’s time to start a build thread, since I went and tore the Jeep apart. I’ve been collecting parts for this build for the past few years, so I probably have
at least 80% of what I need to complete it. The big ticket items I have and should keep me busy for a while. The rest is mostly stuff I need to get the build rolling along to figure out. Drive shaft lengths, axle lengths, brake lines, fuel lines, exhaust, etc.
I’ve also never named a vehicle, hell, my old dogs name was Dog, so we’ll just call it the blue jeep build.

Anyway, the plan, here’s what I want to do. Starting with a 2010 JKU Sport with 26k on the clock.

LS conversion with a LS3/525 – , RPM Extreme kit
6l90 w/2800 stall converter, Winters shifter (hits all 7 detents in the trans), Twist Machine paddle shifter
Hero 3 speed transfer case 2.78/4.33 , VSS in tail shaft housing
Rear axle-72.875” wms/wms, JRat 3rd , RuffStuff housing, 40spline ARB, D70 5.13 gears, Solid 40 spline spindles and hubs, 13”Wilwood rotors/ Aero6 calipers,
coilover/bypass mts.
Front axle- 73.25”wms/wms. JRat 3rd , RuffStuff housing, 40spline ARB, D70 5.13 gears, Crane C’s and knuckles, Solid 40spline spindles and hubs, 14”
Wilwood rotors/Aero6 calipers, coilover/bypass mts
Trail Ready HD17RC wheels and 45x14.50TSL/SXII’s
Hydroboost w/1 5/16th master cylinder
Howe Full hydro steering
32gal Fuel Safe cell sunk down into floor behind axle
Full cage, through dash, incorporating the seat mounts and upper mounts for the CO/bypass F&R
PRP- Podium Elite seats, 42” matching Bench seat, Schroth Harnesses
F&R double triangulated 4-links (rear is easy, front is going to take some work……………a lot of work), minimum 6” up travel (I want more if I can move enough
stuff around), ~3.5” lift
Other misc stuff to include:
Line lock for the parking brake.
No wheel speed sensors, will use a Dakota Digital signal conditioner off the rear output VSS of the transfer case to feed the speedo signal.
ABS shit removed. I believe the brain box has to stay but the pump and all the extra lines can go.
EVAP shit removed.
Cruise control will be done through a remote mounted Rostra switch, due to the clock spring issue with full hydro steering.



I ended up tearing the Jeep apart because of how far I had to dig trying to figure out the front suspension. That doesn’t even make sense does it? Well, it’s
complicated.
All the extra length of the LS compared to the 3.8 is to the front. Bellhousings are basically in the same spot. I already knew I was going to have to stretch the
front a few inches to get the upper links around the balancer, then the radiator gets in the way. Can’t stretch it a few more inches to get out in front of the
radiator because the links will still hit the radiator and I want to minimize the amount of stretching on a 4dr. Only other thing that can technically move is the
balancer, but the firewall is in the way. Firewall’s move real easy when you cut them though. I need to see the firewall without the stock engine in the way. Also,
I’m not quite ready to rip out the entire HVAC unit from the Jeep, so I need to see what’s going on on the inside between the HVAC unit and the firewall. So out
came the engine and the dash, so I could look around. This also ties into the roll cage because I need to modify the subframe for the dash for the A-pillar bars.
Starting to pull dash
DSC06288.jpg

What is this white gizmo that runs directly to a little box on the key switch? Doesn't say anything on it. Does it have to stay?
DSC06289.jpg

Marking for the A-pillar tube (2"x .120"). Should leave the vent ducts untouched.
DSC06297.jpg

DSC06299.jpg

This give an idea of where the A-pillar is going. The leg going up to the windshield will be straight. No funky bends where you don't want them.
DSC06301.jpg

Dash out and cut for the A-pillar bar.
DSC06478.jpg

Here's one of many "awe fuck" moments. If I cut out what I marked, I'll also lose the firewall mount part too. Plan is to add a small bracket to the cage bar that
bolts to the dash subframe. Not the end of the world, but I never noticed it till after the other side was cut. Other side doesn't have this issue.
DSC06477.jpg

Everything out of the way on the inside.
DSC06487.jpg





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ChuckTheRipper 07-20-2017 03:42 PM
About time you start a thread. That's one crazy parts list. I'm mighty jelly. Your pictures aren't showing up, for me at least.



----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



gt1guy 07-20-2017 03:48 PM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4273930)
About time you start a thread. That's one crazy parts list. I'm mighty jelly. Your pictures aren't showing up, for me at least.




Really? No pics. I just started using postimage.org for the hosting cause photobucket fucked everyone.
Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
Does this pic work?
DSC06367.jpg



I'll wait to post anything else until I get this picture thing figured out.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

christensent 07-20-2017 06:57 PM
Pics work for me... might be an issue of being on a phone, I can't see most pictures posted on this forum on my phone


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ChuckTheRipper 07-20-2017 10:23 PM
Well fuck. I've never had a problem seeing pictures through Tapatalk.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



gt1guy 07-20-2017 11:20 PM



Originally Posted by christensent (Post 4273994)
Pics work for me... might be an issue of being on a phone, I can't see most pictures posted on this forum on my phone



Ok, cool. I'll keep rolling then.



Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4274081)
Well fuck. I've never had a problem seeing pictures through Tapatalk.

Can you see the pic in post #4? That one I used the "Thumbnail for forums" address. All the others I used the "Hotlink for forums" address.
I have no clue what the difference is. I'm a computer tard.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




gt1guy 07-21-2017 01:05 AM


Here's where all the interference problems come from for moving the firewall back anything more than a inch and wanting to keep the HVAC unit intact.
DSC06476.jpg

And this is actually where the problem is circled in red. This is what follows the angled section of the firewall, from the passenger foot well to the sunk in (deep
part) in the center of the fire wall, when the ac lines and heater hoses enter.
At first I thought I could just hit it with a heat gun and slowly work it in. But I soon realized I would absolutely fuck that up and destroy the whole thing. It
needs to move ~3" or so. No way that's happening with heat.
DSC06476.jpg

Better shot that shows the angle it runs at.



DSC06476.jpg

So I stripped of all the duct work and the big valve thing that switches from fresh air to re-circulation so I could reinstall it and actually see/feel what I'm
dealing with as far as room.
No way to get good pics of what it looked like, but there is about 1.5" of room at the tightest spot. Still need more room.
So next up was the possibility of moving the entire dash back. That turns out to be really easy. I can move the bottom mounts for dash on the trans tunnel
back 2” and the top dash mounts back an inch or so to get the room I need down by the blower/duct for the HVAC unit. Will have to make new foam seals
between the ac lines/heater hoses at the firewall and also the seal between the fresh air intake to the blower. But I'm getting a solid 3.5" or more of clearance.
It was still hard to get pics but I just stuck the camera in a fired away.
http://<a href="https://postimage.cc...z/DSC06500.jpg[/IMG]
DSC06503.jpg

DSC06499.jpg

Here's the mount at the trans tunnel. Just have to move the bracket.
DSC06513.jpg

Here's the top mount at the wind shield. There are two of these. I'll just extend the tabs holding the studs. I really don't think there will be much of a gap
between the dash cover and the weather stripping. If there is one, a strip of closed cell foam should fill it.
DSC06505.jpg

This is how the ac lines and heater hoses end up. If I really want to get fancy, I could move that section of the fire wall back to make it stock looking again.
DSC06495.jpg
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
So, the dash comes back out again. Still need to cut the passenger side of the subframe for the cage A-pillar. I now have a good feeling about the firewall mods
though.
How stupid would I be if I don't replace the heater core while everything is apart? Jeep only has 28k on it.
gt1guy 07-21-2017 02:49 AM
So now knowing I can get the HVAC shit out of the way. it's time to slap a real engine in and start the process again of seeing what I'm dealing with.
So the gutless piece of shit with only 28k on the clock came out. If the engine in my lawn mower ever dies, the 3.8 might get a new home.
DSC06356.jpg

Even before I tacked the engine mounts in, I could tell they weren't going to work with the suspension I want to do. This pic is with the stock D30 and UCA. The
new axle, with a truss and the triangulated upper link mount on top of that is much taller. 10" from tube C/L to center of link joint to be exact.


DSC06523.jpg

The CTS-V front drive isn't going to work either. More on that later.
With the RPM mounts just tacked in, I tossed the engine/trans in it. Didn’t even bother to install the torque converter, because it’s all coming back out again.
This is just information gathering work. Sure looks good though.
DSC06530.jpg

After setting the engine down in the mounts I shimmed up the back of the trans until it was right up to the tunnel. Not touching it, but damn close. This was for
two reasons. One was checking for pulling off a flat belly. The other was that raising the back on the trans actually pushes the heads farther away from the
firewall. Flip side is it lowers the harmonic balancer a bit. Not much, but that's the direction it goes.
Top of the straight edge is touching the bottom of both frame rails. That's at least 6" between the top of the straightedge and where the trans mount bolts up.
DSC06558.jpg

Front side of the trans pan. Inch or so of clearance.
DSC06557.jpg

Engine to firewall.
DSC06532.jpg

DSC06531.jpg

DSC06535.jpg

DSC06534.jpg

Top of the bellhousing will get close when the engine is moved back.
DSC06537.jpg

So it looks like I have plenty of room to move the drivetrain back 4" or so without getting into the HVAC crap. Another thing that will help is that this was done
with mounts that shift the engine/trans over to the passenger side a inch and a quarter, just like stock. I won't have a steering box or brake booster in the way,
so I"ll center it with the new engine mounts. I will gain room by shifting everything due to the shape of the firewall.




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Dkjeep 07-21-2017 05:24 AM

Ho lee shit.... lots of work ahead
You aren't worried about room in the cab moving the firewall and dash back 3" ?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



gt1guy 07-21-2017 02:45 PM

Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4274130)
Ho lee shit.... lots of work ahead
You aren't worried about room in the cab moving the firewall and dash back 3" ?



I've given it a lot of thought and I can't see it creating any real problems. It's really just angling it, more than it's moving straight back.
Where I'm thinking of "adjusting" the firewall won't really effect where your feet go. It will all be above that. If I have to raise where the trans tunnel meets the
firewall, that's all behind the center of the dash.
The bottom center of the dash get the biggest move and that's directly over the trans tunnel. If I was keeping the stock center console, I'm pretty sure there'd
be interference. I already know I can't reuse the stock console. The Hero3 runs triple sticks and the Winters shifter takes up quite a bit of room. So I already
knew I'm going to have to do something different for a console.
Where the steering column meets the firewall, the bearing that bolts to the firewall rides on what looks like a nylon (it's probably plastic) sleeve. It seems to
have quite a bit of fore and aft movement. I really don't think the steering wheel will end up moving much. It also tilts, so there's that.
Only thing I'm wondering about is the brake peddle. But that can be cut and welded in any position I want. I have short legs, so if the brake peddle gets a little
closer, I welcome it.:D
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

I'll put the column back in for a test fit with the dash where I want it. Probably should stick the stock seat in too. Just to be sure.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Keith B. 07-21-2017 03:14 PM

This sounds awesome. Cant wait to see it progress.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CrazyLarry 07-21-2017 05:55 PM

Intense build man good for you have fun with it


gt1guy 07-23-2017 02:26 PM
I don't even know how long I stood there and starred at the marked up firewall, wondering if I really wanted to go down this road, or if I was going to screw it
up.
DSC06664.jpg

And then this happened.
DSC06669.jpg

DSC06671.jpg




DSC06672.jpg

After deciding that the area at the top of the trans tunnel was going to give me grief when the engine slid back, I cut out a slot a couple inches up and back,
removing the radius where it meets the firewall. That turned out to be a smart move.
DSC06680.jpg

DSC06683.jpg

DSC06684.jpg
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
Promise I wasn't sandbagging you, I was totally surprised when that worked :laughing:
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
​​

I opened your PDF, copied a bunch of text with the photo links, and pasted here.

I wouldn't try it on a phone, but seems doable on a magic internet light-show box.

I hope you figure out a way to make this easy (before I try to copy my thread :flipoff2:)

I was just fucking with ya.


I'm just copying and pasting everything. It's not going very fast at all. I'm 1/3 of the way through the first of 8 files. Just looking at where the build is in what I've posted...................I have a long ways to go.............................Hell, I haven't even blown off the whole factory dash idea yet.:laughing:

I'm also going to have to relive the first attempt at the firewall................................not looking forward to that very much. It's like a trip down memory lane right now.


I did find out that there is some kind of limit on how big a post can be. I pasted a bunch of shit and when I hit post, it said there was a 10000 (unit?) limit and my post was 28598 (whatevers).
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
gt1guy 07-23-2017 03:12 PM
Next up was dealing with the engine mounts. I want to get the drivetrain centered in the chassis. There is more room behind the firewall on the drivers side
than the passenger side, plus there isn't going to be a steering box or other interference in the engine compartment.
My measurements said the engine was shifted to passenger 1.25" when I installed it the way it should be.
Untouched mounts.
DSC06686.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

Solution....remove 5/8ths from the drivers side and add 5/8ths to the passenger side engine mounts. (ya, I know)
DSC06693.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06697.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06700.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06704.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06702.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06705.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

I know what you're thinking and you're right. That right there is a big fuck up. Why I cut that 1.25" number in half, I have no idea. But I did and I never caught
it until after I had the engine back in. Only saving grace is that they're still only temporary.
You'll also notice that the top ears are sitting up off the frame. That's because the frame is falling away from where the new location is. Mounts were moved
back 4". They are sitting at the same height as they were in the original location. The frame is also getting wider at that point, so there was a big gap at the
back of the mounts.


gt1guy 07-23-2017 03:26 PM



New engine location.
DSC06710.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06712.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06717.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06718.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06719.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06714.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06715.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

DSC06709.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Dkjeep 07-23-2017 03:42 PM

I don't even have words for how far you have dove off into this one. Can you access the rear spark plug on the passenger side with it tucked that far back in
there?
Also don't get the clearances too tight around any portion of the engine or trans. It moves around quite a bit with the idle that it has.
Did you touch on why you had to abandon the accessory drive and whos drive is that?


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


gt1guy 07-23-2017 11:43 PM



Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4274978)
I don't even have words for how far you have dove off into this one. Can you access the rear spark plug on the passenger side with it tucked that far
back in there?
Also don't get the clearances too tight around any portion of the engine or trans. It moves around quite a bit with the idle that it has.
Did you touch on why you had to abandon the accessory drive and whos drive is that?



I can't see there being a problem with access to the plug. The room I'll need to make for headers should cover the plug access pretty well. Also, I want to make
part of the new firewall panels removable for access to the upper bellhousing bolts. There would be no way to get to them otherwise. So, worst case on the
plugs, I could also have an access panel to get at them from the inside.


I tried to install the Sanderson headers, passenger side came closer to fitting than the drivers side. But, to run them, it will take a lot more cutting into the
footwell than I want to do. I think I'll sell the Sandersons and pick up something that has the collector farther forward/lower and also the rear primary going
forward. I have a feeling I'll find something made for a Vette that fits the bill. I think they basically have the same situation of engine/firewall.


Something like this. Hooker Blackheart shorty for a C6
https://rspimages.holley.com/70301303rhkr.jpg?width=583


I hear ya on the clearances. There is still a bunch of fine tuning I need to do on what was cut. I cut the bare minimum just to stuff it in there. I know I need to
remove more of the trans tunnel, there's a spot just behind where I cut it that is making contact with the trans.
As far as the accessory drive goes ( I can already feel the headache returning). The low mount AC and the alternator were going to be completely in the way of
the upper links. The RPM engine mounts are in the way too. The AC and Alt are in the way because the upper links converge in the center and run close to the
balancer. The engine mounts are in the way because of the height of both the axle side and chassis side mounts for the uppers, combined with trying to pull
this off at 3.5" of lift. This is in no way a knock on the RPM mounts. As you know, they're a well made piece that fit perfect when you put them where they're
supposed to go.

The Vette offset drastically reduces your choices and options for where things get mounted.
I ended up going with the Goat Built Alt/Ps bracket. They had the narrowest setup that kept the bottom of the engine clear. They also happen to build the Ibex
buggy chassis's so you could say it was designed for the double triangulated 4-link. Had to switch to the F-Body spacing though, so new water pump and
balancer.

The AC comp bracket is for a LS1 from ICT billet. High and tight, that's why I got it. Runs the 7176 compressor. One of the few brackets for the F-Body offset I
found.

So ya, I've replaced every single piece from the CTS-V drive. I just hope I can use it when the time comes to LS my old Camaro.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Dkjeep 07-24-2017 07:04 AM

As you know I went to the 7176 for clearance issues on my ctsv drive and it makes nice cold air so no worries there.
On the other hand this appears to be over your head, you should take it to the nearest dealership to be completed, lol. :grin2:


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



gt1guy 07-24-2017 12:02 PM


Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4275225)
As you know I went to the 7176 for clearance issues on my ctsv drive and it makes nice cold air so no worries there.
On the other hand this appears to be over your head, you should take it to the nearest dealership to be completed, lol. :grin2:


Jon will probably say that too when he sees what I did to his engine mounts.
Have you driven yours yet?



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Dkjeep 07-24-2017 12:19 PM


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4275345)
Jon will probably say that too when he sees what I did to his engine mounts.
Have you driven yours yet?


No, lol. I'm doing the rear end right now. I'm painting the rear axle as I had to disconnect everything anyways to add new control arms, track bar, and brakes.
(3 projects that weren't on the original punch list). I figured hell if its out anyways I might as well yank it out in the yard and freshen it up with some new paint.
I needed to replace the leaky pinion seal anyways.
Other than that, the front end is DONE. I just have to get the rear axle back in and final install the new tire carrier. I'm in no hurry with this heat. I get out
there and at least do one thing every day on it. Some days its not much but at least I'm going forward at all times.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



DOOKEY 07-24-2017 01:10 PM
In for the updates.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



gt1guy 07-25-2017 03:38 AM

-
Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4275346)
No, lol. I'm doing the rear end right now. I'm painting the rear axle as I had to disconnect everything anyways to add new control arms, track bar, and
brakes. (3 projects that weren't on the original punch list). I figured hell if its out anyways I might as well yank it out in the yard and freshen it up with
some new paint. I needed to replace the leaky pinion seal anyways.
Other than that, the front end is DONE. I just have to get the rear axle back in and final install the new tire carrier. I'm in no hurry with this heat. I get
out there and at least do one thing every day on it. Some days its not much but at least I'm going forward at all times.



Better to do it all now, than not and wish you had.
It's been hot here too. Best piece of equipment I have in the shop is a 48" barrel fan. I fucking love that thing.


gt1guy 07-25-2017 04:04 AM
With the engine now sitting 4" back, I tossed the dash back in to evaluate the damage. To my surprise, it damn near went back to the stock location before it
started to make contact. Obviously can't run it that way, so the dash went back to it's new home location. Took a bunch of measurements so I'd have a good
idea of where everything is when working with the dash out. I know the dash will still be going in and out another million times before this part is completed.
DSC06741.jpg

DSC06745.jpg

DSC06746.jpg

DSC06748.jpg

DSC06756.jpg

DSC06757.jpg

gt1guy 07-25-2017 04:13 AM
The drain for the AC is the tightest spot there is.
DSC06763.jpg

gt1guy 07-25-2017 04:32 AM
Time to see if all this work was worth it. Installed the MK1/mod 0 calibrated PVC links.
DSC06785.jpg

This is actually very close to where the links will be. Notice they're touching the engine mounts. This is why I've said I can't use those mounts.
DSC06793.jpg

gt1guy 07-25-2017 04:47 AM
Went ahead and finished cutting the firewall now that the engine it where it's going to be.
DSC06826.jpg
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
DSC06829.jpg


DSC06835.jpg

DSC06836.jpg

DSC06823.jpg

DSC06830.jpg

DSC06837.jpg

DSC06821.jpg






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Treader 07-25-2017 06:30 AM
On the dash, why not just create a whole new unit? Maybe a little too utilitarian, but it would get the job done.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

B_rad 07-25-2017 08:51 AM
Amazing build, keep the pics and info coming!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

tapcola 07-25-2017 09:25 AM
I get it , but at this point would it be easier to biuld a buggy ?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DOOKEY 07-25-2017 09:34 AM

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4275769)
I get it , but at this point would it be easier to biuld a buggy ?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk



You shut your whore mouth. :thefinger:



----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




tapcola
07-25-2017 09:38 AM
Wow no reach around or lube ! 🤣


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Cod
07-25-2017 09:56 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4275769)
I get it , but at this point would it be easier to biuld a buggy ? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A
using Tapatalk

AC / Heat / Radio etc. etc. lol

In for watching the fun, you haz balls!!!


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy
07-25-2017 11:39 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Treader (Post 4275650)
On the dash, why not just create a whole new unit? Maybe a little too utilitarian, but it would get
the job done.


If, or maybe when, the electrical system goes completely berserk, I'll take that step. I just don't
want to jump on that grenade right now. The amount of wiring in these things makes me sick. The end
goal is the engine on stand alone, a simple dash and wired up like a hotrod. I just hope it doesn't
happen for a while.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
cjindna
07-25-2017 11:56 AM
Great daily driver build you've got going here :grinpimp:
Certainly in for the results. What is your workspace situation (garage, shop, backyard tree, etc.)?


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

gt1guy

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4275769)
I get it , but at this point would it be easier to biuld a buggy ?


Yes it would and by a large margin. But that's not what I want. I want the offspring of a buggy and a JKU.
This is my vision of what I want. 50' away it looks like a normal modded JK, underneath it looks like a buggy, inside it looks like a normal JK with a nice cage
and seats.
We'll have to see how that pans out.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


tapcola 07-25-2017 12:10 PM
:
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4275858)
Yes it would and by a large margin. But that's not what I want. I want the offspring of a buggy and a JKU.
This is my vision of what I want. 50' away it looks like a normal modded JK, underneath it looks like a buggy, inside it looks like a normal JK with a nice
cage and seats.
We'll have to see how that pans out


Looks cool man, definitely will be following.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

gt1guy 07-25-2017 10:02 PM

Originally Posted by cjindna (Post 4275857)
Great daily driver build you've got going here :grinpimp:
Certainly in for the results. What is your workspace situation (garage, shop, backyard tree, etc.)?


The roads here in Louisiana suck. I'm doing all this just to get to the mall with my fillings intact. Plus, I should be able to cut over the curbs to get the good
parking spots.
Backyard shop is a 80'x50' metal building. 3 roll up doors. 2-20x14 and 1-12x12. 16' high walls. Walls and roof have 3" insulation, roll up doors have 2"
insulation. Nice when it's cold out, doesn't help much in the summer. Does a good job of cutting down the sound though.
Shop_lights.jpg



cjindna 07-26-2017 05:51 AM
Great size shop you've got there. I'm always interested in the conditions in which DIY builds of this magnitude take place.
Good luck on the build!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

gt1guy 07-26-2017 12:44 PM

Originally Posted by cjindna (Post 4276186)
Great size shop you've got there. I'm always interested in the conditions in which DIY builds of this magnitude take place.
Good luck on the build!


If I had a lift, my DIY build conditions would be much improved. But for now I think I'm going to have to make a A-frame to get the body off.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME 07-26-2017 07:49 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4275345)
Jon will probably say that too when he sees what I did to his engine mounts.
Have you driven yours yet?

:surprise:
That's a ton of work. I may have missed it but why are you moving everything back so far?


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


KOWBOY 07-27-2017 04:05 AM
Certainly an aggressive build ... good luck sir. Choosin' the JK platform will keep it challengin' to say the least.

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4275850)
If, or maybe when, the electrical system goes completely berserk, I'll take that step. I just don't want to jump on that grenade right now. The amount of
wiring in these things makes me sick. The end goal is the engine on stand alone, a simple dash and wired up like a hotrod. I just hope it doesn't happen
for a while.


I was hopin' the same thang ... oh well. I'd recommend doin' it now while ya got it apart. No future in that stock shit. For what it's worth, I believe Bob's gonna
try to keep the Turd's dash and just swap out the gauges. Gonna get my stand alone computer from Hotworks down in Arkansas. They quoted 15 hun'erd bucks
for the fully-tunable computer and harness.
Any real world experience with that cruise control or just an internet find?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME 07-27-2017 07:21 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4276914)
Certainly an aggressive build ... good luck sir. Choosin' the JK platform will keep it challengin' to say the least.
I was hopin' the same thang ... oh well. I'd recommend doin' it now while ya got it apart. No future in that stock shit. For what it's worth, I believe Bob's
gonna try to keep the Turd's dash and just swap out the gauges. Gonna get my stand alone computer from Hotworks down in Arkansas. They quoted 15
hun'erd bucks for the fully-tunable computer and harness.
Any real world experience with that cruise control or just an internet find?


We built the cruise and TAP shift into the harness and its running thru the EZcanbus module. He doesn't have a factory steering wheel or clock spring so there
was no way to use the stock switches. That Rostra switch was modified to work with his setup... I believe they may have a system that piggybacks onto the
accelerator pedal if your looking for a stand alone cruise control unit.
FYI we offer a LS standalone harness for custom applications and hot rods

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

gt1guy 07-27-2017 12:13 PM


Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME (Post 4276786)
:surprise:
That's a ton of work. I may have missed it but why are you moving everything back so far?


Engine moved back for room for the front suspension. I want to fit a double triangulated 4-link, so uppers are converging in the center. The combination of the
housing size and lift height (or lack of lift height) put the double whammy on it.
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
gt1guy 07-27-2017 12:24 PM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4276914)
Certainly an aggressive build ... good luck sir. Choosin' the JK platform will keep it challengin' to say the least.
I was hopin' the same thang ... oh well. I'd recommend doin' it now while ya got it apart. No future in that stock shit. For what it's worth, I believe Bob's
gonna try to keep the Turd's dash and just swap out the gauges. Gonna get my stand alone computer from Hotworks down in Arkansas. They quoted 15
hun'erd bucks for the fully-tunable computer and harness.
Any real world experience with that cruise control or just an internet find?


No personal real world experience with the Rostra cruise controler. But it's common it the hotrod world.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Wannarun 07-27-2017 01:25 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4275858)
Yes it would and by a large margin. But that's not what I want. I want the offspring of a buggy and a JKU.
This is my vision of what I want. 50' away it looks like a normal modded JK, underneath it looks like a buggy, inside it looks like a normal JK with a nice
cage and seats.
We'll have to see how that pans out

have you considered something along this route?


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 07-27-2017 02:09 PM

Originally Posted by Wannarun (Post 4277234)
have you considered something along this route?


Oh ya. I have a feeling I'll end up there eventually. It's simple, clean and probably saves 100 lbs in wiring. I also really like the look of it. To me though, doing
that would be an entire separate job all on it's own, just as involved as everything else I'm doing now.
So for the time being I'm, going to run with the stock shit until the rest is sorted. If it goes berserk like the Turd did, I have to re-evaluate.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

KOWBOY 07-27-2017 02:55 PM

Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME (Post 4277050)
I believe they may have a system that piggybacks onto the accelerator pedal if your looking for a stand alone cruise control unit.

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4277185)
No personal real world experience with the Rostra cruise controler. But it's common it the hotrod world.

Sorry for the hijack ... but thanks for the info. I'll do me some research on it.

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4277273)
So for the time being I'm, going to run with the stock shit until the rest is sorted. If it goes berserk like the Turd did, I have to re-evaluate.

Hopefully the Turd done sucked all the bad karma outta the air and you'll have years of trouble-free service to plan out your new dash. :smokin:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 07-28-2017 10:20 PM

I now have the engine/trans sitting centered in the frame. Just had to fiddle with where the GM mounts were sitting in the RPM saddles to make up the 5/8" I
fucked up on modifying them. So it's sitting where is going to stay. Doesn't sound like much, but it's nice to not have to remember that what I'm measuring off
of isn't where it's going to be. Now it is.
DSC06965.jpg

DSC06954.jpg

The subframe for the dash is set where it's going to stay. Got new longer bolts and stuck some spacers behind the subframe at the base of the A-pillars. Only
had a couple nice nylon spacers, so it was nice to find that saving all the slugs that came from the hole saw holes I put in the axle trusses would work.
DSC06886.jpg

I've got a bunch of these hunks of teflon I'll eventually cut to size and drill out for proper spacers.
DSC06904.jpg

Also put some temporary angle braces to hold the bottom of the subframe where it's going to stay.
DSC06875.jpg

DSC06885.jpg

DSC06908.jpg

gt1guy 07-28-2017 11:05 PM
My first plan on how I was going to run the trans tunnel up to the firewall was going to eat up way too much room. The tunnel and the gas peddle would end up
wanting to be in the same place, or way too close.
This was the plan. Made making the firewall and tunnel easier, but raised other issues.
DSC06852.jpg

New plan. Keeps everything tighter to the trans. The GM gas peddle will go in the spot that the RPM bracket puts it in.
DSC06881.jpg

I had forgotten how much I hated welding thin sheet metal, but I remembered quickly. Unless you want to chase holes, you have to take the time to make sure
you have no gaps.
DSC06879.jpg

Tacked in place.


DSC06883.jpg

I still need to come back some with the firewall, above the section I just put back in, to clear the exhaust and get behind the head. So I decided to make a
shelf.
DSC06911.jpg

Then started working my way back.
DSC06916.jpg

DSC06913.jpg

DSC06919.jpg

DSC06945.jpg

I need to at least get the parts that cover where the ac drain is and also where the heater/ac lines go, before I can pull the dash and make my life easier.
gt1guy 07-30-2017 06:23 AM
Got a bit more accomplished on the firewall.
Drivers side ready to start heading across in front of the HVAC crap.
DSC06967.jpg

DSC06976.jpg

Passenger side getting ready to do the same. This side blows, with the engine and dash in place, there's very little room to work. The camera comes in handy to
see what I can't see with my own peepers.
DSC06994.jpg

DSC06995.jpg

DSC06997.jpg

DSC07013.jpg

Here you can kinda see how both sides are lining up with each other.
DSC07027.jpg

DSC07024.jpg
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
Started on the part on the trans tunnel that has to deal with the ac drain. I'm going to have to sink the circled area down a bit (and add a drain hole) so I can
keep some height in the rest of it.
DSC07032.jpg

gt1guy 07-30-2017 06:31 AM
I don't have a metal shear, but this set of shear wheels for the bead roller works like a champ. Can't really do intricate curvy work, but it's a lot quieter than the
jig saw.
DSC06922.jpg

gt1guy 08-01-2017 01:11 AM
Finally have metal going from one side to the other.
DSC07129.jpg

DSC07130.jpg

DSC07147.jpg

High tech poster board fab.
DSC07140.jpg

At least I'm at a point where I can pull the dash and clean up/finish the firewall portion on the inside.
DSC07173.jpg

DSC07184.jpg

It'll be nice not to have to stick my hand in a hole to take a picture just to see what I'm doing. At least for a little while anyway.
gt1guy 08-01-2017 10:04 PM
Pulled the dash back out. Removed the main portion of the firewall so I could trim up some of the pieces for a better fit. Stuck it all back together with the
clecos and re-installed. Now I can finish the top portions (without a dash in the way) and that's the new firewall minus welding it together.
DSC07207.jpg



DSC07204.jpg

DSC07205.jpg

DSC07216.jpg

It appears I'll be able to get to all the bellhousing bolts from the bottom. Once I get the next piece of the trans tunnel in I'll be able to test that theory.
gt1guy 08-02-2017 10:22 PM
Question on the trans.
Is this a vent or what?
DSC07225.jpg

The fact that it has the cap on it tells me it was cut/capped when the trans was pulled. Does this line need to be ran up high with some sort of rollover valve on
it? A vent on an auto trans is a new one for me. Always figured the dip stick would handle any needed venting.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
4wheels4life 08-03-2017 03:11 AM
Yes it is. I just ran it and the transfer case vent up into the engine compartment, high up as I could. Ambitious project you have going, looking good though.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Dkjeep 08-03-2017 07:08 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4279953)
Question on the trans.
Is this a vent or what?
DSC07225.jpg

The fact that it has the cap on it tells me it was cut/capped when the trans was pulled. Does this line need to be ran up high with some sort of rollover
valve on it? A vent on an auto trans is a new one for me. Always figured the dip stick would handle any needed venting.
Yes its a vent, the stock trans had one as well didn't it? The trans dipstick has what I would call a cam lock. You will blow another seal out before that dip stick
goes anywhere once its engaged.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Keith B. 08-03-2017 03:40 PM
The stock hose from that has a T in it so you hang one low to purge fluid and one high as a vent.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 08-03-2017 04:34 PM
Ok cool, thanks. I did find a diagram last night that showed how it ran. The GM diagram showed the transfer case and transmission vents tee'd together. Not
sure what GM puts in their transfer cases, but the Hero takes gear oil. So I'll keep the two separate. I know my luck all too well.
I also took a peek at the 3.8 I pulled from the Jeep and the transfer case and transmission run individual vents. I guess I'll steel the little caps of the end of the
lines to reuse.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 08-04-2017 01:30 PM
Anyone have a recommendation for a quality fireproof seam sealer?
I plan to weld out the new firewall, then blend the welds with a flapper, but MIG welding 22ga really ends up just being a string of tacks. So knowing there is
going to be the chance of an unseen pin hole, I'd like to hit it all with seam sealer when finished.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DOOKEY 08-04-2017 02:20 PM


Any thoughts about Line-X? When they did my floor there were holes I didn't want anymore and they covered the hole with a small piece of aluminum tape
then just shot over it. Couldn't tell there was a hole there unless you look from the bottom.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 08-04-2017 04:03 PM

Originally Posted by DOOKEY (Post 4280689)
Any thoughts about Line-X? When they did my floor there were holes I didn't want anymore and they covered the hole with a small piece of aluminum
tape then just shot over it. Couldn't tell there was a hole there unless you look from the bottom.


Yes, I do plan to get the inside of the tub shot with Line-X when the time comes.
I'm really thinking more about the engine compartment side. It's just going to get some paint slapped on it. It's also where fuel lines and exhaust are.


gt1guy 08-05-2017 05:42 AM
Finally got all the firewall pieces made. Pulled the top section back out to make life a little easier and welded on the bench. Stuck it back in and started tacking
and pulling cleco's.
DSC07409.jpg

DSC07423.jpg

DSC07435.jpg

The hole for the beginning of the trans tunnel for the AC drain, I'm just going to make something like a flexable shifter boot I can run the drain line through.
There's not really room to do anything else. I already have to screw in a 90* fitting where the stock drain came out straight. Straight, there's a transmission in
the way. If it comes out down to the left, it's off the side of the trans.
DSC07319.jpg

gt1guy 08-05-2017 06:02 AM
Next up was tying the top of the new fire wall back into where I cut the old out.
This is the piece that runs forward and makes up the radius top of the firewall in the engine compartment.
DSC07410.jpg

DSC07411.jpg

Half way done.
DSC07426.jpg
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
gt1guy 08-05-2017 06:12 AM


Got these new motor mounts.
DSC07506.jpg

Picked up some metal to make new front frame rails and cross members. Will get used in the rear too.
DSC07350.jpg



----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Dkjeep 08-05-2017 07:38 AM
Those mounts look like they cradle in the factory mounts? Are you ditching the kit mounts completely?

------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 08-05-2017 02:15 PM

Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4280914)
Those mounts look like they cradle in the factory mounts? Are you ditching the kit mounts completely?


I can't use the kit mounts for a couple reasons. First, they'll hit the UCA's. Second, the way they lock/bolt together with the GM engine mounts, there's only one
place they go......where they're supposed to be. No amount of modification will make them sit anywhere other than where they are now. I'm playing with inches
around the engine/trans, so they're where they have to stay.

Hell, the back of the trans is still touching the seat mount x-member, so I'm not even done cutting trans tunnel yet. Oh, and I'll need to make a hole for the
transfer case. With the engine set back, extra 1.4" for the 90e, the size of the Hero and the fact that the back of the trans is raised a bit for a flat bottom, the
Hero will not sit up in the indentation where the stock transfer case was. The Hero will only catch half of the indentation and the top of the indentation needs to
be raised at least an inch.

The mounts I ordered, get a piece of 1.75" tube welded to the bushing, coming in from any direction I need. I'm pretty sure if I can run the tubing horizontal to
the bushing, I'll be good. The motor mounts sit about at the midpoint of the UCA's, so with 6" up travel, I only need a bit more than 3" clearance.


gt1guy 08-07-2017 01:15 PM
New firewall is finished on the inside, still have some work to do from the engine side. It's welded 100% to the existing firewall around the perimeter, but I'm
not going to be able to weld out the whole thing without warping the living shit out of it. All the joints except one overlap each other and I've tacked the crap
out of everything. So it's going to get the seam sealer treatment. The one joint that doesn't overlap I'll weld from the engine side, which will create a fillet joint.
Hell, there's probably more weld holding the new firewall together than there is in spot welds holding the rest of the Jeep together.



DSC07454.jpg

DSC07455.jpg

DOOKEY 08-07-2017 01:29 PM
After seeing all the sheet metal work man... I gotta ask.
Why didn't you just build a buggy? :laughing2:
DOOKEY 08-07-2017 01:29 PM
PS... got your box.
gt1guy 08-07-2017 01:33 PM
Stock shifters in the stock location would come right up to the base of the dash in it's new location.
DSC07448.jpg

Tossed the new stuff in just to get an idea of what I'm going to be dealing with when I get back that far. Looks like they'll need to go more inline with the trans
shifter higher and back more. Everything is too close together when their side by side.
DSC07451.jpg

DSC07453.jpg








gt1guy 08-07-2017 02:00 PM
And we have this going on in front. This is at ride height (3.5" lift).
DSC07462.jpg



Driver side is about 1/2" worse at the point where the truss is under the frame.
So, it's either A, run 6.5"-7" of lift, not going it do it, B, notch the frame to where I only have 1" of frame left, not going to do it, or C, make new frame rails
that are higher.
C, it is. It will also help with the engine mount issue. Luckily, other than the transition up from the firewall, they are perfectly straight all the way to the bumper.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

gt1guy 08-07-2017 04:04 PM

Originally Posted by DOOKEY (Post 4281618)
After seeing all the sheet metal work man... I gotta ask.
Why didn't you just build a buggy? :laughing2:

You a funny man.:thefinger:
I think it's funny, guys will replace just about every inch of sheetmetal on the floor and not think twice about it. Touch the firewall, and you've crossed some
magical line.

Originally Posted by DOOKEY (Post 4281626)
PS... got your box.

Ok, cool.
Who's cup holder thingy did you use to mount your shifter on?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DOOKEY 08-07-2017 04:21 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4281690)
You a funny man.:thefinger:
I think it's funny, guys will replace just about every inch of sheetmetal on the floor and not think twice about it. Touch the firewall, and you've crossed
some magical line.
Ok, cool.
Who's cup holder thingy did you use to mount your shifter on?



If the little bits of sheet metal work I did on the inside of my Jeep equals the amount of hate I have for doing sheet metal work then I can't imagine doing what
you're doing. :puke:
I got the cup holder from Goat Built. I just looked but didn't see it on their site. The cup holders could sure be deeper. So I've been stuffing everything inside a
koozie and it stays in place.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 08-09-2017 09:38 PM
So yesterday I get ready to start on the front frame. Roll my trusty lift cart under the engine to hold it up. Lift it up enough to free the engine mounts from the
conversion cradles.
DSC07525.jpg

DSC07519.jpg

Then it hit me. This nifty lift cart came from Harbor Freight. I'm about to rely on it to hold the engine, that only has the trans sitting on the x-member, in place
for who knows how long.

So instead of cutting off the cradles, I just let it sit and walked away for the night.

When I came out today, yep, engine mounts were back in their cradles and the top of the cart was about an inch below the oil pan. I'm glad I didn't trust it.
Apparently, this is how the lift cart should be used. Sad isn't it.

DSC07526.jpg

Time to see if the new mounts were going to do what I hoped they'd do.
DSC07507.jpg

Pulled the GM mounts off and installed the new mounts. Looks like I'll gain a good 5"+ over the GM mounts with the conversion cradles. I should have all the
room I need for the upper links now.
DSC07534.jpg

DSC07532.jpg

Off with the cradles. Engine still has a few inches to come down. With the new mounts connected horizontally with a piece of DOM to the top of new frame rails
that will be 2" higher, I'm happy.
DSC07538.jpg
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
KOWBOY
Those three shifters for the transfer case sure make for a wide load in the interior. Any way to break them up?
I got my 3 Atlas shifters side-by-each like that in my truck but got lots of room in there. In the Turd, just got the two shifters 'tween the seats and the third
shifter is under the driver's seat so takes up lots less space.
Fine work ... carry on sir.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
j3ff3ry_j33p 08-10-2017 04:50 AM

this is over the top and some intense level of a build you've got going on here. You have me checking in regularly on progress. And Dookey is totally spot on
w/ question re: why not just go buggy? I think you just like the challenge of what you're attempting . Well, so far you are quite aptly meeting the challenge and
I am awed by simply the tools you have , let alone the building you're cool enough to document and share. Thanks and keep it coming ! :jeep2:



=---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cod 08-10-2017 05:11 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4282921)
Harbor Freight.

When this is in the sentence/scenario failure is to be expected lol, glad to see you trusted your gut!


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

gt1guy 08-10-2017 11:45 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4283001)
Those three shifters for the transfer case sure make for a wide load in the interior. Any way to break them up?
I got my 3 Atlas shifters side-by-each like that in my truck but got lots of room in there. In the Turd, just got the two shifters 'tween the seats and the
third shifter is under the driver's seat so takes up lots less space.
Fine work ... carry on sir.


It would be a ton of work to break them up. I'm thinking I'll just mount them forward of the trans shifter. The parking brake lever isn't going back in, so there is
room to move things back and keep them inline. Parking brake is going to be a line-lock plumbed into the rear brakes.
Though, I'll have to get rid of the big plastic shell that comes with the shifter. The shifter itself is pretty small.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 08-10-2017 12:02 PM

Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p (Post 4283002)
this is over the top and some intense level of a build you've got going on here. You have me checking in regularly on progress. And Dookey is totally
spot on w/ question re: why not just go buggy? I think you just like the challenge of what you're attempting . Well, so far you are quite aptly meeting the
challenge and I am awed by simply the tools you have , let alone the building you're cool enough to document and share. Thanks and keep it coming !
:jeep2:

No buggy.......Jeep:thefinger:
It will have a license plate.
Once the tub is shot with Line-X, you wont be able to tell it's been messed with.
Ok, that last one was a stretch.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DOOKEY 08-10-2017 12:16 PM

Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p (Post 4283002)
And Dookey is totally spot on w/ question re: why not just go buggy?


:lol:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 08-10-2017 12:21 PM

Originally Posted by Cod (Post 4283010)
When this is in the sentence/scenario failure is to be expected lol, glad to see you trusted your gut!

Ya, no shit. I also have a HF engine hoist that has the auto down built in. That might have helped with the lack of trust for the cart. One of these days I'll have
to get some quality rams for them.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
tapcola 08-10-2017 02:29 PM
Originally Posted by DOOKEY (Post 4283202)
[emoji38
]

I say buggy and Im a whore [emoji1]
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

-------------------------------------------------------------
DOOKEY 08-10-2017 02:31 PM

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4283258)
I say buggy and Im a whore [emoji1]

Thank you.
I never knew if you'd read this. :bounce::laughing2:


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________


KOWBOY 08-10-2017 02:45 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4283186)
It would be a ton of work to break them up.

As opposed to the minor modifications you're makin' to the rest of the rig?? :thefinger:


--------------------------------------______________________________________________________________________________________________________---


gt1guy 08-10-2017 10:51 PM
Nicked a bit of the frame out of the way so I could figure out the miters for one joint changing two different directions.
DSC07546.jpg

This is what I'm going for. It will be 2x4 until just past the engine mounts, then transition to 2x3 for the straight shot to the bumper. Everything is at the height
it's going to stay at. So I found the 4" of frame clearance I needed above the top of the axle truss.
DSC07551.jpg

This is going to be fun.
DSC07553.jpg

DSC07556.jpg

The front body mount will be going away for tire clearance. Replaced by bushings in a tube, like the engine mounts, directly over the frame. That will get done
with the cage cause it will all be connected together.
Where the core support mounts is really close to the new frame. I'll need to investigate changing how it mounts.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rodjk 08-11-2017 03:48 PM
Digging your build Kevin, getting bigger and bigger.:bow:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 08-11-2017 04:24 PM

Originally Posted by Rodjk (Post 4283817)
Digging your build Kevin, getting bigger and bigger.:bow:

Thank you Sir

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 08-11-2017 04:36 PM

I have a question for the masses.
On my front frame section, I have a mitered joint in the 2x4. I was getting ready to weld it up, then had a thought.
Would it be better to first weld a closing plate over one opening, then weld the two pieces together? Just seems like that would make for a stronger joint. It
would be essentially be a gusset for the entire I.D. of the 2x4 at the joint.
I think I remember seeing something similar being done on a few trophy truck builds. Though, that was done on round tube, I'm pretty sure the reason was the
same.......strengthen the joint.
Joint in question is in the pics above, also thinking about doing it where the 2x4 and 2x3 join together.
What say you?


Dkjeep 08-11-2017 04:42 PM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4283281)
As opposed to the minor modifications you're makin' to the rest of the rig?? :thefinger:
No shit.. lol


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BlackOps82 08-11-2017 04:56 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4283826)
I have a question for the masses.
On my front frame section, I have a mitered joint in the 2x4. I was getting ready to weld it up, then had a thought.
Would it be better to first weld a closing plate over one opening, then weld the two pieces together? Just seems like that would make for a stronger joint.
It would be essentially be a gusset for the entire I.D. of the 2x4 at the joint.
I think I remember seeing something similar being done on a few trophy truck builds. Though, that was done on round tube, I'm pretty sure the reason
was the same.......strengthen the joint.
Joint in question is in the pics above, also thinking about doing it where the 2x4 and 2x3 join together.
What say you?

Do you have access to a TIG welder? then you can make sure you get a really good burn joining the metal. also I'd take a look at plating each side in a shape
that fits to give it strength. you could also go in a deep as you can and drill 1 or 2 good sized holes through both materials and the run some solid bar and weld
them kinda like a plug weld. just some thoughts might get your wheels turning for other ideas.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wannarun 08-11-2017 05:06 PM


Disclaimer: I'm not a structural engineer.
I would think that method would create a stress riser and prevent the beam from flexing in unison.
Instead, I would follow tried-an-true methods of extending automotive frames i.e. overlapping frame reinforcement on all four sides of the mitered joint and/or
inner sleeve the joint with plug welds.
http://www.rubitrux.com/wp/wp-conten...n-welded-2.jpg
http://www.rubitrux.com/wp/wp-conten...river-side.jpg


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 08-11-2017 05:47 PM

Originally Posted by BlackOps82 (Post 4283841)
Do you have access to a TIG welder? then you can make sure you get a really good burn joining the metal. also I'd take a look at plating each side in a
shape that fits to give it strength. you could also go in a deep as you can and drill 1 or 2 good sized holes through both materials and the run some solid
bar and weld them kinda like a plug weld. just some thoughts might get your wheels turning for other ideas.


Sadly, no I don't have a TIG machine. It was on the list, then work dried up. Plating the sides is part of the plan.


Originally Posted by Wannarun (Post 4283849)
Disclaimer: I'm not a structural engineer.
I would think that method would create a stress riser and prevent the beam from flexing in unison.
Instead, I would follow tried-an-true methods of extending automotive frames i.e. overlapping frame reinforcement on all four sides of the mitered joint
and/or inner sleeve the joint with plug welds.
http://www.rubitrux.com/wp/wp-conten...n-welded-2.jpg
http://www.rubitrux.com/wp/wp-conten...river-side.jpg


Hadn't thought about it might effect the normal movement.
I like what they did in your second pic. I wonder if they did it on all 4 sides or just the tall sides?
And as I stated above, I had planed to plate the outsides of the joint.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


Wannarun 08-11-2017 05:51 PM
That's an AEV TJ brute build. You can probably find quite a few photos of how they extend the frame. The second photo frame section won't have as much
twisting as your forward frame section will have and it appears they only plates top/bottom. I would plate all four due to your 525hp engine trying to twist the
frame.


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
gt1guy
Ended up doing nothing actually. Nothing other than just welding it out. For two reasons. One, it's already .250" wall material and I'm going to plate the sides.
It's going to be stronger than any other part of the frame. Two, I had to tack and re-tack and twist and slap the two pieces of 2x4 to get it pointed in the right
direction. I wasn't looking forward to breaking it apart and going through all that again, especially when it's already overkill.
So I just ground bevels in both side, made sure the root was open and blasted it.
DSC07581.jpg

Stuck the camera in it and can see there's full penetration.
DSC07579.jpg

The it was this dogs turn to play.
DSC07583.jpg

That dog and a wedge held the 2x4 down.
DSC07584.jpg

The two things sticking up are cut up adjustable "C" clamps. Their going to hold down the 2x3 and hopefully keep it all straight.
DSC07585.jpg

Bevel and open root.
DSC07587.jpg

Realizing there's no fucking way it's going to stay straight, I made some small slugs to fill in the area where the 2x4 stuck out and welded those in first. The
hope was that welding the 2" sides first would help keep everything straight.
Welded one side and ........
DSC07592.jpg

sure enough, she's bow legged. About 1/16th over the whole length. Fuck. I tried.
So for the other side, I put the 2x4 on the lip of the bench so there was a gap under the 2x3 and beat the fuck out of the wedge.
DSC07594.jpg

Then ran a root pass followed by a cap pass. Everything else had been single passes. That got it almost perfectly straight. So I just ran another pass right next
to the cap. That did the trick.
While it cooled I hacked the rest of the frame out of the way. Then cleaned up the welds so it's ready for plating.

Test fit.
DSC07623.jpg

DSC07618.jpg

DSC07617.jpg

Now I get to do it all over one more time.
And just because.
DSC07611.jpg
 

Will Scarlet

The universe is vast...
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
766
Messages
1,252
I'm liking going through the build process again, great stuff :beer:
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
I'm liking going through the build process again, great stuff :beer:


I'm not.:flipoff2: It's like reliving all the stupid mistakes and changes of plans all over again.

I did think about just skimming through the build up to where it's current. But, where's the fun in that when I can cut&paste for hours on end. It is what it is so the whole mess is getting spewed out for all. Maybe someone can learn from it, I guess that's the real reason for build threads anyway.
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
tapcola 08-12-2017 06:49 AM

Holy fuck thats a lot of work ! Noce job man !


___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy 08-13-2017 12:34 PM

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4284002)
Holy fuck thats a lot of work ! Noce job man !

Thanks.
And it's still a Jeep:thefinger:


___________________________________________________________________________________________________


tapcola 08-13-2017 12:47 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4284322)
Thanks.
And it's still a Jeep:thefinger:


Well kinda ! Lol

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy 08-13-2017 01:04 PM

Got both new frame rails sitting in place now. Ordered a couple small bushings to redo the front core support mounts and a full set of polyurethane body
mounts from Energy Suspension. That should keep the body from moving around where things are tight.
DSC07640.jpg

Figured out that I can move the lower bolt for the core support up, which will give me room between the support mount and the frame.
Finger pointing at where the bolt can move up to. Everything below it can be removed.
DSC07626.jpg

Right now that point is hidden, but the rectangular piece running into the mount is going away anyway.
DSC07625.jpg

gt1guy 08-14-2017 11:14 PM
New frame sections are now one with the old. Next up is plating, then finally the engine mounts. I can't wait to get that stupid cart out of my way. But, I can't
do the engine mounts till the inboard sides of the frame are plated and that's really what the cart is in the way of. I think I'm going to have to grab the engine
with the "auto down" hoist I have, somehow fish the heavy ass cart out and over the legs of the hoist, figure out a way to keep the hoist from bleeding down
and just basically haul ass with the plating. Should be fun.
DSC07675.jpg

DSC07676.jpg

If anyone gives a shit. Here's what the inside of the frame looks like. This is 5" forward of the body mount in front of the door. Strange way to make a frame if
you ask me, but, I'm sure there's an engineer at Jeep who thinks it's perfect.
DSC07632.jpg







DSC07631.jpg

DSC07633.jpg

I welded it all together, then welded the seams as far in as I could reach before I stabbed the new section in for the last time and closed it out.
DSC07639.jpg





_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________




Treader 08-15-2017 08:28 AM

Holy FUCK.
Makes me want to buy a welder and start testing projects out. It definitely be fun. I would never go as balls deep as you have.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-



gt1guy 08-15-2017 01:44 PM

Originally Posted by Treader (Post 4285193)
Holy FUCK.
Makes me want to buy a welder and start testing projects out. It definitely be fun. I would never go as balls deep as you have.

I say go for it. Once you have the welder and can use it proficiently, the projects will appear out of thin air.


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________



BlackOps82 08-15-2017 04:24 PM


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4285289)
I say go for it. Once you have the welder and can use it proficiently, the projects will appear out of thin air.


Ain't that the truth!! I always find shit to weld together or a reason to use my welders!!!



______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


ExWrench 08-15-2017 06:49 PM
Hey Kevin,
This is truly inspirational - I always like seeing someone go fully apeshit (hint: you're there :laughing: )
Having a "passing familiarity" :cwm13: with wore-out shop tools, when I read this:

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4285050)
. . . figure out a way to keep the hoist from bleeding down and just basically haul ass with the plating. Should be fun.


. . I thought you might consider making a support to put next to the hydro cylinder on your "auto-down" hoist.
Jack up a tad too high, slip in prop rod, lower hoist to rest on prop rod.
Just like a jack stand or a service support for a dump truck bed.
:idea:
Play the "Sanford and Son" theme song in the background for added atmosphere :thefinger:
Good show, Sir! Diggin' the hot rodding approach to Jeep mods :rockon:


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy 08-16-2017 09:23 AM

Awesome! That's a great idea and what I'll do. Simple and quick, I dig it.
Thanks for that.


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 08-17-2017 11:31 PM

Got the fish plates started. I've been making the pieces for both sides as I go. I'll take it as a good sign that they'll fit on either side.
First side piece is more of a gusset than a fish plate. Just some more reinforcement for where the two frames connect. Also leaves me with a workable shape to
deal with on the top and bottom.
DSC07700.jpg


Top piece runs from the existing frame out past the transition to the 2x3.
DSC07701.jpg

DSC07706.jpg

Side plate. Left the gaps so I could hit both pieces and the parent metal underneath with one pass.
DSC07707.jpg

DSC07708.jpg

DSC07716.jpg

Annnnnd, I got lazy and just welded out what I had tacked at the time.
DSC07717.jpg

DSC07723.jpg

DSC07719.jpg

DSC07721.jpg

Still have the bottom plate to go on, then the three sides on the driver side. Then it's move the cart time, and do the engine mounts directly to the 2x4, cause
it's .250" thick rather than the .125" of the fish plates. Inboard fish plates are going to have to be made around the engine mounts and then weld to them.
Seems like the strongest way to go about it.
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
Keith B. 08-18-2017 10:53 AM
Just Wow!

__________________________________________________________________________________________
BlackOps82 08-18-2017 03:10 PM
You're doing exactly what I would have done!! nice job.. enjoying watching this build!


__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________----
Nucleophile 08-18-2017 04:10 PM
I think this thread is in the wrong sub-forum. I think it belongs in stock tech.
Stupid question time. What is the goal with all the frame mods from the cab forward? Is it a tire clearance issue or some special suspension geometry issue or
portal axles or ???
That welding is bad ass.


___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-
Wannarun 08-18-2017 07:06 PM



Originally Posted by Nucleophile (Post 4286785)
Stupid question time. What is the goal with all the frame mods from the cab forward? Is it a tire clearance issue or some special suspension geometry
issue or portal axles or ???

He's doing a triangulated 4 link front suspension. The frame mods give him room for the upper bars. You don't see too many, if any, triangulated 4 links in JKs.
This is mainly due to the fact that you have to run full hydro steering without a trackbar.
this thread belongs on Pirate with his skills and goals. I'm enjoying every step.


__________________________________________________________________________________________
kjeeper10 08-18-2017 07:51 PM

Originally Posted by Wannarun (Post 4286810)
He's doing a triangulated 4 link front suspension. The frame mods give him room for the upper bars. You don't see too many, if any, triangulated 4 links
in JKs. This is mainly due to the fact that you have to run full hydro steering without a trackbar.
this thread belongs on Pirate with his skills and goals. I'm enjoying every step.

Meh Wayalife for sure :rofl:


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________



gt1guy 08-18-2017 11:39 PM

I think this thread is in the wrong sub-forum. I think it belongs in stock tech.
Stupid question time. What is the goal with all the frame mods from the cab forward? Is it a tire clearance issue or some special suspension geometry
issue or portal axles or ???
That welding is bad ass.

What caused the frame to get cut was two things. One was due to the lift height I want to run (3.5") and the truss on the housing. It would have only left me
with 3" of up travel and I want 6". So something drastic was going to have to happen to the front portion of the frame. Second was the engine mounts were
way too low for the UCA's of the suspension. In fact, they would be touching at ride height. To solve both problems I made the new frame section.


Originally Posted by Wannarun (Post 4286810)
this thread belongs on Pirate with his skills and goals. I'm enjoying every step.

I thought about doing that. Just so I could count how many times I got called a faggot for having a JK.:D



Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 4286818)
Meh Wayalife for sure :rofl:
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Not gonna lie. That one stung a bit.:thefinger:
I wonder what they'd accuse me of copying.


___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-
Dkjeep 08-19-2017 03:45 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4286841)
I wonder what they'd accuse me of copying.

They wouldn't do that, it would be more that EVO didn't think it up so its no good and wont work.


/____________________________________________________________________________________________


Scot9055 08-20-2017 01:30 AM
That is a pretty big project you've got going on there my hats off to you. I'm looking at installing the 1 ton stuff under my 4 door jeep once the ls conversion is
done. I've got a crawler buggy trail ready I'm sacrificing for the parts. I'm hoping I can do the manual and hydraulic steering together so it's more road friendly.
I seen a YouTube video where the guy drills and taps the steering head to get hydraulic supply from and route to the ram steering cylinder. So looks like it is
being done by some already. Good luck



_________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 08-20-2017 10:18 AM

Originally Posted by Scot9055 (Post 4287129)
That is a pretty big project you've got going on there my hats off to you. I'm looking at installing the 1 ton stuff under my 4 door jeep once the ls
conversion is done. I've got a crawler buggy trail ready I'm sacrificing for the parts. I'm hoping I can do the manual and hydraulic steering together so
it's more road friendly. I seen a YouTube video where the guy drills and taps the steering head to get hydraulic supply from and route to the ram steering
cylinder. So looks like it is being done by some already. Good luck
Glad to see you made it over here.


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 08-20-2017 11:35 AM
Engine mounts in and welded to frame. Engine is sitting right on the chassis centerline.
DSC07757.jpg

Got a lot more room now for the links to pass under.
DSC07750.jpg

It's nice not having the stupid cart or the hoist in the way. Now I can finish the fish plates with a little less cussing.
This was the ticket for the auto down hoist.
DSC07735.jpg




_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-

ExWrench 08-20-2017 09:06 PM


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4286841)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannarun (Post 4286810)
this thread belongs on Pirate with his skills and goals. I'm enjoying every step.
I thought about doing that. Just so I could count how many times I got called a faggot for having a JK.:D

No shit! :cwm13: . . . :dunno:
Granted, there are a lot of JK idiots that make us all look bad ( :flipoff: ) . . .
. . . but there are a lot of idiots on Pirate that hate JKs . . .
. . . seemingly just because JKs cost the same as 5 single-wides. :thefinger:
We can't all start with total piles of shit, and some of us don't have to.
Book learning FTMFW! :rockon:

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4287257)
Engine mounts in and welded to frame. Engine is sitting right on the chassis centerline.
https://s19.postimg.org/43escvvf7/DSC07757.jpg
Got a lot more room now for the links to pass under.
https://s19.postimg.org/pyrdju6s3/DSC07750.jpg

Any plans (or room) to gusset that mount arm ^^^ above or below?
[PIRATE] Needs more triangulation :thefinger: [/PIRATE]


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4287257)
This was the ticket for the auto down hoist.
https://s19.postimg.org/i0iptl8er/DSC07735.jpg


Simple, effective, and safe - I dig it! :beer:



______________________________________________________________________________________________________________-
gt1guy 08-21-2017 12:08 AM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4287402)

Any plans (or room) to gusset that mount arm ^^^ above or below?
[PIRATE] Needs more triangulation :thefinger: [/PIRATE]



Yes Sir, absolutely. Mainly underneath, because they are falling down to the engine. But something at 3,6 and 9 is the plan. I want to get the suspension
mocked up and cycled, and nail down a set of headers (or manifolds) first. Then I'll know where or where not I can put a gusset or three.
gt1guy 08-22-2017 10:46 PM
Fish plating is finished. Except for two spots on each side that will have to wait for the body to get out of the way.
Tacked on the topless truss and the UCA mount to the housing for a test fit. Truss is topless because I still need access inside it to stitch it down before I weld
the outside. I did stick a little piece on top for the UCA mount to have something to sit on.
DSC07759.jpg

And stuck it in place.
The new frame rails make it look deceiving. It's actually sitting at a bit over 3" lift in the below picture. It's also stretched 5".
DSC07778.jpg

DSC07788.jpg

DSC07776.jpg

Found out a couple things. I do have room for 6" up travel, maybe a bit more, but I think the tires will be all up in the fenders at that point.
The UCA mount that I was thinking of using on the axle, isn't going to work if I want to run the uppers all the way back to the stock trans x-member point on
the frame. It would work if I went to where the stock arms mounted, or I stretch it more. Neither of those two choices are compromises I'm willing to make. I
am willing to compromise a few inches of horizontal separation on the axle mount.
So, it's going to be individual upper mounts with more hz separation than the mount in the pictures has. The joints will also have to be rotated 90*. Basically, if
you look at the mount that's on it, I need the joints C/L's running through the sides of that mount.
It would also be nice if I end up being able to remove a inch of the stretch.
Now I'm up to 99% sure this front suspension is going to work. 100% doesn't come till I drive it.
Dookey how's the adapter coming along?

________________________________________________________________________________________________________
DOOKEY 08-23-2017 07:11 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4288650)
Dookey how's the adapter coming along?

I think I'm going to have to put the wood chisel down and break out the man tools to keep up with you. :thefinger:


___________________________________________________________________________________________________
tapcola 08-23-2017 07:28 AM

Is it just me or are the frame rails tilted down a bit ? And whats that silver beast in the corner ?


_____________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy 08-23-2017 10:48 AM

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4288802)
Is it just me or are the frame rails tilted down a bit ? And whats that silver beast in the corner ?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


New frame rails are level running to the front. The engine has some tilt down running to the rear and I left some of the stink bug attitude of the Jeep for a
better sight line over the hood.
In other words, everything is running in different directions and makes everything else look goofy. Even to me standing right next to it.
edit: The silver thing is a 69 Camaro.

Originally Posted by DOOKEY (Post 4288794)
I think I'm going to have to put the wood chisel down and break out the man tools to keep up with you. :thefinger:


I thought you had a power Beaver.:thefinger:




Going to be welding the C's on soon and I got a question.
Because I'm going to be running full hydro and the Jeep will see street use, I was thinking about cranking up the castor. The thought is to run 10*. Should help keeping the wheels pointed straight and returning to center. I need 6*up for the pinion so I'd end up with 16* separation in the housing.
Anyone see a problem with this?

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
gt1guy 08-26-2017 10:57 PM

Got the C's installed. Went ahead and set the castor at 12*. Those Crane C's are pure beef. They are also 8620 CrMo. Just need to weld on all the other crap to
the housing now.
DSC07804.jpg

Rear housing has been ready for a couple months.
DSC06145.jpg




__________________________________________________ _________________________________________________


kjeeper10 08-27-2017 08:57 AM

Isn't there a possibility of having issues with too much caster ?
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____
gt1guy 08-27-2017 01:10 PM

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 4290746)
Isn't there a possibility of having issues with too much caster ?
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Let me ask you this. How much is too much? At what point have you gone too far?
I didn't know either. I just knew what it does.
Researching it for the past few days came up with negative effects not showing up till you get past around 20 degrees.
Main thing to keep in mind, is why our JK's come with so little caster in the first place. It's so soccer moms don't have to put out any effort to turn the wheels.
As soon as you install a lift and big tires you've just created the need for more caster.
It was amazing to learn how much caster is being run in different types of vehicles.

Dragsters/Bonneville cars (straight line only): 35*-40*
Road racing sedans: 10-15*
Ultra4/KOH solid axle cars: 15*-20*

I think we've just been programed to accept the stock JK numbers as gospel. Just like on Pirate, they preach the 6*-8* without really knowing why.

So, to answer your question. No, I don't think I'm anywhere near where negative issues will arise. The full hydro will cover the extra effort to turn off center, I'll
have the extra help keeping the tires pointed straight when on the street and I'll get the extra tire bite when turning where the caster becomes camber.
At 12* I don't feel like I'm doing my own R&D. I think I'm pretty safe.


__________________________________________________ ______________________________________________-----
kjeeper10 08-27-2017 01:25 PM

I dont know .. never played around with it. Ive read post of people complaining of too much return to center or tight steering running higher caster. I dont recall
the numbers but my guess would be 7-8° running a axle thats corrected.
Ive also read up on bigger tires requiring less caster.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


__________________________________________________ __________________________________


Dkjeep 08-27-2017 02:08 PM
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4287434)
Yes Sir, absolutely. Mainly underneath, because they are falling down to the engine. But something at 3,6 and 9 is the plan. I want to get the suspension
mocked up and cycled, and nail down a set of headers (or manifolds) first. Then I'll know where or where not I can put a gusset or three.


You're really gonna feel that engine with solid mounts like that. Should be pretty cool, lol.
As far as the caster, you dialed in plenty for the lift height AND the stretch that you have. Not to mention you will be able to clock the T case down helping
driveshaft angle and more than likely and still have it above the trans cross member. I caster corrected an axle once and put 11 degrees in it. After it was back
together I went for a drive and found out that I didn't have near enough caster dialed in with the control arms. After I adjusted it out it felt really strange and
hard to describe and I figured I had adjusted too much in. I went back a couple of turns and it drove like stock again. That final figure was about 5 degrees.


__________________________________________________ ____________________________________
gt1guy 08-27-2017 07:34 PM

Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4290937)
You're really gonna feel that engine with solid mounts like that. Should be pretty cool, lol.
As far as the caster, you dialed in plenty for the lift height AND the stretch that you have. Not to mention you will be able to clock the T case down
helping driveshaft angle and more than likely and still have it above the trans cross member. I caster corrected an axle once and put 11 degrees in it.
After it was back together I went for a drive and found out that I didn't have near enough caster dialed in with the control arms. After I adjusted it out it
felt really strange and hard to describe and I figured I had adjusted too much in. I went back a couple of turns and it drove like stock again. That final
figure was about 5 degrees.


Ya, I know I'll have more "feedback" due to the engine mounts compared to the GM ones. I've driven vehicles with mounts like this a long time ago and don't
really remember anything special. It sure wasn't with a 500hp engine though. I'm actually glad the engine won't be moving much, there's a lot of places where
things are tight. I'm going to need to keep a BFH in the Jeep for a while, just for field adjustments.:D




Got all the brackets and the top for the truss tacked together.
DSC07817.jpg

Picked up these new UCA mounts from Artec. The two adjustment holes split the difference from the link C/L of the other mount I tried. So I have a choice of a
little more, or a little less A/S than the other mount gave me.
DSC07844.jpg

DSC07843.jpg

Got the knuckles/spindles on for a test fit.
DSC07846.jpg

Annnnnnd found that the steering arms will likely hit the bypass shocks. WTF.
DSC07823.jpg

Now, the above pic does show the knuckle turned 45*. That's where the knuckle makes contact with the "C". I'd be really, really, really surprised if I can get
that much steering angle when it's all said and done. I will absolutely cut my way to every last degree I can get, but I can't see ever getting to 45*. The
headlights are actually my limiting factor for turning radius I think.
Funny part is I only get to 30* before contact turning the other way. I'll have to do some clearancing to the knuckles. The contact is up by the kingpin, not by
where the stop bolts go.
DSC07832.jpg

DSC07833.jpg
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
 

gt1guy

Apparently a racist
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
241
Messages
1,846
Loc
New Iberia, La.
Next up is getting it back under the Jeep, make some mock up UCA's and see if my complete guess at where to tack the mounts on the truss was right. Then
slap the hubs and wheels on, along with the fenders and grill and cycle the steering to see where I'm actually at. Cut, repeat, cut, repeat....... This sucker is
now starting to get heavy.
Then I'll be waiting for the new super custom badass TC adapter (@DOOKEY) so I can make the new x-member and LCA mounts.



Don't know about you guys, but that sure looks like a double triangulated 4-link in the front of a JK to me. :thefinger:
DSC07884.jpg

DSC07896.jpg

Everything seems to be coming together and threading the needle where I needed it to. I've had to make a few adjustment, but that was pretty much
expected.
Lower links are damn close to being flat.
DSC07891.jpg

And they don't smash into the trans pan either. This is just over full bump travel.
DSC07903.jpg

Clearance under the back of the trans pan. I can still get to the pan bolts if I have to remove the pan.
DSC07897.jpg

No interference issues with the new frame section.
DSC07888.jpg

Uppers thread the needle between the engine mounts and frame. I'll need to grind down one of the engine mount ears on each side. It doesn't touch until a
ways past full bump, but I'll feel better with a little more room.
DSC07886.jpg

DSC07862.jpg

Where the uppers come up to at full bump.
DSC07866.jpg




The bottom of the LCA mount is going to sit just under the flat bottom. X-member is even with the bottom of the frame. The bottom of the skid should end up
even with the bottom of the link mount. At least that's my plan.


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________
Biginboca 09-17-2017 08:05 AM
Maybe I missed it, but I assume you are going Full hydro steering with that front suspension?


____________________________________________________________________________________-
gt1guy 09-17-2017 11:45 AM

Originally Posted by Biginboca (Post 4299914)
Maybe I missed it, but I assume you are going Full hydro steering with that front suspension?


Yes Sir, full hydro. It's been the plan from the start. Complete Howe system with a load reactive orbital. C's were welded on to give me 12* caster to aid in the
return to center (among other benefits). Remote mount Rostra cruise controller, air bag removal and a steering wheel swap due to making the clock spring
inoperable.
No way was I going to make some multi link jungle gym so I could keep the stock steering box with this suspension.


/-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 09-19-2017 12:20 AM

Ok, need to run another idea past the group. My Crane knuckles don't have a "stock" tie rod arm on them. There is only the the high steer arms. I need to
make something to weld to the knuckle that will allow me to put the steering heims in double shear.
Here's what I'm starting with.
DSC07922.jpg

Did some CAD work on the issue. For me, that's paint markers on poster board.
Came up with this. Hopefully it makes sense.
DSC07923.jpg

Idea is to have two of the green side plates sitting as far apart as the high steer arm is wide. In between the side plates would be a couple pieces of plate that
would act as the top (that would bolt to the high steer arm in 2 places) and the lower bolt hole for the double shear heim.
The high steer arm is keyed onto the knuckle, so it's pretty damn strong all by itself. I just figured adding a couple bolts farther out on the arm would help hold the two together.
Thoughts?



////////-___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-

gt1guy 09-19-2017 08:06 PM




DSC07943.jpg

DSC07944.jpg


__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
tapcola 09-19-2017 08:39 PM
HOLY shit Bat man !
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Cod 09-20-2017 05:48 AM
BEAST!

///-----------------------------------------------------------------____________________________________________________________________
Texas_Jester 09-20-2017 02:18 PM

Wow, way cool build to say the very least! Congrats and kudos man! This is going to be awesome!


____________________________________________________________________________________________________
ExWrench 09-20-2017 07:39 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4300753)
https://s19.postimg.org/9924zjidv/DSC07923.jpg
Idea is to have two of the green side plates sitting as far apart as the high steer arm is wide. In between the side plates would be a couple pieces of plate
that would act as the top (that would bolt to the high steer arm in 2 places) and the lower bolt hole for the double shear heim.
The high steer arm is keyed onto the knuckle, so it's pretty damn strong all by itself. I just figured adding a couple bolts farther out on the arm would
help hold the two together.
Thoughts?


That looks plenty beefy.
You might consider making the top part from a solid 3/4 or 1" chunk (mill down end to make gap for heim) and run 2 studs up instead of 2 bolts down. :dunno:
EDIT: OK, material thickness suggestion is off depending on how much gap you need for rod end and possibly spacers, but you get the idea . . . :D
Also:

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4299746)
And they don't smash into the trans pan either. This is just over full bump travel.
https://s19.postimg.org/da0um8h5f/DSC07903.jpg
No interference issues with the new frame section.
https://s19.postimg.org/ulwltxl8z/DSC07888.jpg
Where the uppers come up to at full bump.
https://s19.postimg.org/slr70bc9f/DSC07866.jpg

Holy crap, dude! That is flat-out impressive :beer: Good job!


______________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 09-21-2017 11:09 AM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4301889)
That looks plenty beefy.
You might consider making the top part from a solid 3/4 or 1" chunk (mill down end to make gap for heim) and run 2 studs up instead of 2 bolts down.
:dunno:
EDIT: OK, material thickness suggestion is off depending on how much gap you need for rod end and possibly spacers, but you get the idea . . . :D
Also:
Holy crap, dude! That is flat-out impressive :beer: Good job!


That's a damn good idea. Hadn't thought of that. My only concern would be the limited amount of weld I would have holding it to the knuckle and the fact that
it would be so much thicker than the knuckle itself. I'm not sure how that works. I'll have to research it a bit. I really like the idea of a couple studs sticking up,
rather than the bolts.
edit: Looks like I'm going to need a 2" opening for the heim. Won't be able to incorporate the lower heim mount into a thicker top section, but I could still do
the studs.
Another edit: I just ordered a couple 3/4" heims to better check things out with.



__________________________________________________________________________

ExWrench 09-21-2017 09:05 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4302186)
Won't be able to incorporate the lower heim mount into a thicker top section, but I could still do the studs.



Yeah, right after I posted that, I realized the 1-chunk thing wasn't practical :nono: so I edited.
Honestly, the only part I actually had figured out was: "I'd run studs" :laughing:


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 09-23-2017 11:21 AM
Ordered the front coilovers yesterday. Talked to Ryan at AccuTune (@TRD) and after answering a million questions, settled on a set of 16" Fox 2.0's with his
valving and spring rates. My initial thought was to run a set of 18" coil carriers, but after the total information dump that Ryan put on me, I realized the error of
my ways.
Has to do with the coilover needing valving to work in tandem with the way a bypass works best.
Luckily, I don't have to be the smartest when it come to this stuff, I just need to be smart enough to know who is.
Now the real fun has started. Making room so this thing can turn.
Right now at ride height, I can get 45* turning with the front of the tires just barely starting to kiss the side of the grill. Have room for days at the rear of the tires.



One wheel bump to the frame. Add droop to the other side and it just gets higher. This will be interesting.
DSC07960.jpg
 
Top