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Blue Jeep build

TRD 09-23-2017 11:29 AM
Such an epic build!!
Just got done reading it all, excited to be a part of it!


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gt1guy 09-24-2017 12:09 AM


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4303137)
Add droop to the other side and it just gets higher. This will be interesting.
DSC07960.jpg




And by higher I mean this. 6" up and 10"down. That's over the top of the hood.
DSC07973.jpg


Anyone else like the look of those FabFours Grumper fenders?:shitstorm: Me neither.

I think I'm fucked up in my method on this. (I'm figuring this out as I type here, so bear with me) At two wheel bump, the angled truss makes contact with the
frame only on the inboard bottom corner (of the frame). There is a inch or so gap between the outboard corner of the frame and the truss. But when I stuff one
side and droop the other, the truss is making contact flat across the full 2" width of the bottom of the frame. And that's not right.
So, I think I'm actually stuffing it too far. I need to tack some hard stops (bumpstop simulators) to the outside of the frame at 6" of two wheeled bump. I think
the results will be more.......palatable.

Ok, thanks guys, glad we figured that out.

I think I'm going to need removable fenders regardless.


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Biginboca 09-24-2017 06:45 AM

Damn that looks awesome. These are good problems to have lol.
You have ORI's? Could you lower the upper mounts 1" and then still use all the travel? (You can still run the same ride height, or even increase the ride height
1", right?).

Edit: NVM I see you ordered 16" coilovers. What a monster you are making. Have you considered changing your screename to Dr Frankenstein?


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KOWBOY 09-24-2017 08:34 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4303369)
I think I'm going to need removable fenders regardless.


Lookin' to me like a removable body might suit it best. :grin2:


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Wannarun 09-24-2017 10:30 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4303369)
And by higher I mean this. 6" up and 10"down. That's over the top of the hood

hence why not many buggies have 16" travel shocks on the front axle. Good for you if you are able to maintain 16" wheel travel on the front end (including
steering lock-to-lock) without tons of lift.



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gt1guy 09-24-2017 11:27 AM

Originally Posted by Biginboca (Post 4303386)
Damn that looks awesome. These are good problems to have lol.
You have ORI's? Could you lower the upper mounts 1" and then still use all the travel? (You can still run the same ride height, or even increase the ride
height 1", right?).
Edit: NVM I see you ordered 16" coilovers. What a monster you are making. Have you considered changing your screename to Dr Frankenstein?


I don't have any upper shock mounts made yet, so it's all still a blank canvass. Need to make sure this thing can steer first. Though, stuffing a tire over the top
of the hood right out of the gate, sure got the head scratching started.




Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4303441)
Lookin' to me like a removable body might suit it best. :grin2:
Carry on.


Then it wouldn't be a JK.:thefinger:




Originally Posted by Wannarun (Post 4303481)
hence why not many buggies have 16" travel shocks on the front axle. Good for you if you are able to maintain 16" wheel travel on the front end
(including steering lock-to-lock) without tons of lift.


Ya, that's what I'm trying to find out now. At the moment, it's sitting at 3.25"-3.5" of lift. As I said in a previous post, I think I've been stuffing it too far, so my
data isn't any good. I'll know soon enough.


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Dkjeep 09-24-2017 11:39 AM

I'm done with you if you put any grumper shit on there!
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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TRD 09-24-2017 11:49 AM
16's are a lot to fit in the front of anything with a body, and now it's compounded with low height and huge tires. You seem very willing to cut things out of the
way so I think you'll make it work. :)
Bump stops will help you get a better idea of what's happening. I recommend getting them mounted as far out as possible.
What's the WMS on your axles?



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gt1guy 09-25-2017 12:22 AM

Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4303506)
I'm done with you if you put any grumper shit on there!
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


No Grumper shit my friend, no Grumper shit.



Originally Posted by TRD (Post 4303514)
16's are a lot to fit in the front of anything with a body, and now it's compounded with low height and huge tires. You seem very willing to cut things out
of the way so I think you'll make it work. :)
Bump stops will help you get a better idea of what's happening. I recommend getting them mounted as far out as possible.
What's the WMS on your axles?



Front axle is 73.25" wide. Right now there's no rotor hats on it, so it's sitting 3/8" narrower per side. The rear axle is 72.875" wide. At least that one doesn't
steer.:bounce:

I did put hard stops (bump stop simulators) on the outboard sides of the frame today. Just a piece of angle tacked to the frame. Actually made quite a bit of
difference.


This is where I'm at on the outside of the frame at 6" of 2 wheel bump. Roughly an inch gap.
DSC07975.jpg

Tacked on the pieces of angle to play bump stops.
DSC07977.jpg

Passenger side sticks down farther due to the truss height at that point.
DSC07979.jpg

Then I drooped out the passenger side to 10"down, without doing anything to the drivers side (still held by the hoist) and ended up with this. Tire up roughly
7.5" and now have 6" between the stop and the truss.
DSC07980.jpg

DSC07982.jpg

I know this isn't ground breaking shit here, it's just how suspensions articulate. I guess it's just the amount of articulation that surprised me.
I have another core support, so the one on the Jeep can get hacked and I have a el'cheapo ebay grill I bought just for this day. Time to see how far things have
to get chopped to get a usable turning radius.

Turns out, it's right about here.......that should do it. That's just a **** hair shy of 45* steering, 10" droop and 6" stuff.
DSC07992.jpg

Here you can see how the stop now sits flush on the truss. You can also see the gap that's now under the frame. At first I was stuffing it until the truss made
contact just like in two wheel bump. That was wrong on my part.
DSC08005.jpg

Now, I know most folks are going to instantly think there is no way to make that work, and I can fully understand that. It would be easy to throw a set of 40's
at it, limit the up travel, or add a bunch of lift.
I'm not ready to throw in the towel just yet, for a few reasons. Here's why.
I've been already thinking of making a composite grill for this thing for a while. There's a bunch of the radiator that sits below where the grill openings end at
the bottom. Lowering them would help airflow through the rad. Widening them would help too. Making the center 5 openings a total of .500" wider each, is the
same as having a complete extra slot. That's a big deal.
I already knew trimming to the grill was in it's future, so I figured out that the headlight openings could also be moved inboard 1". Turns out, my ciphering was
a bit off there :D. 7" headlights can't be moved inboard enough, but 90mm/3.5" ones could. Modifying the grill and pulling a mold would be easy.
I slapped tape on the grill and drew a 3.5" light and a turn signal. I don't even know if you can get 3.5" lights with high and low beams in one. More research is definitely needed here. Luckily, I can't say I'm really concerned with how a pair of headlights will look in the grand scheme of things.
DSC08003.jpg

For the fenders, I think I have a solution. It's really simple. Use a little bit of the front to close out the side of the modified grill, and use the rear part up to the
firewall. Get rid of the whole center of it. Let the hood determine the wheel opening.
For the hood, it would need a bit of surgery. Each side would need a pie cut taken out longitudinally down the whole length above where it rolls down to the
side. It needs to get narrower as it runs to the front to match up to the modified grill. Basically it needs a dovetail job.
For the fender flares............we don't need no stinking fender flares. Actually we do. Not offroad, no way to pull that off. But for the street, something needs to
be done. Running a tube along the bottom of the hood with some through holes or tabs would allow bolting some flat flares to it. Yes, they would be ripped off
at full stuff or even full two wheel bump, but I can't see it ever getting there driving down the road.
So I need to get a boneyard set of fenders and a hood to play with.


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thedirtman 09-25-2017 08:56 AM

Nice build, its even more retarded then mine. How much front stretch are you doing? Keep an eye on the radiator as the axle is likely to hit it at full stuff
depending on the front stretch. You might consider rebuilding the upper double frame so you can outboard the upper shock mounts for better clearance. Move
the front body mount form the side of the frame member to the front for some extra clearance. I am curious on how the full hydraulic handles on the road as I
have kicked that idea around a couple times.



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D94R 09-25-2017 09:45 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4303713)
So I need to get a boneyard set of fenders and a hood to play with.


Drive up to Ohio, you can have mine.


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gt1guy 09-25-2017 05:47 PM

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4303906)
Nice build, its even more retarded then mine. How much front stretch are you doing? Keep an eye on the radiator as the axle is likely to hit it at full stuff
depending on the front stretch. You might consider rebuilding the upper double frame so you can outboard the upper shock mounts for better clearance.
Move the front body mount form the side of the frame member to the front for some extra clearance. I am curious on how the full hydraulic handles on
the road as I have kicked that idea around a couple times.


Describe retarded.:D I think retarded snuck up under the cover of darkness. It wasn't planned.
Front stretch is 5".
I'm good with the upper link mounts to radiator clearance and the bulge for the r&p. I "think" I will have to kick the bottom of the rad forward a bit to clear the
steering ram.
At full 2 wheel bump. This is the stock rad though. I don't have the new one yet. I believe it's a little thicker.
DSC08034.jpg

DSC08035.jpg

DSC08033.jpg

DSC08037.jpg

Body mount move is already implemented. Core support is just tacked to the frame for now but, I have a little bushing in a sleeve that will mount the core
support directly over the frame. I'm going to redo the core support out of 1" tube. Will be easy to do and will open up a lot more of the radiator to actual air
flow.
DSC08009.jpg

I'm not understanding what you're meaning about the upper shock mounts? The shocks are going to mount to the motor cage tubework, not anything coming
off the frame per se (no shock towers). Top shock mounts will be directly above the center or outboard side of the frame. That will put the lower mounts 7"-8"
farther outboard than the uppers. There will also be a 10* so lean back to the rear.
edit: I also set the C's with 17.3* separation so I can run 12* caster. We'll see how the full hydro works out. I think it will be fine.




Originally Posted by D94R (Post 4303914)
Drive up to Ohio, you can have mine.


I may take you up on that. I'm not having any luck locating anything around me.

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thedirtman 09-25-2017 08:25 PM

My retarded build is 3"x18" triple bypass and 2.5"x18" coil overs at each corner and thru the hood. 7" up 11" down. 110" wb double triangulated rear and 3 link
front (adding a 4th link). Deleted front bumper with tucked winch mount and still have trimming to do on the grill and fenders and need to build new fender
flares.

I want to go full hydraulic up front but don't want something that is going to wander down the road and still like the idea of some steering if I loose the motor.


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gt1guy 09-25-2017 09:17 PM

Played around a bit more marking things up, just to see if I could get to a happy place.
This is about where the rear of the fender would have to get chopped.
DSC08045.jpg

Added the radius from the hood at closed hood height. Moved the lights around a bit. Created the shape of the side.
DSC08049.jpg

This is how much I'd be looking at narrowing the hood.
DSC08048.jpg

I have to admit, when I stand back and look at it, I think it would look pretty good. Which is the exact opposite of what I was hoping for.



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TRD 09-25-2017 09:20 PM
Did you measure coilover eye to eye when flexed and drooped?
It's pretty common for the coilover to limit the flex and might help you a lot.
p.s. they shipped today. :)


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gt1guy 09-25-2017 09:42 PM

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4304233)
My retarded build is 3"x18" triple bypass and 2.5"x18" coil overs at each corner and thru the hood. 7" up 11" down. 110" wb double triangulated rear
and 3 link front (adding a 4th link). Deleted front bumper with tucked winch mount and still have trimming to do on the grill and fenders and need to
build new fender flares.
I want to go full hydraulic up front but don't want something that is going to wander down the road and still like the idea of some steering if I loose the
motor.


How much lift are you running? Do you have any of the stock frame up front?
I had to make the new front frame section so I could get to 6"up at 3.5" lift. It really just came down to the height of my truss. I could only get barely 3"up
with the stock frame.

These big 45's are killing me too. Everything is a fight.

I know all the orbitals Howe sells have the internal manual steering check valve in them. If your engine dies and you lose pressure, you can still steer, it really
hard but, you can steer. I asked about it last time I was on the phone with them. Pop a hose and you're screwed though.


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gt1guy 09-25-2017 09:45 PM

Originally Posted by TRD (Post 4304242)
Did you measure coilover eye to eye when flexed and drooped?
It's pretty common for the coilover to limit the flex and might help you a lot.
p.s. they shipped today. :)


I don't have any upper mounts yet, so I can't do any quality measuring.:D
I'm standing at the mailbox right now.:bounce:


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D94R 09-26-2017 03:56 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4304145)
I may take you up on that. I'm not having any luck locating anything around me.


The fenders are bent at the crumple zone of the front tub that the fenders hang on, but they are not unuseable for your purpose. Hood is cracked underneath at
the latch where it ripped off the core support anchor, but again, more than useable if you need mock up and sacrificial stuff.


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thedirtman 09-26-2017 07:40 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4304257)
How much lift are you running? Do you have any of the stock frame up front?
I had to make the new front frame section so I could get to 6"up at 3.5" lift. It really just came down to the height of my truss. I could only get barely
3"up with the stock frame.
These big 45's are killing me too. Everything is a fight.
I know all the orbitals Howe sells have the internal manual steering check valve in them. If your engine dies and you lose pressure, you can still steer, it
really hard but, you can steer. I asked about it last time I was on the phone with them. Pop a hose and you're screwed though.



I am aright about 4.5" of lift and yes I had to remove the front frame like you did. The 46" tires have to be a nightmare, I have thought about going down to a
38 or 39" tire.


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gt1guy 09-26-2017 11:50 AM

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4304426)
I am aright about 4.5" of lift and yes I had to remove the front frame like you did. The 46" tires have to be a nightmare, I have thought about going
down to a 38 or 39" tire.


Believe it or not, I got the 45's because they were cheap. My initial plan was 43's but, I got the 45's from Interco's blem list and because I live only 30mins
away from them, I picked them up there. I paid 420 per tire.
I think I'd be dealing with all the same clearance issues even with 43's, 42's, or 40's, just to a slightly lesser degree. With the 12* of caster, I get a lot of
negative camber when turned in, which is great for steering but, I believe even a 40" wouldn't clear the headlight at full lock and stuff with the other side
drooped out.



Originally Posted by TRD (Post 4304242)
Did you measure coilover eye to eye when flexed and drooped?
It's pretty common for the coilover to limit the flex and might help you a lot.
p.s. they shipped today. :)


You know what, your question just sunk into my noggin. The actual measurement isn't as important as the deference between the two. So any repeatable spot
for the upper mount should work.
I'm on it.
 
gt1guy 09-27-2017 05:42 PM

I'm a idiot. There I said it.


After what Ryan said sunk in, I went and did some measuring.
Turns out I was actually stuffing the tire 8.75" up from ride height with the other drooped 10". At least, that's how high it goes if I run it all the way to the
stops. No wonder things looked so crazy, I was cycling 18.75" of total wheel travel.
So now, using the actual shock numbers and having a hard point in space for the upper shock mount, things look much better.
DSC08059.jpg

DSC08057.jpg

DSC08058.jpg

DSC08060.jpg

DSC08061.jpg

So, what does this do for the front end mods I was contemplating? I'll sill need to dove tail it. Just an inch less per side than I thought was needed. I'll have a
bit less of the grill chopped, which will allow the use of a 4" headlight. I'll be able to have a better looking contour to the sides of the grill.
DSC08063.jpg

DSC08064.jpg

Now the tire only comes up even with the bottom of the hood and it doesn't bury itself through the center portion of the fender. I'd still remove the center of
the fender for two reasons. First, the tire is still quite a bit above where the flares bolt on to the fenders. Second, the fender gets shorter when you push it over
for the dove tail. If I wanted to keep it whole, I'd still have to chop it in half and add a section.
At least now it seams I will be able to leave fenders on it all the time. I like that thought.
DSC08066.jpg

It also looks like the shocks may not stick up through the hood. It's going to be really close. Be nice if they didn't, I'd like to keep it looking like a stock
Jeep.:thefinger:




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DOOKEY 09-28-2017 07:23 AM


Quote:
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4305289)
Be nice if they didn't, I'd like to keep it looking like a stock Jeep.:thefinger:


Gotta keep up that trade in value!


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TRD 09-28-2017 08:14 AM
Sweet!!!


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thedirtman 09-28-2017 08:23 AM
We have a narrowed front JK in the shop I hang out in that is going to narrow the hood but not sure when but I know my buddy is not looking forward to it. I
bet you finish yours first though.


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Thisguyhasadd42 09-28-2017 09:45 AM
Holy hell I can't believe I've missed this build, haven't been on here in a while. Your doing some top notch work man! Will definitely be following this thing.


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gt1guy 09-28-2017 10:00 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD (Post 4305562)
Sweet!!!


Ya, you were right. I'm starting to see a pattern with your knowledge base.
Random question. Have you any experence with the Fox External Cooling System (ECS2)? I'm thinking about it for the steering and possibly the trans. It says it
can knock fluid temps down by 150*, that's a big difference.
https://www.ridefox.com/img/other/cooler-540.jpg



Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4305585)

We have a narrowed front JK in the shop I hang out in that is going to narrow the hood but not sure when but I know my buddy is not looking forward to
it. I bet you finish yours first though.


I'm not looking forward to it either. Good part is it's flat, so the pie cut will line back up with itself. Bad part is it's flat, so warping could be a real problem.


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gt1guy 09-28-2017 10:03 AM


Originally Posted by Thisguyhasadd42 (Post 4305633)
Holy hell I can't believe I've missed this build, haven't been on here in a while. Your doing some top notch work man! Will definitely be following this
thing.

Thank you Sir. How's yours coming along?


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Tweak 09-28-2017 10:09 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4305649)
Ya, you were right. I'm starting to see a pattern with your knowledge base.
Random question. Have you any experence with the Fox External Cooling System (ECS2)? I'm thinking about it for the steering and possibly the trans. It
says it can knock fluid temps down by 150*, that's a big difference.
https://www.ridefox.com/img/other/cooler-540.jpg


Eh that really depends on what it is cooling. You arent going to knock 150 degrees off of a transmission. There are lots of more conventional coolers out there
that work just as well. A $50 derale cooler is going to do much better on a trans or power steering.


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Thisguyhasadd42 09-28-2017 10:36 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4305650)
Thank you Sir. How's yours coming along?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7362857327.jpg slow man really slow. Headed to Moab next week so we are focusing on my buddies four door and the
tow rig. Lots of prep work to be done.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



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TRD 09-28-2017 11:27 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4305649)
Ya, you were right. I'm starting to see a pattern with your knowledge base.
Random question. Have you any experence with the Fox External Cooling System (ECS2)? I'm thinking about it for the steering and possibly the trans. It
says it can knock fluid temps down by 150*, that's a big difference.
https://www.ridefox.com/img/other/cooler-540.jpg



I don't have any experience with those. I'd get a regular cooler and high quality fan (spal).



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gt1guy 09-28-2017 03:18 PM

Originally Posted by Tweak (Post 4305657)
Eh that really depends on what it is cooling. You arent going to knock 150 degrees off of a transmission. There are lots of more conventional coolers out
there that work just as well. A $50 derale cooler is going to do much better on a trans or power steering.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD (Post 4305690)
I don't have any experience with those. I'd get a regular cooler and high quality fan (spal).

I was curious more than anything. Seemed like it would be nice for plumbing, having the in/out right next to each other.



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BlackOps82 09-28-2017 08:48 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4305649)
Ya, you were right. I'm starting to see a pattern with your knowledge base.
Random question. Have you any experence with the Fox External Cooling System (ECS2)? I'm thinking about it for the steering and possibly the trans. It
says it can knock fluid temps down by 150*, that's a big difference.
https://www.ridefox.com/img/other/cooler-540.jpg
I'm not looking forward to it either. Good part is it's flat, so the pie cut will line back up with itself. Bad part is it's flat, so warping could be a real
problem.



Used one of these on a CTS-V I built many moons ago... in line with heat exchanger.. did it help I'm sure, how much no idea. Customer wanted it so I built it.



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gt1guy 10-07-2017 06:35 PM

Got some temporary upper shock mounts installed. Everything cycles good with no interference of the frame. And everything should fit under the hood. As per
Ryan @TRD , I have one inch of shaft showing in 2 wheel bump 6"up. So for one wheel bump/one wheel droop I have 7" of travel until the shock hits it's bump
rubber. That tamed the crazy one wheel over the hood I was getting. Now it's back down to the bottom of the hood.:D
DSC08107.jpg

DSC08070.jpg

Also stuck on the hydroboost/master to check for interference. Damn thing is pretty long. Plenty of room to the shock.
DSC08095.jpg

DSC08100.jpg

DSC08102.jpg

Started making a list of tube I need for the roll cage and engine compartment tube work.

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TRD

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4310017)
Got some temporary upper shock mounts installed. Everything cycles good with no interference of the frame. And everything should fit under the hood.
As per Ryan @TRD , I have one inch of shaft showing in 2 wheel bump 6"up. So for one wheel bump/one wheel droop I have 7" of travel until the shock
hits it's bump rubber. That tamed the crazy one wheel over the hood I was getting. Now it's back down to the bottom of the hood.:D


Perfect! That's where we want you to be.



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gt1guy 10-09-2017 01:56 PM
Ordered a couple EMF ball sockets to run on the ends of the steering ram. Will replace the clevis and heim. They are also rebuildable.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/14...g?v=1474386287


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gt1guy 10-09-2017 02:22 PM

Originally Posted by TRD (Post 4310562)
Perfect! That's where we want you to be.


Ya, everything is looking much better now.
I do have a question. How close together can I get the lower mounts of the coilover and bypass (I want a remote reservoir, so a 2.5" bypass?) without any
interference between the two?
Right now I have 6.5" between centers of the lower mounts. At full lock steering, it appears I'd need to move the bypass lower mount towards the coilover (to
the rear) by 1.5" to clear the steering arm. I'd rather do this than move the lower mounts inboard to gain the clearance.


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TRD 10-09-2017 05:33 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4310570)
Ya, everything is looking much better now. I do have a question. How close together can I get the lower mounts of the coilover and bypass (I want a remote reservoir, so a 2.5" bypass?) without
any interference between the two?
Right now I have 6.5" between centers of the lower mounts. At full lock steering, it appears I'd need to move the bypass lower mount towards the
coilover (to the rear) by 1.5" to clear the steering arm. I'd rather do this than move the lower mounts inboard to gain the clearance.


That's a question I don't have a great answer for. It really comes down to packaging and if/how you can rotate the bypass to clear. The nice thing about Fox is
that the body and cap can rotate separately so you can fine tune the fitment. If you need to run them that close together you're probably going to want to have
them in hand to squeeze out every bit of clearance.


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gt1guy 10-09-2017 09:02 PM

Originally Posted by TRD (Post 4310697)
That's a question I don't have a great answer for. It really comes down to packaging and if/how you can rotate the bypass to clear. The nice thing about
Fox is that the body and cap can rotate separately so you can fine tune the fitment. If you need to run them that close together you're probably going to
want to have them in hand to squeeze out every bit of clearance.


That's good to know. And you're right, without having the bypass in my hands, it would be stupid for me to start dicking around with the mounts. Hopefully I
can pick those up soon.



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ExWrench 10-21-2017 07:59 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4290882)
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 4290746)
Isn't there a possibility of having issues with too much caster ?
Let me ask you this. How much is too much? At what point have you gone too far?
I didn't know either. I just knew what it does.
Researching it for the past few days came up with negative effects not showing up till you get past around 20 degrees.
Main thing to keep in mind, is why our JK's come with so little caster in the first place. It's so soccer moms don't have to put out any effort to turn the
wheels. As soon as you install a lift and big tires you've just created the need for more caster.
It was amazing to learn how much caster is being run in different types of vehicles.
Dragsters/Bonneville cars (straight line only): 35*-40*
Road racing sedans: 10-15*
Ultra4/KOH solid axle cars: 15*-20*
I think we've just been programed to accept the stock JK numbers as gospel. Just like on Pirate, they preach the 6*-8* without really knowing why.
So, to answer your question. No, I don't think I'm anywhere near where negative issues will arise. The full hydro will cover the extra effort to turn off
center, I'll have the extra help keeping the tires pointed straight when on the street and I'll get the extra tire bite when turning where the caster
becomes camber.
At 12* I don't feel like I'm doing my own R&D. I think I'm pretty safe.
Thanks for churning this over and throwing out example caster ranges by application . . . :idea: . . . :bounce: that ^ inspired me to screw around with my Jeep
My hydro assist is what I would call "instantly responsive" but not "twitchy".
My wife drove it the other day and called the steering "twitchy", so let's call it "twitchy".
I planned on adding a chitload of caster w/ a new front axle but was unsure how much.
Didn't want to commit to the wrong numbers, so the project was ~ :cwm13: "tabled for now".
So . . . I'm going to drop the front driveshaft and start fookin' around with the control arms and see how much caster a 100" WB 2-door on 35s really likes.
Dunno yet when it'll happen but, other than my time and a bit of test driving, this will be a "free" research project.
Thanks for the inspiration :beer:
Oh, and your build is still just ridiculously drool-worthy. :thefinger: Good show, Sir! :rockon:




__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 10-22-2017 09:17 AM
Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4316337)
Thanks for churning this over and throwing out example caster ranges by application . . . :idea: . . . :bounce: that ^ inspired me to screw around with
my Jeep
My wife drove it the other day and called the steering "twitchy", so let's call it "twitchy".
I planned on adding a chitload of caster w/ a new front axle but was unsure how much.
Didn't want to commit to the wrong numbers, so the project was ~ :cwm13: "tabled for now".
So . . . I'm going to drop the front driveshaft and start fookin' around with the control arms and see how much caster a 100" WB 2-door on 35s really
likes.
Dunno yet when it'll happen but, other than my time and a bit of test driving, this will be a "free" research project.
Thanks for the inspiration :beer:
Oh, and your build is still just ridiculously drool-worthy. :thefinger: Good show, Sir! :rockon:


@christensent just cut and turned his C's and I believe is running ~12*. He had no complaints.
I like your idea of testing at different *'s. You're going to end up with some really nice data.


___________________________________________________________________________________________________
TRD 10-22-2017 10:02 AM
A big part of the JK twitchiness is not from caster, but rather from the suspension geometry.
ExWrench what suspension are you running and how much lift.



____________________________________________________________________________
christensent 10-22-2017 10:18 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4316426)
@christensent just cut and turned his C's and I believe is running ~12*. He had no complaints.
I like your idea of testing at different *'s. You're going to end up with some really nice data.


Yup, around 12 degrees, maybe a little less but for sure in the 2-digit range.
Have 1000+ highway miles and a few days on the trail on it and all around I have zero complaints. The road handling is noticeably improved and nothing seems
to be bad about it. I will say you can definitely notice it really lifting up one side of the Jeep when you turn the wheel on flat ground, so no doubt it is putting
more wear on steering components.
Eventually I'll be running 8-9 degrees when I rotate my pinion up a bit more with new control arms, I figured 12* would be too much and is just an
intermediate stage until I get my suspension dialed in but it ended up not really being too much!


___________________________________________________________________________________________________-
gt1guy 10-30-2017 12:35 AM

Started the reshaping of the hood. This sum bitch is just as thin as the rest of the body. Oh joy, more sheetmetal work. I thought about getting a boneyard
hood to modify, then I realized it doesn't matter what hood I used, because a stock hood will never fit on the Jeep again.
I need the front of the hood a total of 10.5" narrower than the rear, or 5.25" per side. Also, I don't want to touch the last 7" at the rear of the hood due to
where the dovetailing begins. And, I don't want to have my miter cuts running all the way to the front, that would make it much harder to keep the front
straight. I know I suck at this, so I need to make things easy on myself. Well, I think I'm making it easier, I really don't know.
So, lets fuck up a perfectly good hood.
Original, unmolested hood, ready to be molested.
DSC08139.jpg

Marked up after remeasuring 157 times.
DSC08159.jpg

Front and rear sections removed.
DSC08164.jpg

Rear section. No modification needed. Fender doesn't start moving in till the front of it.
DSC08183.jpg

Front section hacked up. There's a reason I did it this way. Cuts are perpendicular to the front so it doesn't change the edge.
DSC08165.jpg

Discarded to two 5.25" sections that are no longer needed.
DSC08169.jpg

This is what I really hope doesn't end up looking like ass.
DSC08171.jpg



New narrower front section.
DSC08167.jpg

Tacked back together.
DSC08173.jpg

Here's the reason I cut the two 5.25" sections out instead of one big chunk out of the center. I kept the part where the spring and the latch goes.
DSC08174.jpg

Have a couple spots to fill in. I'm sure there will be more.
DSC08175.jpg

Here's what it looks like compared to stock width.
DSC08172.jpg

Here's how much the fender shrunk moving inboard. I'm keeping the front and rear sections of the fenders and getting rid of the center part. Moving the front
part to where it needs to be will be easy, just need a couple tabs.
DSC08181.jpg

More to come
 
terrahawk 10-30-2017 05:15 AM
All the pics show up as broken links for me.:frown2:



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Cod 10-30-2017 05:40 AM
Pics working for me.
Side note, just noticed the NightForce sticker.... good shit!!! I'm wanting to try one of the new Nikon Black x1000's but it'll have to wait!



_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
KOWBOY 10-30-2017 07:25 AM
The insanity continues ...
Gonna go to hood pins instead of the fact'ry hood latches?

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 10-30-2017 09:38 AM

Originally Posted by terrahawk (Post 4320217)
All the pics show up as broken links for me.:frown2:


None of the pic from even other posts work either? I'm using postimage.org to host and copy it over as "Hotlink for forums" the same as I've done for all the
pics.

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gt1guy 10-30-2017 09:48 AM

Originally Posted by Cod (Post 4320241)
Pics working for me.
Side note, just noticed the NightForce sticker.... good shit!!! I'm wanting to try one of the new Nikon Black x1000's but it'll have to wait!


I agree, it's great glass. Have the NXS 2.5-10×42 compact on a LWRC. Works even better with my PVS14 behind it.:D Also have a Nikon P-22 on a tricked out
10-22. For a less than $200 scope it's fantastic.


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ChuckTheRipper 10-30-2017 09:58 AM
Pics don't work on Tapatalk. I have to go to the actual website to view....a lot of work you make me do to view.... i have no regrets though. Build is fucking
awesome.....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Wannarun 10-30-2017 10:24 AM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4320401)
Pics don't work on Tapatalk. I have to go to the actual website to view....a lot of work you make me do to view.... i have no regrets though. Build is
fucking awesome.....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have to do the same.


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gt1guy 10-30-2017 11:12 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4320306)
The insanity continues ...
Gonna go to hood pins instead of the fact'ry hood latches?


still have the side latches lined up with each other. May have to find a lower profile solution though.
Here's a cad drawing of what I'm thinking of. Exactly where I cut might change a bit, but this is the jist of it.
DSC08185.jpg

Any flare I make for it will come directly out from the base of the hood. The stock flare mounting points on the fenders have to go away, they would only act as
a tire groover and any flare attached there would be ripped off in short order.
It's just what I have to do to fit the big tires with plenty of up travel and 40*+ of steering. Also having 15" between the bottom of the housing and the ground
is nice. And that's with D70 gears.:D
gt1guy 10-30-2017 06:54 PM
The cutting continues.
Hacked a couple pie slices out of the center section of the hood.
DSC08187.jpg

DSC08188.jpg

Pie cuts tossed and what's left pushed together.
DSC08189.jpg

Have a gap to fill at the rear.
DSC08190.jpg

And I'll have to trim the front so it meets up with the already narrowed front section.
DSC08191.jpg

Luckily, the pie cut I took out will work for the filler piece with a bit of love.
DSC08195.jpg

DSC08198.jpg

So all I had to do was cut the hood into 11 pieces.


gt1guy 10-31-2017 08:29 PM
Got the center and front sections stuck together now. Front section didn't get any miter cuts, so the sides are still straight compared to the angled center
section. You can see it in the below pic.
DSC08213.jpg

Did end up with a height difference on the sides. Still not sure exactly how, but after looking back at the pictures it seems that if I took the pie cut to get the
sides flush out of the front instead of the center, I may not have had the difference in height. Or maybe just less difference. We'll call it a fuck up.
DSC08212.jpg

This is the picture I mention. First off, it looks like both sections are touching the wood, or very close. I basically made my cut along the path of the C-channel,
I "think" I should have made my cut line along the front edge of the of the center section where it's overlapping. Ya, that's a fuck up.:nono:
DSC08191.jpg

At least now I know exactly where I'll be cutting the front piece of the fender. It's going to fit just fine into the custom "raised pocket" I designed into the side of
the hood. :thefinger:
DSC08205.jpg

Just to get an idea of what it's going to look like.
DSC08202.jpg



DSC08206.jpg

DSC08207.jpg

DSC08209.jpg
 
KOWBOY 11-01-2017 04:09 AM
Looks like a buggy ... :thefinger:


________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 11-01-2017 09:56 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4321090)
Looks like a buggy ... :thefinger:

Well, at the moment, that would really depend on which side of the Jeep you were standing on.:D


/--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy 11-01-2017 11:17 PM
Got the last (rear) piece stuck back on the hood.
DSC08229.jpg

DSC08228.jpg

Then before I went for the filler pieces, I ran a straight edge down the edges and remarked a actual straight line. Everything up to now was cut by hand with a
jigsaw, which is fine if you're sticking the pieces back together, not so fine if you're adding a new piece. Straightened out the new lines with a worn out 120grit
flapper. I always keep a few worn down ones around just for shit like this, works great for fine tuning.
DSC08230.jpg

Used the scrap I had cut out of the center for the filler pieces. Bent the radius around my knee and walked them up from the bottom.
DSC08232.jpg

DSC08233.jpg

DSC08237.jpg

DSC08234.jpg



Now I get to do about 32 billion more tacks connecting them all together. Then flip it and stick the support structure back together, which is only glued to the
hood from the factory.


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-
gt1guy 11-03-2017 12:32 AM

I think saying there were 32 billion more tacks still to go was wishful thinking.
Fuck me running. That sucked.
On the bright side, I now have the perfect setting for running .035" wire on thin ass metal with a MM251/C25 gas.
Ol' Frankenstein lives.
DSC08246.jpg

I've narrowed down the headlight issue to a pare of JW Speaker Model 6130 Evolution's. Less than 5" round and high/low beams.




___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
KOWBOY 11-03-2017 04:24 AM
Great job ... now get your lil' fenders welded to the sides of it and then use it to make a mold for makin' fiberglass versions of the hood ... and then also the
grille. Buggy people will eat 'em up as JK's become older and cheaper and get morphed into trail rigs.
Back in the day, I had the same kinda fiberglass hood on my FJ-40 based buggy. If'n I recollect correctly, the comp'ny was called Hole Shot outta somewheres
in Utah.
Doubt you'll get rich but maybe make yourself some extra beer money.




_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Cod 11-03-2017 05:07 AM
Looking good!


__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 11-04-2017 01:17 AM

Started to come up an idea for the grill. Talking with Dookey a couple days ago, he said just use a TJ grill cause they're made of metal. That sounded like a
great idea till I saw what folks are getting for used ones and I'd have to chop it up anyway. I want to make the slot openings larger for better air flow and try to
keep the headlights from looking like an after thought. So, what the hell I'll just make one out of metal.
Stock size openings with the sides cut down to fit the narrowed hood.
DSC08250.jpg



This is each slot widened 1/4" per side (1/2" wider total) and the top of the slots raised 1/2". The side slots are cut down for the headlights.
DSC08251.jpg

With all the unnecessary scribbles gone. By my fuzzy math, that's still about a full stock slot size opening more air flow compared to the bone stock grill.
DSC08271.jpg

I also think shortening the side slots make the headlights look more "normal".
I hated where this was headed.
DSC08052.jpg





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thedirtman 11-04-2017 08:45 AM
Why not throw the radiator in the rear?


_____________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 11-04-2017 10:34 AM

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4322866)
Why not throw the radiator in the rear?


I'm going to keep it so I can still run the soft top and the full doors.



______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 11-11-2017 12:16 AM
Got the passenger side caught up with the drivers side, as far as the hacking goes.
DSC08332.jpg

DSC08331.jpg

Trimmed a little off the fenders. The structure behind the fenders will need to get cleaned up so it doesn't stick out past the fender.
DSC08351.jpg

DSC08341.jpg



I'd like to remove the rest of where the stock flares sit at the bottom of the fenders, just to clean it up a bit. But it's also right where the firewall is, so there's
only so much good that can be done. It's going to be a "what looks worse" deal. I'm just ignoring it for now.
DSC08376.jpg

And hears what's behind the fender. You can see the 4 holes from where the rocker armor goes.
DSC07949.jpg

Just tacked to front part of the fender to the hood to see where I'm at for now. There's really no other way to hold it in place at the moment. I'm going to have
to bend up a new core support out of tube so I can attach mounting points for the fender pieces, lights, horns, overflow tank, washer fluid tank and a few other
bits.
I'm also kicking around the idea of trimming off most of the part that hangs down in front and making it a part of the hood. It would have to clear the grill when
opened and I'd just fill in the holes for the latches and run hood pins.
DSC08359.jpg

DSC08360.jpg

There's a reason I haven't cut out the new grill yet, and this is why. The guesswork is over and this is what the grill needs to fill.
DSC08361.jpg

DSC08363.jpg

And just for the fuck of it, I slapped one of the plastic Bushwacker flares on it. I think it looks good............from this angle.
DSC08409.jpg

The rear of the flare doesn't fit so well, but it has been moved up about 6" so it's to be expected.
DSC08413.jpg

DSC08407.jpg

At least it shows me that I can make a set of flares that fit and "might not" get ripped off, and most importantly, doesn't scream grumper.


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gt1guy 11-11-2017 12:22 AM


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4275858)
Yes it would and by a large margin. But that's not what I want. I want the offspring of a buggy and a JKU.

This is my vision of what I want. 50' away it looks like a normal modded JK, underneath it looks like a buggy, inside it looks like a normal JK with a nice
cage and seats.
We'll have to see how that pans out



Still looks like a Jeep to me.:thefinger:
DSC08408.jpg



________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 11-12-2017 07:23 PM
Played around with the Bushwacker flares a little more. Wanted to see if I could get it to sit better.
Couple pie cuts to help it move.
DSC08431.jpg

That's all it took to get enough play to put it where it would need to go.
DSC08425.jpg

DSC08430.jpg

10" clearance to the tire. Perfect for two wheel bump, would still rub with one wheel stuff, but it's plastic, it will just flop back like they always have. I'm liking
the idea of getting these to work. Metal flares would have to be much higher and the grumper look would be strong, I think.
DSC08421.jpg

This will have to be dealt with. The gigantic gap will go away when there's something for the flare to bolt to. But, there's always going to be the groove between
the top of the flare and the hood because the hood falls away as it goes up.
I guess the flare could go inboard a little more, then trim the hood around the top of the flare.
DSC08435.jpg



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gt1guy 11-12-2017 07:42 PM
Tacked the little piece of front fender on pass side.
DSC08443.jpg
 
Then I pulled the hood, stood it up nose down on the sheet metal for the grill and traced the opening.
I'm sure there's a easier way to have done it, but I couldn't think of it. At least I know this is right now. Headlight needs to move towards 10 o'clock and the
turn signal need to go straight up.
DSC08450.jpg




_____________________________________________________________________
TRD 11-13-2017 06:56 AM
:smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin:


____________________________________________________________________________________--
Treader 12-12-2017 12:34 PM
@gt1guy
Any update on this?


_______________________________________________________________________________________________-
gt1guy 12-12-2017 02:41 PM

Originally Posted by Treader (Post 4338153)
@gt1guy
Any update on this?


I've been working on the grill................and failing. Just bought a english wheel and a shrinker/stretcher. So, I'm teaching myself panel making. You'd think
something close to flat like the grill would be easy. Nope, I can fuck that up.
Still out in the shop everyday though, just nothing to show for it at the moment.
I did talk to Marcus yesterday and ordered the headlights I'm going to use. JW Speaker Model 6130 Evolution #0549881. They are a high/low beam light and
4.75" diameter.


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________


Cod 12-13-2017 04:59 AM
You can still post pics of the fuck ups :wink2:


____________________________________________________________________________________________________


Mhare 12-13-2017 08:40 AM
Great work! I have motor envy for sure. Just don't know if Ill ever dive in that deep now that mine is running. Also, get you a 2 post lift! They are not as
expensive as you would think and they are worth every penny!


____________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 12-13-2017 10:39 AM

Originally Posted by Mhare (Post 4338442)
Great work! I have motor envy for sure. Just don't know if Ill ever dive in that deep now that mine is running. Also, get you a 2 post lift! They are not as
expensive as you would think and they are worth every penny!

Um, I'm thinking you've already dove in that deep and then some.:D Hell, you've got the midget tailgate.
I had big plans for a lift, actually two, then the bottom fell out of the offshore oilfield work (worldwide) and my big plans got put on hold. When I did the
foundation of my shop, I had the center 40x50 section poured 8" thick just for the lifts. Hopefully next year is better than this year for work.
I've been piecing together a A-frame hoist in the time being, already have the dolly, chainfall and casters. I actually have more use for an A-frame at the
moment.


__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 12-13-2017 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by Cod (Post 4338369)
You can still post pics of the fuck ups :wink2:


I could post them in the getto fab thread on Pirate. I check that thread from time to time just to see if my Jeep made it yet.


______________________________________________________________________________________________
Mhare 12-13-2017 11:01 AM

How long are your lower control arms? I'd recommend building with enough room to upgrade to 2.5" aluminum. My lowers didn't last long at all!


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 12-13-2017 12:05 PM

Originally Posted by Mhare (Post 4338498)
How long are your lower control arms? I'd recommend building with enough room to upgrade to 2.5" aluminum. My lowers didn't last long at all!

Front lowers are 54" eye to eye. That's from a 5" front stretch, motor getting set back 4" (along with everything else), the 6l90 being longer by an inch or so
and the TC adapter needing to be 1.4" longer than the standard AA adapter. It all added up. My rear driveshaft will be shorter than the front. Hopefully, I'll be
able to have a spare ds made with a long slip joint and one spare will fit both front and rear.
I do plan to run 2.5" alum lowers, especially after seeing what happened to yours. I just used the 1.75" tube for getting things set and holding the axle where I
want it. I have 2.5"x .500" wall DOM I bought a while back to use as the lowers, but that plan has changed.
I did slip short pieces of 2" and 2.25" over the 1.75" checking for clearance issues. Didn't have any 2.5" to add to the mix. I just had leftover scrap from making
the trusses.
This pic was with the link stuffed way past where it can actually go, but you can see the two other pieces of tube I had on there.
DSC07906.jpg



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Mhare 12-13-2017 12:55 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4338521)
Front lowers are 54" eye to eye. That's from a 5" front stretch, motor getting set back 4" (along with everything else), the 6l90 being longer by an inch
or so and the TC adapter needing to be 1.4" longer than the standard AA adapter. It all added up. My rear driveshaft will be shorter than the front.
Hopefully, I'll be able to have a spare ds made with a long slip joint and one spare will fit both front and rear.
I do plan to run 2.5" alum lowers, especially after seeing what happened to yours. I just used the 1.75" tube for getting things set and holding the axle
where I want it. I have 2.5"x .500" wall DOM I bought a while back to use as the lowers, but that plan has changed.
I did slip short pieces of 2" and 2.25" over the 1.75" checking for clearance issues. Didn't have any 2.5" to add to the mix. I just had leftover scrap from
making the trusses.
This pic was with the link stuffed way past where it can actually go, but you can see the two other pieces of tube I had on there.


I don't know what I was thinking. You would be just fine with the 1.75" upper links and the lowers probably don't get anywhere that clearance would be that
close.


______________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 12-13-2017 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by Mhare (Post 4338553)
I don't know what I was thinking. You would be just fine with the 1.75" upper links and the lowers probably don't get anywhere that clearance would be
that close.


Ya, I'm pretty sure I have room. If not, I'm sure the links will "auto clearance" the trans pan.:D
The links don't really move much that close to the chassis mounts.


___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 12-20-2017 12:53 PM
Finally picked up an alternator that fits the Goatbuilt brackets I have. Powermaster 220 amp. Application is a 05+ 1500 Silverado. Brackets line up the truck alt
for the F-Body offset.
DSC08489.jpg

DSC08492.jpg

Made a table for the english wheel and shrinker/stretcher I picked up. Also mounted the baby brake I have for thin sheet metal on it.
DSC08470.jpg

DSC08479.jpg

Annnnd, I'm finishing up a A-Frame Gantry hoist. I copied a design I found that had all the math with it. It's not so much that it'll be safer than what I would
have come up on my own, but it's sure as hell a lot lighter and in turn cheaper than what I would have come up with. I would have overkilled the shit out of it
and built a tank I probably couldn't push around.
So it's a 2ton capacity, 12' high, 10' wide. S10X25.4 I-beam, the rest is 4"x4"x 3/16".
DSC08519.jpg

What could possibly go wrong trying to stand this thing up.
DSC08529.jpg

Made it up without destroying anything.
DSC08532.jpg

Still have to mount the casters. 8" cast iron with brakes and the swivel locks every 90*.
DSC08527.jpg

I now have the tube for the cage ordered. 2", 1.75" and 1.50" DOM, all .120" wall. Would have gone thinner on the small stuff, but that wasn't a choice. Couple
sheets of 18ga. cold roll coming for the grill, trans tunnel, fuel cell cover and where ever else it's needed. Probably use it all up just to get a grill.:D



_________________________________________________________________________________________-


tapcola
Just crazy
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
gt1guy 01-03-2018 01:05 AM
Since I have the cage tube on the way I decided to play with the painters tape.
Only a couple things are set in stone, the rest, not so much. But it's pretty damn close to exactly what I'm after from a cage. I want two things out of my cage,
rollover protection and side incursion protection.

DSC08564.jpg

First set in stone part is the design for the B-pillar.
DSC08565.jpg

Yep, she's a double B. First B will go like TnT is doing on Rex, inside the actual gutted Jeep B-pillar. That puts it in the perfect spot as far as I'm concerned, it's
wider where it's closest to my head (safer). No X-brace in the first B. Second B goes behind the first (obviously) at a slight leaned back angle. Second B gets
the X- brace/harness bar. This will allow me to run the X-brace as it should be, with no bends in it (safer). 99.9% of the strength against deformation will come
from the second B, first B will just add to it because it will be more outboard and add protection directly over my head.
Being that my seats don't recline (PRP Podium Elite), the second B can be right behind the seat, so it's not eating much room for getting into the back seats
(42" PRP bench).
Other aspect set in stone is the A-pillar brace. Doesn't take up much room and adds a ton of strength to the bend at the base of the windshield.
Bottom and angled door bars can move around, but I do want both in some form in the finished cage. It's the side incursion protection.
DSC08563.jpg

Maybe make the angled door bar removable, or could put a slight bend in it. The bottom door bars could go a bit lower, but if you look at the first pic, where the
two lines of tape run forward on the fender. That's where tube will run through the firewall to begin the engine cage and all that jazz.
gt1guy 01-03-2018 02:15 AM
Also started on the rear of the frame. It's just like the front, needs to be higher due to the truss/lift height/up travel. Also want to move the rails inboard where
the CO/bypass goes, so I can get some inboard angle on them and not have them straight up and downish.
Here you can see where the bottom of the new rails needs to be. Also, on the inner fender is the line where the top of the tire will be at ride height. At the very
top is the two dots showing the height of the upper shock mounts (just random dots, but the height is right).
DSC08566.jpg



The line on the side of the body that says "top tire full stuff" isn't right. It would be if the shocks mounted the same distance from the chassis C/L as the front,
but the lower mounts are wider on the rear, so the tire won't go that high. ( If you can't tell, I just figured that out as I typed) Even though I have bump stops
set at 6" up in front, I'm still getting ~10" up in one wheel stuff, one wheel droop, and it will never hit the bump stop. So, we'll have to wait and see where the
rear ends up, I'm sure it will be well above where the stock flare goes. I'm just not that lucky and I still have sazall blades.
Besides, with a tire rolled up next to it, this is where 6"up ends up. And the Jeep sitting on the stands is almost 1" higher than ride height. Told you I'm not
lucky.:nono:
DSC08608.jpg

So after doing my normal high precision layout.....
DSC08585.jpg

I trimmed a small section of the frame out of the way.
DSC08603.jpg

DSC08602.jpg

Still looks like a Jeep to me.:thefinger: Hell, there's still two factory x-members left on the frame........I have to move um though.
DSC08613.jpg




_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-



CrazyLarry
01-03-2018 06:17 AM

Fuck sake I think someone needs to take your saw away for a day or two


____________________________________________________________________________________________________


thedirtman 01-03-2018 07:44 AM
Good call on cutting the entire rear frame off. After years of hacking on mine I tell people to do just that and I am sure I will at some time do the same just to
clean it up and loose a bit of weight. It works now so not a big issue. You may think about doing so floor pan bumps in the rear seat area to get the upper links
higher on the frame side. Not sure where your upper axle falls out on the build but I would expect it to be pretty high. I also had to loose the inner fenders in
the rear to get full droop/stuff


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 01-03-2018 01:20 PM
Originally Posted by CrazyLarry (Post 4346082)
Fuck sake I think someone needs to take your saw away for a day or two


That would still leave me with the torch.:thefinger:


:
Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4346169)
Good call on cutting the entire rear frame off. After years of hacking on mine I tell people to do just that and I am sure I will at some time do the same
just to clean it up and loose a bit of weight. It works now so not a big issue. You may think about doing so floor pan bumps in the rear seat area to get the upper links higher on the frame side. Not sure where your upper axle falls out on the build but I would expect it to be pretty high. I also had to loose
the inner fenders in the rear to get full droop/stuff



It just made sense to remove it all for a number of reasons. The only parts not getting modified in some fashion would have been the the rear x-member and
10-12" of rear frame rails.

Rear body mounts have to get moved outboard for the fuel cell. Center x-member needs an inch or so removed from the rear of it for the cell also. (cell
dimensions 34.5x17.75x14.5) Center x-member "may" be in the way for full bump travel. Front x-member is in the way of uppers. Then I want to move the
section where the shocks run past inboard a frame width.

So at that point there wasn't going to be anything left anyways.

I hear you on the floorpan bumps. No way around it. Uppers on the rear are higher than what's on the front. If I remember correctly the rear is 10" above axle
C/L, so maybe 12" to the top of the mount.
DSC06145.jpg

I need to make a couple bumps in the front also. Not for the upper links themselves, but for the link mounts. They are touching the bottom of the floor at the
moment, so a little 1" bump should fix that.
Not sure how the inner fenders will play out. I know the top of the new frame will intrude a little at the base, but I'll have to see where the tire ends up.
wms/wms is just a hair under 73", with 4.5"bs wheels and a 14.5" tire.
I don't know where that will end up. Thoughts? I know what I had to do in front and I'm really glad the rear doesn't steer.



_____________________________________________________________________________________________
thedirtman 01-03-2018 02:03 PM
3 Attachment(s)
WE are pretty close on width as I have a 68.5 wms 2" adapter each side and 13.5" wide tires you will loose more due to the extra height and width. This is back
when I ran 14" travel front and 16" travel rear. I had a 1" anti-rock on the back and was limiting my flex. Now with the 3/4" I can do a full 16" of travel. I also
cut about 2" off the armor above the rear tires for more stuff.


_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 01-03-2018 04:35 PM
I don't think my inner fender wells are long for this world after looking at those pictures. Especially if you've cut the armor, I'd assume where a factory flare
goes is gone.


________________________________________________________________________________--
thedirtman 01-03-2018 04:41 PM
1 Attachment(s)
Oh ya, the factory flares would have to hang in the air now.


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________-


Mhare 01-05-2018 03:03 AM
I would advise against that angled tube between the 2 B pillars. All the other B to B tubes are flat also, I try to avoid long notches. That's just my opinion
though.



________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-
KOWBOY 01-05-2018 03:41 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4345986)
First set in stone part is the design for the B-pillar ...Yep, she's a double B ... No X-brace in the first B ... Second B gets the X- brace/harness bar. This
will allow me to run the X-brace as it should be, with no bends in it (safer).



Damned interestin' 'cause that's exactly what we came up with for the Turd design too. So must be a good idea. :grin2:
Keep up the good work sir.
You got any kinda completion date in your mind?


______________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
gt1guy 01-05-2018 09:48 AM

Originally Posted by Mhare (Post 4347026)
I would advise against that angled tube between the 2 B pillars. All the other B to B tubes are flat also, I try to avoid long notches. That's just my opinion
though.


I hear ya on the long notches. Painters tape makes it easy to lay out what is actually really hard in the real world.
My thinking for the angled notches between the B's was two fold. First, was turning the space between them into triangles which would make them both
stronger. Second, was landing the door bar on the apex of a triangle at roughly the midpoint of the B. The door bar ties in at the base of the A-pillar, so that
would turn the bottom half of the B's into a triangle with two points of that triangle tied into the frame. Hope that makes some sense.


Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4347057)
Damned interestin' 'cause that's exactly what we came up with for the Turd design too. So must be a good idea. :grin2:
Keep up the good work sir.
You got any kinda completion date in your mind?



Are you doing the two B's? Or a single, like my second with straight bracing? Or some other part of my blue tape Picasso? I'd really like to hear.
Completion date will come a lot sooner if I can land more work. I've worked 14 days in the last 18 months. This year is sounding like it has some potential
though. I'm the only one who wants gas to be 10 bucks a gal.
As it is now, I'd really like to be finished before I die.........at least by a couple days.


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______-

gt1guy 01-05-2018 07:49 PM

Stuck the fuel cell in. Need it in place so I know where not to put frame rails. It's a 32gal from Fuel Safe. Foam filled hard rubber bladder inside a metal can.
It's not exactly small, and full of gas, at 6lbs/gal, is just under 200lbs. Don't want it eating up all the room behind the rear seats so the plan is to sink it in the
floor behind the axle. Sinking it also helps reduce the COG hit I'll take, and being behind the axle is NOT the best placement for weight distribution. So in the
grand scheme of things, it's a net negative. But it's what I want, so compromise it is.
Big ol mother fucker in all it's glory.
DSC08573.jpg

New home.
DSC08627.jpg

The can is 14.5" tall, so my first thought was to sink it half way.
Here it sits with 7" sticking up inside the tub.
DSC08630.jpg

DSC08633.jpg

DSC08637.jpg

DSC08632.jpg

After getting it in place and doing more measuring, it wouldn't even be below the stock frame.
Compare this pic to the ones above.
DSC08599.jpg

So, I think it's going to end up a couple inches lower, depending on where the new frame ends up. I want it as low as possible without becoming a rock magnet.


A skid plat that isn't lower than the rear of the frame would be ideal.

Tail gate will need this chunk removed. Doesn't interfere with anything behind it blanked off flush to the rest of the gate.. The more I lower the cell, the less I'll
need to remove.
DSC08642.jpg

Whatever I do for a bumper is going to need to be beefcake strong, just for my piece of mind. The cell is about as far back as it can go and allow me to stretch
the rear a couple inches if needed to keep the tires out of the rear doors.


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________-

ChuckTheRipper 01-05-2018 10:07 PM
Blue jeep build
That's what I did with my fuel cell except it's an RCI and I still have the stock frame, i just ran 1/4" across the frame rails for a skid/bottom mount. I still need
to clean some of it up like where I hacked the tail gate to still latch. Look forward to seeing your approach on it.https://uploads.tapatalkcdn.
com/201...26c7ddd9bc.jpg


================================================== ================================================== =======
gt1guy 01-06-2018 12:15 AM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4347418)
That's what I did with my fuel cell except it's an RCI and I still have the stock frame, i just ran 1/4" across the frame rails for a skid/bottom mount. I still
need to clean some of it up like where I hacked the tail gate to still latch. Look forward to seeing your approach on it.https://uploads.tapatalkcdn.
com/201...26c7ddd9bc.jpg


Your cell looks good.
Mine fits inside the stock frame rails, but the rear body mounts have to be moved outboard. The cell just nicks the sides of the body mount holes in the tub.
And it would hit the second x-member too, by about an inch.
I'm just going to close out the hole in the tail gate (including where that plastic cover goes) then maybe add a small access cover with some dzus fasteners.



How far do those GenRight tanks hang down? I've never hear anyone say they hate them because they're too low.

/////-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ExWrench 01-06-2018 12:57 AM
1 Attachment(s)
You do a lot of cutting - are you emo? :thefinger:

But seriously, I admire what you're doing here. :beer:
Glad you didn't take the easy route and just build your buggy from scratch instead of from a JK
:laughing:

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4347450)
How far do those GenRight tanks hang down? I've never hear anyone say they hate them because
they're too low
.


Looks like the 20 gal. comes down to the blue line in this pic illustrating the 25 gallon tank's
height.


__________________________________________________ ____________________________________
KOWBOY
01-06-2018 05:23 AM

O
riginally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4347217)
Are you doing the two B's?


Yesir ... two B's with the rear one having an x-brace and harness mounts. Also with door bars. And
try to maximize headroom to clear my cowboy hat.


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4347217)
As it is now, I'd really like to be finished before I die.........at least by a couple days.


An admirable goal for damn sure.


__________________________________________________ ________________________________________________-
gt1guy
01-06-2018 10:07 AM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4347465)
You do a lot of cutting - are you emo? :thefinger:

But seriously, I admire what you're doing here. :beer:
Glad you didn't take the easy route and just build your buggy from scratch instead of from a JK
:laughing:

Looks like the 20 gal. comes down to the blue line in this pic illustrating the 25 gallon tank's
height.



7" cutting disk on a 4.5" grinder, fun and scary at the same time.:surprise: I honestly can't
believe I didn't bind up and explode a couple disks.
Buggy on the bottom, Jeep on the top, sort of like a mullet, which everyone knows is cool.

That GenRight tank looks to hang at least 6" below the frame. That would put mine about flush with
the floor on the inside. The problem with mine is that it goes so far to the rear and that's what
makes me hesitant to get aggressive with lowering it.




Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4347466)
Yesir ... two B's with the rear one having an x-brace and harness mounts. Also with door bars. And
try to maximize headroom to clear my cowboy hat.


That's awesome. I've always hated the fact that just about every cage in a JK (or most Jeeps) has
the bends in the X-brace. That's a big no-no in a proper cage. It's literally where all the
strength comes from.

Got to have room for the hat.:D


__________________________________________________ ___________________________________________
pvanweelden
01-06-2018 11:31 AM

7" wheel on a 4.5" grinder? Don't be giving Chuck any crazy ideas. :)
Awesome work Kevin!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________
ExWrench
01-06-2018 12:30 PM

Originally Posted by pvanweelden (Post 4347513
7" wheel on a 4.5" grinder? Don't be giving Chuck any crazy ideas. :)​​​​​


Have no fear - Chuck doesn't consider them crazy ideas :laughing:


__________________________________________________ ____________________________________________

ChuckTheRipper
01-06-2018 03:19 PM


Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4347537)
Have no fear - Chuck doesn't consider them crazy ideas :laughing:​​​​


Truth! Been there, done that!


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______
gt1guy 01-07-2018 08:16 PM

Think I've nailed down a height for the cell. I lowered it another 4".

DSC08651.jpg

DSC08655.jpg

DSC08658.jpg

If your first thought is "That's retardedly low, stupid", that was my thought too. It isn't, though. It's deceptive without a frame to reference.
That location is actually HIGHER than the GenRight 20gal tank. It also sits 1" above the bottom of the factory receiver hitch.
There's 8 7/8" from the body mounts to the bottom of the hitch.
DSC08656.jpg

This is from the body mount on the tub. 7 7/8". That's an inch above the receiver.
DSC08657.jpg

genright_20gal.jpg

So, I think I'm safe. This placement has the cell only sticking up 3" into the tub, which makes me happy. Need to put a call into FuelSafe to get their thoughts
on welding the can in place to the tub. I can't really think of a reason not to but, they're the experts.
Stuck the rear housing in place to check for interference.
DSC08687.jpg

First is the good news. With the wheelbase set, the housing and cell don't want to be in the same spot. That's with a 2" stretch to keep the tire out of the door.
DSC08684.jpg




That's it for the good news.

In other news.
This was as far as I could raise the housing. Without the 2x4 there, the link mount hits the tub
stiffener and everything wants to fall of the cart. But, this is at 3.5" bump, so the top of the
housing needs to go up another 2.5". Will need a hole in the tub and a raised cap.
Obviously, the upper links will also need tub trimming and raised covers.
DSC08665.jpg

Will need to trim the frame back to the body mount and take off with the new 2x3 from there.
DSC08688.jpg


This is where I'm at for 6"up, 2 wheel bump. So one wheel stuff/droop will be higher by some
amount, later to be determined.
DSC08678.jpg

Random pic.
DSC08686.jpg
 
Biginboca
01-08-2018 03:35 AM
That tank looks great, nice work as usual! I agree once there’s a frame back there and a rear
crossmember (bumper?) it won’t look low. Plus those monster tires you are running the bottom back
end of that tank is going to be very high off the ground.

And with the stretch it will probably even be between/above the back of the tires. On my JKU that
tank would be ass dragging but with what you’ve done it looks GTG.

My only concern would be is there enough clearance around the tank when the body flexes on the body
mounts? In those pics looks really close but also if your cage ties the frame and body together
with hard mounts then maybe you would not get much movement.
This build is so sick!



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gt1guy
01-08-2018 09:26 AM

Originally Posted by Biginboca (Post 4348066)
That tank looks great, nice work as usual! I agree once there’s a frame back there and a rear
crossmember (bumper?) it won’t look low. Plus those
monster tires you are running the bottom back end of that tank is going to be very high off the
ground.

And with the stretch it will probably even be between/above the back of the tires. On my JKU that
tank would be ass dragging but with what you’ve done
it looks GTG.
My only concern would be is there enough clearance around the tank when the body flexes on the body
mounts? In those pics looks really close but also if your cage ties the frame and body together
with hard mounts then maybe you would not get much movement.
This build is so sick!



Cage will tie into the frame with the typical bushing-in-a-tube, which I don't believe allows much
flex at all. All the body mounts themselves are being replaced with Energy Suspension poly mounts,
which are stiffer than the factory rubber. So, I don't believe there will be much body movement
when it's all together.

According to the 4-link calculator, max rearward movement of the axle throughout the 6" of up
travel is 0.13". It moves forward during droop to a total of 2" at 10" down. So that shouldn't be a
problem.

I did call FuelSafe and was told there's no problem welding the can to the floor. That makes life a
lot easier.


_________________________________________________________________________________________________
rockgear
01-09-2018 03:18 PM

Excited to see your rear frame....I'm ready to chop mine off

________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy
01-12-2018 10:51 AM
Trimmed a little more off the rear of the frame to get room to make a direction change of the rails
and clear the lower links. I'll have to cut a slot where the body mount meets the frame so I can
slide the fish plate under it.

DSC08739.jpg

This is at ride height.

DSC08730.jpg

DSC08731.jpg

This is up as high as I can get it right now. Upper link mount hitting the bottom of the tub at
4.5" up.
DSC08747.jpg

DSC08746.jpg

I think I'll be good, but I need to tack together some actual links and cut the hole in the floor.
Yay, more sheetmetal work.
DSC08750.jpg





________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

PartySnake
01-13-2018 03:34 PM
Nice build man. I plan on doing a double triangulated rear on mine soon. how are you going to run
your rear driveshaft or does the output of your case sit above your lower links mount?



_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
01-13-2018 05:10 PM

Originally Posted by PartySnake (Post 4350057)
Nice build man. I plan on doing a double triangulated rear on mine soon. how are you going to run
your rear driveshaft or does the output of your case sit above your lower links mount?


Thank you Sir.
Yes, the rear output is directly above the lower link mount. The rear of the trans has been raised
by a couple inches, so where it looks like the factory x- members might be in the way.........they
are.



__________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
01-14-2018 11:45 AM
Hit a milestone....of sorts.

The Jeep has all 4 wheels bolted on.
DSC08793.jpg

DSC08825.jpg

The above pics are at a wee bit over 3.5" lift. So I don't have to remember these numbers:
Top of windshield frame = 79"
Bottom of frame to ground = 24" - Lowest point are the LCA mounts at .625" below bottom of frame.
I'm calling that a flat bottom. Ground clearance under diffs = 15"
Wheelbase = 122.5" (+5"F , +1.5"R)

Believe it or not, I had to cut my way to get the rear axle UP to ride height. Upper links hit the
tub a couple inches before the 3.5" lift height point.
Ride height (3.5" lift)



DSC08826.jpg

DSC08827.jpg
Full bump (actually just shy of 7")
DSC08780.jpg

DSC08779.jpg

DSC08782.jpg
Bottom side, full bump.
DSC08785.jpg

DSC08786.jpg

DSC08789.jpg

DSC08787.jpg

gt1guy
01-14-2018 12:22 PM

Looking like the tires should stay out of the doors.
Ride height.
DSC08794.jpg

DSC08796.jpg

Full bump.
DSC08822.jpg

DSC08823.jpg

DSC08824.jpg
Inside of tire is just about even with the
side of the tub.
DSC08799.jpg

DSC08820.jpg
 
Lower links couldn't get mounted any further out on the axle than they are. Outboard side of the
mount is actually welded to the spindle and not the tube.
DSC08819.jpg

DSC08818.jpg

Shock mounts are wide as well. The ends of the truss are also welded to the spindle, covering the
entire length of the tubes.
DSC08815.jpg


The fuel cell looks like it should be protected by the tires somewhat.
DSC08795.jpg

And at full bump.
DSC08824.jpg
Cut the tailgate to
clear the cell.
DSC08808.jpg

DSC08805.jpg

DSC08807.jpg

gt1guy
01-14-2018 12:23 PM

One more. Yes, I'm lazy and left a fender on.
DSC08800.jpg



____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
tapcola
01-14-2018 09:22 PM

Just crazy ! Beast mode !

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________



gt1guy
01-14-2018 10:46 PM
Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4350577)
Just crazy ! Beast mode !
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Thank you.

Want to see something I found really funny?

If I were to severely limit up travel and do some creative trimming, I could have gotten away with running the bushwhacker flares.
DSC08801.jpg

No way would I have ever thought that tire could remotely fit.


_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-

KOWBOY 01-15-2018 05:53 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4350426)
DSC08779.jpg

I sure 'nuf enjoy readin' along on your build ... but I just can't help but be concerned with this here lil' stunt. Soccer moms ain't gonna like that shit at all. I fear
you have put a serious hurtin' on your resale value sir.


__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 01-15-2018 10:10 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4350745)
I sure 'nuf enjoy readin' along on your build ... but I just can't help but be concerned with this here lil' stunt. Soccer moms ain't gonna like that shit at
all. I fear you have put a serious hurtin' on your resale value sir.


You're just not seeing the big picture my friend. Soccer moms and the widows you've been tagging would pay good money to sit on those links. Hell, if I stuck a
big ol dildo on the link mount, this Jeep will be worth 250k on a bumpy road in San Francisco.

I think I'll just cover them though.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy
Got the rear fenders trimmed to clear two wheel bump.
DSC08831.jpg

DSC08827.jpg

DSC08828.jpg

Now the fun part begins, making room for one wheel bump/droop. The rear door and fuel cell will tell me how high I can go, I should listen to them.


_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-


tapcola 01-15-2018 06:51 PM
"OFF WITH THE FENDERS!"
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


________________________________________________________________________________________________--
jhubright 01-15-2018 07:22 PM
Unbelievable
WOW! I must say after reading this whole thread for about 1.5 hrs. its truly an impressive built. You are one motivated SOB! This buggy (hahaha JK) will be
unstoppable with the HP, drivetrain and suspension you have.
Now I can't wait to see this BEAST finished.
This may be a stupid question because I have never done anything this extreme but, Couldn't you have avoided a bunch of body cutting and mods if you had
put in a body lift?
Keep on building!!


______________________________________________________________________________________-
gt1guy 01-15-2018 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4351082)
"OFF WITH THE FENDERS!"
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


NOOOOOO!

I've got a set of PSC corners to go on and there will be some sort of tube flare also. I have an idea for the flare.



Originally Posted by jhubright (Post 4351090)
WOW! I must say after reading this whole thread for about 1.5 hrs. its truly an impressive built. You are one motivated SOB! This buggy (hahaha JK) will
be unstoppable with the HP, drivetrain and suspension you have.
Now I can't wait to see this BEAST finished.
This may be a stupid question because I have never done anything this extreme but, Couldn't you have avoided a bunch of body cutting and mods if you
had put in a body lift?
Keep on building!!


Thank you, and that would have to be one helluva body lift. Never been a fan of body lifts. Always thought of it as putting the body on stilts. I could understand
maybe .5" to avoid cutting, but that's about it.


_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 01-15-2018 11:25 PM

In the quest to get the axle back as far as possible, I took the torch to the wing gussets on the back of the housing.
Should have listened to thedirtman last June when he said:


Looks good, I don't know if i would keep the wings out back, I think I would just do enough to tie into the rear brace.

Followed by me saying:

I did keep the wings on the back. I like the idea of them tying into the structure on the inside of the housing. They can always be ground to a lower
profile if they get too close to the fuel cell at full bump. It will be a while before I find that out.


Well, "a while" was today. I just trimmed enough so there wasn't anything sticking out past the housing. Bought me about .75".
DSC08859.jpg




So with the axle moved back as far as it can ever go, I trimmed my way to max one wheel bump/one
wheel droop.

Here's where I ended up.


DSC08849.jpg


DSC08850.jpg

That is 8.5" up, with the other side 10" droop. It ain't never going any more. It's less than the
front, but considering the front has about a foot more length from the LCA/shock mounts to the WMS,
I'm not surprised.

Took about half of the inner wheel tub out. Tire was hitting the low spot on the top. Dirtman
mentioned removing it, and it just makes life easier. It also looks like I can gain some extra room
on the inside when making the new wheel tub. Thinking a little shelf for an ammo can on each side.
DSC08854.jpg

DSC08852.jpg

DSC08853.jpg


So this is where it ended up. Ready for
the armor.


Back at ride height.

DSC08865.jpg

DSC08866.jpg

DSC08864.jpg

DSC08863.jpg



Now the hard part, making the other side look exactly the same.
 
tapcola
01-16-2018 07:54 AM

" SORRY KIDDO YOUR NOT GOING TO COLLEGE DADS BILDING A BAD ASS JK ! "

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


_____________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
01-16-2018 09:08 AM


Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4351338)
" SORRY KIDDO YOUR NOT GOING TO COLLEGE DADS BILDING A BAD ASS JK ! "
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


That very well could be the reason the boy joined the Marines. :thefinger: Daughter got her Masters all on her own. But then, she's way smarter than the boy
or I.

In all honesty, I had been buying the parts for this build for the past 3-4 years. So while it's added up, I never had to come up with a giant check at any one
time. Plus, I was beating on the Jeep while the parts piled up.


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________-
jhubright 01-16-2018 11:31 AM
Its too bad you couldn't use that rear pumpkin as a fuel cell. That thing is bigger than most gas tanks! LOL:grin2:lol:

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________-
ChuckTheRipper 01-16-2018 11:37 AM
Holy hell gt1guy, how old are you? I was imagining mid 30s for some reason, but I must be a little off lol.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


_________________________________________________________________________________________________________---
Wannarun 01-16-2018 02:13 PM

Where exactly does the coilover shock fit in this space?


________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 01-16-2018 03:12 PM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4351473)
Holy hell gt1guy, how old are you? I was imagining mid 30s for some reason, but I must be a little off lol.


Shit, I was mid 30's 20 years ago. I'm old enough to be your dad. Hell, I could have been your dad,
but that German Shepard beat me up the stairs.:thefinger:
56 to be exact.




Originally Posted by Wannarun (Post 4351594)
Where exactly does the coilover shock fit in this space?


Run a line roughly parallel with the side of the tire from the lower mount up about 25". Upper
mounts will tie into the cage.

_________________________________________________________________________________________
j3ff3ry_j33p
01-16-2018 04:40 PM
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4346002)
...

I trimmed a small section of the frame out of the way.
DSC08603.jpg

...


hahaha
Thank-you for sharing all of this awesomeness, man. I got only mildly annoyed that even during the
fab your rig 'matches' and looks all cool. Heck, just with damned painters tape and seat test
fitted...even the fckn wheel in background is blue and everything ...you suck for making the rest
of us look lame. I aspire to have half of your skill and dream of a similar bucket of tools.
:jeep2:
:thefinger::wink2:


/-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
gt1guy
01-16-2018 06:51 PM


Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p (Post 4351642)

hahaha
Thank-you for sharing all of this awesomeness, man. I got only mildly annoyed that even during the
fab your rig 'matches' and looks all cool. Heck, just with damned painters tape and seat test
fitted...even the fckn wheel in background is blue and everything ...you suck for making the rest
of us look lame. I aspire to have half of your skill and dream of a similar bucket of tools.
:jeep2:
:thefinger::wink2:


Thank you Sir. Hey, at least it's not purple right? For a couple minutes today it was the color of
fire and putrid black smoke.



I had dug all the foam out of here.
DSC08872.jpg

Proceeded to continue trimming with the pile of foam on the floor, same as I've been doing for the
past two days. Pile lights on fire. That shit went up fast.
Aftermath.
DSC08868.jpg


Worst part was that I had all the doors closed, it was 16* outside and inside the shop was still in
the mid 40's. T-shirt and a hoodie was perfect. After 'Ol Smokey went off I had to open the doors
and turn on the fan. That ended the day.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-


gt1guy
01-16-2018 08:04 PM

Got the passenger side done. Matches driver side pretty damn good.
DSC08870.jpg

DSC08876.jpg

DSC08889.jpg

DSC08898.jpg

In this pic you can sort of see the inner and outer skins. I'm going to box that in all the way to
the back. That will add a lot of strength to what is a really weak spot right now. I've got a
couple other ideas to add strength to the door area and the top of the bed sides. The filler plate
at the angled part of the door will become ( with some added nutcerts) part of the mounting for the
tube flares.

DSC08893.jpg

Then I drug this fella out and told it to start getting it's game face on.......

DSC08900.jpg




_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
j3ff3ry_j33p 01-17-2018 04:17 AM


Well, that’s surprising; am I stupid for having thought that the foam body filler we all have cut
thru or at least seen and gouged (if you’ve ever run a wire for aux lighting thru your firewall)
would be FIREproof ?! I am a bit shocked that it was ignitable.
Glad you opened to get air as that stuff’s likely more toxic when aflame than a melted, purple
,”Life Is Good” tire cover , heh :wink_animate:
:jeep2:

_____________________________________________________________________________________________-
gt1guy
01-17-2018 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p (Post 4351841)

Well, that’s surprising; am I stupid for having thought that the foam body filler we all have cut
thru or at least seen and gouged (if you’ve ever run a wire for aux lighting thru your firewall)
would be FIREproof ?! I am a bit shocked that it was ignitable.
Glad you opened to get air as that stuff’s likely more toxic when aflame than a melted, purple
,”Life Is Good” tire cover , heh :wink_animate:


That was my first thought too, "Why isn't this fireproof". I just assumed it would be. It had just
been putting off a little white smoke when cutting into the confined spaces. But once it was in a
pile on the floor (with more oxygen) poof, fire and thick black smoke with those floating
carbuncles that look like I lit an acetylene torch.

I also expected it to be way stiffer than it is. It's there to absorb energy after all. It makes a
down pillow feel hard. More surprising than anything and yes, I felt a little stupid after the
fact.



_________________________________________________________________________________________
mikebigh
01-18-2018 11:34 AM
This thing is sick. Looking forward to watching it get finished. I havent posted for a year or two,
to come back and see this stuff is really cool.
good work op!

_________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
01-18-2018 01:18 PM

Originally Posted by mikebigh (Post 4352753)
This thing is sick. Looking forward to watching it get finished. I havent posted for a year or two,
to come back and see this stuff is really cool.
good work op!


Thank you.
And don't wait another two years to post again, stick around.:thefinger:

With the JL out now, I'm a little less of an idiot for cutting up a JK. I'm sticking with that
story.


___________________________________________________________________________________________-
rockgear
01-23-2018 06:29 PM
Bump for pics and updates.....subscribed

_________________________________________________________________________---


ExWrench
01-23-2018 07:54 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4351698)
Got the passenger side done. Matches driver side pretty damn good . . .
https://s19.postimg.org/o3p71dgcj/DSC08889.jpg


I'm sure you're aware of what you did there, but that's some clever shit!
Body separated from frame, and ~all structural rigidity cut out of the sheet metal - need to weld
in some supports? NOPE! Chrysler already welded in some supports overhead in case you go apeshit
cutting on the body :rockon:


________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
01-23-2018 08:25 PM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4354713)
I'm sure you're aware of what you did there, but that's some clever shit!
Body separated from frame, and ~all structural rigidity cut out of the sheet metal - need to weld
in some supports? NOPE! Chrysler already welded in some supports overhead in case you go apeshit
cutting on the body :rockon:


Oh no, I ain't touching that cage till the rear is sitting back on a frame. And, it's a wiggly
mufugger right now. Slamming the back door shut would be a really bad idea at the moment.



____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

ExWrench
01-23-2018 10:00 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4354729)
Slamming the back door shut would be a really bad idea at the moment.


" . . . and that, kids, is how Kevin accidentally invented the reverse-dovetail body mod when he was pissed off and in a hurry . . . " :laughing:


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________



gt1guy
01-23-2018 10:48 PM

Attempt #1 on the rear frame.
DSC08937.jpg

Attempt #1 didn't work out worth a fuck. At least not with a straight piece coming out of the
frame.
Tried bumping the tub a little.
DSC08905.jpg
Then tried
bumping the tub a bit more.
DSC08911.jpg



Then got
smart. Just made the room I needed. Hey, I tried.
DSC08985.jpg

Attempt #2 on the rear frame comes straight up and out of the frame to clear the lower link, then
kicks inboard a frame width.
DSC08947.jpg

DSC08954.jpg

This is why I could never have bumped my way to a happy place. I'm going to need a x-member there
too, which will be inside the tub.
DSC08961.jpg

Final product.
DSC08965.jpg

DSC08966.jpg

Since I have to outboard the rear body mounts, I just ran the frame straight back, instead of
kicking it back outboard where the stock frame ends. Reason is two fold. One, it better protects
the cell. Two, even with outboarding the body mounts, they wont be any farther outboard than the
stock frame was.
White and orange marks are where the stock frame stuck out.
DSC08970.jpg

This is where the new outboard rear body mounts are going. Will reinforce that area up a bit, but
it appears to be pretty strong.
 
DSC08973.jpg

Ready to make the actual rails out of 3/16" wall 2x3 instead of the 1/4" scrap I used for mock up.
DSC08979.jpg


So, what will this new frame get me? It rises fast enough to clear the lowers through articulation,
it moves the horizontal run inboard a full frame width compared to the stock one and the bottom of
the horizontal run is 4" higher than the stock frame.



_____________________________________________________________________________________________________

Keith B.
01-24-2018 06:47 AM
Wow! I like the term "I tried bumping the tub up". :)

___________________________________________________________________-
tapcola
01-24-2018 06:52 AM
It's still a bit of a jk 🤣🤣🤣

______________________________________________________________________________________

KOWBOY
01-24-2018 07:45 AM

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4354889)
It's still a bit of a jk

I'm still strugglin' with this one ... believe the majority of the JK done hit the shop floor at
this point.
It's a nice lookin' buggy tho. :thefinger:

_________________________________________________________________________________
Cod
01-24-2018 07:46 AM
Man has balls!

_____________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
01-24-2018 08:42 AM

Originally Posted by Keith B. (Post 4354882)
Wow! I like the term "I tried bumping the tub up". :)


Thank you Sir.

Would have been nice if that would have worked, quick and simple solution for a little more room. I
thought I might get lucky as I was baby stepping my way to where things needed to be, in the end it
was just wishful thinking.


Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4354889)
It's still a bit of a jk 🤣🤣🤣

I had actually thought the rear would get away with less cutting. I was obviously wrong.:nono: I
guess if I do the sheet metal right it wont be that bad, but it's not like I can make things
disappear. I've said before, you'll never notice when the inside of the tub is LineX'd, ya, there's
no hiding all this.

Hey, at least the tires don't really intrude too far inside.:thefinger:

Hopefully the 42" rear bench seat I have will cover most of the shit in the rear. Provided it will
still fit. I think it will.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy
01-24-2018 08:49 AM
And if you think the Jeep is a pain in the ass. I just got a call for work. They want me to leave
now. First drive 45 mins east to a machine shop, then turn around and drive to Baytown, Tx, just to
take a class tomorrow for a badge to get into a refinery, then drive home so I can wait a week for
the badge to get done.
oh joy

__________________________________________________________________________

Thisguyhasadd42
01-24-2018 02:43 PM
:
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4355002)
And if you think the Jeep is a pain in the ass. I just got a call for work. They want me to leave
now. First drive 45 mins east to a machine shop, then turn around and drive to Baytown, Tx, just to
take a class tomorrow for a badge to get into a refinery, then drive home so I can wait a week for
the badge to get done.
oh joy


Jeeps coming along nicely! That foam shit lights ups so fast, it’s no wonder these things burn to
the ground ha.

Had to do an 8hr class to get into a BP refinery the end of last year. Was pretty miserable, they
take that shit seriously that’s for sure.


______________________________________________________________________________________________________
j3ff3ry_j33p
01-24-2018 03:13 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4355002)
And if you think the Jeep is a pain in the ass. I just got a call for work. They want me to leave
now. First drive 45 mins east to a machine shop, then turn around and drive to Baytown, Tx, just to
take a class tomorrow for a badge to get into a refinery, then drive home so I can wait a week for
the badge to get done.
oh joy


hey. As a security programmer and developer,
I resemble the reason you have to go to train for that security badge. Don't mock the badge. I
don't want Allah bein praised in no refinery , especially one with you in it
... Plus, that crap pays for more steel so the rest of us can be ,like,
:jawdrop:

(if it makes ya feel better, I just found out I gotta fly to Vegas next week... and not for
gambling )
:wink_animate:
:jeep2:


/////__________________________________________________________________________________________________





tapcola
01-24-2018 04:30 PM

Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p (Post 4355409)
hey. As a security programmer and developer,
I resemble the reason you have to go to train for that security badge. Don't mock the badge. I
don't want Allah bein praised in no refinery , especially one with you in it
... Plus, that crap pays for more steel so the rest of us can be ,like,
:jawdrop:
(if it makes ya feel better, I just found out I gotta fly to Vegas next week... and not for
gambling ):wink_animate:
:jeep2:


Hit me up maybe we can go wheeling!


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
ExWrench
01-24-2018 08:28 PM


I must speak on behalf of the noble cheap foam being egregiously vilified :drama:
[DEFENSE OF THE FOAM]

Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p (Post 4351841)

Well, that’s surprising; am I stupid for having thought that the foam body filler we all have cut
thru or at least seen and gouged (if you’ve ever run a wire for aux lighting thru your firewall)
would be FIREproof ?! I am a bit shocked that it was ignitable.
Glad you opened to get air as that stuff’s likely more toxic when aflame than a melted, purple
,”Life Is Good” tire cover , heh :wink_animate:
:jeep2:


Anything capable of being oxidized is ignitable, including many metals. Let a grinder spark cross
the garage and hit a piece of steel wool that a fan is blowing on and see how quick m̶y̶ :cwm13:
er, um, your wooden workbench needs rescuing :eek: The flammability level of that foam is
acceptable IMHO, and I would not want a bunch of chlorinated foam for flame retardance - it just
makes the smoke 10x nastier. If you manage to set that foam on fire as-installed, the foam ain't
really your problem's root cause. :laughing: . . . :(

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4352065)
That was my first thought too, "Why isn't this fireproof". I just assumed it would be. It had just
been putting off a little white smoke when cutting into the confined spaces. But once it was in a
pile on the floor (with more oxygen) poof, fire and thick black smoke with those floating
carbuncles that look like I lit an acetylene torch.

I also expected it to be way stiffer than it is. It's there to absorb energy after all. It makes a
down pillow feel hard. More surprising than anything and yes, I felt a little stupid after the
fact.

I'm pretty sure that foam is just there to make these tin boxes not feel & sound too
tin-shitboxy-ish.

Dampening materials make a huge difference between "solid, quiet vehicle" and "tin shitbox". My
Baja bug has zero carpet or headliner (or interior :laughing: ), and solid motor mounts transmit
all drivetrain noise to the ginormous parabolic speaker overhead (bare steel bug roof). They curved
and embossed a lot of panels on the JK, but there are still a lot of flat-ish expanses that would
love to warble, bong, and rattle if not for that little bit of foam.

"Hardcore badasses" won't care about "a little noise" because racecar and all, but the other 99% of
new JK purchasers don't understand how badass it is to hear the machine in its full glory :rockon:


:D
Assuming foam's just there to plug a few holes cheaply, provide vibration / sound dampening and
maybe act as insulation :dunno:, Jeep needed to make it as light as possible for performance and fuel economy (and material cost). One of many reasons these buckets don't cost more than they already (ridiculously) do,
that foam is a great example of using the least amount of material and labor required to make our cheap tin shitboxes feel and sound more "upscale"
:grinpimp:


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________-
[/DEFENSE OF THE FOAM] :thefinger:

j3ff3ry_j33p 01-25-2018 05:28 AM

as a repressed ‘destroyer’ of all things ( I dig breaking stuff or burning stuff or generally testing limits of material integrity) , I promise I understand that , in
reality EVERYTHING can burn or melt ...once Earth reaches a certain time in the future, it’ll be an ash swept away into the dark matter from whence it came; I
was just surprised it ignited that quickly. But, you’re right; that’s just audible and possibly climate insulating expanding foam that , now that I think about it and
our JKs paper thin sheet metals , may even aid in impact resistance ( iows, prevent your 4year old from causing indentation of the crap by knocking his teddy
bear into it , lol. )?
Maybe not.
At any rate, burning stuffs is awesome :flame:.
:jeep2:


__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
gt1guy 01-25-2018 12:19 PM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4355529)
[DEFENSE OF THE FOAM]
"tin shitbox"
[/DEFENSE OF THE FOAM] :thefinger:



You Racist:thefinger:


I believe you're right about the sound deadening. This was soft foam that was easy to smash between your fingers and stayed that way. I'd break it all down on
the molecular level for ya, cause I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night, but I'm too busy using String Theory to tie quantum physics and general relativity
together. Probably be finished in a couple hours, so maybe I'll revisit the foam thing.


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____



ExWrench 01-25-2018 06:45 PM
Ahhh, I got yer' sciencin' rot heeyah, hoss . . .
One other function of the foam, then I'll quit fucking up your build thread :thefinger:
If you fill dead spaces correctly with foam, those spaces won't accumulate condensation.
(condensation slowly converts a "tin shitbox" into a "rusty tin shitbox" :laughing: )
EDIT: :nono: I forgot to type the word "potential" before the word "function" above :homersimpson:



__________________________________________________ _________________________________________________
gt1guy 01-25-2018 08:08 PM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4356018)
One other function of the foam, then I'll quit fucking up your build thread :thefinger:
If you fill dead spaces correctly with foam, those spaces won't accumulate condensation.
(condensation slowly converts a "tin shitbox" into a "rusty tin shitbox" :laughing: )


I'd say they missed the "filling spaces correctly" memo. Foam never made a seal in the rocker. Maybe it's not supposed to, I don't know. I do know if that
rocker was full of the right kind of foam, it'd be harder to smash.
DSC08974.jpg





__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________________________


Biginboca 01-27-2018 05:02 PM


That foam is for added boyancy.
That foam alongside with a pair of stock bumpers and one fully inflated 29” spare tire give the JK
it’s unlimited fording depth


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++
gt1guy
01-27-2018 10:22 PM

Sad part is, that foam (which we don't really even know the exact reason for it's installation) is
probably a 80k a year/full union benefits job for some dolt to squirt in there poorly.



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________________-
gt1guy
01-28-2018 05:06 PM


See anything new?
DSC08987.jpg




My plan for the rear body mounts will work out better than I thought.
DSC08990.jpg

And yes, that's the factory bracket I cut out of the old frame.
DSC08992.jpg

DSC08993.jpg

The brackets still need to be cleaned up a bit for a better fit and can't be put on permanently
until the frame is welded out and plated. But the plan is solid.
I'll have to blow a hole in the top so I can get the body bolt in and reinforce the whole area a
bit.
DSC09000.jpg


Added a couple temp x-members so I could pull both frame rails out together. Now it's time to weldand plate the frame.





DSC09003.jpg



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________


tapcola
01-28-2018 05:38 PM
No words!
 
Last edited:
jhubright


Awesome job! I can't wait to see it welded on.

Question: What is your plan to paint your frame? (powder coat, spray cans?) Will you be painting
it?
Just wondering... Thanks!


/-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dkjeep
01-29-2018 09:33 AM
Since you havent got to the exhaust yet. Kooks dropped their new long tubes for JK / LS swaps.
Rpmextreme has a set and is doing dyno runs now.



___________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
01-29-2018 10:21 AM

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4357130)
No words!

Thank you Sir.



Originally Posted by jhubright (Post 4357329)
Awesome job! I can't wait to see it welded on.
Question: What is your plan to paint your frame? (powder coat, spray cans?) Will you be painting
it?
Just wondering... Thanks!


Thank you.
Gibbs oil on the bare metal, then Rustoleum Professional primer and paint over the Gibbs. I used
that rustoleum on my workbenches and it's tough stuff. Plus I just roll it on.


Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4357433)
Since you havent got to the exhaust yet. Kooks dropped their new long tubes for JK / LS swaps.
Rpmextreme has a set and is doing dyno runs now.



I'll need to check those out and see how the primaries are run. The Sanderson's don't fit due to
the engine set back. They don't miss by much.

I tried to get some dimensions for a few different sets of Hookers. Folks at Hooker said they don't
give out dimensions, but if they don't fit, I can return as many sets as it takes. Haven't tested
that yet.



____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy
02-25-2018 11:39 AM
Just got home from a job in Texas and had these little fellas waiting for me from Marcus.

JW Speaker Model 6130 Evolution. 4.75" diameter, high/low beam. They aren't quite as bright as the
7" 8700's folks are replacing the stockers with, but they fit the space I have to put them in.


DSC09023.jpg

DSC09018.jpg

DSC09024.jpg

So once I get a grill made that doesn't look like hammered dog shit, I'll be good to go. I also
have a pair of the 1" turn signal/running lights. Have a buddy with them and they're bright as
hell.


_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy
02-25-2018 12:08 PM
Rear frame section went in for the last time.
DSC09025.jpg

I stuck on the short pieces of 2x4 to the front of it so I could get some plug welds through the
existing frame. It was nice of Jeep to pre-install the holes in the factory frame.

DSC09029.jpg

Final position, it's part of the rest of the frame now. Not going to do the fish plating of the
front portion to the existing frame until I pull the body.
DSC09035.jpg

DSC09032.jpg

Ended up 4.5" narrower on the outside of the rails than the factory frame. That's a bit over a
whole frame width inboard per side. It's 4" taller over the axle and
kicks up way sooner to clear the LCA's.



DSC09031.jpg

DSC09034.jpg



____________________________________________________________________________________________________-
tapcola
02-26-2018 04:47 AM
ITS STILL A JK! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


_____________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
02-26-2018 10:37 AM

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4371809)
ITS STILL A JK! ����������

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Just need the right perspective.:grin2:
DSC09049.jpg






_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
KOWBOY
02-27-2018 03:37 AM

Sorry if'n I missed it in your thread, but is this rig intended for any street use?
Carry on ... fine job.


______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
02-27-2018 04:51 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4372353)
Sorry if'n I missed it in your thread, but is this rig intended for any street use?
Carry on ... fine job.

Thank you.
Yes Sir, I fully intend to dive it on the street. As long as the tires balance with 20oz of .20gr airsoft BB's in them, I'm good to go. I don't have to deal with any
of the silly laws most states do. No smog, simple inspection, never head of anyone getting a ticket for tires sticking out.
We'll have to wait and see what the Jeep has to say about it.
 
KOWBOY
02-27-2018 05:52 AM

Most excellent. Vehicle laws suck ... one of the big reasons I moved to Wyomin'.

Lil' brutal drivin' on pavement in the rain. Tires throw up so much water it's hard to see. And
REALLY sucks for the fella behind ya. We get our junk runnin', sure be fun to do a bar-hoppin'
roadtrip with ya. Reckon that'd draw a crowd.
So hurry the fuck up ev'ry chance ya get. :grin2:


___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
02-28-2018 07:21 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4372481)
Most excellent. Vehicle laws suck ... one of the big reasons I moved to Wyomin'.
Lil' brutal drivin' on pavement in the rain. Tires throw up so much water it's hard to see. And
REALLY sucks for the fella behind ya.
We get our junk runnin', sure be fun to do a bar-hoppin' roadtrip with ya. Reckon that'd draw a
crowd.
So hurry the fuck up ev'ry chance ya get. :grin2:


That sounds good to me and would truly be awesome.
If I build flares as wide as the Bushwackers that were on it, they should cover half of the tires.
I'll take half, I'm not greedy.


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy
02-28-2018 08:52 PM

Added some reinforcement to where the new outboard rear body mount goes. Pretty sure that area is
already two layers thick, but I added another skin of 16ga. to it.
DSC09059.jpg





DSC09061.jpg

Put some plug weld holes in it, then stuck everything together and tacked it into place. Instantly
proceeded to blow a big ol hole through the sheet metal because some idiot forgot to turn his
machine down after welding the bracket to the frame.:thankyou:

DSC09063.jpg


Reused the big ass, thick factory washer from the bottom of the original rear mount. Had to beat it
through the hole I cut with a hammer, but at least it has a good size footprint.
DSC09072.jpg

DSC09068.jpg

I think I might have mentioned it before but, that is the factory body mount bracket I cut out of
the stock frame. I wish there was more crap I could reuse.




_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy
03-01-2018 11:33 AM

Question for everyone and hopefully someone can point me in a direction I'm not aware of.

I'm running the Solid Axle 40spline spindles F&R. On the front spindles, I have the inner axle
bushings that Solid makes, and that seems to be all that anyone runs. They don't run the needle
bearings with a seal due to the larger ID of the spindle and OD of the axles themselves.
Id like to find a seal of some sort to run before the bushing. Here's a couple pic to show what I'm
working with.
201...45_resized.jpg

201...27_resized.jpg

And some numbers added. The numbers associated with the red arrows are where the bushings go. I'd
like to find a seal that will work where the yellow arrows point. OD of the 40spline axle is
1.708"ish.

998.jpg


Can anyone throw a name out there where I might be able to source a seal? Seals-it said they didn't
have anything.


________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
TurboRev
03-07-2018 10:15 AM
Awesome, this is nuts! :glasses:

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy

Originally Posted by TurboRev (Post 4377129)
Awesome, this is nuts! :glasses:


Thank you Sir.
Slowly but surly it's coming together.
Working on the rear corners now.


____________________________________________________________________________________
ExWrench 03-08-2018 09:41 PM
[Shaolin monk voice]
Most honorable Kevin of Loo-Ii-Zyana,
EDIT: make that "Liu-Zi-Yana" (my Chinese ain't too good :laughing: )
Your garage-fu is strong, stronger than a mighty ox that has been
drinking tea made with both rhinoceros horn and tiger penis
[/Shaolin monk voice]


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4373633)
Question for everyone and hopefully someone can point me in a direction I'm
not aware of.
I'm running the Solid Axle 40spline spindles F&R. On the front spindles, I have the inner axle bushings that Solid makes, and that seems to be all that
anyone runs. They don't run the needle bearings with a seal due to the larger ID of the spindle and OD of the axles themselves.
Id like to find a seal of some sort to run before the bushing.
Here's a couple pic to show what I'm working with.
And some numbers added. The numbers associated with the red arrows are where the bushings go. I'd like to find a seal that will work where the yellow
arrows point. OD of the 40spline axle is 1.708"ish.
https://s19.postimg.org/o4yxcpn0z/998.jpg

I searched, and tried to be your hero, but the Narnia General Store was fresh out of Unicorn Chow :thefinger:
If you find a seal w/ good ID and thickness, turning a bushing to match the seal OD to the 3.375" is a cake-walk.
If nothing turns up, you could mill the thickness, ID and OD into a sheet of 1/4" UHMW PE.
Self-lubricating and abrasion resistant (but not a lip seal) - sorry if too "farmer fab" for you :dunno:



__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 03-09-2018 12:06 PM


Why thank you oh Wise One.

I spent another hour on the phone with one Mr. John Heydenreich from Seals-It. Sent a few pictures and really dug down to what I was looking to achieve.
Ended up getting a couple of his (3"od with a 1.25" hole, was told will easily stretch to 1.72") firewall grommets. The rubber used in the grommets is the exact
same stuff used in their inner axle seals, so it won't get screwed up with an axle spinning in it.
I'll have to add 4 small blind tapped holes to the face of the spindle to mount them. Figure a little dab of rtv on the flange when I screw them on should keep
mud, dust and "most" water out. That's all I'm really after.

http://sealsit.com/wp-content/upload...9134006460.png

Edit: just walked outside and they've been delivered.


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 03-09-2018 09:44 PM

Got the corners all squared away. Had to trim a bit. Really happy with the shape of the opening. It's not just one continuous arc, or all boxy.


DSC09105.jpg

Only ended up nicking a little off the spyder. Not exactly centered anymore either.:D
DSC09083.jpg



Will be able to retain the stock fuel fill door too. That's a big one for me.
DSC09081.jpg

Rolling on rustoleum professional primer and flat black paint. The stuff is tough on my work benches, figured it should be good for armor. When it gets screwed
up, I'll roll more on. Roller gives it a slight texture.
DSC09092.jpg




Now that the rear of the tub is sitting back on body mounts again and things don't want to flop around, I broke ground on the cage.



DSC09154.jpg

DSC09144.jpg

To give credit where it's due. I'm copying what TNT did on Rex, with regards to removing the old tube in the B-pillar and replacing it with real cage tube.
Was surprised to see that the factory tube just ends at the bottom of the B-pillar. It literally just stops.
DSC09159.jpg




___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
KOWBOY 03-10-2018 05:38 AM


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4378489)
Will be able to retain the stock fuel fill door too ...


That'll make 'er look like a JK for damned sure. :grin2:
Corners look great sir ... carry on.


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 03-10-2018 09:02 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4378577)
That'll make 'er look like a JK for damned sure. :grin2:
Corners look great sir ... carry on.

Yep, probably be hard to tell it from a stock JK when it's finished. :thefinger:




____________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 03-10-2018 11:58 AM
We have rolled on paint failure. :mad:
Not sure what happened, the primer dried just fine, the black, not so much. It's still tacky. Both were unopened gallon cans, maybe a year or so old.
Maybe this is a sign that using a roller was just too getto.........I'll give it a couple days to see if it ever cures. Though it will defiantly have to get redone at
some point.


___________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 03-11-2018 05:44 PM


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4378801)
We have rolled on paint failure. :mad:
Not sure what happened, the primer dried just fine, the black, not so much. It's still tacky. Both were unopened gallon cans, maybe a year or so old.
Maybe this is a sign that using a roller was just too getto.........I'll give it a couple days to see if it ever cures. Though it will defiantly have to get redone
at some point.


Paint seems to be drying, just taking it's sweet fucking time.



_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
Got a hollowed out B-Pillar now.
DSC09177.jpg

The actual tube that goes in there is only held in place at three points.
Two spots here, where the rear door hinges are...
DSC09184.jpg

And one spot up towards the top.
DSC09185.jpg

There is nothing holding it in place below the lower rear door hinge. Got to say, I found that a little strange.
Here's going to be the fun part. In the below pic you can see the lower nutcert for the rocker armor and below that is the pinch seam. If I drop a piece of 2"
tube down, it wants to straddle the pinch seam, just barely touching the nutcert. Waaaay too far outboard to have the tube exit the tub.
So, I need to kick the bottom of the tube inboard so it misses the pinch seam. At the same time, I need it to also kick rearward slightly to avoid the body mount
that's lurking under there too.
DSC09181.jpg

gt1guy 03-12-2018 05:44 PM
Turned out to be relatively easy to miss the pinch seam.
DSC09195.jpg

And it will miss the body mount. There will be a bit of it showing at the bottom when the inside skin is put back on.
DSC09199.jpg

DSC09198.jpg

And then UPS showed up with another factory 4x4 trans adapter I picked up. So changed gears so I can bolt up the Hero to the trans.
DSC09202.jpg

Got a factory x-mamber in the way.
DSC09201.jpg



While burning it out, I managed to get slag between my watch and my flesh. That's worse than down the glove, at least the glove you can fling across the shop.
Watch just wiggles.


Aftermath.
DSC09208.jpg



It stinks. Way past burning hair smell.


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
tapcola 03-13-2018 01:54 PM
I think you have finally voided the warranty!
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


___________________________________________________________________________
Treader 03-13-2018 01:59 PM
Ouch! Nothing like burning the hell out of your flesh.


__________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 03-13-2018 10:46 PM

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4380570)
I think you have finally voided the warranty!


Mine or the Jeeps?:thefinger:




Originally Posted by Treader (Post 4380586)
Ouch! Nothing like burning the hell out of your flesh.



Funny thing is, it never hurt. Still doesn't. I just scrubbed all the dead skin off and slathered Silvadene on it. I swear by that stuff on good burns.


Got a good head scratcher today. The Hero wouldn't bolt up to the new adapter. Bolt spacing is off by just a tad. I know it fit the adapter that I took off the
trans. I double checked the VIN for the trans to the PN for the adapter I just bought.................it's a match. Odd for sure.

Dookey ,How's the super badass adapter coming?


____________________________________________________________________________________________________________-


HUNTER
03-14-2018 07:49 AM

Never understood why guys tied into the factory bar with all crazy supports when at the end of the day, its just going to rip out of the bodywork like tissue
paper.

I went farther inboard so the outriggers were not too long.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________



gt1guy 03-14-2018 09:16 AM

Originally Posted by HUNTER (Post 4380834)
I went farther inboard so the outriggers were not too long.


You're picture isn't working.


________________________________________________________________________________________
j3ff3ry_j33p 03-14-2018 12:30 PM
once everythings back together you should really customize it and do the turn blinker mod!
:thefinger:
:jeep2:

______________________________________________________________________________
MAC7 03-14-2018 03:02 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4380874)
You're picture isn't working.

I can’t get any pic you’ve loaded to work on Tapatalk. Not sure if it’s mine or what. I’ll pull it up in the computer and see what’s up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 03-14-2018 03:22 PM

Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p (Post 4381058)
once everythings back together you should really customize it and do the turn blinker mod!
:thefinger:
:jeep2:


Just penciled it on the list. :thefinger:



riginally Posted by MAC7 (Post 4381130)
I can’t get any pic you’ve loaded to work on Tapatalk. Not sure if it’s mine or what. I’ll pull it up in the computer and see what’s up.


I'm using postimage.org for the pictures.

When I started the tread a couple people had problems seeing them. This was one response.
Quote:
Just checked on the mobile site and I can see them. Must be a Tapatalk thing.

Don't know if that helps. I only use my laptop.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

DOOKEY 03-14-2018 05:22 PM


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4380754)
Dookey ,How's the super badass adapter coming?


Do you like swiss cheese? Cause there's a bunch of holes in it. :smile2:


_____________________________________________________________________

DOOKEY 03-14-2018 05:23 PM
PS... aloe vera for the burn and aquaphor to help it heal. :)


__________________________________________________________________________________________
 
gt1guy
03-14-2018 07:50 PM

Originally Posted by DOOKEY (Post 4381210)
Do you like swiss cheese? Cause there's a bunch of holes in it. :smile2:


I'm going to take that as AWESOME!



Originally Posted by DOOKEY (Post 4381218)
PS... aloe vera for the burn and aquaphor to help it heal. :)


Aquaphor, never heard of it. I'll check it out.


____________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy
03-14-2018 08:19 PM

Originally Posted by DOOKEY (Post 4381210)
Do you like swiss cheese? Cause there's a bunch of holes in it. :smile2:


I figured quoting this is pretty much the story of this build.


New hole is stuffed with awesomeness.

DSC09248.jpg

DSC09213.jpg

DSC09218.jpg






________________________________________________________________________________________________________
03-14-2018 08:41 PM
Had to run a drill through the new adapter I bought before the Hero would bolt up. Kind of a pain
in the ass, but it did solve the confusion of the correct parts not fitting together.
Will still need more sheet metal adjusting to make the shifters happy.


DSC09227.jpg

Still good on the flat belly.


DSC09228.jpg

DSC09230.jpg

Front and rear lowers are each within a few inches of being even with the F&R outputs.
DSC09225.jpg

I will still have to make both x-members removable once the body is off. There's no way the trans would ever come out, it's pretty much locked in place the way
things are.
I won't be installing a mount on the trans. The mount will be at the back of the Hero to the rear x-member.



________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 03-15-2018 09:57 AM
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p (Post 4381482)
I think you’ve hit upon the rig’s name :
New Hole JK?

Originally Posted by Clint_Hemi (Post 4381490)
Maybe "Holy JK" is better.


Negative.



I'm sure once it's up and running, I'll call it (or myself) all kinds of names as I find things I forgot to tighten, connect, plug together, add fluid to, torque to
spec, use lock nuts on, use locktite on, grease, keep away from hot things, wrap, paint, remove sharp edges from, or just plane forgot to do.

Hell, when I pull out of my driveway and it shuts down after ten feet, that could be 50 different things I fucked up on.

It's going to be fun to break in a half dozen things all at the same time.

It will be called, "You've got to be kidding me!":thefinger:



__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
ExWrench 03-15-2018 10:17 PM
But, in between ironing out the first 237 kinks and discovering the next 53, it's going to plaster a shit-eating grin on your face :rockon:
. . . and you'll call it your new favorite place to burn a hundred bucks' worth of super unleaded :devil:
:idea: - maybe you can write your gas off as "entertainment expense" :laughing:



===============================================-=====================================-===============================
gt1guy 03-16-2018 09:03 AM



Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4381786)
But, in between ironing out the first 237 kinks and discovering the next 53, it's going to plaster a shit-eating grin on your face :rockon:
. . . and you'll call it your new favorite place to burn a hundred bucks' worth of super unleaded :devil:
:idea: - maybe you can write your gas off as "entertainment expense" :laughing:



God I hope so.


I have a cane field across the street I can use to find all the loose stuff. It's like a mile of breaking bumps.


______________________________________________________________

gt1guy 03-24-2018 09:05 PM

Still looks like a Jeep to me.:thefinger:

DSC09314.jpg

DSC09316.jpg

DSC09298.jpg

Put the doors and top back on to see if my placement of the hoop inside the B-pillar was going to work. Bottom of the hoop is just above the top of the
rectangular piece that the sound bar attached to. Top of the hoop is just a tad higher than the bows for the soft top. I also made the hoop as wide as I could
possibly fit, to keep it away from my melon. That was my reason for the sanity check.
I think I pulled it off. Top fits perfect, doors shut like they should, and I have more room around my head.
DSC09279.jpg

DSC09307.jpg

DSC09303.jpg

DSC09301.jpg

DSC09312.jpg

No gonna lie, this was a pain in the ass to do. I literally had to make the hoop from the floor up, in two mirrored pieces. The bottom kickers that run through
the floor are also separate pieces. Everything connects together with 1.75" DOM inside the 2"DOM with 6" overlap on each side of the joint. From there it all got
assembled in place and tacked.
Here's one of the bottom kicker joints. You can see the plug weld holes and the bevel and gap at the joint itself. The 1.75" inside will act as the backing for the
open gap so I'll get a full thickness weld of all three pieces.
DSC09284.jpg




Mid point hoop joint.

DSC09282.jpg



At least now that I know it'll work, I can slide the hoop down through the floor to weld it out.

Got the inspector coming over tomorrow to give his blessing, or burn it to the ground.:D



KOWBOY 03-25-2018 06:20 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4387258)
Got the inspector coming over tomorrow to give his blessing, or burn it to the ground.:D



Gonna have to get shed of them back doors if'n ya ever want me to say it looks like a jeep. :thefinger:
Got the beer iced down in the comp'ny truck and should be there right 'round noonday sir. :glasses:



_____________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 03-25-2018 08:38 AM


Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4387386)
Gonna have to get shed of them back doors if'n ya ever want me to say it looks like a jeep. :thefinger:
Got the beer iced down in the comp'ny truck and should be there right 'round noonday sir. :glasses:


Well, when I pull over the curb and park half way in the bushes, like I generally do at the mall when fighting for the good spots, the rear doors make getting
in/out much easier. See, those extra doors come in handy.

Sounds good. I'm even up before noon today.


__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy 03-25-2018 10:20 PM

Inspector came by, went over everything with a fine tooth comb. Recommended a big life insurance policy.:thefinger: He was very quick, hard to catch on
camera.

DSC09318.jpg

DSC09319.jpg

DSC09320.jpg



Then I dropped the first B hoop through the floor and welded it out.


DSC09331.jpg

Before hitting it with the flapper wheel.
DSC09330.jpg

Even got the copes ready for the frame tie-ins.
DSC09334.jpg


The rest of the tube work inside the tub should be much easier to assemble than this first hoop. Not really looking forward to the bars running through the
firewall though.

Though it would be a lot easier if I dumped the idea of using the factory dash.

Decisions decisions.



___________________________________________________________________________________________________________

terrahawk 03-26-2018 06:13 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4387818)
Inspector came by, went over everything with a fine tooth comb. Recommended a big life insurance policy.:thefinger: He was very quick, hard to catch
on camera.


Should have given him more bourbon!>:)



______________________________________________________________________________--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

gt1guy 03-26-2018 08:58 AM


Originally Posted by terrahawk (Post 4387930)
Should have given him more bourbon!>:)


He's a Coors man. That's actually Kowboy. Got to say it was awesome to meet someone from JKO. That was a first for me and I hope I get to meet more of you
folks.
Hell of a cool guy. Could have easily spent the whole day shooting the shit.


Edit:
Except the son of a bitch really has me thinking of tossing all the factory wiring and running a set up like he's doing.





__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
ALASHA 03-26-2018 10:00 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4388090)
Edit:
Except the son of a bitch really has me thinking of tossing all the factory wiring and running a set up like he's doing.


At the point that your Jeep is at, that is probably what I would do...



___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
KOWBOY 03-26-2018 06:55 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4387818)
Inspector came by, went over everything with a fine tooth comb. Recommended a big life insurance policy.:thefinger: He was very quick, hard to catch
on camera.


It's damned disappointin' that listenin' is becomin' such a lost art ...
What I actu'ly said sir was that weren't no use a'tall in you takin' out no life insurance policy since you're gonna be long dead 'fore this fuckin' project is done.
:thefinger:
 
Originally Posted by terrahawk (Post 4387930)
Should have given him more bourbon!>:)


See below comments closely sir for drinkin' preference ... since your rig might be next up on the inspection tour.


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4388090)
He's a Coors man. That's actually Kowboy. Got to say it was awesome to meet someone from JKO. That was a first for me and I hope I get to meet more
of you folks.
Hell of a cool guy. Could have easily spent the whole day shooting the shit.


Funny how a fella can be on one of these here forums for a good while and start developin' a sense of the spirit of another fella postin' up on the same forum.
Based on nuthin' but what the fella says ... and when he says it ... and how he says it. After a while, ya start to thinkin' that the fella might just be somebody
that would be cool to meet up with and have a few beers and swap some lies.

Boy was I fuckin' wrong!! :thefinger::thefinger:
No really .... I give two thumbs up to both Kevin and his silly 4-door jeep. :smokin:

For a man over a thousand miles from home and in the middle of yet another hitch at work ... this was a fuckin' phenomenal way for me to spend the afternoon
and I'm much obliged ... please don't doubt that for a minute.


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4388090)
Except the son of a bitch really has me thinking of tossing all the factory wiring and running a set up like he's doing.

If you need me to drive back over and tell ya yet another dozen or so times ... just let me know. :grin2:


_______________________________________________________________________________________________________

terrahawk 03-26-2018 08:39 PM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4388650)
See below comments closely sir for drinkin' preference ... since your rig might be next up on the inspection tour.


Anytime sir, we've got plenty of that imported rocky mountain brew down in these parts.:beer:


_____________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 03-27-2018 10:21 AM


Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4388186)
At the point that your Jeep is at, that is probably what I would do...


I agree it would definitely be the smart move to do it now, though it was always in my head as phase II. My thinking was that the fabrication and electrical were
two monumental jobs I wanted to keep separate.

When I think about it now, hell, all the wiring is already out and everything except the dash was going to need to be rewired because it's all different. So it
really is starting to not make sense to not do it now.

Here's the kicker. When I pulled the Jeep into the shop to start the build, it already had a couple issues. First was that every time I'd start it and take off,
random wheels would apply the brakes for about the first 40 feet, then all was good. Also, it always thought the key was in the ignition, not a problem when the
doors were off, but with the doors on, it was a stupid process to lock the Jeep while listening to the door chime the whole time.

Should have seen the look I got from Kowboy when I told him that little tidbit.:nono:

I've started my cage working from the B-pillar back. So I have until I get to the B-pillar forward to make the call on whether the factory dash stays or goes.
I do like the idea of no dash in the way of doing the cage at the firewall.



_______________________________________________________________________________________________________-------------------------
gt1guy 03-27-2018 10:24 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4388650)
It's damned disappointin' that listenin' is becomin' such a lost art ...
What I actu'ly said sir was that weren't no use a'tall in you takin' out no life insurance policy since you're gonna be long dead 'fore this fuckin' project is
done. :thefinger:



That might not be a lie.:thefinger:



______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

jhubright 03-28-2018 05:21 AM

Jeep name
I think you should call her "Envy" because a lot of Jeepers on here envy this build. This is one
sweet build. Thanks for putting all the time in to post your progression!
Sometimes posting takes longer than the build. lol I'll be following you to the end. Great
work!:rockon:


______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-
gt1guy
03-28-2018 10:49 AM

Originally Posted by jhubright (Post 4389658)
I think you should call her "Envy" because a lot of Jeepers on here envy this build. This is one
sweet build. Thanks for putting all the time in to post your progression!
Sometimes posting takes longer than the build. lol I'll be following you to the end. Great
work!:rockon:


Thank you Sir. It does take a bit of time to to post updates but, I like the exchanging of ideas
that you get here, so it's more than worth it. I can't tell you how many things I've done, or not
done, or did differently due to ideas from someone here. I think that's awesome.

No name. It's just another Jeep.


_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
03-29-2018 10:19 AM

Want to know what really sucks? I'll tell ya.

Using a 2" hole saw that is only 1.5" deep. Can't even do a 90* cope without rotating the piece
180* and finishing the cut. That......fucking......blows.

That's with the Lenox hole saws from Lowes. I found some Starret hole saws that are 2" deep on the
internet last night (were actually discounted to $7) so I ordered a couple.
Aslo found some 4" deep ones, used for hot-taps, but the company wanted almost $350. That kind of
made me feel a little better about rotating the pieces 180*.



________________________________________________________________________________________________________
thedirtman
03-29-2018 10:40 AM

I find a 4" grinder with flap wheels works well for compound notching of tube. I have a JD2 notcher as well and find myself using the grinder more and
more as it is faster.



________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


Hell, I was just trying to make 4 little 6" pieces to put between the top of the two B-pillars. Single 90* notch at each end, nothing fancy. Turned into having to
set up for a cut 16 times.
I too have a JD2 notcher.
I'm sure I'll be really good at making copes with the grinder before I'm finished. :D Maybe. Last time I built a cage and had to cope with the grinder, the welder
part of me was pissed at the fitter part of me.

________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 03-31-2018 11:44 AM
Better picture of the extra height I was able to raise the front B-pillar and still have the soft top fit. Will not need to use the bows for the top anymore, cage will
be the bows.
DSC09346.jpg

Got my portable machine center up and running.:thefinger:
DSC09371.jpg

Second B is in.
DSC09374.jpg

X-Brace and harness bar can now be straight.
DSC09376.jpg

Going with a bench seat in the rear. 42" wide, so quite a bit narrower than the stock seat.
DSC09381.jpg

Always hated the fact that with the seat up, you couldn't really reach anything behind it if you were standing at the door. Not a problem now.


Added benefit is you won't be sharing the same space as a fully stuffed tire.:D
DSC09377.jpg

Now my issue. I wanted to run a C-pillar hoop directly inboard of the rear door surround. No way to put an X in there with the seat sticking back so far. So I'm
thinking of running the hoop parallel with the seat back and just run a kicker straight up at the surround. Strength wise, I don't see any problem going that
route, just not sure I like the "look" of it.
Rear upper shock mounts will come off the rear of the C.
DSC09383.jpg

That C-channel that's holding the seatback up is moved forward about an inch in the picture, from where it was depicting where the forward most tab for the
shock mounts go.
Random pic.
DSC09391.jpg




________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Rodjk 03-31-2018 02:57 PM
Man's got some serious skills to pull this off. Good stuff Kevin. Crazy build and totally digging it!


____________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 03-31-2018 05:01 PM

Originally Posted by Rodjk (Post 4391441)
Man's got some serious skills to pull this off. Good stuff Kevin. Crazy build and totally digging it!


Thank you Sir.


_________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy 03-31-2018 05:51 PM


Bent up a C-pillar.
DSC09405.jpg

DSC09392.jpg

DSC09396.jpg



DSC09395.jpg

Seems like it will achieve all I need it to do. Certainly doesn't look like I'll need a kicker running up behind the door surround. Have plenty of room for the
coilover that will be near it.
Vertical parts of it are inline with the second B-pillars too.
DSC09399.jpg





_____________________________________________________________________________________________________


BlackOps82 03-31-2018 06:36 PM
I love this build!!! I did the opposite of you! Dirtman told me I was crazy and should just build a buggy so I started too!!!
https://i.imgur.com/D9BJVWd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8EeFOAA.jpg



________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 03-31-2018 08:32 PM


Oh, hell no. You can't drop those two pics without spilling the beans.

What are your plans for it?

Looks like great start.

Body no body?

See what listening to thedirtman gets you, about a million pieces to cope and fit.:thefinger:

Generally, doing the opposite of anything I do is the smarter path.



___________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
BlackOps82 03-31-2018 09:20 PM
Well since I had a jku and made some dents in it and still was paying on it I figured something that wasn’t limited to a restricted area to build on. So I picked
up an 1983 scrambler tub and the wheelbase will be set around 116-118 22” belly clearance on 42’ mtrs using my superduty axles I had for my jk and also
using a cammed 392 hemi I built for my jk and a built 545RFE enough space for the family to camping in and be comfortable and different then most built
crawlers.



__________________________________________________ _________________________________


gt1guy 03-31-2018 10:52 PM
That sounds bad ass.
Taking a sazall to something you're making payments on would be hard to do.



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________

BlackOps82
03-31-2018 11:12 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4391497)
That sounds bad ass.
Taking a sazall to something you're making payments on would be hard to do.

I wasn't to worried but many people have done it not as far as you are and the few others but how
many built Scramblers do you know of??!! I'm making my own aluminum fuel cell using that holley
hydramat and couple other tabbed things to hopefully make it stand out.. full hydro steering.. I
have all my trusses in gears and arb's.. gunna start getting them welded up and waiting on some
link tabs to show up that ballistic had on sale! then bring the body over from the inlaws and set
it and fab up motor mounts and trans mount.. then more tube work up front for the grille and hood
area tie that into a cage.. exhaust work you name it.. t case is still undecided have been talking
to the guy at bahemoth for his aluminum np205 case. But a long way to go.. been welding up jk axles
for customers to save up for coilovers! I did cut up a jk winch plate and made it suit my own
needs!
https://i.imgur.com/69yLG1t.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Jb1nGce.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jaNQbxS.jpg https://i.imgur.com/62OLdUc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s0Yzyan.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Bk2txr6.jpg




__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __
KOWBOY
04-01-2018 05:42 AM

Meanwhile ... back to the blue jeep ... lovin' the twin B's Kevin. :grin2:
Got a pic of the dash ripped out yet?


__________________________________________________ _____________________________________
gt1guy
04-01-2018 10:53 AM
Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4391521)
Meanwhile ... back to the blue jeep ...
lovin' the twin B's Kevin. :grin2:
Got a pic of the dash ripped out yet?



Maybe soon.:surprise:

I keep thinking of how easy it would be to do proper A-pillar bracing without it in the way. And obviously with a much simpler wiring
system.

I need to get the C-pillar locked in place. Then I need to make sure I can get the two brackets for the soft top back in their proper location. That's why I still
have what's left of the stock stuff still there. After that, the next step is to see if I can run one piece for the A all the way back to the rear of the C. My thinking
is if I can just take a bite out of the tube instead of a full cope where the B's and C are, it will be one continual smooth surface to drag on shit.
Running the A's that way, instead of as a hoop, should allow me to get tube much higher in the upper corners of the windshield. My 2" dies are 6.5"CLR so it's a
pretty long bend. The A,B,C route doesn't need a 90* at the top, the A hoop would.
So ya, that's the long version of, "dash will be gone soon".:thefinger:



__________________________________________________
gt1guy 04-01-2018 10:55 AM
Originally Posted by BlackOps82 (Post 4391498)
I wasn't to worried but many people have done it not as far as you are and the few others but how many built Scramblers do you know of??!! I'm making
my own aluminum fuel cell using that holley hydramat and couple other tabbed things to hopefully make it stand out.. full hydro steering.. I have all my
trusses in gears and arb's.. gunna start getting them welded up and waiting on some link tabs to show up that ballistic had on sale! then bring the body
over from the inlaws and set it and fab up motor mounts and trans mount.. then more tube work up front for the grille and hood area tie that into a
cage.. exhaust work you name it.. t case is still undecided have been talking to the guy at bahemoth for his aluminum np205 case. But a long way to go..
been welding up jk axles for customers to save up for coilovers! I did cut up a jk winch plate and made it suit my own needs!


So it will still be a Jeep. We're in the same boat!





__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________________


BlackOps82 04-01-2018 02:58 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4391618)
So it will still be a Jeep. We're in the same boat!


Yes it will be....!!!!


__________________________________________________ _______

gt1guy 04-01-2018 11:39 PM
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4391610)
After that, the next step is to see if I can run one piece for the A all the way back to the rear of the C.


Um, no, that ain't happening. It would have be a perfectly straight shot, and I'm still not quite sure how I pulled that off. But, after starring at it for an hour, it
really seemed like it was going to put the soft top too high on the sides and get in the way of the hardware for the top. Wasn't willing to blow a stick of tube to
find out the hard way, so I shelved that idea. If I get hung up on a bit of the cage, I have 525 horses to drag me through making all kinds of hideous sounds.
So, A-B, B-C, C-frame it is.


First off, pull the dash back out.


A-B.
DSC09475.jpg
​​
DSC09481.jpg
​​
That's as tight as I could get it.
DSC09483.jpg
​​
DSC09463.jpg
​​
DSC09455.jpg
​​
Front of the soft top should just sit off the tube.
DSC09487.jpg
​​
Funny part is, it took less time to bend the tube than it did to trim the door surround. The whole c-clamp part of it had to be removed, then a little more.


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __

ALASHA 04-02-2018 06:53 AM

Originally Posted by BlackOps82 (Post 4391481)
I love this build!!! I did the opposite of you! Dirtman told me I was crazy and should just build a buggy so I started too!!!


Is that a wide open design chassis?


__________________________________________________ _________________________________________

terrahawk 04-02-2018 07:18 AM
Looking good dude, will have to try and stop by next time I do a tour in Geismar.


__________________________________________________ __________________________
gt1guy 04-02-2018 08:51 AM

Originally Posted by terrahawk (Post 4391946)
Looking good dude, will have to try and stop by next time I do a tour in Geismar.


Thank you Sir. Hell ya, come on by.


__________________________________________________ _

BlackOps82 04-04-2018 05:17 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4391914)
Is that a wide open design chassis?


Started out as one.. had to modify the back end for length and fuel cell and make mopar driveline mounting.




__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ______________

gt1guy 04-04-2018 10:45 PM
A little more progress on the cage.
DSC09495.jpg
​​
DSC09493.jpg
​​
DSC09498.jpg

Got some temp tabs holding the C in place.
DSC09500.jpg






I've found out a few things about doing the LS stand alone. First is, running just stand alone, E38
ECU and the TCU in the trans, cruise control isn't an option. If I want it, I'll need to get a
cruise control module from Dakota Digital. That gizmo takes a vss signal, a brake switch signal and
ties into the wiring for the gas peddle. So I guess the DD box sends the signal to the ECU for the
speed through the gas peddle wiring. Normally this is controlled by the BCM.
 
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______________
ALASHA
04-05-2018 06:41 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4393185)
I've found out a few things about doing the LS stand alone. First is, running just stand alone, E38
ECU and the TCU in the trans, cruise control isn't an option. If I want it, I'll need to get a
cruise control module from Dakota Digital. That gizmo takes a vss signal, a brake switch signal and
ties into the wiring for the gas peddle. So I guess the DD box sends the signal to the ECU for the
speed through the gas peddle wiring. Normally this is controlled by the BCM.

Have you decided to go full stand alone?


__________________________________________________ ___________________________________________
gt1guy
04-05-2018 01:01 PM


Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4393249)
Have you decided to go full stand alone?


Yes I have. Just ordered the stand alone engine harness from PSI. I'm committed now. The more I
think about it, the happier I'm am with the decision.

$970.00 shipped to my door. That's also with $125 for braided covering instead of plastic split
sleeve and $100 for an all metal GM corvette accel peddle.

The peddle I had bought for the RPM swap kit was going to be an issue due to it's shape and being
all plastic, there's no modifying it. This new peddle is a straight shot from mount to peddle, so
it should work better for my situation.

Will still need the Dakota Digital cruise control module. It's actually what PSI recommended. Tap
shift is wired into the harness. Chassis harness will come from Painless.


__________________________________________________ _________________________________________________
tapcola
04-05-2018 01:22 PM
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4393370)
Yes I have. Just ordered the stand alone engine harness from PSI. I'm committed now. The more I
think about it, the happier I'm am with the decision.

$970.00 shipped to my door. That's also with $125 for braided covering instead of plastic split
sleeve and $100 for an all metal GM corvette accel peddle.

The peddle I had bought for the RPM swap kit was going to be an issue due to it's shape and being
all plastic, there's no modifying it. This new peddle is a straight shot from mount to peddle, so
it should work better for my situation.

Will still need the Dakota Digital cruise control module. It's actually what PSI recommended. Tap
shift is wired into the harness. Chassis harness will come from Painless.

At the point you are at now it only makes sense to go stand alone. You really have nothing left of
the JK .Are going to be running ABS ? No wheel speed sensors right ? Headlight turn signals brake
lights? Maybe lol.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


__________________________________________________ ___
ALASHA
04-05-2018 02:35 PM
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4393370)
Yes I have. Just ordered the stand alone engine harness from PSI. I'm committed now. The more I
think about it, the happier I'm am with the decision.

$970.00 shipped to my door. That's also with $125 for braided covering instead of plastic split
sleeve and $100 for an all metal GM corvette accel peddle.

The peddle I had bought for the RPM swap kit was going to be an issue due to it's shape and being
all plastic, there's no modifying it. This new peddle is a straight shot from mount to peddle, so
it should work better for my situation.

Will still need the Dakota Digital cruise control module. It's actually what PSI recommended. Tap
shift is wired into the harness. Chassis harness will come from Painless.



Whats the plan for creature comforts? Power windows, A/C, radio



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________-
KOWBOY
04-05-2018 03:22 PM
Good call on the electrical system sir. Gonna cost ya some extra time on the initial build but then
save ya a whole mess of bullshit for the life of the rig.

__________________________________________________ __________________________________-
Thisguyhasadd42
04-05-2018 04:25 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4390466)
Want to know what really sucks? I'll tell ya.
Using a 2" hole saw that is only 1.5" deep. Can't even do a 90* cope without rotating the piece
180* and finishing the cut. That......fucking......blows.

That's with the Lenox hole saws from Lowes. I found some Starret hole saws that are 2" deep on the
internet last night (were actually discounted to $7) so I ordered a couple.
Aslo found some 4" deep ones, used for hot-taps, but the company wanted almost $350. That kind of
made me feel a little better about rotating the pieces 180*.


What we have done in this situation is cut it till it stops, pull the drill out then use a cutoff
wheel to chop half the tube off then finish the notch. No need to rotate the tube.

Jeeps coming along nicely man! Good call on the stand alone you will be much happier in the end for
sure.


__________________________________________________ ___________________________
gt1guy
04-05-2018 07:31 PM

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4393394)
At the point you are at now it only makes sense to go stand alone. You really have nothing left of
the JK .Are going to be running ABS ? No wheel speed sensors right ? Headlight turn signals brake
lights? Maybe lol.


It's still a Jeep!:thefinger:


Correct, all that bs is going away. I don't have emissions testing, just a minimal inspection. Head
lights, tail lights, brake lights, turn signals, horn and wipers, that's it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4393426)
Whats the plan for creature comforts? Power windows, A/C, radio


All that stuff runs off the chassis harness. I do have power windows/locks in the factory doors, so
the plan is to have 4 switches on the dash/console, kind of like the jeep already does.

AC will be a Vintage Air set up, ac/heat/defrost. Basically, it's all stand alone too. They also
don't have cables to control the doors and such, they're all
electronic, so the controller can go anywhere.

Something like this. Nice and small.
https://www.vintageair.com/images/491229.jpg


Radio will just be something simple. I don't need all the bells and whistles. Maybe a CB.

The thing that's really starting to sink in, is that it's basically a blank canvas as far as the electrical system goes now.
I will have to do something for gauges, tach and speedo. Haven't really put any effort into that yet.
I also realize there's going to be a bunch of little bits I'll need to get. Things like the interior lights ect. ect. I need to start a list.:D​​



Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4393442)
Good call on the electrical system sir. Gonna cost ya some extra time on the initial build but then save ya a whole mess of bullshit for the life of the rig.


Thank you Sir.



Remember the look you gave me when I told you about the funky electrical issues the Jeep had when I started the build? I do. :thefinger:

I had always planned on doing this as a second phase, but as I get farther along I'm realizing, the last thing I want when it's finished is to (A) have problems
and (B) tear it down again.

I'm already itching to beat the shit out of this thing on a trail.



Originally Posted by Thisguyhasadd42 (Post 4393474)
What we have done in this situation is cut it till it stops, pull the drill out then use a cutoff wheel to chop half the tube off then finish the notch. No need
to rotate the tube.
Jeeps coming along nicely man! Good call on the stand alone you will be much happier in the end for sure.


That's a good idea. I actually realized I didn't have the height set perfectly centered, so one ended up with more meat than the other. Fixing that helped a lot.
On the longer miters, I've been pre cutting the tube with the porta band, and when it bottoms out, I can generally grab the culprit with pliers and bend it out of
the way.
Besides, I need all the cutoff wheels for the tub.:wink2:
And thank you. I do think I'll be happy with going stand alone. The fucking radio won't be able to put the Jeep in limp mode now.


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________


gt1guy 04-08-2018 07:43 PM




Looks kind of stupid all by itself.

DSC09504.jpg
​​
DSC09509.jpg
​​
DSC09511.jpg
​​
DSC09512.jpg
​​
DSC09515.jpg
​​
DSC09508.jpg
​​
I'd have got more done today if I hadn't made the same part WRONG twice. Nicked a little too much
off the first one which made it too short. That was after taking all the time to get the hard end
fit up. Second one I cut the last cope in the wrong direction. Yep, stuck the tube in the notcher
the same way I had done on the "other side". Two stupid mistakes instantly erase hours of work.
Then I spend more time trying to find a spot I can re-purpose my fuck ups in.





__________________________________________________ _____________
ExWrench
04-08-2018 09:42 PM
Damn, Kevin :eek:​​​ . . . that's looking awesome! :rockon: :beer:​​
It'll almost be a shame if you don't get into a gnarly, cartwheeling endo and test out that
beautiful cage :laughing:​​NOTE: I do not hope that you get into a gnarly, cartwheeling endo
:shitstorm: - keep the shiny side up! :th_pray:



__________________________________________________ ___________________
gt1guy
04-09-2018 12:07 AM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4395154)
Damn, Kevin :eek:​​ . . that's looking awesome! :rockon: :beer:​​
It'll almost be a shame if you don't get into a gnarly, cartwheeling endo and test out that
beautiful cage :laughing:​​​ NOTE: I do not hope that you get into a gnarly, cartwheeling endo
:shitstorm: - keep the shiny side up! :th_pray:


How bout just a barrel roll. You know, baby steps.
 
Damn, that's half of the build transferred over.

I thought it would be faster.

Dude, you've put a hell of an effort in so far - much respect :beer:

Now that you're fully committed . . . where's the other half? Tick tock:flipoff2:
 
Dude, you've put a hell of an effort in so far - much respect :beer:

Now that you're fully committed . . . where's the other half? Tick tock:flipoff2:

It's coming...............I go till I get mouse finger. I haven't scrolled through to see if everything is as it should be. There's been a couple times I've hit paste, followed by "where the fuck did it go?"


I do believe you might have a build thread that needs to get moved too. :stirthepot:
 
KOWBOY
04-09-2018 06:20 AM

Turned out nice. Just need to add some grab handles ... and some paddin'.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------_______________________________________


gt1guy
04-09-2018 10:29 AM



Originally Posted by Cod (Post 4395234)
That's looking really good!

Thank you Sir




Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4395274)

Turned out nice. Just need to add some grab handles ... and some paddin'.


Thank you Sir.

Still have door bars, harness bars, seat mounts F&R, what will form the center console and dash,
A-pillar braces, most everything from the B's back, rear upper shock mounts, and I know I'm
forgetting a few things, to go.

I haven't even got to/through the firewall yet.

Still trying to figure out if I want to do a "V" in the enter of the windshield or not. Or I should
say, I want to (with 1.5"), I just don't want to get hassled by the police for having something in
the way of my field of vision. Don't know if folks get hassled for that or not.



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________

gt1guy
04-10-2018 10:56 AM


Tied into the C now. It's starting to actually look like a cage now.



DSC09524.jpg

DSC09526.jpg

DSC09518.jpg


This pic was a really bad idea. I thought I had hair. Fuck mirrors.


DSC09528.jpg




__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____--



Rodjk
04-10-2018 02:29 PM
So both you and Kowboy are into teaser pics..:laughing2::laughing2:




__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________________
gt1guy
04-10-2018 05:22 PM


Originally Posted by Rodjk (Post 4396370)
So both you and Kowboy are into teaser pics..:laughing2::laughing2:

I don't want to talk about it....................:D




__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________

terrahawk
04-10-2018 07:00 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4396234)

This pic was a really bad idea. I thought I had hair. Fuck mirrors.


Run away angle grinder?



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ______________-

gt1guy
04-10-2018 09:01 PM


Originally Posted by terrahawk (Post 4396522)

Run away angle grinder?

No, it actually happened much, much, much slower. Few more years and I'll be ready for some wax and
a buffing wheel.



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________________

gt1guy
04-15-2018 11:28 AM


Well, it seems postimage has made some changes so I need to go back and change all the .org's to
.cc's to get the pics back. This will take a bit, I just got the first two pages fixed.:thefinger:

In other news. More work on the cage.

Rear legs of the C and the Hz/harness bar in. Harness bar runs close enough to the center of the
"x" to pull double duty as the horizontal member too. It also lined up with the bends on the C, so
that's a twofer or threefer.


DSC09531.jpg

DSC09533.jpg



After the legs go through the inner fender I kicked them in so the tie-ins wouldn't be gigantic
levers off the frame.



DSC09535.jpg

DSC09536.jpg

A-pillar braces are in. Tried to keep it as tight as possible and still have it functional. Last
thing I want is for this thing to be a pain in the ass to get in/out of, that's the first thing
that would kill the fun of driving it on the street. When I stuck the seat in place, it actually
helped getting in/out by having something to grab, so I'm happy.
What it also does is turn the A-pillar into a truss instead of a bar with a big ol bend in the middle.



DSC09573.jpg

DSC09574.jpg



That's a loooooong cope. Also, because this cage is getting welded in place, mucho time is taken to
make damn sure I can get the gun to where it needs to go.



DSC09576.jpg




DSC09577.jpg

DSC09578.jpg

DSC09581.jpg






DSC09570.jpg



\_________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________



gt1guy
04-16-2018 12:17 PM

Has anyone been hassled by the cops for having the center windshield support bars? The "V" in the
middle is what I'm asking about.

I know the laws in probably every state say you can't have anything that obstructs vision, but are
people actually getting pulled over for the "V" all by itself? I can understand it being just
another in a long list of "technically" illegal things on a Jeep if you're already pulled over.

I'd use 1.5" if I decide to go with it. I'm still not convinced it really does that much.

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________________-


Tspevacek
04-16-2018 04:50 PM
You could almost maintain the same strength in the cage by using corner gussets between the A
upright and the windshield top cross bar. This is what we did for grand am cup cars because of the
e46 windshield sweep and visibility.



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________

gt1guy
04-16-2018 05:56 PM


Originally Posted by Tspevacek (Post 4399433)
You could almost maintain the same strength in the cage by using corner gussets between the A
upright and the windshield top cross bar. This is what we did for grand am cup cars because of the
e46 windshield sweep and visibility.




Are you talking about something like this? This is on my 72 Camaro but, they're supports for the A-pillar.





DSC05090.jpg




__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________________________________________

BlackOps82
04-16-2018 08:38 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4399362)
Has anyone been hassled by the cops for having the center windshield support bars? The "V" in the
middle is what I'm asking about.



I know the laws in probably every state say you can't have anything that obstructs vision, but are
people actually getting pulled over for the "V" all by itself? I can understand it being just
another in a long list of "technically" illegal things on a Jeep if you're already pulled over.


I'd use 1.5" if I decide to go with it. I'm still not convinced it really does that much.


I daily drove a caged Cummins truck and my ZO6 never had an issue in Colorado.


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ______________________________________
 
Tspevacek
04-17-2018 06:02 AM


Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4399465) Are you talking about something like this?







DSC05090.jpg


Yes but it does not have to be that long. Basically you are setting so that in the event of a roll
over or impact at that corner it pushes the load in 2 directions instead of 1. we did a lot of side
gussets using formed sheet steel ( with dimples pressed in) as we could hollow out dimples for
weight saving and the pressed in section would strengthen the gusset.






________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy
04-17-2018 11:00 AM


Originally Posted by BlackOps82 (Post 4399530)
I daily drove a caged Cummins truck and my ZO6 never had an issue in Colorado.


That's good to know. Thank you.



Originally Posted by Tspevacek (Post 4399593)
Yes but it does not have to be that long. Basically you are setting so that in the event of a roll
over or impact at that corner it pushes the load in 2 directions instead of 1. we did a lot of side
gussets using formed sheet steel ( with dimples pressed in) as we could hollow out dimples for
weight saving and the pressed in section would strengthen the gusset.


That makes sense. It would also not block vision as much as what I did in my Camaro (the pic).



________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


gt1guy

04-19-2018 04:39 PM


Seat mount time.

This framework will also be used for closing the holes in the floor and form thebase for the center console.



DSC09603.jpg

DSC09600.jpg

DSC09601.jpg

DSC09607.jpg




gt1guy
04-21-2018 11:54 PM
DSC09609.jpg

DSC09614.jpg

DSC09613.jpg

DSC09612.jpg





gt1guy
04-22-2018 07:35 PM



So after realizing I was about to make life really hard on myself, I started closing out the
factory B-pillars I had hollowed out to stick tube in. I was starting to get a bunch of other shit
in the way and I hate that "oh fuck" feeling.

So going from this. https://s19.postimg.cc/92q4nw437/DSC09475.jpg And sticking this back where it
came form. https://s19.postimg.cc/nq7sz7f9f/DSC09144.jpg
Well there's a straight 2" tube in the way now, so it doesn't fit.

I want to make the top half of the B removable, like you see many folks do. So, I started from
where I'll cut it and worked down. Started by welding everywhere the factory had the factory Bsheetmetal connected to the factory tube.





DSC09631.jpg




DSC09628.jpg






DSC09629.jpg

DSC09630.jpg

Then the fun started. Cut the piece in half, so I had a top and a bottom. The new tube sits inboard
farther than the factory bit did, so I also had to take a strip out of the center.
Then re-welded the spot welds and welded the front and read sides to the new tube.
DSC09648.jpg

DSC09650.jpg



Then came the lower doubler piece. Had to do the same thing with it. Cut a strip out of the center
and fit the halves. All done. Still have the other side to do.


DSC09653.jpg

DSC09651.jpg


Pain in the ass, but at least the latch for the front door and the hinges for the rear doors are
supported the way they're supposed to be. It's very solid now. I still need to make some footprints
for where both B's go through the floor.



_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Mhare
05-01-2018 10:12 AM
The Jeep is looking awesome man. Cant wait to see it finished.



-_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy
05-01-2018 10:45 AM


Originally Posted by Mhare (Post 4406394)
The Jeep is looking awesome man. Cant wait to see it finished.

Thank you Sir. And, neither can I:D

Been working on stupid seat mount tabs. Of course no two tabs can be the same shape and size. And
what do I do to keep the fun alive? Decide to double shear the mounts. 24 tabs for 3 seats.

Ya, I got one and a half seats done so far..............







Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4401729)
I still need to make some footprints for where both B's go through the floor.


DSC09666.jpg

DSC09662.jpg

DSC09659.jpg


DSC09664.jpg






It would be nice to be able to say that those footprints would hold the B's in place even without
the frame tie-ins but, 99% is sitting on just one thin ass piece of sheet metal. So while I can say
I followed best practices and technically they do spread out any force over a larger surface area,
they're really only decorations.
With that said, the front B has so much weld connecting it to the actual B pillar, it's part of the
body now and ain't going anywhere. Just closing a front door sounds 100x more solid. It's a pretty
impressive difference.

And we now have two seats with fully functional mounts. :grin2:





DSC09667.jpg








DSC09674.jpg






DSC09675.jpg






DSC09683.jpg





Seat frame will form the bottom of the console and tie into the lower dash bar at the front and
higher up on the B "X" in the rear. As it sits right now, if I stand in the middle of the front
cross bar, there's a small but noticeable amount of flex, which I guess can be expected. Once it
gets turned into a lattice, it won't budge.



_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

KOWBOY
05-05-2018 06:33 AM
Seat mounts turned out real nice.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
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