Blue Jeep build

[gt1guy]

tapcola
05-05-2018 06:38 AM


How many spools of wire have you went through? Man that is a a lot of fab work, it looks great man
. I get to live my dreams through the pics !

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gt1guy
05-05-2018 10:16 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4409026)

Seat mounts turned out real nice.

Thank you Sir.

Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4409034)
How many spools of wire have you went through? Man that is a a lot of fab work, it looks great man
. I get to live my dreams through the pics ! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Thank you. I don't mind the amount of work, I'm enjoying it, as long as the end result works as
intended. Which kind of sucks, I have to finish it to find out if it was worth it.

I had an old #10 spool of .023 I used for the firewall and hood. There is still wire on it so maybe
4-5lbs for the Jeep.

I've used up a #10 spool of .030. That was replaced with a #44 spool of .035 which is now about
half gone. There may have been another #10 spool of .030, I'm not sure though.

So, just what I'm sure of, is 37lbs of wire.........so far. I'm sure there is a couple pounds of
little "tip snips" laying on the ground, I'm pretty anal about that.



_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

gt1guy
05-11-2018 01:17 PM
5 Attachment(s)
Horizontal cross bar for the B and the harness bars are in Attachment 328706
Started on the upper mounts for the rear coilover/bypass mounts. Ran a tube between the C and the
rear kicker.
Attachment 328714
Then a vertical tube for the inboard side of the mounts to come off of. Attachment 328722
Then made a upper mount simulator so I could see what the hell I had going on. Going to have to
take some more out of the inner fender going to the rear. Attachment 328730
Attachment 328738

 

[gt1guy]

Houston, we have a problem.

It seems that in my last entry into the build thread (above), is where I switched from Postimage hosting to attaching them directly to JKO.

This is gonna get slloooooooooooooooooooowww.


Let me try "upload" from JKO

Ok, that works. Looks like I get to manually upload each pic one at a time. Damn, neck deep in the suck.

I think I'll go take a shit and down a handful of Xanax.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Thanks for taking the time to do this. It's a bad ass build and it deserves way more attention than it got over there.

 

[ExWrench]

Houston, we have a problem.

It seems that in my last entry into the build thread (above), is where I switched from Postimage hosting to attaching them directly to JKO.

This is gonna get slloooooooooooooooooooowww.


Let me try "upload" from JKO . . .

Ok, that works. Looks like I get to manually upload each pic one at a time. Damn, neck deep in the suck.

I think I'll go take a shit and down a handful of Xanax.

I was hammered 2 hours ago or I would've typed this earlier: try going to the page on JKO and save as HTML webpage in a folder on your computer. In that folder will be a folder with all the files from that page, and it should have the photos from that page. That should put all of them in the local folder, if that makes it any easier to upload here.


EDIT: disregard last -the Bruce Gender surgery made JKO do something fucky with the photos. FAWK!

My idea would've worked fine before the JKO went south Sorry dude, I got nothin'

 

[gt1guy]

Thanks for taking the time to do this. It's a bad ass build and it deserves way more attention than it got over there.

Thank you Sir.

I'll get it all down here somehow. It might suck but, life is full of suck, just have to deal with it. (Ya, that was the easy part.............typing that out)

I was hammered 2 hours ago or I would've typed this earlier: try going to the page on JKO and save as HTML webpage in a folder on your computer. In that folder will be a folder with all the files from that page, and it should have the photos from that page. That should put all of them in the local folder, if that makes it any easier to upload here.


EDIT: disregard last -the Bruce Gender surgery made JKO do something fucky with the photos. FAWK!

My idea would've worked fine before the JKO went south Sorry dude, I got nothin'

I did also save a copy of the build as a HTML when I saved it as a PDF. I just looked, the HTML version has zero pics in it. Not even a box where a pic would go, just a blank space.
All the postimage pics had the postimage address where the pics goes in the thread. I think that's why they just posted straight over. Where the direct attachments start, it only says "attachment # 29393" or whatever number.

Buuuut, if I hold the mouse over the attachment #, when in the PDF, it shows the address of the pic at JKO. I'm going to try swapping the attachment #'s for the addresses and see how that works. I hope it does, it wouldn't be that hard to knock that out. If it doesn't work, that's going to really suck because neither the attachment #, or the JKO address has the actual pic number in it. So I'd have to open the JKO address to "see" which pic it is and then scroll through the 4500 pics I have to find the right one, then attach each one here. That would take a bit of time.

 

[gt1guy]

Ok, lets try this:


gt1guy
05-11-2018 01:17 PM

Horizontal cross bar for the B and the harness bars are in




Started on the upper mounts for the rear coilover/bypass mounts. Ran a tube between the C and the rear kicker.

Then a vertical tube for the inboard side of the mounts to come off of.



Then made a upper mount simulator so I could see what the hell I had going on. Going to have to
take some more out of the inner fender going to the rear.











So here's where I'm at right now. The tabs for the shocks will span between both tubes. There will
be 4 tabs and I made the height difference enough that the
tabs will have quite a bit of vertical beef to them.
Do have a question though. Anyone think I need to add anything else for support of the mounts?



I was thinking of something like this but, I'm not really sure it needs it. The tubes making up the
mounts are 1.75"x .120 wall dom, the shit they run between in 2"x.120 wall dom, the longest of the
1.75 is 18" long.






What say you folks?

 

[gt1guy]

It appears, that's gonna work. A few more clicks here and a few more clicks there, but we should be good.

 

[gt1guy]

ExWrench
05-11-2018 03:27 PM


Damn, Kevin - you're not fookin' around!

I love the " . . . I may have used another 10# spool of .030", not sure . . . " ​​​ Still
looking like you know what you're doing - good show, Sir! ​​​

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4411730)
I was thinking of something like this but, I'm not really sure it needs it. The tubes making up the
mounts are 1.75"x .120 wall dom, the shit they run between in 2"x.120 wall dom, the longest of the
1.75 is 18" long.

What say you folks?

I'd run the top one up to that fat node, and leave the area below clear for serviceability.


Disclaimer: that's just my half-assed opinion based on glancing at a photo and visualizing forces
for 10 seconds. Feel free to disregard my hip-shot $.02 . . . and five bucks says you'll add both
tubes out of paranoia anyway :D



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gt1guy
05-12-2018 09:51 AM
Thank you kind Sir.

Actually, I don't want to put either of those extra bars on. The lower one, I don't think would do
much anyways. So I agree with you, it'd be the top only if I did.

I did forget to add that, that area will be enclosed and incorporated into the inner fender, so
there's a slight strength gain by doing that. The shocks will be completely outside of the tub. I
don't want big open holes that get in the way of enjoying the ac.:thefinger: @not a buggy!



================================================== ================================================== =======================

jhubright
05-12-2018 07:30 PM

I don't think you really need either bar. I don't see any advantage for the lower support bar for
sure. The only advantage of the upper bar would be if you completely bottomed out your coil overs
to the max. My guess is that you would have to drop it off the roof of a 10 story building for that
to happen.But if you did bottom out your coil overs then I think I would be more worried about a
possible week spot with the bolt and frame bracket.


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gt1guy
05-13-2018 11:18 AM

Originally Posted by jhubright (Post 4412089)
I don't think you really need either bar. I don't see any advantage for the lower support bar for
sure. The only advantage of the upper bar would be if you completely bottomed out your coil overs
to the max. My guess is that you would have to drop it off the roof of a 10 story building for that
to happen.But if you did bottom out your coil overs then I think I would be more worried about a
possible week spot with the bolt and frame bracket.

That's pretty much what I'm thinking. I'm not going to be jumping this thing 10' in the
air.......on purpose.

Those little tabs you see in the pic for the frame tie in, are just temporary, they're actually
just tacked. Needed something to hold the C in place. Still have fish plating to do on the new
frame section, waiting to pull the body for that. At that time I'll do proper tabs for the tie in.

Which brings me to something else that's been in the back of my head. Both the front and rear upper
shock mounts are going to be connected to the cage, that's tied into the frame through bushings.
There has to be some amount of movement doing it this way, which isn't exactly what you want.
But I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that with all the extra frame tie ins and the stiffer
Energy Suspension body mounts, there won't be any flex between the body and frame.
I'll go out on a limb and say I bet my sliders never touch the body even if I mount them real
close.


================================================== ================================================== ================================

BlackOps82
05-16-2018 10:06 AM
Looking really good my friend!!! I traded my Diesel in and bought a JLUR last saturday !!! I needed
something to play with while I build my crawler!


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gt1guy
05-16-2018 11:46 AM

Originally Posted by BlackOps82 (Post 4413522)
Looking really good my friend!!! I traded my Diesel in and bought a JLUR last saturday !!! I needed
something to play with while I build my crawler!

Thank you Sir. Get building!


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gt1guy
05-16-2018 01:05 PM


Started to kind of sorta get a plan going for the inner fenders at the rear. Only thing I really
knew I wanted to do was box in the inboard and outboard sides of the fender opening to get some
strength back. Other than that, I had no clue, just figured something would come to light as I
worked on other shit.

And it did. After I tacked a door bar in.









This is just a scrap piece of sheet metal, but it shows the plan. I can weld it to the outboard
cut.






Weld it to the inboard cut, this will close out the door jam and rocker panel.










Then weld it to the door bar and bend a flange at 6 o'clock on the bar. This will be the beginning
of where the rest of the sheet metal connect to. It ain't like I have a lot of choices in this
area, I have about enough room to stick a piece of sheet metal, so I'm sticking a piece of sheet
metal. I hope by running it to the door bar, it acts somewhat like a big gusset and adds some
strength.








Next up was seeing if the tire was going to play nice. I don't remember how far the tire came in to
the tub when stuffed, but I didn't think it was very far.


10.5" down, 8.5"up. Half inch more in both directions than it is able to go.















Got lucky. For now.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I've been reading this as your posting it. Holy shit man, your attention to detail (OCD) are incredible. If you ever get out my way in Texas to wheel it, I'd love to see it in person.

 

[gt1guy]

rockgear 05-17-2018 02:41 PM

Thanks for the pics and update


=====================================================================================================================================
gt1guy 05-17-2018 07:17 PM

Originally Posted by rockgear (Post 4414201)
Thanks for the pics and update

You're welcome Sir. Some days more head scratching get done than anything else................................kind of like today.



==================================================================================================================================

gt1guy 05-24-2018 01:15 PM


Got one of the inner fender sections made/fit/installed. Just about destroyed my little getto HF sheet metal bender in the process. Snapped both handles off, so
now it's the old 24" adjustable wrench and a 3' cheater pipe for a handle.:homersimpson: It ain't made for bending 16ga, so I guess destruction should be
expected.

Even had to cut a few slots, so I was bending less metal.

Eventually ended up with this. Ready to hit the flange with the shrinker to get the shape.

Didn't get any pictures, but in order to make the now highly compromised door jam area as strong as possible, I welded everywhere that the cutting I've done
was through multiple pieces (which was just about all of it), joining all the pieces together before the inner fender went in. There were spots where I would have never got the inner fender connected to all the different pieces. Hell, the inboard area around the door catch hoop is 3-4 pieces. Also welded the thin ass
outer fender to the corner armor. Hit it all with a flapper wheel and poof, ready for the new inner fender section.
Inner fender welded in place.

Going to box in this little triangle'ish area to add a bit of strength.

Here you can sort of see the indentation I made in the piece where the curved inner fender fits up and around the straight door bar.

Inboard side of tub welded.

Inner fender welded to door bar at indentation.

So now, all the individual pieces of metal are welded together, they are all welded to the inner fender and it's all welded to the door bar. I'm going to flap wheel
the welds smooth on the outboard side to clean it up. Then roll on a new coat of paint.
That area went from scary, sketchy, "it's about to fold at any second", to ridged as fuck. I'm happy. Just wish this was the second side and not the first.


===============================================================================================================================

gt1guy 05-24-2018 01:23 PM


Oh, and I just got a call and a job offer. Looks like the oilfield in the gulf is picking up. I've worked 2 months in the last 24. Yes, that's two years. Very long
weekend.



=================================================================================================================================

ExWrench 05-24-2018 04:47 PM


Congratulations Kevin!

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4417161)
Oh, and I just got a call and a job offer. Looks like the oilfield in the gulf is picking up. I've worked 2 months in the last 24. Yes, that's two years. Very
long weekend.

Translation:

This will now transition into one of those badass 3-7 year builds that are frustrating to follow just like on PBB
:thefinger:

 

[gt1guy]

I've been reading this as your posting it. Holy shit man, your attention to detail (OCD) are incredible. If you ever get out my way in Texas to wheel it, I'd love to see it in person.

Thank you.

If I don't drag this thing around the country to wheel all the cool places, I've wasted my time. Unless I die of old age before I get it finished.

 

[gt1guy]

05-24-2018 06:58 PM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4417362)
Translation:
:thefinger:

Thank you Sir.

A large weight was lifted off my shoulders today, that's for sure.
Oh, and shut your whore mouth.:thefinger: :wink2:
The only thing this changes on the build is that I might actually be able to finish it.:grin2:

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gt1guy
06-07-2018 12:10 PM

Got the first part of the passenger side inner fender well installed. Always figured the second one is easier than the first, well, not this time. :D Took two tries cause I fucked up the first one.
Missed my dimple placement where it cradles the door bar. Tried moving the dimple, which is a flat
indentation on a curved piece, and that just lead to an over beaten part that could be used as a
topo map.
Anyways, I guess the second one is easier, just didn't realize it starts over each day.

I did get some pics this time of where I had to weld the individual pieces of tub together, before
sticking the fender well in.























And after removing all the goop between the pieces, squeezing them together with vice grips and
booger welding them together. Looks like shit before hitting with the flapper but, at this point it
ain't a beauty contest.

















And the inner stuck in place.










Heading out to the shop to finish welding in the inner. Then give everything a good splash of Gibbs
oil to stave off rust, I'm heading offshore in the morning. Haven't really worked in the gulf in 5
years and this job is dealing with toppled platforms from Katrina, which was what most of my work
was before I started working overseas.





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KOWBOY
06-09-2018 05:18 AM
Be safe out there Brother ... gotta come home in one piece to finish this silly rig. :grin2:



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aTX427
06-19-2018 07:40 AM
This is my first post. I came across your build searching for full hydro builds and found myself
reading through the last 18 pages. I had to join JKO to tell you good luck in finishing this build
and congratulations getting back out in the oil field. The past five years have been difficult for
a lot of people, but it does seem to be picking back up.


-================================================== ================================================== =

gt1guy
07-04-2018 05:45 AM

Originally Posted by aTX427 (Post 4426169)
This is my first post. I came across your build searching for full hydro builds and found myself
reading through the last 18 pages. I had to join JKO to tell you good luck in finishing this build
and congratulations getting back out in the oil field. The past five years have been difficult for
a lot of people, but it does seem to be picking back up.

Thank you Sir.

It certainly does seem to be picking up in the gulf and everywhere else too. I'd like to get back overseas, much better pay.


================================================== ================================================== =========================



gt1guy
07-13-2018 09:12 AM


Started the rest of the inner rear fenders. Spent about a whole day just staring at it, trying to
come up with a plan.
Building anything is really a chess match between priority's and compromises. Now I get to pay the
piper for my priority's and deal with the compromises. In my case the priority's were the
suspension and the cage, the compromise was cutting everything else out of the way. Well, that was
easy during the cutting part.:D

Now I have a cage tie-in, seat mount, floor of the tub and the beginning of the cubby where the
shocks will reside, all basically in the same spot.

Best pic I could find of what I'm talking about. This is with the tire fully stuffed. There's a lot
of space inboard of the tire that I'd like to reclaim as interior of the tub. Seat mount obviously
needs to be inside, in a perfect world the cage tie-in would be outside and the "C" pillar itself
forms the corner of the cubby for the shocks.







So here's what I came up with. Close out the opening where it clears the tires and gives me the
most interior space back.
















And the beginning of the shock cubby. This puts the whole "C" pillar inside the tub, but only one
of the tie-in ears will have to poke up through a hole (the front one). A rubber gasket, silicone
sealer, or duct tape, or bubble gum should keep water out.


​​​





And the back side of it. Just need to run a bead around it and flap wheel it smooth.









And a overall of what I have going on.




​




Something had to poke through the tub, and I think just the one ear of the tie-in was the best
route to take.

Plus I can do this on each side of the rear seat now.:thefinger: They'll get bolted to the new
floor.












===============================================================================================


KOWBOY
07-13-2018 10:08 AM

Great to see some progress pics again Kevin!

Strange that your buggy's gonna have inner rear fenders tho. :grin2:

Love the ammo boxes! I was plannin' on headin' to the local surplus store next time home to see
what sizes they got and where I can stick 'em. Waterproof storage is a big deal.


======================================================================================

ALASHA
07-13-2018 10:14 AM
All the pics stopped working for me.

Guess that is what I getting for asking when this thing will be done. :crying:


======================================================================================



gt1guy
07-13-2018 11:25 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4429554)
Great to see some progress pics again Kevin!
Strange that your buggy's gonna have inner rear fenders tho. :grin2:

Love the ammo boxes! I was plannin' on headin' to the local surplus store next time home to see
what sizes they got and where I can stick 'em. Waterproof storage is a big deal.
No holding back for me.................it's going to have both kinds of fenders. Inners and
outers.:thefinger:

No holding back for me.................it's going to have both kinds of fenders. Inners and outers.:thefinger:

Those are 30cal ammo boxes, so the smaller size. Rear bench seat is only 42" wide, that helped with the space. I've also got a couple 50 cal and a couple
20mm boxes. The 20mm's you could fit a midget in.............might have to stomp a couple times, but who cares.

Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4429558)
All the pics stopped working for me.
Guess that is what I getting for asking when this thing will be done. :crying:

Well, try being nicer next time asshole.:thefinger::shitstorm: I kid, I kid.
Not sure about the pics. They are directly attached, I didn't go through postimg.org. I can actually see them in classic and dark skins. I still don't see anyone's avatars unless in dark mode.
Just imagine crappy pictures taken with a 15 year old camera, of shitty work done by a retarded monkey.:D

================================================================================================

 

[gt1guy]

KOWBOY
07-14-2018 04:38 AM


Please post pics of the midgets.

This lady was at a private party at a bar when I was down in TX ... she put on a good show.


=================================================================================================
gt1guy
07-14-2018 09:36 AM

^^That'a not gonna fit in a 20mm ammo can no matter how many times you stomp.



===========================================================================================

ExWrench
07-14-2018 06:35 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4429664)
^^That'a not gonna fit in a 20mm ammo can no matter how many times you stomp.

Maybe if you throw in 2 gold coins and a 4-leaf clover first :dunno:

======================================================================================================================


Dkjeep
07-15-2018 09:14 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4429646)
Please post pics of the midgets.
This lady was at a private party at a bar when I was down in TX ... she put on a good show.

That thing looks haggard as fuck.

========================================================================================================================


gt1guy
07-16-2018 10:47 AM

Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4429724)
That thing looks haggard as fuck.

Haggard or not..............I have a midget in my build thread. There should be a patch, or maybe a
badge for that.



==============================================================================

JKommuter
07-16-2018 12:53 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4429824)
Haggard or not..............I have a midget in my build thread. There should be a patch, or maybe a
badge for that

.


Fine you get the badge, but you kind of cheated since you also have Kowboy in your thread. :grin2:


======================================================================================

gt1guy
07-16-2018 03:41 PM

Originally Posted by JKommuter (Post 4429848)
Fine you get the badge, but you kind of cheated s nce you also have Kowboy in your thread. :grin2:

True. Not everyday you have a buddy willing to share a midget.



==================================================================================================

KOWBOY
07-17-2018 04:21 AM

Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4429724)
That thing looks haggard as fuck.

Not that I did 'er, but I've done worser ... don't y'all doubt that for a minute. And it ain't like
she had a whole shitload of competition ... she was the only midget stripper in the bar.

Originally Posted by JKommuter (Post 4429848)
Fine you get the badge, but you kind of cheated since you also have Kowboy in your thread. :grin2:

Pics of me are even rarer than pics of them midget strippers.

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4429882)
True. Not everyday you have a buddy willing to share a midget.

For gawds sake Brother ... can ya share more pics of your fuckin' jeep now??? Otherwise we're gonna
have to move this shit over to the chit chat section.


==================================================================================================================


y
07-17-2018 04:32 PM


Ok, here ya go. Still working on inner fenders.

==========================================================================================================================


gt1guy 07-21-2018 11:44 AM

Getting closer.

I hate this stuff.............trim, trim, trim, trim...........fuck, too small, throw it away. It's a lesson in patients that I'm finding I'm lacking in.
So here's where I'm at now. Bead rolled some stiffeners into the flat panels, hopefully to keep any annoying vibrations to a minimum.

Trimmed to rear to match what's left of the existing inner fender.

This was a pain in the ass and a big learning experience. First I tried to follow the radius of the tube using the brake. That looked like shit. So I beat it flat, then
hit it with the english wheel. Much smoother results.

Here's what I came up with for closing out the outboard side. The triangular pieces and the cover plate are 16ga to try to add a little support to the fender area.
This will be welded to the filler piece joining the inner/outer fenders and to the cage, just like the first front piece I put in.

Now, here's where I'm at now. And I need a sanity check on my thinking here.
This is the bottom piece of the floor going in. Yes, it will need a slot cut in it for the cage tie-in to stick up through. This is also a part of my sanity check.

Obviously is has a ways to go farther forward

The black line show how much farther forward the new floor piece will go. everything below that
line will be removed.

Now for my sanity check.
This is the distance I'm getting between the new floor piece and the top of the frame. It's about
.5" or so.

Here's my thinking. I actually don't believe I'm going to have any movement between the body and
the frame. I think it might absorb some NVH vibrations but, it isn't going to be moving around.
The body mounts themselves are being replaced with poly ones from Energy Suspension, which are
stiffer than the stock soft OEM rubber mounts. In addition to that, I have 10 hard poly cage
tie-ins just in the tub alone. There will be another 6 tie-ins forward of the firewall.
I just don't see that .5" gap between the new floor and the frame as being a problem or making
contact.

What say you folks? Is my thinking sound? Should I actually be worried about being that close to
the frame with the floor?
Oh, and if you couldn't tell, I'm making it so the shocks are completely outside of the tub. No
open holes to the inside. It is a Jeep after all, don't want the ac to
escape.:thefinger:

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
07-21-2018 12:26 PM

Oh and I do have some info that might help folks working on panels. Or I should say, I've learn
some things from watching many videos of pro's that really work.

First, bead rolling. Yes it stretches the metal a little bit, but not as much as the bead shrinks
it. The larger the bead the more this problem raises it's ugly head. What you'll end up with is
something called "oil can". The panel won't end up flat. Like how old paper oil cans were made.

Solution. Before you make the bead, run over your layout lines for the bead with the english wheel
and a small radius lower wheel. This pre-stretches the metal. It also kind of oil cans the piece on
it's own. But when you follow up with the bead roller, what you end up with is a perfectly flat
piece with a bead in it.

If you like this kind of stuff, check out LAZZE Metal Shaping Classes and Videos


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ChuckTheRipper
07-22-2018 06:52 PM

Thanks for the tip. Been wondering how to fix that but haven't done any research. Looks like I need an English wheel now.

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gt1guy
08-02-2018 11:52 AM

Passenger side inner fender pieces done. Still need to bead roll them. At least they're made, so
when I pull the body, it's just a matter of slapping them back in and welding without the frame in
the way.






















Slowly but surely it's coming back together.


One more pick from the back. No big holes/shocks sticking inside the tub, it will be all closed off to the outside. Don't want the ac getting out.:thefinger:




Since I'm not going to be rolling around under this this thing for a while, I dropped it back down so it's sitting at ride height.
78" to the top of the window frame. 23" to bottom of frame.

Sticking picture here , so next time I forget what it should be, I can reference it.





All my old reference points are somewhere in this pile.





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KOWBOY
08-03-2018 04:25 AM


Inner fenders turned out right nice sir.

And I find it comfortin' knowin' there's at least one jeep on this fuckin' forum that's gonna weigh
more than mine. :grin2:


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Cod
08-03-2018 05:41 AM

Nice, You definitely have possess fabricating skills!!!!



================================================== =================================================
gt1guy
08-03-2018 10:54 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4431456)
Inner fenders turned out right nice sir.
And I find it comfortin' knowin' there's at least one jeep on this fuckin' forum that's gonna weigh
more than mine. :grin2:

Thank you Sir. It will be interesting to see what it ends up tipping the scales at. I'm guessing
6k. The list of what's adding weight is long, where I save weight is not so long.

I save weight on the seats. The hood/grill are lighter.:D

The front & rear frame sections are lighter. (the rear is a lot lighter) The new wiring will save
some weight.

The ABS/TIPM/emissions shit will be gone. AC system will be lighter.

I think all the sheet metal work is a wash. I'm cutting out multiple layers of 22ga and replacing
it with 16ga and 18ga.

Removing all the carpet will be a wash after having the tub Line-X'd

Each part of the drivetrain is heavier than what it's replacing. At least it's weight down low.

The cage. Short of replacing the weight of the factory cage, it's all added weight and a lot of it
is high. At 2.4lbs/ft, there's at least a few hundred lbs. It's funny though, when I look at it
sitting there, it sure doesn't look like it should be very heavy.

Originally Posted by Cod (Post 4431472)
Nice, You definitely have possess fabricating skills!!!!

Thank you Sir. I'm faking it.:D
If it can look OK from 10.........................well, from 50 feet, I'll be happy. I'm also
heavily relying on the Line-X to cover and smooth things out in the tub.

================================================== ================================================== =======================
KOWBOY
08-06-2018 04:54 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4431502)
I'm also heavily relying on the Line-X to cover and smooth things out in the tub.

Don't use the Line-X Ultra then. It's like paint and makes the flaws look even worser. They did
quite a bit of metal shapin' and smoothin' before they sprayed mine.


================================================== ================================================== ===========

gt1guy
08-06-2018 09:01 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4431698)
Don't use the Line-X Ultra then. It's like paint and makes the flaws look even worser. They did
quite a bit of metal shapin' and smoothin' before they sprayed mine.

Good to know. What I really want out of spraying the tub is, heat and sound mitigation. Covering
the ugly comes in third.
So standard Line-X it is.

================================================== ================================================== ==

a_ridder
08-07-2018 10:23 AM
I have heard good things about LizardSkin. They have two formulas, one for sound and one for heat,
and I believe you can spray them over the top of each other.

================================================== ================================================== =======
gt1guy
08-08-2018 09:42 AM

Originally Posted by a_ridder (Post 4431840)
I have hear good things about LizardSkin. They have two formulas, one for sound and one for heat,
and I believe you can spray them over the top of
each other.

Thanks man. I'll check into it as I have no experience with it. I have a Line-X place about 20mins
from me though. I also have the bed of my 2001 chevy truck done in Line-X. Had it shot 2days after
I bought the truck brand new. Other than the top of the bedsides showing their age, the rest is
still going strong. The truck has never been parked inside, so it will take something pretty
special to get me to stray from Line-X.

================================================== ================================================== ==========
a_ridder
08-08-2018 10:31 AM
Oh I don't blame you for wanting to stay with what works. The video where they spray Line-x on
water and stand on it, that's enough to make me want to try it.



================================================== ================================================== =======
Niceface
08-08-2018 12:49 PM
This build thread is insane. Man. How many more months you think you have left until this thing is
on the trails?


-================================================== ================================================== =============

gt1guy
08-09-2018 12:43 AM

Originally Posted by Niceface (Post 4432006)
This build thread is insane. Man. How many more months you think you have left until this thing is
on the trails?

Thank you Sir.

I'd like to have it done tomorrow, I'm missing not having the Jeep to drive around. Honestly, I
have no idea when it will be finished. A few months sounds good.


================================================== ================================================== ============
gt1guy
08-09-2018 08:06 PM


Filled in the the cut out I had to put in the tailgate to clear the fuel cell. The little plastic
cover still fits above it too.










Also made covers for where the rear UCA's stick up through the floor and where the top of the axle
mount for the uppers sticks through.




================================================== ==================================================


================================================== ================================================== ========
gt1guy
08-16-2018 12:51 PM


Front mounts for the bench seat are done. Might even add some strength to the door frame sense it
ties in at the base of where everything is welded together.







I've almost burned through the 44lb spool of .035 wire too.


================================================== =================================
ExWrench
08-16-2018 10:50 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4433134)
I've almost burned through the 44lb spool of .035 wire too.

Well then, I'm almost impressed :thefinger:

================================================== ======================================

KOWBOY
08-17-2018 04:53 AM

Has the warranty expired on your crate engine yet? >:)

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
08-17-2018 11:12 AM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4433168)
Well then, I'm almost impressed :thefinger:

I've probably lost 5lbs of wire just from nipping the end off. If it has ny kind of little grey
ball on the end......snip..........every fucking time. I guess we all have
something we're full retard about. That's mine, can't help it.:dunno:

Thanks for the ninja text.

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4433182)
Has the warranty expired on your crate engine yet? >:)​

Now that is fucking funny. Why you might ask? Cause I just looked at the
receipt....................................ordered from Summit on 8/18/16. So, no the
warranty isn't expired.....................it expires tomorrow.

This picture was taken on 7/19/17. So the engine sat in my shop for almost a year before I did
anything with it.


​


It also means I've been working on this thing for over a year now. Damn.


================================================== ================================================== =====

gt1guy
08-17-2018 11:35 AM

While I'm here. Did a test run on the cell just to make sure it still fits the can and things
haven't twisted up and changed shape.
Still fits.


​



Bottom side of fill plate. Filler neck has a flapper valve and the vent has a rollover check ball.


​




================================================== ================================================== ==
08-17-2018 12:14 PM

Better get it done because that fuel cell probably has about a year on it :grin2:
If it makes you feel any better, I have had an LS laying around for MUCH longer than you... and Im
not doing anything cool like either :(​


================================================== ================================================== ==========



gt1guy
08-17-2018 01:18 PM

Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4433230)
Better get it done because that fuel cell probably has about a year on it :grin2:
If it makes you feel any better, I have had an LS laying around for MUCH longer than you... and Im
not doing anything cool like either :(

Oh ya, 2014 on that one with narry a drop of fuel having ever been in it.
Here's what Fuel Safe says about the life of their cells.

Safety fuel cells are out of sight so they tend to be forgotten. Fuel cells have a finite life
span. The environment can greatly affect the cell’s longevity. The typical lifespan of a fuel cell
is between 8 and10 years, although all sanctioning bodies limit use to 5 years from the date of
manufacture. By following a few simple guidelines and inspecting your fuel cell on a regular basis,
you can ensure that the performance and safety of your vehicle will remain intact.

I don't have to worry about sanctioning body's, so, hopefully I can get a couple few years out of
it before needing to replace the bladder. Damn bladders are 95% of the cost of the cell.

Maybe I'll even drive it by then.:thefinger:


===================================================================================================




snout
08-17-2018 02:59 PM

Whatchoo using to bend all them tubes?

==================================================================================
gt1guy
08-17-2018 05:39 PM

Originally Posted by snout (Post 4433260)
Whatchoo using to bend all them tubes?

I have a JD2 model4. It's elect/hyd. I believe it will do up to 2.5". No complaints at all with it.
Plus, it being hydraulic means it doesn't have to be securely mounted to anything. The stand has
casters so I can roll it around. Which is good because it's heavy as fuck.

=================================================================================================================

ChuckTheRipper
08-18-2018 08:49 AM
This build is the only reason I even get on this site anymore...


==================================================================================================================


gt1guy
08-18-2018 09:34 AM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4433324)
This build is the only reason I even get on this site anymore...

Thanks Chuck. We miss you.


==============================================================================================================

Dkjeep
08-18-2018 02:31 PM

Are you going to be able to run those headers now?


========================================================================================================
gt1guy
08-18-2018 05:45 PM

Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4433338)
Are you going to be able to run those headers now?

No, the pass side comes close to fitting, dvr side is way off. I need something where the rear
primaries curve towards the front before going down.
I'm thinking something for a new Camaro or Vette might fit.

Who am I fooling, I'll end up having to make them myself.:nono:


============================================================================================
snout
08-18-2018 08:16 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4433354)
Who am I fooling, I'll end up having to make them myself.:nono:

yes please. I'd love to see this. I'm just getting started with 304 stainless.

============================================================================================================
gt1guy
08-19-2018 11:23 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by snout (Post 4433364)
yes please. I'd love to see this. I'm just getting started with 304 stainless.

Look into 321 if you're thinking headers.
Trust me, I hope like hell I can find something off the shelf that fits. I also know that's a tall
order to find something made for a specific layout that will fit a completely different layout.

Simple solution would be to slap a set of turbo headers on that point forward. Then all I'd have to
deal with is one 3" tube running back on each side. The down side to that is, short primary tube
length, which moves the torque curve up higher in the rpm range. Kind of like what those
Sanderson's for the LS conversions would do.

I've got in my head now that I really want a long tube header. Would help the engine breathe down
low. We'll see how that pans out. I've always thought it would be cool to make a set of headers
using the sand and heat method.


============================================================================================================
snout
08-19-2018 08:42 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4433384)
I've always thought it would be cool to make a set of headers using the sand and heat method.

Pack tube with dry sand, weld caps and bend?


===================================================================================================================
gt1guy
08-19-2018 09:13 PM

Originally Posted by snout (Post 4433402)
Pack tube with dry sand, weld caps and bend?

Yes. Old school art form. I'm sure I can't afford the learning curve though.

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
10-16-2018 01:00 PM

Already started spending.

*Mock up unit for the Vintage Air Gen II super
*26 circuit Painless weatherproof wiring harness
*Flasher unit for led's, high beam switch, key switch, power braid wire loom covering, other
associated bits for the wiring
*Copper/Nickle tube for brake lines, line clamps

I did wait 6 weeks before I started buying shit...................so that's a new record:grin2:


@TRD , I left a message, need coilovers, bypasses and springs.

=================================================================================================================



gt1guy
11-15-2018 01:32 PM


The coilovers for the rear, some starter springs and a couple 2.5" 4-tube bypasses on their way.



In other news. Finished boxing in the rear wheel well openings. Just seemed like it was a weak
spot, even with the armor, with the bottom open.

Also added a layer of 16ga over the area that forms the opening by the rear door. This was a thin
spot, now it's not as thin.

Aaaaand for shits and grins, I decided to see if I could get the spare squeezed in the back. The
son of a bitch fits. Can't have the tailgate or the back of the soft top on though. Maybe I do need
to start looking into the fold down tailgates. Some sort of removable spare holder will have to get
made.

=====================================================================================================================


Ok, so I got the the new springs on the front coilovers, set them at zero preload and slapped them on.




I made a monster truck.





Who doesn't want almost 13" of up travel. This is what 8.75" of lift height looks like.

I just don't have enough weight back in the Jeep yet. So I pulled the lower 225 springs and stuck
the 150 uppers where the lowers would go and cranked down
the dual rate nuts until I had it sitting at ride height.

I'm going to weld some tabs on pieces of tube to replace the coilovers for the time being. I just wanted to see it "holding it's own". I'm good now.

====================================================================================================================



gt1guy 12-11-2018 10:38 AM

Started on the trans tunnel. It'll be nice to not see the huge hole in the floor any more. Better yet, not having to roll around on the shop floor to pick up tools
that fall through it.
The framework for the seat mounts is (sorta) guiding the shape of the tunnel. Nothing is really where it "should" be though. The TC end of the drivetrain was
raised to get the flat belly and the whole engine/trans/tc was moved back ~4" for the front suspension. The 6l90 is an inch or so longer than a 6L80, so add
that to the mix and the left side of the tc no longer fits under the hump in the floor. There was lots of cutting.


Passenger side is easy.

Back of it at the "B" lower Hz.

Where it kicks out to go around the TC.

Still have to add a bit of tube for the sub belts of the harnesses. Going to make a hump over tc for better airflow around it. It's tight. The top rectangular
section will be removable so I have access to the top bolts of everything.

All this trans tunnel stuff is getting welded, to the floor and the tube. This will get some strength back in the floor. There were a number of tub x-members and
stiffeners that have been removed or cut through. It will also stiffen the seat mounts.


==========================================================================================================================



Got some more done on the tunnel around the TC. Now that I have more room to make room around the
trans, I'm going to run the seat mount tube to the
firewall and redo what I'm not happy with, which is everything up there.

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4433134)
I've almost burned through the 44lb spool of .035 wire too.

It died yesterday.

I believe I'll have a couple bypass shocks showing up soon, so I can get started on running the
cage forward.


Swapped out the 2" cross bar for a 1.75" bar that my old steering column mounts fit. Lots of room
for the ac unit too.

Got the rear coilover and bypass mounts done. Found an interesting quirk with the set up too.
Full two wheel droop. Both "shocks" max out at the same point (ie. they both have 16" of shaft
showing)

At ride height, they both have a bit less than 8" of shaft showing. Which is great, because I'm
getting right at 7" of two wheel bump travel.

At full two wheel bump, the bypass is about .5" from touching the rubber on the shaft while the
coilover still has has 1.5" to go.


Obviously, this is happening because the four link setup is keeping the pinion pointed at the tc by
rotating the housing, like it should. I guess I was just surprised at how much rotation is taking
place. This is where I'll have bump stops keeping the housing from hitting the frame.

Now things start to get weird. At one wheel bump/one wheel stuff I know I'll be off the bump stops
and it will use up the last bit of travel from the bypass right? That's how it works in the front.


Nope.


One wheel stuff/bump I do get a couple more inches of wheel movement up on the stuff side (tire to
tub). But at the lower shock mounts on the stuff side, they fall away. I actually get more shaft
showing. By a number of inches.

Ya, this one has me scratching my head. How do I stop wheel movement when the stuff tire just
kisses the tub without limiting two wheel bump travel?
I'm all ears.

 

[gt1guy]

thedirtman
12-22-2018 08:26 PM
Use a higher bump stop pad further out like a stair step. The axle moves towards center in when you
only stuff one wheel with the rotation. The longer the travel the more it moves.


=-================================================== ================================================== ===================
gt1guy
12-22-2018 10:02 PM

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4446442)
Use a higher bump stop pad further out like a stair step. The axle moves towards center in when you
only stuff one wheel with the rotation. The longer the travel the more it moves.

I'll have to check that out. May hang a few plumb bobs and see what hits where when.

After more pondering, I realized the one thing following a true path is the LCA's. At one wheel max
stuff they're as close as they ever get to the frame. That would take a helluva strong LCA, trying
to stop it's movement 2' from the joint.



================================================== ================================================== =====================
ExWrench
12-22-2018 10:24 PM

Hey Kevin, I've been pondering your spare tire dilemma and I like the idea of making a bolt-off
rear subframe that holds the spare laid down flat just above the ght of the spare would be about
the same height (but back a bit).


If that's a possibility, I think this would make it way-dafook user friendly:
Terminate that subframe at a pair of urethane-bushed points just above and behind the top of the
closed tailgate. From those 2 points, the tire cradle could pivot from horizontal to vertical,
making the tire and any crap in the back easier to access. The third attachment point for the
cradle at the front-most bottom center point should be a pull-pin or latched deal, while the 2
pivot points could be bolts with nylocks.

Maybe none of that ^^^ makes your pickle tingle :dunno: , but it sounds like a winner as I wear off
a few shots of Absolut from one of the few times a year I drink


EDIT: next morning potatoCAD of my inebriated suggestion from last night:






The green circle and red circle would be concentric - separated because 5
minutes in MS Paint, not SolidWorks
There, now you'll be more fully informed when you say it's a stupid idea


================================================== =======================================
thedirtman
12-23-2018 09:18 AM

Just throw the spare up top and it will give you some extra cushion for roll overs. Its shocking
how much the axles move on the long travel stuff.
You could also just run a roller where the wheel hits the tub and use it as a bump stop for
crawling. Are you going to run a sway bar in the rear. Mine limits the full droop stuff because it
cant flex that far. I have about 2" of shaft left when the sway bar picks up the tire. Thats where
I have the limit straps set anyway so I don't fully extend those expensive shocks.


================================================== ================================================== ===============

gt1guy
12-23-2018 11:27 AM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4446450)
Hey Kevin, I've been pondering your spare tire dilemma and I like the idea of making a bolt-off
rear subframe that holds the spare laid down flat just above the top of the tailgate. It appears
the weight of the spare would be about the same height (but back a bit).

If that's a possibility, I think this would make it way-dafook user friendly:

Terminate that subframe at a pair of urethane-bushed points just above and behind the top of the
closed tailgate. From those 2 points, the tire cradle could pivot from horizontal to vertical,
making the tire and any crap in the back easier to access. The third attachment point for the
cradle at the front-
most bottom center point should be a pull-pin or latched deal, while the 2 pivot points could be
bolts with nylocks.



Maybe none of that ^^^ makes your pickle tingle :dunno: , but it sounds like a winner as I wear off
a few shots of Absolut from one of the few times a year I drink


EDIT: next morning potatoCAD of my inebriated suggestion from last night:

Attachment 334758

The green circle and red circle would be concentric - separated because 5 minutes in MS Paint, not
SolidWorks There, now you'll be more fully informed when you say it's a stupid idea

I use PAD too. Paint Aided Design.

I'm picking up what you're laying down there. That's a viable option for sure. I could probably
make life easier by using a 40" tire as a spare too.

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4446498)
Just throw the spare up top and it will give you some extra cushion for roll overs. Its shocking
how much the axles move on the long travel stuff.
You could also just run a roller where the wheel hits the tub and use it as a bump stop for
crawling. Are you going to run a sway bar in the rear. Mine limits the full droop stuff because it
cant flex that far. I have about 2" of shaft left when the sway bar picks up the tire. Thats where
I have the limit straps set anyway so I don't fully extend those expensive shocks.

Yes, F&R swaybars have always been part of the plan. The closest trails for me are minimum 3-4hrs
away, so it's at least a weekend trip. The rest of the time the Jeep is on the street. Plan is to
have two different sets of bars to run. Big ol fat bar for the street that doesn't let the
suspension move much in roll and one for offroad. If that makes sense. Three piece bars that ride
inside a tube can be swapped pretty easily.

The thought of having the swaybar limit travel hadn't really crossed my mind, but yes, that's a great
point. Thanks for that.

As far as the tire rubbing on the tub, I'm really not worried about it doing any real kind of tub
damage. If anything it would be tire damage. I went kind of semi-retard in that area.:D

================================================== ================================================== ============
Rodjk 12-31-2018 01:29 PM


Hey Kevin, I know we were chatting about getting this all buttoned up by mid year, but how about Easter for the EJS?:grin2:

================================================== ======================================

KOWBOY 12-31-2018 03:10 PM
Of what year? :thefinger:


================================================== ==========================================
Rodjk 12-31-2018 04:10 PM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4447362)
Of what year? :thefinger:

Now that's being a bit facetious there, are you suggesting that Kevin can't get his finger out of his arse for the up and coming one? :faint: Like2019 :D:D


================================================== ===============================================
Mason 12-31-2018 07:43 PM

Originally Posted by Nucleophile (Post 4447370)
Someone who lives in a glass house throwing stones??

Kowboy’s Jeep is no longer “The Turd” it is now “The Jeep formerly known as The Turd”. It is almost ready for final assembly from what I understand.


================================================== ================================================== ======================


gt1guy 12-31-2018 11:36 PM
I would love to have it running by then and I'll be trying my best. But honestly, it would take a miracle work wise to pull it off. We'll see.
I just spent 3 days in bed with a bout of diverticulitis, eating antibiotics and no food. Well, I did eat once, found a can of beef broth in the pantry.......it had
expired in '06. Tasted ok.


================================================== ================================================== =================
KOWBOY 01-01-2019 04:19 AM

Originally Posted by Rodjk (Post 4447364)
... are you suggesting that Kevin can't get his finger out of his arse for the up and coming one?

Yes.

Originally Posted by Nucleophile (Post 4447370)
Someone who lives in a glass house throwing stones??

Is that like killin' two chickens with one rock?

Originally Posted by Mason (Post 4447376)
It is almost ready for final assembly from what I understand.

Sorta.

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4447384)
... found a can of beef broth in the pantry.......it had expired in '06. Tasted ok.

Always figured them dates didn't really mean much. If'n it's in a can, what can go wrong?


================================================== ================================================== ========




gt1guy
01-01-2019 01:25 PM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4447390)
Always figured them dates didn't really mean much. If'n it's in a can, what can go wrong?

Kinda my thinking too.

I'm also thinking this still looks very much like a Jeep.:thefinger:






Starting on the engine cage, shock mount, fender mount, hood mount, core support thingy structure.
I need this tube to run ~even with the bottom of the hood.






It runs from the A-pillar, through the fire wall. Would have liked to get it higher by a couple
inches but, dealing with the cowl, I don't think I'd ever have it not leak inside.......so fuck it.





Where it comes out of the firewall. It needs to come up and out before it makes the bend to follow
the hood.







Cut back the rest of the rectangular shit that ran to the factory core support so the tube can do
it's up and out thing.. Just like the rest of the Jeep, there's layers of sheet metal. So, I welded
them up and I'll put a cover plate, boxing that area off. I don't even know where all the nooks and
crannies go, I'm just figuring more leaks if I leave it alone.







And what's left from the side. Looks cleaner if you ask me.

 

[gt1guy]

================================================== ================================================== ======
Rodjk
01-01-2019 10:13 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4447384)
I would love to have it running by then and I'll be trying my best. But honestly, it would take a
miracle work wise to pull it off. We'll see.

I just spent 3 days in bed with a bout of diverticulitis, eating antibiotics and no food. Well, I
did eat once, found a can of beef broth in the pantry.......it
had expired in '06. Tasted ok.

All good mate, if you don't, I'll just have to swing by and motivate you.:drunk:


================================================== ================================================== =============
ChuckTheRipper
01-01-2019 11:47 PM
I boxed all that shit in on mine. It was completely filled with mud.



================================================== ================================================== =================

gt1guy
01-02-2019 11:30 AM

Originally Posted by Rodjk (Post 4447494)
All good mate, if you don't, I'll just have to swing by and motivate you.:drunk:

Sounds good to me brother. I'm gonna try my ass off. I'm past ready to be done building and start
beating the shit out of this thing.

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4447500)
I boxed all that shit in on mine. It was completely filled with mud.

I hear ya. As far down as I've taken this thing, I'm still finding clumps of shit in places I can't
fathom how it got there.

================================================== ================================================== ========



Treader
01-02-2019 11:49 AM

Diverticulitis that shit ain't good. I had a few people I know had that shit a few years ago.
Almost killed one of them. Nothing to be taken lightly.

As for mud, I hate mud. Went to Barnwell Mtn when it was wet (granted that was 2 years ago) and I'm
still finding that red mud/clay in every nook and cranny. When you are finished, I'll drive my Jeep
down to you to start on another one. Since you have the knowledge, the second one will go quicker.

-================================================== ================================================== ================

gt1guy
01-02-2019 11:05 PM

Originally Posted by Treader (Post 4447582)
Diverticulitis that shit ain't good. I had a few people I know had that shit a few years ago.
Almost killed one of them. Nothing to be taken lightly.

As for mud, I hate mud. Went to Barnwell Mtn when it was wet (granted that was 2 years ago) and I'm
still finding that red mud/clay in every nook and cranny.

When you are finished, I'll drive my Jeep down to you to start on another one. Since you have the
knowledge, the second one will go quicker.

Red mud....that's so funny.......fuck red mud. Shiloh Ridge, Alto Tx, 2012. It's the mud I'm still
finding.

Originally Posted by Nucleophile (Post 4447608)
Yeah, I think those guys who put a jeep grill on the front of their buggy say the same thing...….

I think you are much closer to them than you are to a stock jeep!

Great build. No, incredible build actually. And to think you are going to drive it on highways.
Wow....[/QUOTE]


Lemme get some fenders on it.:thefinger: And, thank you Sir.


================================================== ================================================== ================
KOWBOY
01-03-2019 03:46 AM

Originally Posted by Nucleophile (Post 4447608)
And to think you are going to drive it on highways. Wow....

Hope your full-hydro steerin' set up works better than the ones I've had Kevin ... or you're gonna
be limited to drivin' on the shoulder of them highways. I
never could handle one of 'em over 45 mph on pavement. And that was runnin' 3 lbs in the front
tires and a lot of toe-in to try to add some resistance. Pretty scary.

Buggies are best kept on the trails. :thefinger:


================================================== ================================================== ===========
gt1guy
01-03-2019 11:54 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4447640)
Hope your full-hydro steerin' set up works better than the ones I've had Kevin ... or you're gonna
be limited to drivin' on the shoulder of them highways.
I never could handle one of 'em over 45 mph on pavement. And that was runnin' 3 lbs in the front
tires and a lot of toe-in to try to add some resistance. Pretty scary.

Buggies are best kept on the trails. :thefinger:

I'm hoping 12* caster and 4 turns lock/lock on the orbital helps. Also going to try to get proper
Ackermann when I set up the steering parts. Then, I'm gonna cross my fingers.


================================================== ================================================== ==
gt1guy
01-09-2019 06:00 PM

More work on the engine cage.

Have the top bar running across almost exactly where the top of the core support ran. Close enough
that I had to remove the hood latch just to get the damn hood all the way down.


​

With the hood up. It's well outboard of the shocks so it can be the foundation of the flares.


​

Where I'll tie the flares into. Will need to notch the hood


​



With the first two down tube in place. All the down tubes will go to bushings. Took a bit to figure
out where to put the tubes. Had to break out the grill template so I knew where the headlights will
poke through.


​

At least I can make all the down tubes out of the scrap I made fucking up the first half of the
engine cage THREE times.



================================================== ==================================
KOWBOY
01-10-2019 06:44 AM
Sure lookin' forward to gettin' my junk done so I can focus all my attention on critizin' this
build. :thefinger:

Until then ... carry on. :grin2:

================================================== ================================================== ========
ALASHA
01-10-2019 06:52 AM


O

riginally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4448340)
Sure lookin' forward to gettin' my junk done paid for so I can focus all my attention on critizin'
this build. :thefinger: Until then ... carry on. :grin2:

FIFY :grin2:

================================================== ================================================== =
KOWBOY
01-10-2019 09:33 AM

I pay for my junk along the way. Cash on the barrelhead. No credit. Might not run ... but it's
always paid for. And I feel great about it 'cause I ain't got no doubt a-tall I could sell it in a
fuckin' heartbeat for full KBB value. Hijack over. :grin2:

================================================== ================================================== ==
gt1guy
01-10-2019 11:47 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4448340)
Sure lookin' forward to gettin' my junk done so I can focus all my attention on critizin' this
build. :thefinger:

Until then ... carry on. :grin2:

Wouldn't have it any other way.:thefinger:

================================================== ================================================== ===
Treader
01-10-2019 12:41 PM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4448364)
full KBB value

I highly doubt that. This Jeep would be listed by KBB or NADA as "rough" trade-in . So do you want
to trade? :thefinger: ​​


================================================== =========================================
gt1guy
01-24-2019 08:42 PM

Front coilover/bypass mounts are finished.

Decided to make it all one piece. Never found a happy place trying to use simple tabs and a
crossbar. Instead, my dumbass took the path that required cutting (by hand)and fitting 47
individual pieces and welding it all together.
Anyway, here's the basic layout. Shock mounts and x-member all in one. This is 3/16", everything
else is 1/8".


​​


Always saving the plugs from cutting holes with the hole saw came in handy when making the spacers.



​​


Starting to box it in.



​​

Some of the internal bracing. Everything ended up fully boxed in and sealed, so there's no place to
hold water/mud/dirt/shit.



​​


Top plates.



​​
All the little speed holes got filled with 1.75"x.120" DOM.



​​

All done and glued on to the engine cage.



​​


And yes, the bypass shocks do just poke through the hood. 1.5-2 inches maybe. You can see the holes
I had to cut in the hood. Was hoping to avoid things sticking through, you know, to keep that stock
look:thefinger:, just didn't work out.
Had to rotate the caps on the bypasses 90*, running the reservoir inboard put the tubing for it
right up against the frame at full droop. I could slide a piece of paper in the gap, but that was
it. Now the closest thing is the compression adjusters tubing which comes out of the body higher
and clears easily. It nice to be able to rotate the cap by just loosening 2 allen bolts without
dumping the nitrogen charge.

Where you see the blue tape to the rear of the shock mount is where I'll put tube connectors. That
will allow me to pull the cage if needed.


================================================== ================================================== =========
KOWBOY
01-25-2019 06:07 AM
Lookin' phenomenal as always sir.

Without a fuckin' doubt, gonna be the sexiest 4-ton buggy goin' 45 mph down the street. :thefinger:


================================================== ================================================== =
Cod
01-25-2019 06:40 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4449790)
Lookin' phenomenal as always sir.

Without a fuckin' doubt, gonna be the sexiest 4-ton buggy goin' 45 mph down the street. :thefinger:

Agreed, legal street buggy with a grill


-================================================== ================================================== =============
gt1guy
01-25-2019 10:35 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4449790)
Lookin' phenomenal as always sir.

Without a fuckin' doubt, gonna be the sexiest 4-ton buggy goin' 45 mph down the street. :thefinger:

Originally Posted by Cod (Post 4449800)
Agreed, legal street buggy with jeep grill!

Oh gosh, you guys are too much. No, really, that was just mean. :thefinger:

Everyone knows full well the speed limit at the mall is 25mph. Duh. If I'm doing 45, I'll get a
ticket.


================================================== ================================================== =======================
ALASHA
01-25-2019 10:44 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4449836)
Oh gosh, you guys are too much. No, really, that was just mean. :thefinger:

Everyone knows full well the speed limit at the mall is 25mph. Duh. If I'm doing 45, I'll get a
ticket.

Tell the cop the speedo wasnt calibrated for the new tir...err...everything. :laughing2:


================================================== ==================================================
Rodjk
01-25-2019 04:12 PM



Pull your finger out Champ, flights booked!!


================================================== ================================================== ===========================

gt1guy
01-26-2019 11:05 AM

Originally Posted by Rodjk (Post 4449864)
Pull your finger out Champ, flights booked!!

I'm hurrying, I'm hurrying.


================================================== =============================================

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
02-04-2019 07:38 PM

Finally got the body pulled. Now, I can actually finish all the jobs I already started but couldn't
finish because the drivetrain or frame was in the way. I'm really happy to be at this point.


​


On it's new body cart. It's nice to be able to roll it around. It also sits 6" lower, which will
make working around it much easier. Need to do:
Address the bottom side of ...........well......everything really. Covers for the rear UCA's. The
cover where the rear axle pokes up through the floor. All the
sheetmetal stiffeners that got chopped through. Seal weld all the cage tubes. Weld out the fuelcell
can. Weld the seams of the floor in the rear shock opening. Finish trans tunnel.
Fix firewall.(was never happy with it) Center console.
Dash.


​


Naked frame. Again, I have a lot of things to finish/do that I couldn't with the body in the way,
or just didn't want to fuck with with the body in the way
Need to do:
Install doublers, then weld the F&R UCA mounts to the doublers. Make the x-members for the F&R
LCA's removable.
Build a trans/TC mount.
Finish welding the front new frame fish plates to the factory frame. Install fish plates to the new
rear frame where it joins the factory frame. Remove factory trans x-member brackets.
Make mounts for the belly/engine skid.

Install bump cans.
Doublers where the cage tie-ins will land



​




Started with what I didn't like about the firewall. :thefinger:


​


And I found out what really hurts today. Hitting the front of your calf with a big 'ol dead blow
hammer. Fuck me running I thought I broke my leg. Right the fuck on the bone. Dead blow hammers
work.



================================================== =========================================
KOWBOY
02-05-2019 04:25 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4450812)
Finally got the body pulled ... I'm really happy to be at this point.

Reckon you'll be even happier when it goes back on. :grin2:



================================================== ================================================== ===============
Mason
02-05-2019 04:46 AM
Quote:

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4450812)
Started with what I didn't like about the firewall. :thefinger:

You missed a spot. :thefinger:



================================================== ================================================== ====
gt1guy
02-05-2019 09:39 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4450840)
Reckon you'll be even happier when it goes back on. :grin2:

Oh ya, most certainly. But I think I'll have to set the body on and pick it up a couple times. I
need to get a x-member on the frame between the cell and the axle and there's fuck all for room to
work with the axle at full bump.

But ya, the next time I hit the body bolts with the impact, it ain't coming off again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mason (Post 4450844)
You missed a spot. :thefinger:


No Sir, no I didn't.:thefinger: I was never happy with it. It was all 22ga and made from a bunch of
pieces. Very flimsy. I actually put a big crease in it one day while lifting the trans up. It's
what I ended up with when I was trying to stay with the factory dash/HVAC. Call it a compromise I
should never have taken.
Luckily Kowboy happened to come by at the right time to talk some sense into me. Now I have the
room to do it right.


================================================== ================================================== =
Mason
02-05-2019 10:20 AM
There is some factory firewall left, so yes I think you missed a spot.


================================================== ================================================== =========
gt1guy
02-05-2019 03:59 PM

Originally Posted by Mason (Post 4450906)
There is some factory firewall left, so yes I think you missed a spot.

Baby steps my friend, baby steps. Need fresh material for the next time I fuck up.



================================================== ================================================== ===========
gt1guy
02-10-2019 04:52 PM



Got a firewall I can live with now. Deeper, slightly wider and a wee bit taller. Should have good
airflow around the trans now and lots of room to get to things like bellhousing bolts. More room
for headers too.

Best part, it's one piece.

​

gt1guy
02-16-2019 09:42 AM

I can't say there isn't less room, but it's fine for me. The gas peddle will sit right up next to
the tunnel. Luckily the peddle I'm using with the PSI engine harness is a pretty straight shot
compared to the plastic one the swap kits are using. Plus, it has a metal arm, so if need be I can
reshape it.

I have a buddy who's 6'2"-6'3" and stuff him in there from time to time just to see how a taller
person fits. It's tighter than he'd want, but he says it would work. I'm only 5'9" with short legs.
Hell, my feet can't even touch the original firewall.
For the brakes, I have a Wilwood peddle. It has a smaller foot pad than the factory auto trans foot
pad. It's aluminum though, so it goes where it lands.

I also have to mount this little fella old school fella.

And my apologies for the blurry picture. I don't really drink so I'll have to blame it on just pure
stupidity.:gluging:

What is this clutch peddle thing you speak of? I have a peddle for go and a peddle to stop. Seems
pretty straight forward. :thefinger:

 

[gt1guy]

KOWBOY
02-17-2019 07:26 AM
Quote:

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4452112)
I have a peddle for go and a peddle to stop. Seems pretty straight forward. :thefinger:

Can't argue that. And it certainly eliminates all the silly thinkin' involved when tryin' to drive.
2 feet ... 2 pedals.

Funny how after drivin' my jeep for a week and then gettin' back in my comp'ny truck, takes me a
day or so to keep my left foot from tryin' to hit the clutch pedal ev'ry time I stop the truck.
:grin2:

Originally Posted by Mason (Post 4452168)
The main purpose of a stick shift is to impress high school girls. Aren’t you old enough to be
their grandpa Kowboy. :thefinger:

Yessir I am ... but I ain't tried to impress a high-school girl since I was back in junior high
school. I did enjoy your transmission drawin' tho. That's funny stuff.


================================================== ======================================

gt1guy
03-01-2019 08:13 PM

Still knocking shit off the list..................slowly.
Made a lid for the trans tunnel opening.




Made some larger footprints for the A-pillars. Seal welded the A to the floor, then put 1/8" over
it with the larger footprint. In all honesty, I doubt these will make any difference at all. It's a
straight shot through the floor to the frame tie-in and the floor is as thin as paper anyway. Good
practice for chasing holes though.
And it's a shitty pic to boot.







Did the same with the rear support for the C-pillar. At least it ties into the same structure
underneath as the factory bar did. And most of that structure is still there.:thefinger:






Ground the floor flush with the side of the stiffener under it and welded everything back together.
Much easier not having the frame in the way.




Put a cap on the shock mounts. It didn't actually need to run all the way back to the support bar
for the C-pillar (as far as the other pieces are concerned) , but I figured if I did run it all the
way, it would stiffen the two bars that have the shock mounts.

It does look kind of dumb from the side.............future winter project, me thinks.





And welded all the rest of the pieces in.






See what I mean about the side view being less than great











Now, all I need to do is everything again on the passenger side.



================================================== ================================================== ==================
ChuckTheRipper
03-01-2019 11:13 PM

Nice work. I don’t feel quite as bad about my welds anymore lol.


================================================== ===============================

gt1guy
03-02-2019 11:13 AM


Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4453736)
Nice work. I don’t feel quite as bad about my welds anymore lol.



Damn Chuck, that cage looks sharp. Well done. I dig the dimple plates.

Ya, there's welders that make art, like VicVKS, MCuttler and Simple'72CJ (who works for Art Morrison) and a few others.................................and there's the rest of us. I can make welds that are sound that would pass any test, they just ain't always pretty. I'm ok with that.


The damn thin shit drives me nuts though, and it's generally all my fault. I set myself up having to do butt
welds way too much, when I could have made life much easier setting up a lap weld, which helps to
absorb the heat.

Most of my welds are probably bigger than they really need to be. Doesn't make them weaker, or stronger. Just meqans I went too slow.

There's one thing I find myself saying a lot. Five or six coats of paint will make that
look just fine.


================================================== ================================================== ==========

ChuckTheRipper
03-02-2019 10:29 PM
Thanks brother, still about 60 ft more of tube to add and some more dimple dies lol. I feel you on
the thin shit. I fucking hate it. Love the updates though brother.

================================================== =====================================
Rodjk
03-07-2019 11:22 PM
Has this thing got some purdy Louisiana tags on it yet?

j3ff3ry_j33p 03-08-2019 05:00 AM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4453848)
Thanks brother, still about 60 ft more of tube to add and some more dimple dies lol. I feel you on
the thin shit. I fucking hate it. Love the updates though brother

.



Youve built a cage I'd feel protected from a velociraptor or Gar in, Chuck. It's awesome.
Like Kevin's build.
This made me get reexcited about ( finally) buying my hobart this month ; these discussions are my
ongoing inspiration .


================================================== =======================================
gt1guy
03-08-2019 11:00 AM

Originally Posted by Rodjk (Post 4454440)
Has this thing got some purdy Louisiana tags on it yet?

Can't say "on it" just yet unfortunately. We'll go with nearby. I did just renew the tags, so it's
good till 2020. Once it's running, I'll have to get it inspected. Hit the lights, wipers, horn,
turn signals, reverse lights and don't have gigantic cracks in the windshield. Then pay 20 bucks
for a two year sticker.
So once I have the inspection sticker I can say it's done. Unless something falls off on the way
back home.:thefinger:

================================================== ================================================== ===============

Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p (Post 4454456)

Youve built a cage I'd feel protected from a velociraptor or Gar in, Chuck. It's awesome. Like
Kevin's build.
This made me get reexcited about ( finally) buying my hobart this month ; these discussions are my
ongoing inspiration .

Get the welder, hurry up.
Being able to stick two pieces of metal together is like knowing how to hammer a nail. The
possibilities are endless.

================================================== =====================================
89yjon
03-08-2019 11:38 AM
Your jeep is looking great! Any ideas on how many hours you are into it for so far? Lol
Also, just curious if you have looked into insurance for this yet? Are you going to do a stated
value policy or ? Keep up the great work!

================================================== =============================================

Treader
03-08-2019 11:41 AM
Jeff what welder did you end up going with? I would absolutely love a welder, but have shit for
room. 22'x20' garage. It is barely big enough to hold the wife's Expo. Storage has gone from
minimal to nothing.

Didn't mean to take away from your thread. Loving the Jeep. Just makes me daydream of my
work-in-progress.


================================================== ================================================== ==
j3ff3ry_j33p
03-08-2019 11:50 AM

Originally Posted by Treader (Post 4454502)
Jeff what welder did you end up going with? I would absolutely love a welder, but have shit for
room. 22'x20' garage. It is barely big enough to hold the
wife's Expo. Storage has gone from minimal to nothing.

Didn't mean to take away from your thread. Loving the Jeep. Just makes me daydream of my
work-in-progress.


Hobart Handler 190

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
03-08-2019 05:35 PM


Originally Posted by 89yjon (Post 4454500)
Your jeep is looking great! Any ideas on how many hours you are into it for so far? Lol
Also, just curious if you have looked into insurance for this yet? Are you going to do a stated
value policy or ? Keep up the great work![/QUOTE]




No clue on the hours spent dicking around on this thing. I'll will say..........a lot. I actually
don't want to know, it'd just remind me I have no life.

Hadn't thought about the insurance to tell you the truth. I do have a stated value policy on my 69
Camaro. But it's actually worth something. Right now I have just over 61k in receipts for parts
alone for the Jeep. The tub is probably worth whatever scrap metal is going for these days. So it's
probably, realistically worth 30k........finished and running.


================================================== ================================================== =

ExWrench
03-08-2019 11:58 PM
Sir, I dig the integration of sheet metal and tubing!

Quote:

So kids, chassis options for a Jeep are: Body-on-frame
Unibody Tubular chassis

. . . and Kevin picked :cwm13: "all of the above".


maybe you could patent "tube-framed-unibody-on-frame" construction You gettin' a little
burned out on welding yet? :thefinger:

From someone who's cursed auto engineers regarding service access . . .


Quote:

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4452028)
Added some dzus tabs. Wanted this part removable for access to the top bolts of the trans/TC.

pg

Dooooood, NICE! :rockon:



. . . or . . .


. . . however you say . . .



. . . "I love you" . . .



. . . figuratively, of course . . .



. . . y'know . . .



. . . without it getting . . .


awkward, or . . .


just . . .


================================================== ================================================== ==


Rodjk
03-09-2019 03:13 PM
Good to see the progress Kevin..
You obviously won't be getting your shit done soon, so I'll have to detour my arse down to ol
Louisiana to catch up with ya. Let KOWBOY know that his Bud Lights will be safe, I'll bring
something stronger....

================================================== ================================================== =============
gt1guy
03-09-2019 04:14 PM





Unfortunately, that's true. My shit isn't going to be done any time soon. I'll be here plugging
away if I'm not offshore...............which hopefully isn't too far off.
Kowboy don't care nuthin bout no Bud Light..............it's Coors...........and he gets fierce
about it. Like a moma grizzly kind of fierce.




O

riginally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4454558)
Sir, I dig the integration of sheet metal and tubing!

You gettin' a little burned out on welding yet? :thefinger:

I vote.......all of the above. Burnt and burned out. Still having fun, but I'm really looking
forward to getting it finished. I can see light at the end of the tunnel
now and that just makes me impatient. Plus, my depth perception of where that light actually is
could be way off too.

As far as the sheet metal and tubing go. It's a match made in heaven. For me the biggest driver was
space but, it's also done by other people to make an extremely strong structure. Neither one is
very strong by itself, but when they're tied together it's strong as all hell.
Like I said, for me it was space, I have seat mounts and a TC that almost want to be in the same
place and I need a floor between them. Hit it with some dumb-dumb and slap a little stupid on it
and that's what you get.

================================================== ==================================================


gt1guy
03-24-2019 11:45 PM


Houston, we have pedals.



Didn't want to fuck around using the factory brake pedal. It's all tied into the alum frame for the
stock dash where the pivot point is. So picked up a Wilwood pedal assembly.

Had to lower where the hydroboost pokes through the firewall to meet the pedal. The Wilwood is
shorter than the stock one. Don't know the ratio of the stock system, the Wilwood is 7:1.

Just had to make a bracket that would bolt the pedal mount to the hydroboost plate with the
firewall sandwiched between. Oh, and have the pedal end up where I wanted it.
Hydroboost is a ported Vanco unit to work with full hydro steering.

New hole in firewall for the hydroboost to stick through. A little lower and a smidgen outboard.
I'll fill in all the old holes.







Pedal position from the seat. Gas pedal mount will come off the brake bracket.











Bracket installed. Drilled 3 sets of holes for the pedal mount for a little fore/aft adjustment in
the foot pad. Had to drill out and re-tap the Wilwood clevis that connects to the hydroboost
pushrod.

 

[Will Scarlet]

You sir are a machine with the reposting effort on this thread. 🍺

 

[gt1guy]

You sir are a machine with the reposting effort on this thread. 🍺

Thanks man.

It will all get added here. It has become a pain with having to add each link to each pic, then upload each pic one at a time. It's just more clicks per post to bring over, not the end of the world. It will really be nice when it's all caught up.

I'm kind of looking forward to the build getting moved over to Gen4x4, more traffic by folks who have done build just as involved and hopefully they'll share their lessons learned/ideas.

In other news. I've been getting the radiator mounting installed. Had to wait for new tube connectors to arrive to complete the pass side front fender. (those arrived last week). Got most of the fish plates cut out for the rear frame section where it tie into the factory frame. Hopefully I can get them tacked in place, will have to pull the tub again to weld them out.

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
03-25-2019 12:14 AM




Steering column time. Couldn't end up using the Woodward column I already had(too long), so I
picket up one from PSC. Really nice piece. Comes with a Woodward u-joint and a Joes Racing Products
QR. Honestly, the Joes QR has a bit more play in it than the Woodward QR I already had on the Woodward column, but the Woodward cost probably three times as much. I guess you get what you pay for.

Maybe one day I'll cut off the Joes splines and swap them for the Woodward, sounds like a good winter project after the thing is running







Top bracket cut/bent/welded and clamp mounted.






Bottom bracket made and clamp mounted. Bracket bolts to the new firewall and the brake bracket in
two places.












Here's what I have sticking through the firewall. Need to get a grommet seal, to seal off the hole.








Where the wheel ended up. Very happy with the position. Top of the wheel is at the bottom of the
windshield is in my view from the seat. Straight shot through the wheel to where the gauges will
sit.









So here's where both pedals ended up. Not cramped at all, brake is a few inches in front gas like
it should be. All is good in the world. I'm not going to lie, there were more than a few times I've
really wondered how the pedal placement was going to work out.









==================================================================================


ChuckTheRipper
03-25-2019 03:15 AM



You know it’s pedal right? Unless you’re referring to flowers lol. Nice update!


================================================== ================================================== =========================


Uncle Sams Misguided Child
03-25-2019 05:50 AM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4456200)
You know it’s pedal right? Unless you’re referring to flowers lol. Nice update!

Hey, He's a delicate little flower, he knows what he is talking about. LOL



================================================== ================================================== =========================
rockystock
03-25-2019 06:20 AM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4456200)
You know it’s pedal right? Unless you’re referring to flowers lol. Nice update!

Lol the flower reference would have been petal. What kind of grammar policing are you trying to
peddle here??



================================================== ================================================== =========================
ChuckTheRipper
03-25-2019 06:49 AM

Originally Posted by rockystock (Post 4456210)
Lol the flower reference would have been petal. What kind of grammar policing are you trying to
peddle here??

Good call lol


================================================== ================================================== =====================
gt1guy
03-25-2019 10:40 AM


So am I stupid or is Chuck stupid? Or is it a tie? My guess would be a tie.

I had more to say but, I scampered to my safe space for a self inflicted time out.


================================================== ================================================== ================================

Treader
03-25-2019 11:41 AM
I hope it's just me, but the picture take from the seat view of the "petals" from post #582 looks
cramped with the A-pillar support. I'm sure it's not and it's just the angle.

Spring is in the air with all this flower talk. Did tend to the garden and flower beds this
weekend.

================================================== ============================================

ChuckTheRipper
03-25-2019 11:47 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4456240)
So am I stupid or is Chuck stupid? Or is it a tie? My guess would be a tie.

I had more to say but, I scampered to my safe space for a self inflicted time out.

I may be dumb, but I’m not stupid! Lol but both kinda. It is pedal. But peddle like you used means
to try and sell something, not flower like I mentioned. Lol.

================================================== ================================
gt1guy
03-25-2019 03:57 PM

Originally Posted by Treader (Post 4456248)
I hope it's just me, but the picture take from the seat view of the "petals" from post #582 looks
cramped with the A-pillar support. I'm sure it's not and it's just the angle.

Spring is in the air with all this flower talk. Did tend to the garden and flower beds this
weekend.

Hadn't noticed it just sitting in the seat making vroom-vroom sounds. I'll measure it.

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4456250)
I may be dumb, but I’m not stupid! Lol but both kinda. It is pedal. But peddle like you used means
to try and sell something, not flower like I mentioned. Lol.

So one D you stop and two D's you're selling crack. I can remember that.


-================================================== ========================================
gt1guy
03-25-2019 04:51 PM


Here's a couple pic from when I installed the A-pillar supports. Had the door on so it might help
put it's whereabouts in perspective.












The only issue I've noticed with it, is at the bottom. Getting out you can't just flail your feet
out and jump. If you're not paying attention, you can hang a foot between the bottom of the A and
the seat..............followed by a face plant. I've been in and out so many times now I don't even
think about it.


But I've had friends come close.






So, after using up a whole roll of blue tape trying to figure out the shape of a center console I
liked for at least two days in a row, I think we have a winner.

Started out thinking a straight, raised, flat console would be the way to go. Well, turns out
anything sticking above the seat height is really nothing more than a elbow magnet. Just sitting in
the seat I had the blue tape stick to my right arm enough to realize I didn't want that blue line
to be metal. It also turned the front into two separate pods with a divider. And now that I'm
thinking about it again, it most definitely would have needed rollbar padding.

Crappy pic, but you can see how much higher the blue tape was than the side of the seat in the
beginning of the process. Pic was taken when I was making the removable section in the horizontal
bar so I can get the ac unit in/out.





Also realizing a flat console didn't leave much room for a storage compartment and left a big empty
hole between the seats, I decided to make use of that space.

So, lower the part that wants to eat elbows and raise the part that doesn't.

Then, I made a storage compartment that fits between the framework. And yes, those are spun alum color coordinated cup
holders. :thefinger: $3.50ea from casinosupply.com . Got to look good pulling up to the Starbucks.








So I now have storage and am happy with the shape. Don't smack my elbow on it even waiving my arms around like a retard. Gap looks good under the storage compartment.....................









...........But........There's a removable panel for access to the top of the TC/back of the trans
sitting under it and it's covering two dzus fasteners.






I wouldn't want the storage compartment in the way when digging around in there anyway, so the
whole console frame will be removable. Pair of tube connectors at each end and just like that the
entire mess is out of the way.

Had to scratch the plan to run the little vertical pieces to the seat mount frame. They would have
been welded and turned everything into one piece.

So here we have a center console that can now be removable. I think it looks much better kind of
"floating" like it is. The plan was to make fill panels for the sides, but I'm leaving it open.






Rear view of the storage compartment. I angled it because if I ran it straight down and square,
there would be an increasing gap at the bottom that would look like ass. Plus, I want to add two
more cup holders right there.:thefinger: And as straight up gay as that sounds, I realized a long
time ago, I'm not working with a Jeep, I'm working with an empty box.








Front of the storage compartment. It tucks in behind the side of the seat. Elbows will be happy. I
have hinge and a locking compression latch on the way for the door. Haven't completely decided on
how I want the door to open. I'm leaning more toward having the hinge on the bottom and the door
falling open, rather than the hinge on the side with the door opening in a normal fashion.

 

[gt1guy]

Got the other panels fit, both still need dzus fasteners. The rear one needs the cutout for the tc
shifters and cup holders. Front one will have the stand alone ECU and fuse block sitting on it.

Blue tape will be another panel with all my switches, proportioning valve and e-brake ball valve.

edit: Off the wall question for the folks who own boats. Are Fusion stereos (head units) any good?

Not planing anything crazy, but want decent tunes. Thinking something for marine use would be best
when it's pouring down rain with no top.


---===========================================================================================================================

ChuckTheRipper
04-05-2019 05:32 AM
Love it brother. Good work. Sorry if I missed it but what size tube did you use for the center
console and such? Also, which bead roller are you using? I would imagine it’s electric and not just
a hand crank? I really need to convert mine......



==================================================================================================
Mason
04-05-2019 05:59 AM
Looking good, but it needs more triangles :thefinger:


=============================================================================================
ALASHA
04-05-2019 09:34 AM
So no arm rest? :hide:

================================================================================================

gt1guy
04-05-2019 10:46 AM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4457294)
Love it brother. Good work. Sorry if I missed it but what size tube did you use for the center
console and such? Also, which bead roller are you using? I would imagine it’s electric and not just
a hand crank? I really need to convert mine......

Thanks man. Tube for console is 1"x.095"wall DOM. It's less than a lb/ft. Bead roller is a Mittler
Bros 24". Works good. Capable of much better results than I am right now. I would like to get the
industrial motor for it. Mine really struggles with 16ga.

edit: All the console sheet metal is 18ga. Bead roller does just fine on it.

Originally Posted by Mason (Post 4457296)
Looking good, but it needs more triangles :thefinger:

Thank you Sir. Ordering more triangles.:thefinger:

Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4457330)
So no arm rest? :hide:

You funny man. Over 500hp = both hands on wheel:thefinger:


==========================================================================================

Treader
04-05-2019 11:39 AM
Made that dip to he can get trail-head from the mister...er misses sitting next to him.


-==============================================================================
ALASHA
04-05-2019 12:22 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4457336)
You funny man. Over 500hp = both hands on wheel:thefinger:

And yet it still has cup holders :laughing2:


==================================================================================
gt1guy
04-05-2019 07:46 PM

Originally Posted by Treader (Post 4457340)

Made that dip to he can get trail-head from the mister...er misses sitting next to him.

You spelled midget wrong.:D Hell, they can just walk on over.

Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4457342)
And yet it still has cup holders :laughing2:

Damn skippy. Can't trust a midget to fat finger a $27 Double Mocha Macchiato. Next thing you know,
it's all over the floor and you're tossing them out the window as you pull into the tanning salon.

Got to see the big picture my friend.

===================================================================================

gt1guy
04-21-2019 05:16 PM



Center console all done. Needs paint after whatever holes get drilled doing the wiring.

Tube connectors installed to make the whole deal removable.

Latch is a locking type with a dust cover over the key hole. Should keep the honest people out.

I tried to make the dash piece and failed miserably. It's a simple piece, really. Just a flat dash
with 2 bends at the top that make a 90*. Problem is it's 50" wide and I have a punny little $20
harbor freight 30" break'ish thing.


I tried doing it by hand with a mallet and 1/2"x 8" flat bar. I've actually done most of my sheet
metal bends this way..............that's how shitty the HF break I
have is.
Buuut, it's just too long to work. I need a 70* bend 4" from the top edge along with a 20*
bend 2" from the top edge. I can get one bend perfect, when I go for the second the 2" space
between the bends gets all wavy. I just can't constrain it enough to keep the stress from the first
bend from getting into the second bend while it's happening.

So, I'll be humping a piece of metal to the sheet metal shop so they can spend 5 minutes knocking
out what I need. And it's Easter so nobody is working this weekend.

It also looks like I'll be heading to Saudi here soon, so nothing might get done for a couple
months. I may get my head cut off, so that's a plus.

 

[gt1guy]

pvanweelden
04-21-2019 07:01 PM
I have that same piece of shit HF bender. I feel your pain lol. I added some of the usual mods to
it, but it's still a pos. And not wide enough. I need to finish my 50" finger brake.
Center console looks great!
Stay safe in Saudi. They usually only cut the heads off good looking people....;)

================================================== ================================================



gt1guy
04-21-2019 08:36 PM

Originally Posted by pvanweelden (Post 4458712)
I have that same piece of shit HF bender. I feel your pain lol. I added some of the usual mods to
it, but it's still a pos. And not wide enough. I need to finish my 50" finger brake.
Center console looks great!
Stay safe in Saudi. They usually only cut the heads off good looking people....;)

Thank man.
Here's something that pissed me off so much I had to laugh. Inside to inside of my A-pillar cage
bars is 48.5". I can't cut that out of the short side of a 48"x 96"sheet.:nono:


================================================== ================================================== ==

j3ff3ry_j33p
04-22-2019 04:31 AM

please don't get your head cut-off in Saudi . We need you to finish this build first. :thefinger:
(jk)

================================================== ================================================== ====
gt1guy
04-22-2019 10:55 AM

Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p (Post 4458720)

please don't get your head cut-off in Saudi . We need you
to finish this build first. :thefinger:

#metoo

Actually, it really doesn't matter where I go, it's always the same. Fly in, next morning I'm
offshore. At that point it's all water, platforms, and a boat or barge. It all looks the same, same
food, the divers generally act pretty much the same...........like rich semi retarded children with
differen't accents.


================================================== ================================================== ==========
gt1guy
05-03-2019 09:51 AM

Saudi ain't hot right now. It's actually quite pleasant. Next month forget it.

Head still attached to neck. Ramadan starts soon. So things will slow to a crawl everywhere.
Probably lots of guys falling out from dehydration.........cause they
can't eat or drink when the big orange ball is in the sky. Should be fun to watch.

A beer in Bahrain is $15


================================================== ================================================== ======
snout
05-03-2019 10:05 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4458780)
#metoo

Actually, it really doesn't matter where I go, it's always the same. Fly in, next morning I'm
offshore. At that point it's all water, platforms, and a boat or barge. It all looks the same, same
food, the divers generally act pretty much the same...........like rich semi retarded children with
differen't accents.

lol 300k/yr is not rich. That's a median income in some parts of the country. (sarcasm for the most
part; p.s. your center console is tits)


================================================== ==============================================

gt1guy
05-04-2019 09:20 AM
A 22 year old single kid with shit for bills, pulling in 200k and living tax free is rich in my
book. It's actually really easy to do working just 6 months of the year.

I think I was broke most of the time when I was 22. Probably stoned too.


Oh, galley guy stroked out today. Guess I might need to start keeping score.



================================================== ========================================
gt1guy
06-24-2019 12:33 AM

And so the Saudi adventure comes to a end, for a month or two anyways.

Last thing I did while on shift was to pull the trigger on the summit racing shopping cart I had
been growing. Already got the first tracking numbers and goodies should start arriving on Tuesday.

Ended up going with a AEM CD7 dash display. Went back and forth between digital or old school mech
gauges. Digital won out. And the AEM is waterproof.


================================================== ========================================
JKommuter
06-24-2019 08:14 AM
Welcome back. Now get to work!


================================================== ======================================
gt1guy
06-25-2019 05:39 PM

Originally Posted by JKommuter (Post 4464686)
Welcome back. Now get to work!

I'm on it!

Already had a box of goodies from Summit waiting at the house.

*Brackets for the 3qt Accusump
*All the 4AN fittings for the brakes, porp valve, emergency bake 1/4 turn valve
*Pushrods for when I do the trunion upgrade on the LS
*Set of the Hella super tone horns
*Orbital mounting bracket
*Stubby adapter from column to orbital
*MSD cut to length plug wires ( coils are going on firewall)
*4 corner steam kit for the LS
*Inline cooler thermostat for the trans
*Inline cooler thermostat for the LS
*Adapter plate to plumb Accusump directly into the oil galley on the block

Also had two LifeLine LL-1257TB batteries and battery trays from Armada show up a couple days ago.
Going to run one for the chassis, one for the engine and both for starting. They'll fit perfect on
the floor between the back of the front seats and B-pillar cross bar.


Right now the priority is still to get the dash sheetmetal bent up and installed. Just got a
tracking number for the AEM dash display, so that needs a dash to mount in. Other than the
headlight, wiper and cruise controller switches, everything else is done through toggle switches,
so that's a dozen or so holes that need to get drilled in some sort of organized fashion.


================================================== ======================================
gt1guy
06-29-2019 02:29 PM
My Holley Hydramat arrived for the fuel cell. The shit ain't cheap, but I've never heard anything
other than great reviews for it. My cell has a rather large footprint of 34.5"x 17.5", and I knew
there would be issues with the surge tank I bought to put in the cell. No matter where I thought to
put it, there would always be a scenario where the fuel was hiding on the other side of the cell.

Enter the Hydramat, and with one pickup hose connected in the center, it will suck fuel from any
corner at any angle. The Hydramat is 30"x14", so I should be able to use all but maybe a cup or two
of the fuel.

Sometimes you just have to make that funny face, close your eyes and hit add to cart. I did just
that. It's over. It shipped. I have it. Already forgot about the price.

Also received the AEM digital dash. It runs off a pass through on the OBDII. 7 pages of confusion
I'll be able to set up, if I so desire. Has a GPS receiver for speed.....I guess I can use it for
trail mapping too, it's the model with data logging. I can also add inputs to it, so, turn signals,
fuel level, high beams, ect. can
be displayed.

Most important, it's waterproof.


================================================== =========================================
gt1guy
07-10-2019 11:46 AM

Found a place to bend up my dash for me. Now I have to wait a week to week and a half for them to
get to it.

I guess I'm working on the frame now. All my link mounts and cross members are only tacked in
place, so there's work to be done.


================================================== ============================================
gt1guy
07-10-2019 06:31 PM


Ok, I have a real question for those of you running suspension seats.

How much "suspension " movement do you think you get out of the seats?

I have PRP Podium elite's. Where I was planning to mount the batteries was behind and somewhat
below (call it half way) the seats. Well, as luck would have it, due to the latch on the battery
box I need to raise them up 4"-5". That will put the bottom of the batteries even with the bottom
of the seats.

In that position, the batteries don't touch or push into the back of the seats. But there's maybe
1/4" between them. They're behind the metal (vertical) parts of the seat frame itself.

Problem is, I have no idea what is too close. I can literally punch the seat as hard as I can from
the front and I can't feel the battery, baut that's a pretty retarded test.



Anyone have any thoughts? Pictures:









And a really shitty pic from the side.






thedirtman , you have suspension seats don't you? What do you think?



================================================== ==============================================

 

[gt1guy]

ExWrench
07-10-2019 09:28 PM

Hey Kevin,

IMHO, you should have no safety issues, possibly a little marring on the outer cover if it
occasionally rubs. When you use the "suspension", you're deflecting the inner layer and putting the
outer wraps in tension.
Naked, your beautiful seats look similar to this:








Found a cutaway photo from PRP:






If you managed to smack the battery, I believe you'd have bigger problems unrelated to seat
proximity.

QUESTION: What about re-making the hold-downs, moving the latch to the top, and dropping the batts
where you want 'em? :dunno:




================================================== ===========================================
gt1guy
07-10-2019 10:24 PM

Dude, awesome pics. Ya, I can take the bottom seat cushion pad out and see the guts, for the bottom
at least.

It also appears that there is way more movement up/down where your butt sits as opposed to fore/aft
in the back rest. I tried sticking a battery under the seat, had about three inches to the
suspension part. I could easily push my hand down and touch the battery.

I hear ya on moving the latch and that's what I may do. I really want those batteries in that spot.
Just want to make sure I keep the use of my legs when it's all said and done.

Sad part is there are two perfectly sized spots right behind the C-pillar. But I don't want to slap
another 50lbs directly over the axle, when I already have 250lbs of fuel sitting directly behind
the axle.

 

[gt1guy]

ExWrench
07-11-2019 07:23 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4466038)
It also appears that there is way more movement up/down where your butt sits as opposed to fore/aft
in the back rest.

Yeah, if all goes well, the seat will see a lot more vertical hits than fore-aft :D

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4466038)
I hear ya on moving the latch and that's what I may do. I really want those batteries in that spot.
Just want to make sure I keep the use of my legs when it's all said and done.

You know I dig modifying crap to the point of ridiculously unique, so just let me know if you want
to be talked into another time suck

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4466038)
Sad part is there are two perfectly sized spots right behind the C-pillar. But I don't want to slap
another 50lbs directly over the axle, when I already have 250lbs of fuel sitting directly behind
the axle.

What's going to end up in those two "perfectly sized" spots?
If it's 2 ammo cans with 100lbs of shit, maybe they should live behind the seats and the batteries
were destined for that "easy" spot. :dunno: Discounting the weight balance issue; on a road trip,
would 2 dry boxes or lockers behind those seats provide absolutely kick-ass convenience?

If it's a race missile, I get compromising convenience for performance at all costs. If it's a toy
race missile, I'd give convenience equal weighting.

EDIT: I can't wait to see this monster together. :rockon: Hurry the fawk up and give me more eye
candy! :thefinger:

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
07-12-2019 09:55 AM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4466116)

Hurry the fawk up and give me more eye candy! :thefinger:

How's this.

POF 308, FLIR PTS736 6x-24x Thermal. Just got the thermal need to sight it in after whatever storm
passes in the next couple days.

Let the revolution begin at night.........or not.

==========================================================================================
gt1guy
07-12-2019 10:51 PM

New homes for the batteries. Not fucking with the boxes. They'll be more out of the way here. Spine
is safe for now.

That gun was just swept away in the flooding here. Crazy




========================================================================================
Dkjeep
07-14-2019 08:13 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4466138)
How's this.


POF 308, FLIR PTS736 6x-24x Thermal. Just got the thermal need to sight it in after whatever storm
passes in the next couple days.

I'll see your flir and raise you a trijicon. The yotes are droppin like flys. I'm ready to get on
some hogs soon. (Not the ex wife type of hog)

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
07-15-2019 03:40 PM

Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4466316)
I'll see your flir and raise you a trijicon. The yotes are droppin like flys. I'm ready to get on
some hogs soon. (Not the ex wife type of hog)

Very nice. Tell me about the rig? How do you like the Trijicon?

=============================================================================
Dkjeep
07-15-2019 03:58 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4466424)
Very nice. Tell me about the rig? How do you like the Trijicon?

That one is chambered in that new wilson combat 300 hamr. Thermal is real nice. I have wanted night
vision for a couple of decades now and when I finally decided to do it and started reading about
what to get I found out that the tech for thermal has really come on strong and is not near as
fragile or sensitive to conditions. They each have their place but I went with the thermal and
don't regret it. Too many hobbies...

==========================================================================================

gt1guy
07-15-2019 09:43 PM

Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4466426)
That one is chambered in that new wilson combat 300 hamr. Thermal is real nice. I have wanted night
vision for a couple of decades now and when I finally decided to do it and started reading about
what to get I found out that the tech for thermal has really come on strong and is not near as
fragile or sensitive to conditions. They each have their place but I went with the thermal and
don't regret it. Too many hobbies...

That sounds like a hell of a round. I had never heard of it before. I'm impressed.

I bought a PVS14 a few years ago, and have ran it behind a Nightforce scope on my AR15. That
actually worked pretty good, but the PVS14 is only rated to 5.56, so it's a no go on the 308. Far
as I can tell, thermal doesn't care what it goes on.

Sadly, they were both lost in the flood.


=====================================================================================
Dkjeep
07-16-2019 09:05 AM
I dont wanna drag your thread too far off topic than we already have.

It's just another bastardized round where a 30 cal projectile is crammed into a 5.56 case. Think
300blk on steroids. It maintains small ar platform and the only thing I had to do to change to this
caliber was change the barrel. All other parts are the same.

==============================================================================================

gt1guy
07-30-2019 06:35 PM

Been slow going lately. Got the dash sheetmetal bent. Only get one try at it, so not taking chances
on fucking it up. Anyway, here's the full piece trimmed to fit between the A-pillars. Still needs
to be trimmed on the bottom.

Bottom trimmed up to mate to the piece coming up from the console.

Kind of the layout of where things will be.

Finally installed the V support for the A-pillar Hz's. Need to trim the dash to fit around it, so
I've ran out of excuses for not doing it yet.

Added two more bars running back to the B-pillar. Wanted somewhere to stick a CB or Ham. Fit
perfect between the Spod and the visor thingy.

And while I was raining sparks on my windshield, I modified the factory windshield frame mounts and
stuck them on the cage.

This is where the shifter will live. Gave it it's own mount, dash sandwiches between the mount and
the shifter.

Going to end up having to split the dash in half, vertically, right at the shifter. Doing that will
make life so much easier when it comes time to actually work on shit under there. Taking half the
dash out to work on the AC, without having to deal with the driver side half will be worth it all
by itself.