Blue Jeep build

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
07-30-2019 06:57 PM

Also been playing with the AEM dash design program for the digital dash.

You can literally display any and all of the info running on the canbus in any layout you want,
over multiple pages. Warning lights anyway you want them. This pic was early on but kinda shows
what I'm going for......more of an analog look.

The dash also has GPS and logging, so I guess I can map trails as I go.



=====================================================================================
ALASHA
07-31-2019 06:32 AM
KM/H??????? Are you moving to Canada?


======================================================================================

gt1guy
07-31-2019 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4467718)
KM/H??????? Are you moving to Canada?

Happy now:thefinger:

=======================================================================


ALASHA
07-31-2019 10:31 AM
Quote:

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4467736) Happy now:thefinger:

=============================================================================

j3ff3ry_j33p
07-31-2019 10:34 AM
:nono:


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D94R
07-31-2019 11:59 AM
Hey, I just liked the picture of an image of the computer screen...


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Cod
07-31-2019 06:04 PM
Tis one nice Jeep buggy.......>:)


=========================================================================
gt1guy
07-31-2019 06:10 PM

Originally Posted by D94R (Post 4467758)
Hey, I just liked the picture of an image of the computer screen...

It's all on the computer screen, till it gets downloaded into the dash display.


And you're right, all this shit is way over my head. There's a pretty good chance I'll end up
plowing into a tree at 80 ALASHA's per hour while I'm staring at neat colors on the screen.

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
07-31-2019 06:12 PM
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cod (Post 4467790)
Tis one nice Jeep buggy.......>:)


:nono:


gt1guy
09-16-2019 01:58 PM

Ok, where was I with this thing? I've been slacking. Got the dash trimmed up to fit the lower part.

Then I realized I screwed up with the angles I had them bend the sheet to. I don't know....I still
think 70* + 20* = 90*. Anyway, I had a gap where It should
have touched the dash bar. But since I had to chop a bit out of the center for the windshield V, it
turned that long run into two short ones and I beat it into submission.

Mounted the Accu-Sump for the LS behind the pass seat and stuck a 10lb AFFF system behind the
driver seat.

Making the hard lines for the fire syst now. Rear brake line next, as it will run through the tub
from the firewall/porp valve/ emergency brake ball valve, to where it will catch a ride on an upper
link.

I've got other stuff done, guess I didn't take any pictures. I'll try to fix that and post up.


Tub isn't too far from getting slathered in seam sealer/lizzard skin/paint. I'm just trying to get
all the little BS mounts done so I'm not destroying new coating for something stupid.

Oh, and I have 6- 321stainless 2into1 collectors on their way for the headers:D

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
09-26-2019 11:08 AM

Still mounting all the bits and pieces.

Ran into a little snag though with the ARB compressor. I just opened the box after having it here
for probably 3 years. Noticed something that looked a bit funky and found this.

The ARB box is in perfect condition, so I never thought it might have taken a hit along the way.
Looking through the part numbers of replacement parts, it's not listed. It seems like it's just
part of the whole compressor bit. Kinda sucks.

Who is the goto for all things ARB in the states? Marcus? Anyone else? I don't even remember who I
bought it from. Hopefully I can get that top part of the compressor and not have to buy the whole
thing.



Next snafu was the harnesses. The Schroth harnesses I have, have the snap hooks on the ends of the
lap and sub belts, they use an eye bolt. Well, I forgot about that. I welded on the double shear
belt mounts from RuffStuff that are made to use a bolt.
Seemed simple enough to get a bunch of the Schroth bolt-in ends. Oh, no, they're bolt in ends are
too short. The webbing would end up rubbing on the top of the RuffStuff mounts. So, digging through
everyone's bolt in mounts, I find what I need from G-Force. Now I can re-wrap 16 harness
ends.......yaaaa.

At least harness ends are cheap.:homersimpson: Decided to roll the bottom on the dash around the
cross bar to make it look a little cleaner, then left it alone where it lines up with the console
part. Happy with the way it came out.

Figured out where I wanted the ECU to mount. On the firewall inside the tub and out of the way.

I wonder what wont fit next?

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
09-26-2019 01:44 PM

Oh, and because I have locked myself into building a set of 321 stainless Tri-Y headers, I just
ordered a Miller Dynasty DX 210 water cooled TIG setup. I've needed to get a TIG welder for years,
just never got around to it.

Now I need to go buy another 300scf bottle for pure argon. Fuck renting them. After 6 months you're
loosing money. I love new toys.


===============================================================================

ChuckTheRipper
09-26-2019 07:22 PM

Dash looks great. Big spender on the Miller. I went with a prime weld tig 225x. It’s certainly not
a Miller water cooled, but it’s suited me great and I’ve been extremely happy with it thus far.


================================================================================================


gt1guy
09-26-2019 09:49 PM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4471298)
Dash looks great. Big spender on the Miller. I went with a prime weld tig 225x. It’s certainly not
a Miller water cooled, but it’s suited me great and I’ve been extremely happy with it thus far.

Only reason I went water cooled is I know some day I'll have it cranked all the way up welding
alum.

Plus, Cyber Weld has a "get a free welding hood or $350 off deal going on. I already have a hood I
like and $350 is half of what the water cooler costs.



========================================================================================
KOWBOY
09-28-2019 10:01 AM


Most satisfyin' to be seein' all the top-notch progress bein' made again sir.

But damned if you ain't movin' slow as fuck. Reckon the chance of me joinin' up with ya for a trail
ride 'fore I die is just gettin' slimmer and slimmer ...
:thefinger:


-======================================================================================
gt1guy
09-28-2019 10:24 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4471382)
Most satisfyin' to be seein' all the top-notch progress bein' made again sir.

But damned if you ain't movin' slow as fuck. Reckon the chance of me joinin' up with ya for a trail
ride 'fore I die is just gettin' slimmer and slimmer ...
:thefinger:

Thank you Sir.

I hope I can be done before I die too.

I'm in the process of trying to get every tab, bracket, stud, whatever installed in the tub, so I
can Lizzard skin it and paint. Still have a bunch of work to do on the frame before the tub can go
back on.
=====================================================================================================



gt1guy
10-10-2019 05:27 PM

Well, I got a replacement pump for the ARB twin. $110 from Poly. So now I'll have a spare elect
motor since only the housing was fucked up. Compressor sitting in it's new home. Battery boxes have
been welded down. Battery separator bolted in place.

Mounted the little ARB manifold under the dash. It will feed the two mechanical air switches on the
dash for the lockers. There will be a line from it to another manifold for filling tires and what
not.

Other manifold. Figured right between the doors was as good a spot as any. Centrally located and
all that jazz.

New washer bottle found a home on the firewall.

Spod found a home on the other side. It's the only electrical boxish thing that will reside outside
of the tub.

Oh, gotta have high beams.:thefinger:

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
10-10-2019 06:05 PM


Had to make a little bracket to hold the brake switch to the Wilwood pedal. Have to run a brake
switch with 4 connections because the signal for the brakes and cruise control are opposite of each
other.

Fire extinguishers have a home now. Out of the way.

These mounts.......

Are for these waterproof LED dome lights. 2- 6" in front, a 12" on the rear B-pillar and a 18" on
the C-pillar. All will be on there own switches. Oh, and the license plate light snuck in there
too.

With the hotrod style wiring going in this hunk of shit, I decided to forgo all the relays and
fancy wiring to make the power windows go up and down.............because I found what is called a
polarity switching switch. Never heard of them before.

Just connect B+ and B- to the center posts and the polarity switches depending on which way the
toggle is moved on the other two posts Bottom looks like this: Took the pic while I was giving it a
test run. Works fantastic.

New welder arrived. Ordered a 300cu/ft bottle, have to wait a week for it to show up.

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
10-10-2019 06:53 PM


Then it was the soft tops turn to get it's box ticked. Looks good. Like a stock ........... slightly modified Jeep.

But like everything else on this stupid thing..........nothing bolts right back up, nothing is as
it seems.

Only thing that didn't need touching was the rear surround.

Front surround needed lots of trimming. The bit that goes around the factory cage with the long
bolt through it had to be all cut off. Ended up welding a threaded insert in the new cage to hold
it in place.

Had to make a mount for the top of the B-pillar to hold everything in place. Kept the mount low
profile and used a spacer, so when it's topless there isn't curb feelers sticking out.

Now just because I said I didn't have to hack up the rear surround, doesn't mean it fit either. The
part that goes around the factory cage didn't go around the new cage like the front surround.
RuffStuff had 2" tube clamps on sale so I had bought a few. Didn't realize how robust they would
be. Anyway, made a removable way to mount the rear surround.

Didn't realize I have no pic of the fix. Here it is with the tube clamp in place. All I did was
weld a short piece of tube that the bolt goes through to the clamp.

Here's the neat part. I don't need to run the bows for the top. New cage sits higher and takes the
place of the bows.
Also, the rectangular alum tube that slides through the top just above the rear
window..............don't need it either. Found that out after fucking with it for half
a day.

=======================================================================================



Still waiting on two Dakota Digital boxes. One for the cruise control and a VSS signal conditioner.
Both need to get mounted under the dash.

Ordered a waterproof bussmann fuse box like the Painless harness uses. The PSI engine harness is
made for hotrods that don't try to float, so I'm going to transfer everything over to the
waterproof fuse box. Should end up much cleaner.

I believe I have everything I need marked out on the dash, so I'm about to dive into that here
soon.

=======================================================================================
terrahawk
10-19-2019 07:36 PM
Looking good Kevin, had to put my project on hold for a bit, gettingvit rolling again.


======================================================================================
KOWBOY
10-20-2019 04:34 AM
The high-beam switch is most assuredly what all the Cool Kids are runnin'! Gonna run the
wires for the dome lights inside the cage? That's what TNT did with mine.

I thought I wasn't gonna run the top bow neither but then added it back in to try to cut down on
the flappin' noise some. Helps a lil'. My shit's still loud tho.

Looks like fire extinguishers might be a lil' tricky to get to in a hurry. And if'n ya ever need
'em .... you're gonna be in a hurry.

And that's all I got for now ... 'til ya post up more pics. :thefinger:


==========================================================================================
gt1guy
10-20-2019 09:15 AM

Originally Posted by terrahawk (Post 4472556)
Looking good Kevin, had to put my project on hold for a bit, gettingvit rolling again.

Thank you Sir. Get back on yours as soon as you can. That thing is sweet.

I learned the hard way about stepping away from a project for a while. I have a '72 Camaro still
sitting in my carport I haven't touched in years. My New Years resolution was to at least move it
into the shop.........it's still in the carport. Only have two months left to at least do
that.:nono:

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4472570)
The high-beam switch is most assuredly what all the Cool Kids are runnin'!

Gonna run the wires for the dome lights inside the cage? That's what TNT did with mine.

I thought I wasn't gonna run the top bow neither but then added it back in to try to cut down on
the flappin' noise some. Helps a lil'. My shit's still loud tho.

Looks like fire extinguishers might be a lil' tricky to get to in a hurry. And if'n ya ever need
'em .... you're gonna be in a hurry.

And that's all I got for now ... 'til ya post up more pics. :thefinger:

No, not going to run the wires through the cage. Mainly, because I don't trust my wiring
skills.........cause I don't have any. I can also see the cage looking like
swiss cheese by the time I'm done.

I can't even put the top bows where they're supposed to go anymore. The cage being a few inches
higher blocks them. Right now the top is drum tight, tighter than it was before. If it ends up
being loud, I'll have to come up with another way to quiet it down. But, as it sits, the top is ass
tight against both B-pillars, the C-pillar and the X that all the center bars form. You can't stick
a finger between them.


I'm actually worried that the top being 7 years old might start blowing apart at the seams.

The extinguishers. Ya, that wasn't my first choice to locate them. Original plan was down on the
outboard sides of the seats......................until I installed the
seat belt mounts. Wasn't going to compromise the belt mounting, so the extinguishers found a new
home. You can still get to them with one hand while seated, so that's why they ended up there.

Beside if MY Jeep is on fire, first thing I'm doing is pulling this on the dash......

That will activate the 5liter AFFF system, with nozzles on the driver and passenger, 2 nozzles on
the engine and 2 nozzles on the fuel cell. The system creates 30liters of foam and it wont blow
away in the wind like a gas would. It also cleans up with water and I can recharge it myself.
I figured I've spent many thousands of dollars on fancy parts, might as well spend a few hundred on
keeping it all from going up in smoke. Oh ya, every time I sit in the seat, I give the high beam
switch a couple clicks. It is what the cool kids have.:thefinger:



===================================================================================================
gt1guy
10-25-2019 08:38 AM

Ya know what doesn't help getting things done?

Running out of mig wire at 1730 in the evening with two inches left on what you were welding.
I was waiting for the the bottle to run out, pressure gauge would barely move when you open it,
never thought to check the wire. Guess what I'm doing today? Gas and wire. And I'm still waiting
for a argon bottle to show up.



======================================================================
ExWrench
10-25-2019 12:27 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4472854)
Ya know what doesn't help getting things done?

Running out of mig wire at 1730 in the evening with two inches left on what you were welding.
I was waiting for the the bottle to run out, pressure gauge would barely move when you open it,
never thought to check the wire. Guess what I'm doing today? Gas and wire. And I'm still waiting
for a argon bottle to show up.

Buy a second gas bottle and stock a spare spool of wire, you cheap bastard? :thefinger:
(Full disclosure: I've been in that exact same situation :homersimpson: )

EDIT: I keep a small spool of flux-core wire on hand for when I eff up restocking and need to get a
little bit more done. Like car insurance, it's good to have "so you won't need it" per Murphy's
Law.



=============================================================================
gt1guy
10-25-2019 06:28 PM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4472868)
Buy a second gas bottle and stock a spare spool of wire, you cheap bastard? :thefinger:
(Full disclosure: I've been in that exact same situation :homersimpson: )

EDIT: I keep a small spool of flux-core wire on hand for when I eff up restocking and need to get a
little bit more done. Like car insurance, it's good to have "so you won't need it" per Murphy's
Law.

I really need to buy a second bottle. Today was the first time I've ever been able to bring my
bottle in and have them fill it the same day. Normally it's a day or two wait. A second bottle
would come in handy. One of these days.

Now that I finally have a tig machine, I guess I'll need two spare bottles. $300 a bottle adds up
pretty fast though. The wire..........I have no excuse:nono:

Honestly, running out of wire might have been a blessing. The gauge on the bottle wasn't even
registering anymore and I was welding at 6 o'clock with a mirror. Not a good place to run out of
gas. No way to get a grinder in to fix a mess if it happened.

Ya........a blessing.....that's what it was.


=================================================================================
ExWrench
10-25-2019 09:34 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4472876)
Honestly, running out of wire might have been a blessing. The gauge on the bottle wasn't even
registering anymore and I was welding at 6 o'clock with a mirror. Not a good place to run out of
gas. No way to get a grinder in to fix a mess if it happened.


Ya........a blessing.....that's what it was.

Ounce of time lost + ton of rework time saved = take the win :rockon:

I bought a second bottle after one of those "ran out right after welding store closed for weekend"
:pissed: moments. It now enables my cheap bastardy desire to "get my money's worth" out of a
bottle.












(because that last 1/4 oz of gas makes the bottle fill a better deal :homersimpson: ) I figure that
2nd bottle oughtta' pay for itself . . . in maybe 5 or 10 lifetimes

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
10-26-2019 08:45 AM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4472880)
Once of time lost + ton of rework time saved = take the win :rockon:

I bought a second bottle after one of those "ran out right after welding store closed for weekend"
:pissed: moments. It now enables my cheap bastardy desire to "get my money's worth" out of a
bottle.
(because that last 1/4 oz of gas makes the bottle fill a better deal :homersimpson: ) I figure that
2nd bottle oughtta' pay for itself . . . in maybe 5 or 10 lifetimes

I know what you mean. I'll try to pull a vacuum in the bottle before I get it filled. It's stupid,
I know it, I still do it. You should see what I still call a good flapper wheel.



============================================================================================================
pvanweelden
10-29-2019 12:36 PM
Congrats on the Miller Tig, Kevin! awesome machine!
i now have 4 bottles, sucks, hear your pain on that, but running out on a friday night sucks :(
Jeep is looking great! keep up the good work!


===========================================================================================
gt1guy
10-29-2019 11:03 PM

Originally Posted by pvanweelden (Post 4473054)
Congrats on the Miller Tig, Kevin! awesome machine!
i now have 4 bottles, sucks, hear your pain on that, but running out on a friday night sucks :(
Jeep is looking great! keep up the good work!

Thank you Sir.

Ya, I've decided to get a couple more bottles, one for the mig and one for the tig. I did have a
message on my phone that the argon bottle I ordered finally showed up.

Guess I get to weld all my little pieces of scrap together now. Haven't ran a tig torch in years. I
did buy a bench grinder I'll just use for tungstens and I'm sure I'll spend more time at the
grinder than the torch for a while.:D



In other news:

The tub is back on the frame.

The rear four cage tie-ins are tacked in place.

Last few pieces of the rear inner fenders are tacked in place, so that's pretty much sheetmetal
work complete on the tub.

Rear sway bar tube is installed.

All the harness attachment points are done.

Engine cage is back on.

Mocking up a radiator to see what size I can stuff in there and get that
ordered.

Need to find a place for the remote oil filter, which also has a thermostat for feeding the engine
oil cooler, so it's a four hose deal. Also have to find a place for the thermostat for the
transmission lines going to their cooler. And the radiator overflow tank....and the remote
reservoirs for the shocks.....and the
headlights.......and the horns.....and the bump stops......and the steering valve......and I know
there's more too.


gt1guy
10-30-2019 08:14 PM

Ok, finally remembered to bring my camera inside..........now where was I?

Slapping the tub back on the frame was the first time I've seen the space between the new firewall
and the engine/transmission. I'm happy as fuck to report that I'm happy as fuck.


Top of the firewall to engine.

Passenger side of engine.

Drivers side of engine.

Back of the engine to firewall.

Passenger side of the transmission.

Drivers side of the transmission.

And at the back of the TC.

Very happy with the clearance between everything. Room for exhaust. Floor shouldn't have any hot
spots, good air flow around everything. Have to remember too, that's with nothing hanging lower
than the bottom of frame.



====================================================================================================
ExWrench
10-30-2019 09:09 PM

Kudos, dude!
Looks like you left room to work on everything *
Mechanics everywhere should beam with admiration for your well-placed priorities.

. . . but automotive design engineers probably loathe your very existence


* I hope I didn't jinx you by saying that :thefinger:


=================================================================
gt1guy
10-30-2019 09:17 PM


Door wiring marked and ready for it's turn.

Here's how I did the tie-in on the C-pillar. Half ended up on the outside and half on the inside.
Kinda retarded, ya sure, but it's how things fell together. I'll just fill the gaps in the tub
opening with some closed cell foam to make it water tight.

Rear harness mounts and the swaybar tube ended up getting combined together. With the swaybar tube
in it's location, I could finally finish the rear inner fenders. Probably over a year start to
finish on the inner fenders........pretty sad.

Can't hit up the sales a Nordstroms without being street legal:thefinger:

You know what's stupid? I tell ya what's stupid. Putting allen head hardware on a set of fucking
allen wrenches. How the fuck are you supposed to tighten it up?

Fuel filter and reg waiting on mounts. Thinking about running hard line for the fuel, especially
where it's inside the tub.

 

[gt1guy]

Here's that remote oil filter/thermostat I mentioned before. It's set to open at 205*

And the thermostat for the trans cooler. It can be used for anything really, hell, it says engine
on it. It's set to 165*

For when the plumbing starts in anger, I got this crimper. Have dies for everything from 1/8" to
2", so brake lines to radiator hose.

Started mocking up the radiator and cooler locations. Coolers are all Setrab, cardboard for the
radiator was much cheaper.

Will have lots of room between the back of the radiator and the front of the engine.

==================================================================================================

gt1guy
10-30-2019 09:54 PM

Well, ok...............this is actually a picture of the trans thermostat.

That other picture was of a rear spindle before it got welded to the axle tube.


=================================================================================================

gt1guy
10-30-2019 10:04 PM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4473190)


Looks like you left room to work on everything *
Mechanics everywhere should beam with admiration for your well-placed priorities.

. . . but automotive design engineers probably loathe your very existence

* I hope I didn't jinx you by saying that :thefinger:

Thank you kind Sir. I was not happy at all with the first attempt. Way too many places where I
couldn't even stick a finger, let alone a wrench. Plus I knew every tight spot would turn out to be
a hot spot on the floor. Fuck that, I want my ac to work.


=========================================================================================
ChuckTheRipper
10-31-2019 01:59 PM

Nice updates. Hell of a crimping tool. What brand/model? That’s gotta be an expensive purchase.


==========================================================================
gt1guy
11-01-2019 11:06 AM

Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4473236)
Nice updates. Hell of a crimping tool. What brand/model? That’s gotta be an expensive purchase.

I picked it up from Discount hydraulic hose. From my research these are the folks that make it. I
got the D100. It's actually sold by a number of companies as the crimper to use for their fittings.

https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/hydraulic-hose-crimpers.html

No, it wasn't cheap. Most quality tools aren't. I went with the buy once, cry once, thinking.

If you look on the BMRS site, who is unquestionably the top manufacture of hoses and fittings, it's
the same crimper. BMRS just put their stickers on it.
http://www.bmrs.net/equipment_tooling_01.html


===============================================================================================
gt1guy
11-02-2019 09:55 AM

Oh for fucks sake. I'm headed to Egypt on monday. Figured maybe I'd get a flight to Dubai and a
quick shot to Hurghada. OOOoh no...............Houston to Istanbul, Turkey with a fucking 8hr
layover. Then the flight to Hurghada.

Three damn days it will take. Doesn't Turkey hate us?

Who's flown Turkish Airlines? Do they suck as bad as the American carriers? I've done Lufthansa and
British Airways recently, BA was pretty much just like a flight on American or United, sucked.
Lufthansa was a little better.

I got spoiled from all the flights to Dubai on Emirates over the years. Emirates rocks.

And lets not forget 5 days of safety training is waiting for me in Egypt before I can go offshore.
I've always said I can do anything for a week..............guess I get to test that
theory.:thefinger:


=================================================================
Punchlikeaflea
11-15-2019 09:49 PM

Heyo! I might have missed it but Whacha running for a fuel pump and fuel setup?? Edit nvm my
dumbass scrolled up far enough [emoji23][emoji23]

===========================================================================================


gt1guy
11-21-2019 05:59 AM

To answer my own question. Yes, Turkish airlines suck. It was like going back in time 20 years.
After having worked with Egyptians for a bit now............there is
NO fucking way they built the pyramids. Not a chance. And for the post above this one:
Bosch 044hp fuel pump.

===========================================================================
gt1guy
12-03-2019 03:34 AM
Water buffalo isn't too bad.

===========================================================================
j3ff3ry_j33p
12-03-2019 03:47 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4473192)
...
You know what's stupid? I tell ya what's stupid. Putting allen head hardware on a set of fucking
allen wrenches. How the fuck are you supposed to tighten it up?...

I have a similar set of metric & standard as-well-as a torq foldout that I keep in glovebox. It's
so irritating they use the same Allen headed fasteners for them as the tool supplies. I use the
metric on standard & visaversa...still P's me O every time, tho' .

:pissed: lol


==============================================================================

snout
12-03-2019 06:03 PM
Lordy, you must have drank coffee and ate Turkish delight until you shit your pants.



=======================================================================================================
gt1guy
01-11-2020 12:21 PM

Back home................fuck Egypt. Heard about all the shit going off around there and was very
glad to leave through France.

I thought Indians were the dumbest life form on earth. Nope, Egyptians firmly hold that title. It
was simply amazing. I tip my hat to them...they have taken
stupid to a level that has no words. Fuck.

In other news:

I now have everything for the ac system, minus the hoses.

Bought my aux lighting, BD 20" light bar for the front bumper, 2- BD little cube lights for the A-pillars and 2- BD little
flush mount flood/work lights to mount in the rear bumper for reverse lights.

I've never been so glad to be away from a job in my life. My damn contract stated that pay runs 35
days behind.......so......after 60+ days overseas, I haven't
actually seen a penny yet. Strange feeling.

===============================================================================================
Cod
01-11-2020 06:32 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4477980)
Back home................fuck Egypt. Heard about all the shit going off around there and was very
glad to leave through France.

I thought Indians were the dumbest life form on earth. Nope, Egyptians firmly hold that title. It
was simply amazing. I tip my hat to them...they have
taken stupid to a level that has no words. Fuck.


In other news I now have everything for the ac system, minus the hoses. Bought my aux lighting, BD
20" light bar for the front bumper, 2- BD little cube lights for the A-pillars and 2- BD little
flush mount flood/work lights to mount in the rear bumper for reverse lights.

I've never been so glad to be away from a job in my life. My damn contract stated that pay runs 35
days behind.......so......after 60+ days overseas, I
haven't actually seen a penny yet. Strange feeling.

Glad ya made it back....was in Egypt back in late 80s.....they kind of liked us back then.


==========================================================================================
FatCow
01-12-2020 12:59 AM

It's weird how things just aren't done a justice when you view them through pictures. This thing is
bad ass. Still envious of the gantry though. Thanks for letting me get that Tcase off your hands.
Already got it all ready to go in, and only broke 3 bolts splitting the case..


========================================================================================
KOWBOY
01-12-2020 06:43 AM
Welcome back Kevin. Carry on ...


===============================================================================
gt1guy
01-12-2020 09:53 AM

Originally Posted by Cod (Post 4478002)
Glad ya made it back....was in Egypt back in late 80s.....they kind of liked us back then.

I got really mixed feelings there. When I first arrived, they had rented a villa next to a marina
instead of sticking us in a hotel. Touristy place and everyone was cool.

Offshore, I'd say half the Egyptians despised the dive crew. We were a mix from all over the world.
I don't know, maybe some of them thought we were taking jobs that locals should be doing. Funny
part is, the locals only do air diving, they know nothing of saturation diving and that's why we
were there. We had an air diving crew....they were all Egyptians. Terrible divers, but they were
all cool.

I never got to go see the Pyramids, but the guys that did all said there's just tons of trash all
over the place. Apparently there's a McDonalds right next to them:nono:

Originally Posted by FatCow (Post 4478016)
It's weird how things just aren't done a justice when you view them through pictures. This thing is
bad ass. Still envious of the gantry though. Thanks for letting me get that Tcase off your hands.
Already got it all ready to go in, and only broke 3 bolts splitting the case..

Thank you Sir and it was great to meet you.................now stop breaking shit:thefinger:

Here's the link to the gantry I built:

http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1102&context=braesp

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4478026)
Welcome back Kevin. Carry on ...

Thank you Sir. I need to finish this hunk of shit. There's light at the end of the
tunnel.........and I'm pretty sure it's no longer an oncoming train.

======================================================================================
gt1guy
02-06-2020 11:57 AM

Got the silly headlights mounted. What a pain in the ass. I picked up a set of JW Speaker 6130
Evolution lights because they were 4.5" diameter, hi/lo and DOT..........just what I needed.

The problem turned out to be that I couldn't find a headlight bucket for them anywhere. Ended up
talking to JW Speaker and found out they're used mostly for when folks convert SxS's to street
legal. So, they fit in existing mounts, or, the plastic front ends on SxS's.

That doesn't help me.

So I began the fun task of creating my own buckets/mounts. I've never done this and had no fucking
idea how to pull this off. Who the hell ever has to worry about headlights.................well, I
guess I do.

So what I came up with is a combination of how "old school" headlights and aux offroad lights
mount. Here's what I started with.


The JW Speaker 6130.

Some metal pieces:

Formed a ring to slide over the body of the light. Just fits snug enough to bottom out against the
back side of the front lip on the light.

Welded a flange to the ring. The little cut outs fit over indexing tabs on the lights.

Made another flange to sit on the front of the light, around the lens and bottom out on the body.
So the two flanges are sandwiching the lip of the light between them and are what's holding it in
place. Pretty much how most headlights mount.

Little bit of primer.

Little bit of paint.

All done. Added a couple weld nuts on the side of the rings and bent up bracket so I can adjust the
things.

Installed in their new home.

Not expecting massive gains over the stock headlights. These things put out less light than the
fancy JK replacement light from JW Speaker. So we'll have to wait and see how they do.

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
02-06-2020 01:32 PM

Next up is a little protection for the fuel cell.

It's not lost on me that I now have 32gals of fuel right at the rear of the Jeep. Like, I had to
trim the tailgate to get it to close........right at the rear of the Jeep.
It's also not lost on me that the top of the cell is inside the Jeep.

Most of the cell is outside the tub, hanging underneath. The top is sticking up about 3.5" above
the rear floor inside the Jeep. So in my view it's kind of a double whammy.

Believe it or not, dropping of a ledge and landing on the cell is not my biggest concern. That's
easy to deal with. Because this will be street driven, getting rear ended by some idiot texting at
50mph is my biggest concern.

I'm doing a few things to help make things safer in my opinion. One being running a cell with a
rubber bladder. The red thing you see in the pictures is just the can, the rubber bladder fits
inside it and can deform if it takes a hit without leaking fuel. To me, that's a big deal.

The fuel lines inside the tube will all be hard lines.

The fuel fill runs to the stock location out side the Jeep. I just don't like the smell of gas and
always spill. I installed a 5L AFFF system in the Jeep. 2 nozzles will point at the cell inside the
tub.

I'm working on this now, so it's a work in progress, but here's where I'm at so far.

Starting point.........naked fuel cell hanging down like a set of truck nuts, just waiting to get
smashed.






Here's basically the skid plate part of it. Still not finished, but you can get the idea. Bottom
has cross bracing, so I should be able to skin it with something thin
like 1/8" and it will be fine. The cell doesn't actually touch any of it.






This is the part I need rather robust for when Sally rotten crotch slams into the back of me.
I'm thinking about a 2x3 cross member tying into the skid. Still need to make a bumper, the cross
member will be in addition to that.




================================================== ====================================



thedirtman
02-06-2020 08:33 PM
Thats why fuel tanks are illegal outside the frame or behind the rear axle. You should have just
built a buggy for the 1% trails and kept a perfectly good JKU on 35's for the rest of the 99% of
time you would be in it.


================================================== ====================================
ExWrench
02-06-2020 09:02 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4479808)



This is the part I need rather robust for when Sally rotten crotch slams into the back of me.
I'm thinking about a 2x3 cross member tying into the skid. Still need to make a bumper, the cross
member will be in addition to that.

My gut reaction is a crossmember (2x2-ish) between those frame rail ends + 3-5 bars connecting that
crossmember to the back of the tank cage. Maybe skin behind the rear bars with 1/4" 6061 :dunno:
Looking at the side view above, I'd like to see diagonals like this unless you're welding a steel
skin to it:





Visualize an impact on that rear crossbar of your tank cage - something needs to keep it from
folding forward on those legs. EDIT: unless you tie that rear crossbar to a crossmember - those
down-legs could be sufficient triangulation

================================================== ===================================

gt1guy
02-07-2020 12:40 AM

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4479846)
Thats why fuel tanks are illegal outside the frame or behind the rear axle. You should have just
built a buggy for the 1% trails and kept a perfectly good JKU on 35's for the rest of the 99% of
time you would be in it.

I'll be the first to admit putting the cell back there isn't ideal. It's a lot of weight hanging
off the back. I'm not wild about it. But, there's nowhere else to put it. Only other option was to
have the whole thing sitting on the floor behind the rear seat, inside the Jeep. I like that idea
even less.

I'm not going to say your second sentence is wrong, cause it's not, it's actually great
advice.........it's just not what I want. I want my "buggy" to have AC,
tunes, cruise control, full doors, power windows, a soft top and be street legal.:thefinger:

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4479848)
My gut reaction is a crossmember (2x2-ish) between those frame rail ends + 3-5 bars connecting that
crossmember to the back of the tank cage. Maybe skin behind the rear bars with 1/4" 6061 :dunno:
Looking at the side view above, I'd like to see diagonals like this unless you're welding a steel
skin to it:




Visualize an impact on that rear crossbar of your tank cage - something needs to keep it from
folding forward on those legs. EDIT: unless you tie that rear crossbar to a crossmember - those
down-legs could be sufficient triangulation

Well, my friend, apparently we think alike.

This afternoon I installed a 2x2x3/16 square tube x-member between the frame stubs and added 7- 1x1
verticles connecting to the skid. I like the idea of those diag's on the sides.
Only the bottom is getting a skin.


================================================== =================================

02-07-2020 05:26 AM
KOWBOY
Quickly approachin' 4 tons … :grin2:


================================================== ===================================
ALASHA
02-07-2020 07:01 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4479808)
The fuel lines inside the tube will all be hard lines.

Dumb question but wouldnt you want at least a portion of the line close to the tank to be flexible?
In the event of a rear impact, I would assume there will be some sort of frame deformation and a
hard line would have to deform as well to the point where it might break. A flexible line would
allow for some flex.

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4479858)
I want my "buggy" to have AC, tunes, cruise control, full doors, power windows, a soft top and be
street legal.:thefinger:

We dream alike!

================================================== =====================================
thedirtman
02-07-2020 07:19 AM
You are far from street legal, but as long as the po-po does not mind you are fine. Don't drive
that thing to Cali. I am curious to see if I will see any attention now that my rear half is
basically a race car. I dropped 900#'s off it by tubing the rear.


================================================== ============================
gt1guy
02-07-2020 12:21 PM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4479866)
Quickly approachin' 4 tons … :grin2:

If it hits 4tons, I'll just put tracks on it. Tanks are heavy.

I have a set of race scales so we'll know soon enough. Well, unless it passes 6000lbs, that's all
my scales can do.

Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4479872)
Dumb question but wouldnt you want at least a portion of the line close to the tank to be flexible?
In the event of a rear impact, I would assume there will be some sort of frame deformation and a
hard line would have to deform as well to the point where it might break. A flexible line would
allow for some flex.

We dream alike!

You're right. Probably a good idea to allow for some movement.

I have two lines that will pass through the floor. The feed to the engine and the vent. I can make
the last 6" or so hose leading up to the bulkhead fittings heading out of the tub. The filter and
regulator mount to the cell, so the return and the pressure side up to the reg can be hardlines.
The vent can be hard line until it comes off the top.

Here's a CAD/Paint drawing of what I'm thinking. I circled what would be hoses going through the floor.

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4479874)
You are far from street legal, but as long as the po-po does not mind you are fine. Don't drive
that thing to Cali. I am curious to see if I will see any attention now that my rear half is
basically a race car. I dropped 900#'s off it by tubing the rear.

Well damn, I actually want to drive it to San Diego.

Ya, I'm fine where I live. No smog, inspections are just to see if the horn, blinkers, lights and
wipers work. Which is good, I'll only have one OBDII port and it wont say it's a Jeep.

Where's the pics? I wouldn't have thought you had 900lbs of metal left on your Jeep. I'm convinced
the thin ass sheetmetal in the tub is actually really heavy cause it's all two and three pieces
thick.


================================================== ===================================

 

[gt1guy]

ExWrench
02-07-2020 01:48 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4479898)
Well damn, I actually want to drive it to San Diego.

Just put the lid of a Yeti cooler over the fuel cell - they'll think overlandoucher, not race car
​

If you're going to smuggle a buggy in JK skins, why not go full-on 007 ​

================================================== ================================

thedirtman
02-07-2020 06:23 PM

Still have some little stuff to do. 22" of wheel travel.

================================================== ============================
gt1guy
02-07-2020 08:00 PM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4479904)
Just put the lid of a Yeti cooler over the fuel cell - they'll think overlandoucher, not race car
​ If you're going to smuggle a buggy in JK skins, why not go full-on 007 ​

I bet if I paint what sticks out the bottom black, nobody will give it a second thought.

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4479910)
Still have some little stuff to do. 22" of wheel travel.

You said this:

You should have just built a buggy for the 1% trails and kept a perfectly good JK on 35's for the
rest of the 99% of time you would be in it.

:thefinger: :thankyou: :thefinger:

That looks awesome man. Same rear suspension?


================================================== ===================================
thedirtman
02-07-2020 08:29 PM

Its still double triangulated and the same shocks. Taking it out tomorrow to see how it runs. I
should have some shock tuning to do with the weight loss. Running 150/200 coils on the rear with 2"
of preload. The wheel base is 112" so I gained 2" there. All the links and control arm mounts had
to be relocated and are in better spots now.


================================================== =========================================
KOWBOY
02-08-2020 05:34 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4479898)
If it hits 4tons, I'll just put tracks on it. Tanks are heavy.

I have a set of race scales so we'll know soon enough. Well, unless it passes 6000lbs, that's all
my scales can do.

… and tanks are cool.

Stand clear when you set that thang down on them scales then. :surprise:

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4479898)
Well damn, I actually want to drive it to San Diego.

Still anxiously waitin' to hear how that full-hydro setup does on the road.

If'n you are actu'ly able to safely achieve highway speeds, my experiences in Cali and other
communist states have not been without incident with Johnny Law. Since your rig will naturally draw
attention, important to follow some simple rules:

Make sure license plates are clean and properly mounted. Make sure ALL lights are installed and
working properly. Actu'ly use your turn signals. Then basic'ly drive like an old lady goin' to
church. You want Johnny Law's attention to be on your safe drivin' habits rather than your rig. Get
pulled over for a burned out light or not usin' a turn signal and your fucked. Once he's got ya
pulled over, he's gonna have a field day writin' up your jeep to boot … I know this for a fact.

But I've never gotten pulled over just for the vehicle violations. Carry on ...
================================================== =======================================

thedirtman
02-08-2020 07:49 AM

The last time I went to KOTH there was a sheriff posted across from the access road almost the
entire week. I took my jeep to the road as I was going to go to a coffee shop one morning and
parked the jeep and walked over the road to the officer and asked if he would ticket me if I got on
the road and he said from what he could see while sitting in his car was about 6 tickets. I thanked
him and went back to hammer town. I have never been messed with around Tahoe but it is always in
the back of my mind. Tire Coverage, bumper height, seat belts, covered off road lights, frame mods,
lights and reflectors, mud flaps are all triggers for tickets.


================================================== =================================
gt1guy
02-08-2020 10:36 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4479920)
… and tanks are cool.

Stand clear when you set that thang down on them scales then. :surprise:

Still anxiously waitin' to hear how that full-hydro setup does on the road.

If'n you are actu'ly able to safely achieve highway speeds, my experiences in Cali and other
communist states have not been without incident with Johnny Law. Since your rig will naturally draw
attention, important to follow some simple rules:

Make sure license plates are clean and properly mounted. Make sure ALL lights are installed and
working properly. Actu'ly use your turn signals. Then basic'ly drive like an old lady goin' to
church. You want Johnny Law's attention to be on your safe drivin' habits rather than your rig. Get
pulled over for a burned out light or not usin' a turn signal and your fucked. Once he's got ya
pulled over, he's gonna have a field day writin' up your jeep to boot … I know this for a fact.

But I've never gotten pulled over just for the vehicle violations. Carry on ...

Ya, the full hydro will be interesting to see how it works out. I think the 12* of caster should
help. I'm torn between going 3 or 4 turns lock to lock on the setup. I'm sure going with 4 turns
would be much better for the highway.

I'm going to have new steering arms machined out that will give me some Ackerman. Wont be 100%, but
should be pretty close. That doesn't help on the highway only slow speed. It will also keep the
arms from hitting the shock at full lock.​

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4479926)
The last time I went to KOTH there was a sheriff posted across from the access road almost the
entire week. I took my jeep to the road as I was going to go to a coffee shop one morning and
parked the jeep and walked over the road to the officer and asked if he would ticket me if I got on
the road and he said from what he could see while sitting in his car was about 6 tickets. I thanked
him and went back to hammer town. I have never been messed with
around Tahoe but it is always in the back of my mind. Tire Coverage, bumper height, seat belts,
covered off road lights, frame mods, lights and reflectors, mud flaps are all triggers for tickets.

For me, I think tire coverage would be the biggest glaring issue, at least from a distance. What I
have planned for fenders will only cover maybe half the tire....maybe.

Interested to hear how the new setup on your rig works.


================================================== ========================================
thedirtman
02-08-2020 04:57 PM
Was running some whoops and the output yolk exploded. I need to upgrade to flanges. Suspension was
stiff and need to play with the bypasses a bit and maybe go to a lower coil rate.


================================================== ================================
gt1guy
02-10-2020 08:51 AM

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4479946)
Was running some whoops and the output yolk exploded. I need to upgrade to flanges. Suspension was
stiff and need to play with the bypasses a bit and maybe go to a lower coil rate.

Did you run out of slip on the shaft?

It does sound like you lost a ton of weigh in the rear. Did you need to fiddle with the brake bias
also?

================================================== ==============================
thedirtman
02-10-2020 09:01 AM
Slip was fine, I have 3" each way and don't have near that in axle shift with 10" up 8" down on the
shocks, it was a 1310 yolk that I had planned on replacing anyway. I already have the flanges and
need to re-do the driveshaft to fit. Running factory brake system and did not have enough time to
tell anything about the brakes.

================================================== ===============================
pitchitpitchit
02-11-2020 11:05 AM
Does that tank have a bladder? I would suggest straps around that tank to hold it up. Maybe I
missed it though. It looks like it is just mounted by welding the top of the tank to the floor.

================================================== =========================================

gt1guy
02-11-2020 11:52 AM

Originally Posted by pitchitpitchit (Post 4480080)
Does that tank have a bladder? I would suggest straps around that tank to hold it up. Maybe I
missed it though. It looks like it is just mounted by welding the top of the tank to the floor.

Yes, there is a rubber bladder inside the metal box. The box is welded to the floor inside the tub
as you mentioned but, it's also welded to all the floor structure underneath the tub too. So it's
welded twice almost all the way around, with 2"-3" between the welds. It ain't going anywhere.:D​

================================================== ==========================================
gt1guy
02-11-2020 12:00 PM


Cell skid just about finished. Still need to skin the bottom.


​



​


​



​




Work continues on the dash. Cut it in half, so I can remove one side at a time. This should make
life much easier. Got the hole cut for the fuse boxes. Engine
and chassis are on separate systems. With the AC unit all up in there, the cover for fuse boxes
will stick out a couple inches.




Finally got the dzus fasteners installed for the top of the dash. Still have room to run the
defrosters.






And because all the talk about weight...:thefinger:

I installed all 4 wheels and set it bottomed out on it's own weight.................sitting on the
scales.


I know this isn't finished, still missing parts, but almost of the big stuff is there.





Now, what's missing?

*3rd members
*axle shafts
*brakes (rotors/calipers)
*radiator/other coolers
*fluids/lines
*tube fenders
*my fat ass Edit:
*all wiring
*batteries another edit:
*front bypass shocks
*coilover springs
*seats
*ram, orbital, pump
*steering wheel
*skid plates

I'll think of more

I did think of more:
*Headers/mufflers/exhaust
*Torque converter
*Driveshafts

Looks pretty cool all lowered.

 

[gt1guy]

Cod
A fine looking buggy it will be!

================================================
gt1guy
02-11-2020 06:00 PM

Originally Posted by Cod (Post 4480122)
A fine looking buggy it will be!

I think it's gender fluid.......Jeep....Buggy.....Jeep.......hacked up piece of shit......Juggy.
Then it will go full Pinto on me.


========================================================================================
KOWBOY
02-12-2020 06:08 AM

No fears of goin' full Pinto. Believe the car that hit the fuel cell would suffer way more than the
fuel cell.

Is this thang ever gonna get done? If'n ya don't pick up the fuckin' pace, my engines gonna blow
before we ever even get to drive 'em together. :grin2: Carry on ...


=======================================================================================
ALASHA
02-12-2020 07:07 AM
First off that gender fluid hunk of metal looks great on (its, their, her, his) feet.

Second, Im completely flabbergasted at that weight but Im going to wait until its complete to
purchase you a plane ticket.


=======================================================================================

Treader
02-12-2020 08:07 AM
4,368#. Not bad, but the stuff you listed to be finished ain't light by any stretch of the
imagination. I don't think you are going to top 3 tons though. I'm excited you are getting closer
to being finished.

 

[gt1guy]

thedirtman
02-12-2020 08:13 AM
Add shocks, steering, and seats to the list. There is 500#

================================================== =======================================
gt1guy
02-12-2020 08:57 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4480162)
No fears of goin' full Pinto. Believe the car that hit the fuel cell would suffer way more than the
fuel cell.

Is this thang ever gonna get done? If'n ya don't pick up the fuckin' pace, my engines gonna blow
before we ever even get to drive 'em together. :grin2: Carry on ...

I'm thinking most cars will probably torpedo under the jeep. I'll just have to open the door and
look down to call them stupid. I have to tell ya, getting it off the jack stands was a good
feeling.

Originally Posted by ALASHA (Post 4480164)
First off that gender fluid hunk of metal looks great on (its, their, her, his) feet.

Second, Im completely flabbergasted at that weight but Im going to wait until its complete to
purchase you a plane ticket.

Roger, ticket on hold:thefinger:

Originally Posted by Treader (Post 4480170)
4,368#. Not bad, but the stuff you listed to be finished ain't light by any stretch of the
imagination. I don't think you are going to top 3 tons though. I'm excited you are getting closer
to being finished.

Not gonna lie, I was a bit nervous about putting it on the scales at this point. If it was already
at 6k, depression would have sunk in.

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4480172)
Add shocks, steering, and seats to the list. There is 500#

Forgot those. It's just missing the front bypasses and the springs. I'll add that stuff to my list
of what's not there.




pitchitpitchit
02-14-2020 03:11 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4480082)
Yes, there is a rubber bladder inside the metal box. The box is welded to the floor inside the tub
as you mentioned but, it's also welded to all the floor structure underneath the tub too. So it's
welded twice almost all the way around, with 2"-3" between the welds. It ain't going anywhere.:D

The tank be fine having a bladder the way it is mounted. Looks like the jeep is getting there. Keep
it up :wink2:


================================================== =========================================
gt1guy
02-14-2020 06:35 PM

Originally Posted by pitchitpitchit (Post 4480332)
The tank be fine having a bladder the way it is mounted. Looks like the jeep is getting there. Keep
it up :wink2:

Thank you Sir

================================================== =======================================

gt1guy
02-21-2020 05:18 PM

Lets get right to it.

Needed a place to slap a battery switch that will be within reach while seated. Best place is on
the lower dash section, but, I don't want it sticking out. Soooo, I made it inset. Out of the way,
within reach, the world is good.......













There's a little problem though.



I fucking welded the little box on the WRONG side of the panel. It's not tucked out of the way, it
would actually be sticking out just staring at me, waiting to short out and shower me in sparks.
And the switch? That would be inside the dash.

I took a couple minutes of trying to install it before it sunk in. Fuck me sideways. I just set it
down, took these pics, shut off the lights and walked out of the shop. I think I'm done for the
day.


================================================== ================================
ExWrench
02-22-2020 07:32 AM
Sometimes it's best to knock off early if brain fade sets in & fab time is going sideways

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mM7zYIj9uV0















The Road Warrior: Just walk away..

:thefinger: :cookiemonster:

I've become a huge fan of tacking stuff then doing fit check / testing. I only became a fan of this
after (multiple instances of) fully welding shit, reaching your same "well, fuck me" moment, then
cutting shit back apart :nono:



I only laugh because my dumb ass has been in same-ish sitchy-ayshuns :homersimpson:











. . . dumbass :thefinger:


================================================== ===========================

gt1guy
02-22-2020 09:09 AM

Yes, dumb ass indeed. I figured I'd share that moment of stupidity. I never see people show their
fuck ups.

Would have taken less than a minute to check fitment when it was just tacked. Guess I saved that
minute...............and traded it for an hour or so....:nono:

Generally, I've been pretty good about test fitting things.

Hell, I even test fitted the switches so I can test fit the wiring harness.





In other news, I installed a cross bar over the engine. There's tube connectors in it so it's
removable. There's another set of tube connectors right by it on the tube it ties into, so it
should add some strength there.





It will also be what the air box bolts to......





Figured out the shape of the front fenders I want. Almost makes it to the center of the tire in the
rear. In the front, well, I guess it's just for looks.


I wish I could actually use my old Bushwacker fenders, I love those things. I'll just copy the
general shape of what you see in the pictures into proper tube fenders.



















KOWBOY
02-22-2020 09:11 AM
A deep-rooted fear of me doin' exactly the same fuckin' thang if'n I done it myself is why I had my
dash built by others. :grin2:
================================================== ========================================

thedirtman
02-22-2020 09:13 AM
You will rip them off for sure being that low


================================================== =========================================
gt1guy
02-22-2020 09:27 AM
Oh also ordered the parts for the steering, except for the ram. Everything is from Howe, Still need
to measure how much steering movement I get so Howe can set the stops inside the ram before they
ship it.

Ordered some hinge, draw latches and edge seals, so I can make the cover for the fuse box. Battery
cable and lugs on their way. That shit isn't cheap.
Pacific Fab steel oil pan on it's way.

Got the wire and hardware I need for running all the extra switches I'll have over what the chassis
harness covers.

I got shit to do

================================================== ==========================================
gt1guy
02-22-2020 09:40 AM

Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4480864)
A deep-rooted fear of me doin' exactly the same fuckin' thang if'n I done it myself is why I had my
dash built by others. :grin2:

I sure the hell ain't paying myself for that job.:D

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4480868)
You will rip them off for sure being that low

Those pictures are with the frame sitting on the axles. I get what you mean though. That's why I
wish I could get away with using the ol'Bushwackers. When the tire goes higher during articulation,
the Bushwackers would just bend out of the way. Tube fenders will have to be higher on the outboard
side to clear. I'm still kinda worried about how that's gonna look.

Grumper is not a term I want associated with my Jeep.

 

[gt1guy]

KOWBOY
02-22-2020 09:58 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4480876)
Tube fenders will have to be higher on the outboard side to clear.

That's why the other buggies don't mess with fenders. :thefinger:

Mine sucks drivin' in the rain on pavement. Throws up brutal rooster tails from all four corners.
And that's just askin' for Johnny Law to come say hi. Is what it is tho I reckon … ain't been
pulled over yet. But on my daily commute, I do avoid the highways when it's rainin' for that
reason.

And even with them sexy fenders … yours is gonna be worser sir.

(Again … assumin' you can drive it fast enuf on pavement to throw the rooster tails. :thefinger:)
Doin' a great job. Carry on ...



========================================================================================
ExWrench
02-22-2020 02:29 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4480876)
I sure the hell ain't paying myself for that job.:D

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4480876)
. . . I wish I could get away with using the ol'Bushwackers. When the tire goes higher during
articulation, the Bushwackers would just bend out of the way. Tube fenders will have to be higher
on the outboard side to clear. I'm still kinda worried about how that's gonna look.

Grumper is not a term I want associated with my Jeep.

This may sound dumb as shit, but I gotta' ask: what about narrow tube fenders that end in a flange
where you mount MCEs or Butchwaxers or whatever?

Every time I consider rigid metal fenders, I remember how the equivalent of plastic ATV fenders
have saved me from doing Jeep bodywork Consider making the equivalent of a step flange
to mount the plastic fenders where you need them.

Maybe dumbass idea, but transgender fenders (transfenders? ) might be the hot ticket
:dunno:

=================================================================================
gt1guy
02-23-2020 09:30 AM

Originally Posted by ExWrench (Post 4480908)
This may sound dumb as shit, but I gotta' ask: what about narrow tube fenders that end in a flange
where you mount MCEs or Butchwaxers or whatever?

Every time I consider rigid metal fenders, I remember how the equivalent of plastic ATV fenders
have saved me from doing Jeep bodywork Consider making the equivalent of a step flange
to mount the plastic fenders where you need them.

Maybe dumbass idea, but transgender fenders (transfenders? ) might be the hot ticket
:dunno:

I kinda understand where you're going with this.

First problem I can see is getting the correct shape out of them. The old Bushwackers in the pics
were not happy at all being contorted into the shape they were in for the photo shoot. I don't
think any off the shelf fender would work as a donor.
Maybe a sheet of thickish rubber I could cut the correct shape out of might work. It's worth
further investigation.

Out of curiosity, what size tube are most tube fenders made from? 1.250"?




And the fuck up is fixed.

=================================================================================


snout
02-23-2020 10:13 AM

==========================================================================

gt1guy
02-24-2020 09:38 AM


That hurt.

I got the digital dash to try to avoid having something that looks like that. I would like to add a
clock on the dash somewhere..........so it may end up looking
like that gif.:thefinger:

The dash has:

Wipers
Headlights
Turn signals
Horn
Shifter
Emergency flasher
Lockers (2)
Winch (arm, in/out)
Keys
Push to start
Cruise controller
AC vents (2)
Isolator switch to connect both batteries for starting (also has a indicator light)
12v and usb power ports
Fire system handle
Fuel pump kill
Digital dash
Still need to make a spot for the OBDII port

Lower dash on DVR side has that switch to send power (from both batteries) to the winch. It's also
where I'm tapping power (before the switch) from each battery for the engine and chassis fuse
blocks.

Lower dash on the passenger side will have nothing, AC unit fills most of that space.

Center console has:

Interior lights (3)
Power windows (4)
Power locks (1)
Tunes
AC controls
(2) USB power ports AC vents(2)

Wow, written down that does seem like a lot of shit. Steering column has nothing on it except for
the wheel and paddles, so that doesn't help. And, I've still got the Spod above the windshield. It
does the ARB compressor, front bumper light bar, A-pillar lights, rear bumper lights.


========================================================================================
snout
02-24-2020 01:16 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4481042)
That hurt.

I dig it man. Only thing sexier would be a spout for hot coffee and a tap for cold beer.

======================================================================================
Mason
02-24-2020 10:06 PM
Just checked in after a several month hiatus doing race car things. Awesome progress dude. I'm sure
you already know this, but wiring is the absolute last step in any build. Even after paint, and
filling all fluids.

Seeing the picture of it on all four tires was super cool, almost like the end is in sight.

================================================================================
gt1guy
02-25-2020 08:50 AM


Quote:

Originally Posted by Mason (Post 4481118)
Just checked in after a several month hiatus doing race car things. Awesome progress dude. I'm sure
you already know this, but wiring is the absolute last step in any build. Even after paint, and
filling all fluids.

Seeing the picture of it on all four tires was super cool, almost like the end is in sight.


=========================================================================================
Thank you Sir,

I hear ya on the wiring. The finished wiring will be the last thing I do. Right now I'm just making
sure everything fits where I want it. I don't want to have to move holes or mounts after the tub is
coated. Already had to move where the engine harness goes through the firewall.
Then, I've got a shit ton of these little 1/4-20x1/2" studs with a tab to weld to the tub for the
cable clips. So I'm going to lay out the chassis harness and mark where I need the studs. After
that, the harness will sit till everything else is finished.

Off the stands was a milestone for sure. I needed that.

====================================================================================
gt1guy
03-06-2020 06:27 PM


On day two of welding little studs inside the tub. I'm over a hunnered of these bastards and I ran
out.

There for the Adel clips that will be every 6" on all the wiring/battery cables/air lines/ brake
lines/fire bottle lines/whatever lines.

These little fuckers. 1/4-20x3/4.

They're basically the same as the stock studs. Just about all the stockers in the tub are gone or
removed already.

Exciting as all hell I know:thefinger:

Fun part is going to be taping off each one to spray the Lizzard skin.


Got all the stuff for the tunes. Small CV amp, two crawl tunes cans with speakers and a little
Kenwood sub. Swapped out the Sony head unit for a MB Quart one. The Sony claimed to be for marine
use, but there's no way it could be.

Ordered what I need to make the SS hardlines that will be inside the tub. Except I just realized I
forgot all about the vent line. Sooooo, I've ordered most of what I need.:nono:

Oh, and another real exciting thing has been removing crimp collars off old AN lines so I can reuse
the fittings. I've got boxes and boxes of lines.

And, I'm still waiting to get paid from the job I did in Egypt. That was Nov/Dec. Office I worked
out of is in Dubai. I did get 20k so far, but they're way late on the last 40k. Not exactly chump
change. Only bad part about working international.........no parking lot to sit in and wait.


=========================================================================

thedirtman
03-07-2020 07:18 AM
You should have rented a stud welder.

https://www.sunbeltstudwelding.com/stud-welder-rentals/index.html

Find some plastic straws that fit the stud and use them instead of tape.

=========================================================================================

gt1guy
03-07-2020 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4481788)
You should have rented a stud welder.

https://www.sunbeltstudwelding.com/stud-welder-rentals/index.html

Find some plastic straws that fit the stud and use them instead of tape.

Stud welder would certainly remove a big part of the hassle. As you know, any of the paint, or
primer, or might even be a coating before the primer, near a weld is a sputter fest. The glue
between panels turns into a sputter fest. And the seam sealer just likes to burn and smear all
over.

Those sputter fests are really starting to get old.

Here's the sad part..............I have a stud welder. One of the Eastwood ones for body work. I
don't know if it would do a 1/4" stud though, I don't think so. I've
just used it for the pins for a slide hammer. I never even thought of it.


Straws, much better idea than the plastic caps I ordered last night.:nono:

I need to start running my ideas through you before I act.

 

[ExWrench]

I admire your perseverance - I'm 1 post in copying a thread & already burned out

So basically: fuck you for sticking with it and making me feel like a lazy POS

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
03-18-2020 10:52 AM

Well, while I'm sitting here waiting for Adams to call me back about driveshafts, I figured I'd
show something I found interesting the other day.

To pull off a double triangulated front suspension, with a low lift height, I moved the engine back
4" and stretched the front axle forward 5". Had to do other shit but, that's the jist of it. Sounds
like it should open a gigantic hole to work with doesn't it?

Over the past few days I've pulled the axles, installed the 3rd members and shoved the axles back
under so I could pull numbers for driveshafts. I've never had the 3rds under the Jeep before, I've
just been going off the millions of measurements I've taken.

Well this is what it looks like. All these pics are at full 2 wheel bump.


















With the camera flush against the TC flange looking straight ahead.

Not the gigantic space you'd think would be there with moving things around so much. The engine is
mounted at the same height as a normal LS swap puts it. I just took out most of the rearward lean
to get the flat bottom. It leans back at 3* compared to whatever normal is. So the front balancer
is probably sitting a bit lower due to being in front of the engine mounts. The TC is only clocked
down 3".

Top of the housing comes up almost even with the damn balancer bolt on the crank.

That last pics sure looks like I have all the room I need for the driveshaft. Other angles want to
tell a different story. Those two dicks sticking out off the stock oil pan aren't there on the new
steel pan.

I "think" the shaft might just kiss the floor, but I'm waiting on the shafts to tell the real
story.

================================================== ================================
03-19-2020 06:42 AM

KOWBOY
Damn that's close! No room for error for sure. Bumpstops from hell and chain the engine down solid?


================================================== =======================
gt1guy
03-19-2020 08:29 AM

Engine mounts (and the trans mount will be) are those bushings in a tube like you use for cage
tie-ins. I don't think there's much movement in um. Luckily.

I need to order the bump stops. I know where they "should" go and I have a pretty good idea where
they "can" go. "Should" and "can" are not in the same spot, unfortunately.

================================================== ========================================
KOWBOY
03-19-2020 09:02 AM

Forgot you high-tech folks wouldn't be needin' a chain. That's just old-school redneck shit we
learned with high horsepower and low fab skills. :grin2:

================================================== =================================
gt1guy
03-19-2020 10:20 AM

Got the driveshafts on the way. 1350 Non-CV, just regular old shafts with good parts. Simple. Kinda
funny that the front is longer than the rear.

At ride height F=44.5" and R=35.25"

I also ordered 3 shafts. One for the front, one for the rear and one with a long slip that will
work at either end in a pinch.

Received the parts from Howe for the steering.

Received all thehardline plumbing.

Still have to measure for axle shafts. That's going to be another big coin dump me thinks.



Making a note here so I don't forget again:

Rear wms-wms at hubs = 72.125", add .500" for rotor hats

================================================== =============================

gt1guy
03-26-2020 10:16 PM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4482746)
Received the parts from Howe for the steering.

Orbital is mounted and tied into the column, filter/reservoir installed, pump installed.
Interesting note on the Howe filter/reservoir. It has an actual pressure cap for the lid. It is
literally a radiator cap.


Started the ball rolling on a custom C&R radiator. 22"tall x 27"wide x 3.5" thick. All AN fittings.
Set up to run a surge tank so no pressure cap on the radiator itself. Dual Spal brushless fans that
are PWM. Shroud with rubber trap doors to allow air flow at high speed through the shroud. Steam
vent port.
Even with the radiator leaning back at 33*, the two main hose fittings (-20/-24) are at the same
height as where they tie into the water pump and are at the same 3* down angle as the engine/trans
is sitting at. So each hose will be a straight shot with 45* fittings on each end.

Already bought and mounted the surge tank.

So when I get the cad drawing of the radiator from C&R, I'll be able to do a final fitment check
with the cardboard special I made...............then it's go time.

And I've started laying out the inner fender skirts for the front.

================================================== ========================================
scubatech
03-27-2020 07:05 AM

Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4483508)
Orbital is mounted and tied into the column, filter/reservoir installed, pump installed.
Interesting note on the Howe filter/reservoir. It has an actual pressure cap for the lid. It is
literally a radiator cap.


Started the ball rolling on a custom C&R radiator. 22"tall x 27"wide x 3.5" thick. All AN fittings.
Set up to run a surge tank so no pressure cap on the radiator itself. Dual Spal brushless fans that
are PWM. Shroud with rubber trap doors to allow air flow at high speed through the shroud. Steam
vent port.
Even with the radiator leaning back at 33*, the two main hose fittings (-20/-24) are at the same
height as where they tie into the water pump and are at the same 3* down angle as the engine/trans
is sitting at. So each hose will be a straight shot with 45* fittings on each end.

Already bought and mounted the surge tank.

So when I get the cad drawing of the radiator from C&R, I'll be able to do a final fitment check
with the cardboard special I made...............then it's go
time.

And I've started laying out the inner fender skirts for the front.

Good choice GT1. My C&R radiator worked perfectly.


================================================== ==============================================
thedirtman
03-27-2020 08:17 AM
You better plan for a limit strap at the rear diff with a non CV 1350 joint. Flange or yoke at the
transfer case? 3" shafts?

================================================== =================================
gt1guy
03-27-2020 10:16 AM

Originally Posted by scubatech (Post 4483518)
Good choice GT1. My C&R radiator worked perfectly.

Ya, C&R makes good shit. You see a lot of it used in the top levels of motorsports.

It's kind of funny, when I said I had a Jeep JK, their first response was that JK's twist a lot at
the core support and the rad mounts would have to absorb it. It took a minute to make them
understand I have no JK up front.

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4483520)
You better plan for a limit strap at the rear diff with a non CV 1350 joint. Flange or yoke at the
transfer case? 3" shafts?

Flanges on the transfer case.

There was a lot of discussion with Adams about the rear. I liked the idea of no CV, but I didn't
like the idea of how you set the pinion angle for a non-CV shaft. Parallel with the tc output. With
the engine/trans only leaning back at 3*, that would put the pinion almost Hz. I didn't like that
idea, just sounded like carnage waiting to happen.

So, on to what they are using and how they say to set it up.

They are using 35 series yokes. Seems to be something originating from the Ag world. And, they said
to set it up pointing the pinion 2* ABOVE the tc output. It sounds good. My link geometry does a
really good job of keeping the pinion pointing at the tc throughout it's full travel. They say they
have guys driving these setups on the street.


So, we'll see. I have to admit, I don't understand the 2* up on the pinion thing, but I also don't
build driveshafts for a living. Here's pics they sent me of a 35 series setup.








edit:

Don't know the rear shaft diameter.


================================================== ===============================

thedirtman
03-27-2020 10:28 AM
I don't know about those guys. I have a customer that bought a jeep they built and it was
completely F**ked up. Interested on seeing how that set up works. I am running a 1410 non cv on the
rear and had to do a bit of clearancing on the flange adapter.


================================================== ===========================================
thedirtman
03-27-2020 10:34 AM
The 2 degree is because they are basically pushing the output farther back and it would mimic the
transfer case sitting higher than it would be with a shorter flange. Not sure how that helps but
the design allows the joint to misalign more. More misalignment=less strength.


================================================== ==============================
gt1guy
03-27-2020 11:04 AM

Originally Posted by thedirtman (Post 4483530)
The 2 degree is because they are basically pushing the output farther back and it would mimic the
transfer case sitting higher than it would be with a shorter flange. Not sure how that helps but
the design allows the joint to misalign more. More misalignment=less strength.

Ahhh, alright. Thanks for the explanation, I can understand that.

I gave them tire size, gear ratio, low range ratio, 1st gear ratio, a weight of 6k and HP of 600.
They seemed confident it was the way to go. Hopefully we'll find out in less than 3
years:thefinger:

 

[gt1guy]

gt1guy
03-28-2020 11:00 AM

Pictures from yesterdays update Filter/Reservoir.

Surge tank for radiator.

Top view of the whole mess. It's starting to get a bit crowded. Narrowing the hood wiped out a lot
of room.

Cooler for the steering.

The beginnings of inner fenders. Will also serve as part of closing out the front for the radiator,
which is normally the job of the core support that I don't have anymore. Even the air that goes
through the headlight holes in the grill will go through the radiator. It's also going to be a pain
in the ass to fill in all the little openings.

The other option was to start the inner fenders from the outside edge of the hood and put big holes
in them for the coilover/bypass to stick through.

==========================================================================================
gt1guy
03-28-2020 11:09 AM

Oh, and here is the orbital placement. I had it a bit more forward until I realized where the hoses
connect on it were lined up perfectly with the pump pulley. So a thrown/broken belt could have
turned into a big mess.

 

[gt1guy]

I admire your perseverance - I'm 1 post in copying a thread & already burned out

So basically: fuck you for sticking with it and making me feel like a lazy POS

I just finished. I think there may be a page or two over on JKO that were after I made the PDF copy. I'll have to check it out.

You just have to power through................................I believe in you.....................you can do it...........................................

It does fucking suck though.

 

[gt1guy]

Got the driveshafts. They fit. Nice to be able to buy something and just bolt it on for a change. Sounds stupid I know.

I'll say one thing, the yokes on the tc side are gigantic. I have spent hours now, searching for what they actually are, with no luck. The only numbers on the AG yoke is 2502-H. And I get nothing on it. Next up will be calling Adams to get the part number for the u-joint so I can buy a couple spares. All I see on the joints is SPR on one side and P7 above FT on the other side. They're also gigantic. Easily twice as big as the 1350 on the diff end.

Anyway.


Rear sitting just shy of full droop.

Front at the same just shy of full droop

Rear pinion angle. Still need to fine tune it at ride height. But, at least it looks like the end of the pinion wont be the "low hanging fruit". Any needed adjustment will be up anyway, so it'll get better.

Here you can see where the lower links mount compared to the outputs. The geometries do a good job of keeping the pinions pointed where they should be. Also, it insures that nothing happens fast, so hopefully there wont be any surprises in handling when the suspension is doing it's thing.

Biggest surprise was that the front shaft clears everything. I had my doubts about the edge of the floor. In the pic you can see I even marked out where I thought I would have to make room. But, alas, at full bump I can stick a finger between the floor and the shaft at it's closest point. And that's with the engine being centered in the frame, not off to the passenger side 1.5" like it is stock.

For reference, the upper links will just barley miss kissing the engine mount at full bump.

Ya, shitty picture

 

[gt1guy]

So I bent up the hard line for the AccuSump......................then realized I didn't have a valve in the line. Anytime I would have sat at a red light or shut off the engine or just let it idle really, it would have dumped 3qts into the engine.
So ordered up the Canton elect valve for it. Didn't really want to add more elect stuff, but researching it, the valve is actually pretty trick. First off, in addition the the main valve itself, there's a check valve in it. The check will allow it to always top off to the highest pressure reached by the engine.........regardless of if the main valve is active or not. Pretty cool.
The main valve is ran off a pressure sending unit that screws into the valve, I got the 20-25psi unit. Then you wire it all up through a on/off toggle switch.

So, it can pre oil the engine before startup by turning it on before cranking the engine.........do it's thing offroad.....and can be turned off before shutting down the engine (saving the psi in it) or when driving in town where you're starting and stopping all the time. Plus, it fits under the seat.

Made a spot for the starter cable to pass through the firewall. I get a better feeling using the dumb looking sealed cord grips instead of just a little rubber grommet. At least where hundreds of amp are concerned.

Same deal with the winch cables through the firewall.

Made these little closeouts for the sides of the dash. Though I did kinda defeat the "closeout" part of the closeout with the big ol open speed holes. I'm gonna call them closeopens.:thefinger:

 

[gt1guy]

Oil filter/cooler t-stat and trans cooler t-stat mounted. Yes, they're on the pass side. It'll be much easier to route the lines up and over the bell housing, than to zigzag around the upper link and driveshaft on the dvr side.

Trans t-stat activates at 160*, is fully open at 181* and should stabilize at 165*.

Engine oil t-stat activates at 200*, is fully open at 221* and should stabilize at 205*.

Both t-stats always allow 10%< to circulate through the coolers to remove any air pockets and not shock the system with cold oil.

Pass side template for the inner fender is finished. Picking up some sheets of 16ga alum when I'm done here.........cause essential business.:thefinger:

Trying to have the front of the inner fenders double as part of the shrouds to funnel air for the radiator. Might have to add some bits to make a seal.

Will have to weld on a cubby bulge for the oil filter. And it's a real man sized oil filter, HP4, not the tiny factory sized one.

Will need a bulge for the ac compressor/pulley too.

AC condenser, trans cooler, engine oil cooler and steering cooler are all mounted. Pretty sure the steering cooler is going to end up above the crossbar so it can benefit from the fans pulling air in the grill. But that will mean the winch will be a bit farther forward.

Ac and trans cooler are kind of mounted together and both are only mounted to the engine cage. Everything is rubber mounted to allow for them to grow when hot.

The top of the engine cooler mounts to the engine cage, the bottom of it mounts to the frame x-member. There's a bushing between the engine cage and the frame. I hope this doesn't turn out to be a disaster.

Anyway built in a lot of rubber movement. Made the top mount a twisted 90* so it can tweak if the world comes to an end. I think I'll be ok.

I need to find a spot for this fucker. It's going somewhere on the inside of the inner fender. Space in the engine compartment is starting to get a little slim. Though I have left a good amount of space for the headers to find a home.

 

[gt1guy]

10ft sheets of thin alum is interesting to load in the back of a little Tacoma. Surprisingly, they made it home.



Since the day is pretty much blown, I'll get this shit caught up.


Here's where the control box for the winch is going. Cuts about 3"-4" of height off the winch.
What sucks is I'm wanting to size the wire for it at it's max amp draw, cause that makes sense right? Well, going by that, even the wire that comes with it isn't big enough.....they're 2ga.......even for how short they are. Max draw is 460amps. But in reality, that's only on the first layer. So that's what, half a layer, because you still need to leave 5 or so wraps on the drum? You'd literally only ever be drawing max amps for a couple minutes at the most.

For the distance from my batteries to the winch, I should run TWO 4/0 cables for that amperage. I will definitely have a single 4/0 running from each battery to the dash switch. From the switch to the control box, I can do two 4/0's easy. But shoehorning the other 4/0's into the control box is going to be very tricky. Simply because the connection studs are close together and 4/0 lugs aren't small.

Anyway, back to................Here's where the control box for the winch is going

In other news.

Here's the new steel oil pan. It's a PacificFab, has the extra armor and trapdoor sump. Got a ARP stud kit for it too. Wont have to worry about the stock cast alum one shattering now.

Ignore the baby oil filter, came with the pan.

Here's where the radiator ended up. Well, the drawings for it anyway. It's paid for, not sure when they'll be able to start on it..........cause virus.

And to go with the radiator, I'm running a Meziere water pump. It's 7-8gpm more even at idle and flows something like 55-60 at 6k. 4" impeller. All billet, cartridge style.

And yes, color matched full homo AN fittings. Anodized.....not painted. They'll match the cup holders

Other than the above shit for the engine. It's also getting:
Rocker arm trunion upgrade.
Stiffer pushrods.
FAST intake.
Ported throttle body. (Just gives better throttle response)
A set of old school looking valve covers.
Coil packs relocated to the firewall.

 

[gt1guy]

Since I never notched all the rollcage tubes sticking out the bottom of the tub, yesterday I made the world famous "notch in place" tool. Not to be confused with lesser tools.

First up......A-pillar

Next up....second B-pillar. Front B got notched when installed.

As we all know, normal 2" hole saws wont go all the way through a 2" tube......too short.

So take two hole saws, cut them to make one long one.

Then took a piece of 2.25, put a 2" notch in one end to fit around the cage tube and stuffed the other end with 3" long assorted tube sizes until it was basically a 1" bushing for the shaft to ride on. So with the hole saw longer, it's always riding inside the 2.25" tube and the shaft is supported by all the junk in the end. Sprayed a bit of lube on everything and it just glides in and out of the tube. It sure doesn't feel like the hacked up shit that it is.

Test fit of the world famous "notch in place tool"

I'm just going to tack it to the cage tube to hold it in place.


How does it work you might ask? No idea.....going out to see right now.

 

[gt1guy]

Happy to report the world famous "notch in place tool" worked like a champ. Though I could definitely tell a difference between the first and last cuts. It wouldn't have lasted through 20 notches.

It wasn't without "the incident" on the first notch..

Do not get stupid and tack your tool to the piece you're cutting OFF. The wildly spinning, very out of balance and pretty heavy tool drill combo you're holding with one hand will try to kill you.

The shaft took some galling..........because DOM tube really isn't a bearing.

The results.

A-pillar. Just enough room to weld the bushing tube on when the tub gets pull off for the last time.

B-pillar.

Looking up at the two B's. I know it looks like they aren't lined up at all. They're not supposed to be. Now that I've been dicking around with them again, the thought process returned after two years. Where they "could" line up is right up at the tub where it wouldn't work. So it has to be two separate bushings and you need to be able to get bolts through them both.

I didn't think I could get the world famous "notch in place tool" I hadn't made yet, in there to notch the front B, so I notched it when I installed it. The front B actually had to go in as 4 pieces. I remember the nightmares. What I had forgot was why exactly I left the notch where I did.

Now I know.

So the B's get their own bushings and kind of share mounts. One tab will run between the B's and be used for both. The rear B (notched today)will get a tab for its rear side. The front of the front B ties right in to the body mount on the frame (just need to drill a hole). That's why I put the notch where I did 2 years ago.

 

[gt1guy]

Not gonna lie, when I walked into the shop today and could no longer see the ends of the cage tube hanging down......I was happy. I meant to do it before I pulled the body off a while ago, but I had tunnel vision on getting the firewall fixed and blew it off. So, it had actually been blown off twice. Ticking off that box had been bugging me.

christensent said:

Why'd you go single u-joint on each end of the driveshaft rather than a CV/double cardan?
​

Simpler, one less joint to worry about. If I didn't need to have a cv, I figured why put one there. Hopefully, they serve me well, but we'll have to wait and see how they like 486lb/ft of torque.



================================================================================


Threw a hat/rotor on, slapped a caliper on top...........then crossed my fingers and installed a wheel.

I can easily get a finger between the caliper and the rim everywhere. So, I get to keep my 17" wheels and tires and don't have to boom up to 20's. Wasn't 100% sure that was going to be the case. So that question mark has been answered.

Been doing clearancing on the knuckles and C's to get the steering maxed out. Didn't need a whole lot of flapper wheel love, but now at 45* both ways it's using the stop bolts and there's no longer any contact between the knuckles and C's.



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I do have a slight update.

Ghetto rigged a angle iron tierod between the steering arms so I could measure the total amount of steering and get a ram ordered up from Howe. They make 6", 8" and 10" rams. When you order, they'll install internal stops, so ram and knuckles stop together.

I'm getting 11.125" of travel. That's with the "tierod" mounted 9" from the Kingpin C/L. So, I need to figure out just how close I can get the ram to the axle housing, while walking the mounting points on the arms back towards the Kingpins.

I can tell ya one thing, this sucker is going to steer tight. Which is good being a land yacht.


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While I'm letting this new fucking bullshit cock sucking JKO forum layout sink in..........

Ordered the hydro ram today. Howe 2.25"x10".

Didn't need to have them limit it at all. Actually, I'm working backwards to the 10" stroke max. I'm at 10.25" right now. But I'd like to have the ram sitting where it goes, so I know everything is right.

With the orbital I have, that will put my steering at 4 turns lock/lock.


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So, waiting on the steering ram to get here. I need that to finalize where the tierods will go. Then I can finish up my chicken scratch drawing to take to the machine shop and have them cut out the new arms. I like these Crane knuckles due to the keyway for the steering arms, but, it seems nobody other than Crane makes arms and theirs are all straight. I need arms that kick out board for Ackermann, and to get them out of the shock mounts when turning inboard.

I've got three other things that need to be delt with in the front. Hood, grill and fenders. I "think" I've got a plan now. And if this doesn't sound right, let me know.

Plan is:

Do the fenders first, cause they have to go where they have to go. The hood/fender "line" can be done (modified) with the hood. Hood needs to go up/down so if there's a stack, it needs to be on top.

Do hood second, just because I think it will be easier to fit the grill to the hood and not the hood to the grill.

Do grill last. It needs the hood there to define the top shape of it. It also needs to wrap around the hood a bit to cover the sides of the headlights.

Does this make sense? Anyone see a problem with my thinking?

The hood and grill are going to end up being composites. That's been the plan ever since I hacked up the hood and turned the grill into a piece of sheet metal. So sculpting them into shape can be done with 10lbs of bondo and expanding foam instead of Chip Foose metal skills that I don't have.


So the hood scoop showed up the other day. Went for a test fit. It was the shortest cowl induction scoop I could find. It's also only 2.5" tall, I just need something for cool air to go in.

Lots of room under the hood for an air box and filter to fit above the cross bar.

Problem #1

With the scoop sitting at the rear edge of the hood, the top of it hit the cowl before the hood was opened any usable amount. So, I shortened the rear of it, that keeps the front in the same spot.

After modifications..............................of another brand new part.

Which led to the ghetto hood prop.

Which was remedied by this fancy aluminum locking hood hinge thingy. So a mount for the alum locking thingy will be incorporated into new hood. A secondary benefit of the locking hood thingy is that it also keep the hood from flopping all the way back to the windshield..........which would now smash the scoop.

Two birds, one stone, $5 NASCAR take off part.

 

[gt1guy]

10" stroke ram showed up yesterday. Sucker is wider than my frame rails.

Only spent a few minutes holding it up in position. Of course it will want to cover the fill bung on the housing........or looks like it wants to.............I guess I wouldn't have it any other way. 🖕

Should have a front tube fender bent up today. Ill post up a pic, for review. I want to make sure it doesn't have the Grumper vibe to it. That's a fear of mine. I think I've avoided that look by using only one bend in side view.

And, I've only got one shot at them with 1.5" tube. Only had half a stick left. I'd like to avoid having to buy more. I do have a bunch of 1.75" if I fuck up, but it looks a little big when I held a piece up there.

Ok, here it is. Gay, not gay, Grumper, good candidate for the getto fab thread on pirate, acceptable because functional, cool, stupid, or just no?

To be honest it looks better to me than I was expecting. Making the top flat made a big difference.
The rear of it is still a work in progress. I did end up with a third bend. Then I cut it right above the bend a sleeved it so I can rotate the bend to land on the slider when they get made.


Ride height side view:

Ride height front view. Not gonna lie, I'm not in love with it. To me it looks really wide. But, it's only 1.5" wider in the middle and actually 1" narrower in the front than my old Bushwacker flares.

From the rear. Don't love it or hate it.

Now, here's why it looks like it does. Stuffed.

Believe it or not there's 11" between the top of the tire and the tube fender at ride height.

And I still need to trim a bit more of the firewall back.

So, what says the group?

I'm kinda stuck with it either way.

 

[gt1guy]

ExWrench said:

I think the flat top section of the fenders saves 'em from Grumperland. Also, I think skinning 'em with cardboard would let you (and us) get a realistic feel for 'em. Maybe you can get an accurate impression in person, but my dumb ass needs 'em skinned to in good confidence tell you how lame they are

​

Ya, I'll slap some card board on there to get and idea of how they'll look finished.​

I see two ways of skinning.

1) Skin it flat, so it stays the height of the tube till it hits the hood. Would have to form the side of the hood to meet it (as in raise the sides of the hood).

2) Skin it straight line from the tube to the engine cage. That would have to transition from the 76.5* angle at the front to the level part by the center bend in the tube.

I think # 2 would be the easiest but, I also think it could amplify the angle in the front. So possible Grumperish move.

I did order a few sets of pre- louvered panels (has 11 5" louvers in a straight line). My thinking is that these fenders may want to catch a lot of air when moving and create high pressure areas that bleed into the engine compartment. That results in less air flow through the radiator. I think some louvers would eliminate the possible issue. Also plan on a set of louvers on either side of the cowl induction scoop right above the headers.

 

[gt1guy]

Cardboard busted out, trimmed and taped in place. Started with the second way in my above post. Have to say I like it. To me it looks fine.

The more I thought about doing them the other way, the less I liked the idea. Making the fender skins higher than they need to be and then raising the sides of the hood to meet them, just sounded like a great way to remove some forward vision for "looks". Fuck that, that would be stupid. If I'm really worried about "looks", I have about 1000lbs of stock sheet metal to weld back on.

The fear of the Grumper look was real and justified. PERSONALLY


I think I've avoided that.

Pics:

 

[gt1guy]

ExWrench said:

Cardboard FTMFW! (finally View attachment 363934 )

Totally with you on option #2 - I dig form following function, but that also looks schweet
Option 1 would be heavier & more complex, reduce visibility, and waste more tape to mock up.
Was looking forward to accusing you of ripping off Fab Fours, but you done good
​

​

Thank you kind Sir.

I haven't made bumpers yet, so the possibility exists that I could still go full Fab Four. Actually the bumpers I pulled off the Jeep were Fab Four's......pre-Grumper though.

Got the tube connectors installed to make the fender removable. Now I need to copy everything to the other side and have it come out somewhat the same.

 

[Kowboy]

Build still looks great Kevin.

But what am I missin' ... what's the logic of recreatin' the entire build thread here? You guessin' JKO is gonna be wiped out and disappear?

Seem a better use of time to refer to that build thread and then just pick-up where you left off on here.

 

[gt1guy]

Build still looks great Kevin.

But what am I missin' ... what's the logic of recreatin' the entire build thread here? You guessin' JKO is gonna be wiped out and disappear?

Seem a better use of time to refer to that build thread and then just pick-up where you left off on here.

To be honest, I figured it would take an hour or so to move it all over. With that thinking, why not? Well, 4 hours into the first of 8 PDF's, I was floundering in the deep end of the pool and committed. So I powered through.

I do think JKO is an empty shell of what it once was. Hell, there's what, 10 active people on it nowadays? Maybe less. I had already decided I wanted a build thread on Pirate after JKO did the update, then waited to see if Pirate got kicked in the nuts too. Now we all know how that went.

I'll be asking Austin to move this to Gen4x4 where I hope to get more feedback, from folks who have built more extreme rigs or buggies or just hacked their junk up like I have. I like the exchange of ideas to end up with better results. Hell, if it wasn't for you, I'd still be fucking around with the stock dash and wiring. That's what I'm looking for here I guess.