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99-04 Dana 60 & 50 Tech

So you can shorten past the taper and then Respline and it’ll fit back in the carrier? What’s the point of the taper then? Or can someone like Branik turn down the shaft diameter to recreate the taper before splines are cut?
I do not know if there is room to replace the 30 spline side gear with a 35 spline and then install a 35 spline shaft into the D50 carrier.

For clarity the D50 inner shaft tapers from 1.5" down to 1.3?" and then the splines start. Anywhere closer to the ujoint end of the taper can be resplined to 35 or less.
D50 shafts are just D60 shafts that taper at the 30 splined carrier to allow the use of lighter ringear / carrier components in efforts to increase fuel economy I guess. (Even though with unlocked hubs nothing turns so it's irrelevant)

The point Tim is making is that a proper built axle shaft will be smaller in the middle than the major OD of the splines. This is to allow the shaft to have a bit of twist before breaking.
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Good tech but maybe I'm asking the question wrong.

I am just talking about shortening a stock dana 50 shaft down for use in a stock dana 50, can it be done with the taper or because of the taper will it not fit back in the carrier once it's re-splined? For the purpose of making a narrower D50

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Good tech but maybe I'm asking the question wrong.

I am just talking about shortening a stock dana 50 shaft down for use in a stock dana 50, can it be done with the taper or because of the taper will it not fit back in the carrier once it's re-splined? For the purpose of making a narrower D50

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how much narrower?

Can you just swap to 35 spline D44 carrier and run the off-the-shelf shorter Chevy D60 inner shaft on long side, along with 99-04 D60 inner for its 35 spline?
 
Cool to see someone building a Dana 50 :beer:

Converting to 35 spline inners is something that has been discussed a lot, but I haven't seen anyone actually do it. Might be worth looking into. Supposedly you can get and ARB with 35 spline side gears swapped in since ARB uses the same spiders in similarly-sized diffs. I have also read that it is possible to use a Dana 44 carrier (which are available in 35 spline and fit a Dana 50 ring gear without modification) with Dana 44 carrier bearings (same outer race diameter as Dana 50 carrier bearings, but smaller ID to fit the Dana 44 carrier journals) along with some creative carrier shimming.

You could also look at getting the side gears of whatever carrier you decide to run EDMed to 35 spline, but that may be cost prohibitive..
From your thread, btw
 
I am just talking about shortening a stock dana 50 shaft down for use in a stock dana 50, can it be done with the taper or because of the taper will it not fit back in the carrier once it's re-splined? For the purpose of making a narrower D50

Yes this will work if the shaft is machined with a new taper and then resplined to 30 spline. Key words "for use in a stock Dan 50"
 
Write up on machining unit bearing. No disassembly required. Knock the studs out chuck up on a lathe clamping on the front. Bore or drill all the way through to clear 1.5” shaft. I go to at least 1.562” or 1 9/16”. Then do a counterbore 1.875” in diameter .875” deep. Done.
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To add to this. Crazy505 on Instagram found these bushings from branik. This allows you to not do the counter bore for the bearing I quoted above. Just drill the unit bearing out press in these bushings and done. He used a hole saw. Pics are from his Instagram post.

Branik bushings:






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That is awesome, thanks for sharing.

I'm leaning towards running 99-04 stuff for my next build now so this is good to know
 
Good tech but maybe I'm asking the question wrong.

I am just talking about shortening a stock dana 50 shaft down for use in a stock dana 50, can it be done with the taper or because of the taper will it not fit back in the carrier once it's re-splined? For the purpose of making a narrower D50

1697836323700.png
I was told by Branik and one other shop ( might have been Moser, I forget) that they could not shorten them, or it was at least not recommended. They said the hardening depth was too shallow and the splines would be below the heat treated portion and they couldn't re-heat treat.

I ended up with a custom length Branik long side inner.
 
New here… currently building some 99-04 based 609’s for a JHF style buggy. Fabricating own housings, using rear rotors (turned ID to fit UB) with F350 rear calipers on the front. Looking at the hole saw in the picture above I’d suggest the 1-9/16” is the best option as I measured my UB at 41.2mm for the bushing.

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There is some discussion in using Dodge knuckles on the 99-04 inner C’s, I did this on my 609’s for my Defender build to keep the LR lug pattern & fit inside my 15” Stazworks beadlocks. Keeping the overall width to a minimum was also a requirement as we have to have our tires covered and I didn’t want 10” wide fender flares !

6BA71FD7-DE17-466B-A472-61E255FFB3D4.jpeg BAC500F4-77D7-4A54-9BFA-6863C2427EB1.jpeg
 
There is some discussion in using Dodge knuckles on the 99-04 inner C’s, I did this on my 609’s for my Defender build to keep the LR lug pattern & fit inside my 15” Stazworks beadlocks. Keeping the overall width to a minimum was also a requirement as we have to have our tires covered and I didn’t want 10” wide fender flares !

6BA71FD7-DE17-466B-A472-61E255FFB3D4.jpeg BAC500F4-77D7-4A54-9BFA-6863C2427EB1.jpeg
Definitely interested in what you did here. What parts did you use exactly? Like knuckle is from what year? Rotor? Caliper? The specs in the above post this is the out come?
 
Definitely interested in what you did here. What parts did you use exactly? Like knuckle is from what year? Rotor? Caliper? The specs in the above post this is the out come?
That axle in in my LR D100… parts were D60 KP 35 spline spindles, D50 TTB hubs, E350 rear SRW rotors, Chevy 3/4t calipers & I made my own mounting brackets. The knuckles had the caliper ‘wings’ on them & I cut them off. The spindles were spotted through from the knuckle to redrill the 4 mounting holes & bored for 35 spline stubs. Both rotor & hubs were modified for the LR 5 on 6.5” lug pattern.

56268FC1-CA2C-4BFF-A95C-5A8D797CF45A.jpeg 1FCAECCD-C697-4A9B-B0E9-2005B0EF383B.jpeg B13CC46F-FC2C-4306-BE14-40338B4DE3B5.jpeg 57C36E1A-4081-4CB0-8574-C73C3EFAFD67.jpeg 89E336E4-DC5C-4206-AA50-065643C232BF.jpeg 770FBC6E-9548-4112-AC11-09C2DA696163.jpeg 54781F70-6910-4C36-89DA-2618BA89C623.jpeg
 
To add to this. Crazy505 on Instagram found these bushings from branik. This allows you to not do the counter bore for the bearing I quoted above. Just drill the unit bearing out press in these bushings and done. He used a hole saw. Pics are from his Instagram post.

Branik bushings:

Had already found the bushings but the hole saw is a brilliant idea… cost us $80cad to get my UB bored out for mocking up… the next 3 will be in the drill press for sure !
 
That axle in in my LR D100… parts were D60 KP 35 spline spindles, D50 TTB hubs, E350 rear SRW rotors, Chevy 3/4t calipers & I made my own mounting brackets. The knuckles had the caliper ‘wings’ on them & I cut them off. The spindles were spotted through from the knuckle to redrill the 4 mounting holes & bored for 35 spline stubs. Both rotor & hubs were modified for the LR 5 on 6.5” lug pattern.

56268FC1-CA2C-4BFF-A95C-5A8D797CF45A.jpeg 1FCAECCD-C697-4A9B-B0E9-2005B0EF383B.jpeg B13CC46F-FC2C-4306-BE14-40338B4DE3B5.jpeg 57C36E1A-4081-4CB0-8574-C73C3EFAFD67.jpeg 89E336E4-DC5C-4206-AA50-065643C232BF.jpeg 770FBC6E-9548-4112-AC11-09C2DA696163.jpeg 54781F70-6910-4C36-89DA-2618BA89C623.jpeg
Great info. Was hoping it was a more off the shelf version. Trying to help a buddy plan a 609 build and he’s committed to 15” wheels.
 
Great info. Was hoping it was a more off the shelf version. Trying to help a buddy plan a 609 build and he’s committed to 15” wheels.

The only part that’s not really ‘off the shelf’ are my caliper brackets & I don’t mind sharing the .dxf files if that’ll help. If your running 8 on 6.5” lug pattern there isn’t much work to do… some cutting & cleaning up of the knuckles, drilling 4 holes. Rest is just basic refurbishment that you’d do to any junk yard parts. The time consuming part was figuring out the caliper bracket dimensions.
CE89E247-81D9-4604-A52C-20940B38BF6E.jpeg 1ADB6247-81AA-4520-A891-69A8C13079DE.jpeg
 
The only part that’s not really ‘off the shelf’ are my caliper brackets & I don’t mind sharing the .dxf files if that’ll help. If your running 8 on 6.5” lug pattern there isn’t much work to do… some cutting & cleaning up of the knuckles, drilling 4 holes. Rest is just basic refurbishment that you’d do to any junk yard parts. The time consuming part was figuring out the caliper bracket dimensions.
CE89E247-81D9-4604-A52C-20940B38BF6E.jpeg 1ADB6247-81AA-4520-A891-69A8C13079DE.jpeg
Oh he’s not. Committed to 6x5.5” and 15” wheels.
 
Great info. Was hoping it was a more off the shelf version. Trying to help a buddy plan a 609 build and he’s committed to 15” wheels.
Any 99-04 UB can be redrilled to 6x5.5
As far as fitting 15" wheels, it's a brake problem. Just make smaller brakes.
 
Would anyone happen to know what the measurement is from the upper ball joint (or center line of the ball joints) to the wheel mounting surface? I'm trying to figure out my WMS to WMS on a custom housing and don't have a Dana 50 here right now to measure.

Thanks in advance.
 
Would anyone happen to know what the measurement is from the upper ball joint (or center line of the ball joints) to the wheel mounting surface? I'm trying to figure out my WMS to WMS on a custom housing and don't have a Dana 50 here right now to measure.

Thanks in advance.

Roughly 8.50"

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I have a question, I have chromoly RCVs and for the second time now the inner shaft gets stuck in the axle seal (one next to the differential). The axle seals are OEM style from NAPA, and last time this happened to the passenger side and I had to cut the inner seal surface off of the axle shaft. Once again this has happened with seals that are a couple months old, and I'm not even sure how to pull the axle shafts out because the CV assembly pops off the C-clip, and this time both inner shafts are stuck inside the axle seals so I can't pound one out from the other side (what I did the first time).

Has this happened to anyone else? It's like the inner shaft is a couple thou too large in diameter so it becomes a complete press fit into the seal.
 
Seen crazyj post and did the same thing with a jig and mag drill. Also got the bushings from branik. Used a 1-9/16 annular, worked well.
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It's like the inner shaft is a couple thou too large in diameter so it becomes a complete press fit into the seal.
That's what it seems.
Do you have a factory shaft to measure and compare ?
 
That's what it seems.
Do you have a factory shaft to measure and compare ?
I do not. I talked to RCV and dude said he had never heard of this issue, and gave me the seal surface should be 1.563-1.567". Hopefully tonight I can wrangle the inner shaft out of the axle somehow and confirm that dimension.
 
There are a couple of versions of the D60 inner axle seal. The 05 up is a 2 piece seal assembly that seals great on pitted surfaces but a lot of people have issues with the seal half separating when removing a shaft.
The 05 down version does have this issue but often leaks a little more often.
 
I do not. I talked to RCV and dude said he had never heard of this issue, and gave me the seal surface should be 1.563-1.567". Hopefully tonight I can wrangle the inner shaft out of the axle somehow and confirm that dimension.
I think I have a set of axles laying around, I may be able to measure this weekend.
 
Ok so Years ago I bought a set of inner and outer Dana 50 knuckles from a guy. They came with these brake caliper brackets. I didn't get any more information other than they are to run light weight brakes on a 99-04 Dana 50/60 knuckle.

Anyone recognize them and maybe know who made them? I'd like to figure out what calipers, hats and rotors I need to run them.

I'm A$$uming a willwood caliper, Thin non vented plate style rotor and aluminum hat but i'd rather contact someone and get the right parts v/s guess if anyone KNOWS who made these.
 

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There are a couple of versions of the D60 inner axle seal. The 05 up is a 2 piece seal assembly that seals great on pitted surfaces but a lot of people have issues with the seal half separating when removing a shaft.
The 05 down version does have this issue but often leaks a little more often.
Are the seals cross compatible with the other years? The ones I installed are the two piece where the outer metal portion presses into the housing, and then there's an interior metal portion that spins inside of it with a rubber section pressing against the shaft. It sounds like that might be my issue. I wonder if the 05+ shafts have a smaller seal diameter to better fit that double seal design?
 
Ok so Years ago I bought a set of inner and outer Dana 50 knuckles from a guy. They came with these brake caliper brackets. I didn't get any more information other than they are to run light weight brakes on a 99-04 Dana 50/60 knuckle.

Anyone recognize them and maybe know who made them? I'd like to figure out what calipers, hats and rotors I need to run them.

I'm A$$uming a willwood caliper, Thin non vented plate style rotor and aluminum hat but i'd rather contact someone and get the right parts v/s guess if anyone KNOWS who made these.
This is a standard 5.25" willwood caliper spacing for sure.
As far as the rest, I can't help.
 
Are the seals cross compatible with the other years? The ones I installed are the two piece where the outer metal portion presses into the housing, and then there's an interior metal portion that spins inside of it with a rubber section pressing against the shaft. It sounds like that might be my issue. I wonder if the 05+ shafts have a smaller seal diameter to better fit that double seal design?
Yes cross compatible with all D60 fronts to my knowledge.
 
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