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99-04 Dana 60 & 50 Tech

fl0w3n

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I’m sure this thread won’t be nearly as popular as the 05+, but after some complaints in the other thread about muddling it with 99-04 discussion I figured at least start a small thread to consolidate info about these bastard child axles. If I quoted you or stole your info ... :flipoff2:shouldn't have posted it on the internet

To start off, according to Rangerrod and others seem to agree:
The only reasons to run a 99-04 axle.
1. To run yukon lockouts (someone pointed out chromoly gears for 05+ lockouts Rcv makes but I have yet to hear about real world feedback)
2. To go to 5 or 6 lug outers can’t do that with 05+ stuff
3. You got it cheap and you can machine unit bearings yourself. Buy the time you buy unit bearings to run 35 spline shafts it’s more than an 05+ axle.
ETA #4. They are a little easier to clean up than 05+

According to '84 Bronco II
'99-'04 is 69" WMS width vs. 72" WMS for '05+
'99-'04 has weaker unit bearings than '05+ that need to be bored out to fit 35 spline outers
'99-'04 has stock 30 spline outers vs. factory 35 spline for '05+
'99-'04 has a smaller ball joint spread (same as '92-'97) than '05+ so the ball joints wear more quickly with big tires and heavy rigs and they will not accept 1550 U-joints like the '05+ stuff (The later ~'13+ axles came with 1550 joints from the factory).
'99-'04 has smaller brakes than the '05+ axles, but that can be a good thing if you want to run 16" wheels for some reason.
'99-'04 housings are much easier to work with since you don't have to cut a huge piece of the centersection casting off if you aren't using the factory radius arm mounts on the '05+ stuff and they have more driver side tube.

A '99-'04 axle is a good axle, it is just that the '05+ stuff is plentiful and is better in almost every way. It will still be a massive upgrade over any Dana 44 axle. My biggest hesitation to run the '99-'04 axle is just the machine work involved on a wear part to run 35 spline outers which you probably want since 30 spline outers are usually the first thing that breaks on a factory axle. Unless you are running huge tires on a fairly heavy rig, the unit bearings aren't really that big of an issue, just don't use cheap part store replacement bearings. For what it's worth, the original bearings on my 7.3L that has been on 33" tires since before I owned it lasted almost 200,000 miles before I had to replace them.



Some info I am shamelessly copying from another forum/site. The year splits are confusing from what I've seen.
Dana 50 Trucks:

  • 2000-2005 Ford Excursion
  • 1998-1999 Ford F-250 3/4 Ton
  • 1999-2002 Ford F-250 Super Duty
  • 1999-2002 Ford F-350 Super Duty
The Dana 50 was phased out of the trucks in 2004, in favor of the Dana 60 and was last used in the Ford Excursion.
Dana 50

  • Ring Gear Diameter: 9-inches
  • Diff Cover Bolts: 10
  • Ring Gear Bolts: 10
  • Axle Spline Count: 30
  • Carrier Breaks: None
  • Pinion Shaft Diameter: 1.375 inches
  • Pinion Shaft Splines: 26
  • Axle Shaft Diameter: 1.50 inches (Tapers down to 1.30 inches at differential)
  • Axle Spline Diameter: 1.31 inches
  • GAWR: 5,000 lbs


The year list from the other site is very confusing, maybe we can make a better consolidated year list for the 99-04 Dana 60 since it obviously overlaps with the Dana 50 so 99-04 is deceiving.

I believe this is the year list from my research but this should be verified since I'm guessing

Dana 60 Trucks:
  • 03-04 F250 & F350
  • 99-04 F350 DRW
  • Some 02 F250
  • 00-04 F450 & F550 (8x220)
Dana 60

  • Axle Tube Diameter: 3.5″, 3/8″ wall thickness (need confirmation on wall thickness)
  • 37-3/4" spring pad spacing
  • Ring Gear Diameter: 9.75-inches
  • Ring Gear Bolts: (12) RH Thread 1/2″ X 20
  • Axle Shaft Diameter: 1.50 inches
  • Axle Spline Diameter:
  • Axle Spline Count: 35
  • Pinion Spline Count: 29
  • Pinion Spline Diameter: 1.2760″
  • Pinion Diameter: 1.625″
  • U-Joints: 1480 front universal joints
  • Diff Cover Bolts: 10-3/4 X 11-1/2″
  • Ratios: 3.54 - 5.38
  • Carrier Break: 3.54- 4.10 | 4.56 -5.38
  • GAWR: up to 6,500 lbs

Telling The Difference:​

A Dana 50 will have 229 cast into the center section webbing on the pinion support and a 1-1/8″ pinion nut.

A Dana 60 will have 248 cast into the center section webbing on the pinion support and a 1-5/16″ pinion nut.

The 229 and 248 correspond to the mm diameter of the ring gear in millimeters (mm).

2000 was the first year for the “new” Dana 60 also known as the 248.

You can also look for a sticker on the rear of the passenger side axle tube. Look for a number on the lower right of the sticker. If it’s a 229 it will be a Dana 50 and if it’s 248 it’s a Dana 60.



Courtesy of @Gunhand1 showing how much you can shave a D50 - Lets hit the dumbfuck sauce and build a stupid front axle( Shaved narrowed Dana 50)

Shaved D50.jpg
Shaved D50 2.jpg
 
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Only thing to add are that Dana 50s started getting phased out around '02, and as far as I can tell, all '03+ truck axles are Dana 60s.

The stickers are often faded/damaged, and the casting numbers can be hard to find/read. Here's the easiest dead giveaway whether the axle is a 60 or a 50; just look at the casting above the pinion. 60 is ramped, 50 is a hump:
ford_dana_50_pinion_snout.png


ford_dana_60_pinion_snout.png


EDIT: I just realized that a lot of your Dana 60 specs are for Non '99-'04 60s. The axle tubes are 3.5"diameter and the available ratios are 3.54-5.38.
 
EDIT: I just realized that a lot of your Dana 60 specs are for Non '99-'04 60s. The axle tubes are 3.5"diameter and the available ratios are 3.54-5.38.
Fixed. Still 1/2” wall?

What about the carrier breaks, aren’t there no breaks actually?



Maybe someone can post up a definitive write up on adding 35 spline and the machining

Also, I believe there’s a way to convert to run older spindle parts and get rid of unit bearing?
 
Fixed. Still 1/2” wall?

What about the carrier breaks, aren’t there no breaks actually?



Maybe someone can post up a definitive write up on adding 35 spline and the machining

Also, I believe there’s a way to convert to run older spindle parts and get rid of unit bearing?

I believe they are 3/8" wall, but not 100% on that.

Carrier break is the same as all other Dana 60s; 4.10 down, 4.56 up.

I have seen posts about being able to bolt on a '92-'97 ball joint knuckle, but I have no idea whether that is actually true.
 
Write up on machining unit bearing. No disassembly required. Knock the studs out chuck up on a lathe clamping on the front. Bore or drill all the way through to clear 1.5” shaft. I go to at least 1.562” or 1 9/16”. Then do a counterbore 1.875” in diameter .875” deep. Done.
IMG_3447.jpeg
IMG_3446.jpeg
 
Here’s a list of the parts needs to use older Yukon locking hubs in 99-04 axles in case you find a deal on a set like I did.
IMG_3448.jpeg
 
Mofab on Instagram makes double sheer steering for both 99-04 and 05+. I’m going to run this in conjunction with rock Krawler pro steering links.

Mofab steering on the 99-04 is .750” bolt with about 5” between the arms.

Rock Krawler part numbers are as follows
Rk04145L (left hand tie rod end)
Rk04145R (right hand tie rod end)
Rk04146 (drag link end)
IMG_3444.jpeg
IMG_3261.jpeg
 
Also, Dodge D60 ball joint knuckles will fit Ford inner C’s and vice versa. The Dodge unit bearings are different though and take different stub shafts.
 
Write up on machining unit bearing. No disassembly required. Knock the studs out chuck up on a lathe clamping on the front. Bore or drill all the way through to clear 1.5” shaft. I go to at least 1.562” or 1 9/16”. Then do a counterbore 1.875” in diameter .875” deep. Done.

Is 1480 the biggest joint that fits in the 50/60 knuckle? With 35 spl outers are the 1480 joints becoming the weak point? Obviously there's RCV option for some big money
 
Also, Dodge D60 ball joint knuckles will fit Ford inner C’s and vice versa. The Dodge unit bearings are different though and take different stub shafts.
Dodge unit bearings require stub shafts in place to keep the unit bearings together. Good info didn’t know the knuckles interchanged.

Is 1480 the biggest joint that fits in the 50/60 knuckle? With 35 spl outers are the 1480 joints becoming the weak point? Obviously there's RCV option for some big money
Yes 1480 is it. I would think the joint is weak point.
 
The knuckles off of a Dodge CAD 60, a 92-97 Ford balljoint 60, and the 99-04 axles all interchange.

If you really want a bastard axle take the knuckles off of a CAD 60, the hubs off of a TTB Dana 50 (obs F250) and you can re drill the spindle to the bolt pattern on the knuckle and it will all bolt up giving you the old rebuilable hubs that you can stick 35 spline outers in. Why you would do this is beyond me but you can.
 
The knuckles off of a Dodge CAD 60, a 92-97 Ford balljoint 60, and the 99-04 axles all interchange.

If you really want a bastard axle take the knuckles off of a CAD 60, the hubs off of a TTB Dana 50 (obs F250) and you can re drill the spindle to the bolt pattern on the knuckle and it will all bolt up giving you the old rebuilable hubs that you can stick 35 spline outers in. Why you would do this is beyond me but you can.
Free wheel kit for cheap is reason why.
 
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Don't the 99-04 axles alreay have locking hubs?
Yes. So sounds like you could use 99-04 knuckles out on dodge axle and get hubs too. Just not serviceable bearings. I know the dodge knuckles have a higher than normal steering arm so it may throw off your relationship to track bar swapping other knuckles on.

Edit my above post was concerning putting ford hubs on a dodge axle.
 
Casting identification will be a 225 for dana 50. 248 for Dana 60 on the lower web and BOM sticker if it's still on the axle.
 
Tydes anything special done to your D50 to survive 40s or just smart on the throttle?
 
Not the dodge D60s. Nobody wants those housings because of the CAD but I have seen the knuckles used to get budget “Higher steer”.
I've got an '02 Dodge D60 without the CAD (I think they only did that for the one year) but I'd wager nobody really seeks those out either. Heck, I still think about swapping it for a 05+ Ford SD60 mainly to get lockouts since the Spyntec kits are like $1700 now.

Pick your poison though....cheaper to buy a boneyard Ford axle and spend the time doing the work or spend more up front for bolt on. The Fords are just stronger though, so there's an added benefit.
 
Iirc Adamwende has built a few axles with 94-02 dodge outters with pretty good success. As others have mentioned, if the knuckle/ub/stub sucks, there's lot of options to change it out. Even the TG Fab knuckles look pretty good and I believe are meant to work with that C.

The nice thing about those dodge axles is that no one wants them and they're about free.
 
The 450/550 variant is a wider track, longer inners, different knuckles for the bigger brakes.

If theres a tube wall thickness difference, this will be the thicker version. Also reckon the same for gawr, this would be the higher rated one.
 
The 450/550 variant is a wider track, longer inners, different knuckles for the bigger brakes.

If theres a tube wall thickness difference, this will be the thicker version. Also reckon the same for gawr, this would be the higher rated one.

Are you positive the 99-04 F450/550 is a wider axle? I thought that started in 05+

99-04 450s and 550s did not have flares and by eye looked the same width as an F350 Drw. I can measure bj to bj on my beam axle to compare, but 4wd could be different.

Edit:

Ok, I should have googled before responding. Looks like it's 1" per side, not the 5" per side or whatever the 05+ is

" Looking at replacement inner axles, the measurements are about an inch longer each side for 99-04 f450/550. Overall, wms to wms was also confirmed to be about 2" overall wider from a seller on EastBay who has one "

Can anyone confirm what the minimum size wheel that clears the F550 brakes?
 
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What’s that about giving dodge axles away :lmao:

Fuckin tube snapped out of the center chunk and guy is “firm” on a grand.

IMG_6990.png
 
I have a 99-04 248 axle sitting on the approach to my shop if anyone needs measurements or pics. It's a dually, but everything else will be the same.
 
What’s that about giving dodge axles away :lmao:

Fuckin tube snapped out of the center chunk and guy is “firm” on a grand.

IMG_6990.png
To be fair, it's a kingpin....and people think those are gold for whatever reason.
 
Not the dodge D60s. Nobody wants those housings because of the CAD but I have seen the knuckles used to get budget “Higher steer”.
Steering is a good bit higher than the SD knuckle, but a straight 1.5" tierod will hit an aftermarket (Barnes/RS/etc) diff cover if mounted below the knuckle, even with offset heims. It will clear by 1/8"-1/4" mounted above the knuckle. I'll be fabbing some double shear tabs to get the tierod and drag link above the knuckle.
 
Fwiw, the ruffstuff covers stick out a very unnecessary amount. I have one on my front and a chassis unlimited on the back, it's a big difference between the 2.

So either modifying the RS cover or going with a different low pro cover would help clear steering a bunch.
 
Now that you mention it, I have the lower profile Barnes front cover that helps but still hits. I looked at sectioning the cover, but its pretty tight to the ring gear at the problem area.

I'll be doing something like this, with the drag link on top. This is the 99-02'ish dodge knuckle.
Dodge Knuckle.jpg
 
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