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99-04 Dana 60 & 50 Tech

Now that you mention it, I have the lower profile Barnes front cover that helps but still hits. I looked at sectioning the cover, but its pretty tight to the ring gear at the problem area.

I'll be doing something like this, with the drag link on top. This is the 99-02'ish dodge knuckle.
Dodge Knuckle.jpg

That's the 94-99 knuckle. Dead give away is BJ orientation and cast in caliper bracket. 00+ is AAM style. Inverted BJ and bolt on caliper bracket.

I bolted 97 F350 knuckles out on my 96 Ram 2500 with '99 HD inverted T steering.
 
So with the dodge knuckle you need to stick to dodge unit bearings? Are there lug pattern choices with the dodge? I think that’s a minor pro to the 99-04 Ford stuff that you can run 5 or 6 lug unlike the 05+

I’d think a simple approach would be inverted T as well if that is beefy enough for the application
 
So with the dodge knuckle you need to stick to dodge unit bearings? Are there lug pattern choices with the dodge? I think that’s a minor pro to the 99-04 Ford stuff that you can run 5 or 6 lug unlike the 05+

I’d think a simple approach would be inverted T as well if that is beefy enough for the application
I’m not sure if Ford unit bearings will fit but as mentioned before, a D50 or D60 spindle will bolt on and then you can run 5 or 6 lug hubs. It’s an option, may or may not make sense for specific instances.
 
The dodge and ford knuckles are significantly different thicknesses. Something like mill 3/4" to 1" off the face of the ford one for them to match.
 
So with the dodge knuckle you need to stick to dodge unit bearings? Are there lug pattern choices with the dodge? I think that’s a minor pro to the 99-04 Ford stuff that you can run 5 or 6 lug unlike the 05+

I’d think a simple approach would be inverted T as well if that is beefy enough for the application

All Ford UB is 8 x 170. Ram is 8 x 6.5

The bolt pattern and spindle/Ub register on a 94-08 ram is identical to a 99-04 Ford UB. The issue is the stub alignment with BJ axis (to my knowledge)

This guy sells free spin kits for ram, and other vehicles, utilizing modified Ford UBs.


Personally, there's no reason to use a dodge D60, unless it's in a dodge.
 
Write up on machining unit bearing. No disassembly required. Knock the studs out chuck up on a lathe clamping on the front. Bore or drill all the way through to clear 1.5” shaft. I go to at least 1.562” or 1 9/16”. Then do a counterbore 1.875” in diameter .875” deep. Done.
IMG_3447.jpeg
IMG_3446.jpeg
Any info on the bearing for the stub? Is it the same as the 05+ or something else?

I can bore that out no problem, so thanks for the guidance!
 
Iirc Adamwende has built a few axles with 94-02 dodge outters with pretty good success. As others have mentioned, if the knuckle/ub/stub sucks, there's lot of options to change it out. Even the TG Fab knuckles look pretty good and I believe are meant to work with that C.

The nice thing about those dodge axles is that no one wants them and they're about free.
Yep! Been running dodge UB shit for years with no issues. One broken stub in about 5 years. (1.6L helps with that haha)
 
Here’s some more food for thought…

99-04 SD can use spidertrax unit bearings. (40 spline 😎)

05+ can too
You just need the Pro-Series UBs and custom stubs.
 
you guys need to go back to your 05+ thread :flipoff2:

I can’t see the need to go to 40 spline with 1480 joint. If you need to go there you’re running drive flanges and 1550 joints so 05+ it is.
 
Or the RCV's are warrantied up to 47" tire with 35 spline if you want to spend that money
 
So I've wondered if 35 spline through out, usually the stub is the weak point since its short and has no twist. Would it make sense to go 40 spline stubs with 35 spline inners? Like a mini version of the direct spline big bell 05+ rcv's?
 
Like above, isn’t the point that the 1480 joint is the weak link
 
Or the RCV's are warrantied up to 47" tire with 35 spline if you want to spend that money
they still break so what's the point ?

So I've wondered if 35 spline through out, usually the stub is the weak point since its short and has no twist. Would it make sense to go 40 spline stubs with 35 spline inners? Like a mini version of the direct spline big bell 05+ rcv's?
The R&P is the weak link is you have 300M 35sp through.
 
If the 35sp are stronger than the R&D, what's the point of going to 40sp ?
I don't see one, and I'd never spend that kind of money on that setup personally, I was simply pointing out a different option instead of 1480 joint and 40 spline outers. RCV still has the part number listed so I'm guessing someone somewhere see's a point in buying them :confused:
 
The point of this thread was not to figure out how to build a 99-04 that's stronger than the proven 05+, although I'm sure there's a case out there somewhere where that makes sense for someone to at least try. And if that tech exists, why not share it here.


I imagine there's more people than just myself who are interested in tech for something between a full blown big bell 05+ 609 rock bouncer never break hardcore setup and a low pinion dana 30. Or the 05+ just doesn't make sense for the build for whatever reason.

The 99-04 D60 and D50 seem to still be readily available at junkyards, at least out here, where the 05+ must get filtered off before they reach the pick-n-pull's so it's rare to see.

I'm still trying to figure out if the 05+ is right for my next build, and since I don't know I started this thread to learn more about the D50 and 99-04 D60
 
The D60 size RCVs with 35 spline shafts are pretty darn good actually! Sure they’re a bit pricey, but lifetime warranty. Spend the thousand + on chromo u-joint shafts, break a couple and then tell me the RCVs aren’t worth it. I broke one rcv CV joint and they ended up replacing the entire long side inner, joint and stub for free. Unless you’re like the 1% that floors the throttle constantly no matter what…you’ll most likely be just fine.
 
The D60 size RCVs with 35 spline shafts are pretty darn good actually! Sure they’re a bit pricey, but lifetime warranty. Spend the thousand + on chromo u-joint shafts, break a couple and then tell me the RCVs aren’t worth it. I broke one rcv CV joint and they ended up replacing the entire long side inner, joint and stub for free. Unless you’re like the 1% that floors the throttle constantly no matter what…you’ll most likely be just fine.
Agreed. I've seen them hold up really well under heavy rear steer applications for several years. Yeah 1550s are better....but RCV 1480 300Ms are as good as it gets for that size.
 
This is gettin stupid probably … but I’ll ask anyway

Any idea the strength comparison between an RCV in 1310/1350 size compared to a standard 1480 joint?
 
This is gettin stupid probably … but I’ll ask anyway

Any idea the strength comparison between an RCV in 1310/1350 size compared to a standard 1480 joint?
My best guess would be similar with straight wheels. Turned, I give the edge to the D44 RCV joints. That’s a really hard one to call though. The 1480 joint strength is going to somewhat depend on the condition of the shaft ears…
 
1000004309.jpg


Figured I'd throw this in here idea on prices...
I guess you’re local to me. I’ve eyed that one.

I tentatively have a deal lined up to trade one of my RC crawlers for a stripped 50/10.25 with a WFO truss, I assume you’ve seen that one too. I wasn’t motivated enough to get myself to the pick and pull for the Labor Day 50% off, according to Row52 there might have been a 99-04 60 or at least a 50 and it would have been around $150 each
 
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