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99-04 Dana 60 & 50 Tech

Grendel said:
Chester, NH.

I am looking for factory tube to extend an axle. As listed here, it's 3.5″, 3/8″ wall. I need about 7" (that's what she said :flipoff2: )
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That just so happens to be the dimensions of toooba that RuffStuff uses to make Fab 10” housings. And I have drops, feet of them actually, in that dimension. I’m nowhere near NH though.
 
Dumb question, are inner Cs side specific? Looks symmetrical and I don’t think I’ve ever noticed anyone marking sides when salvaging inner Cs, but I want to double check before I be dumb



IMG_3451.jpeg
 
Anyone have the height off the tube of the cast in spring pad? I am not near my 2004 D60 from an F450 and want to have a spring pad bent up.

Also, what's the tube ID and OD?
 
As mentioned further up the thread, Im looking to widen the short side on one of these axles approx 3".What are you guys using for sleeves on these when cutting the tubes? I'm thinking just a piece of 2.5" sch 40 pipe, have it machined down from 2.875" to 2.77" and have the weld seam knocked out of the inside. Would end up around .151" wall thickness roughly. Plenty thick for keeping things square. Honestly thinking of sleeving both sides (similar to what the Jeepers do on their D30's) just because a little over 1/2" wall axle tube would be nicer than the little under 3/8" in factory form.
 
Big4x4ride said:
As mentioned further up the thread, Im looking to widen the short side on one of these axles approx 3".What are you guys using for sleeves on these when cutting the tubes? I'm thinking just a piece of 2.5" sch 40 pipe, have it machined down from 2.875" to 2.77" and have the weld seam knocked out of the inside. Would end up around .151" wall thickness roughly. Plenty thick for keeping things square. Honestly thinking of sleeving both sides (similar to what the Jeepers do on their D30's) just because a little over 1/2" wall axle tube would be nicer than the little under 3/8" in factory form.
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2.5" sch40 is what I used. Minimal machining as you mentioned.
 
Grendel said:
That was from an 04 F450 variant?
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No sir, and I just realized it sounds like I’m trying answer for you when that was not my intention. Arse replied to an old post and I thought it was about the 3 1/2 3/8” wall. If you are still looking for useable material I apologize for attempting to answer for you

The stuff I sent was from RuffStuff fab 10” housings
 
JR4X said:
No sir, and I just realized it sounds like I’m trying answer for you when that was not my intention. Arse replied to an old post and I thought it was about the 3 1/2 3/8” wall. If you are still looking for useable material I apologize for attempting to answer for you

The stuff I sent was from RuffStuff fab 10” housings
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Thanks Sir. I was trying to figure out why the OD was off.

I have an inner sleeve already (arse_sidewards did it) - I just need 8" of 2004 D60 outer toob, to extend. (that's what she said :flipoff2: ) .
 
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What is the consensus for caster on these things? I have 7ish degrees, JKU on 40's and it's squirrelly as hell. I am also in the process of building a different housing (widening the housing 3") so I have the opportunity to roll the C's to add some caster. I know I've seen some people mention 10-11 degrees when running these in a Jeep.
 
Big4x4ride said:
What is the consensus for caster on these things? I have 7ish degrees, JKU on 40's and it's squirrelly as hell. I am also in the process of building a different housing (widening the housing 3") so I have the opportunity to roll the C's to add some caster. I know I've seen some people mention 10-11 degrees when running these in a Jeep.
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Pull drive shaft and put more in it and drive it. Double check toe.
 
You would think that would be enough. Yes double check your toe. If it's near zero that is bad, should have a touch toe in.

I had way better steering feel with a Jeep TJ length pitman but I couldn't get full lock to lock. I have a Waggy length arm now which gives me full range but did add a bit of over response.

Also make sure if you have no keyway that the box is perfectly centered.wjen straight ahead. They are variable ratio.
 
Big4x4ride said:
What is the consensus for caster on these things? I have 7ish degrees, JKU on 40's and it's squirrelly as hell. I am also in the process of building a different housing (widening the housing 3") so I have the opportunity to roll the C's to add some caster. I know I've seen some people mention 10-11 degrees when running these in a Jeep.
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I built 12* into my axle. Not running yet, so no help there. Main reason I did it was to have the extra return to center with full hydro and street driving.
 
Rangerrod said:
Write up on machining unit bearing. No disassembly required. Knock the studs out chuck up on a lathe clamping on the front. Bore or drill all the way through to clear 1.5” shaft. I go to at least 1.562” or 1 9/16”. Then do a counterbore 1.875” in diameter .875” deep. Done.
IMG_3447.jpeg
IMG_3446.jpeg
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Bringing this back

Then do a counterbore 1.875” in diameter .875” deep

What is this for? did you install a bearing, or brass sleeve on the back side of the unit bearing for the axle shaft to ride on?
 
txzuk1988 said:
Bringing this back

Then do a counterbore 1.875” in diameter .875” deep

What is this for? did you install a bearing, or brass sleeve on the back side of the unit bearing for the axle shaft to ride on?
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That counter bore would be for installing the spindle bearing used on the non UB Dana 60's. You do not need to perform this thou, you can just use a bronze bushing like Branik sells instead, Its the proper OD for the existing bore, and proper ID for the shaft itself. Per multiple sources, doing this counter bore creates to weak of a wall on the "spindle", and creates a future failure point.
 
txzuk1988 said:
Bringing this back

Then do a counterbore 1.875” in diameter .875” deep

What is this for? did you install a bearing, or brass sleeve on the back side of the unit bearing for the axle shaft to ride on?
Click to expand...
To install a spindle bearing on the back. I ended up installing a plastic bushing from trail gear from an older Dana 60 application.

But branik does make bushings that don’t require this. And this is the way I would go now. Just run a hole saw through to open up the bore over 1.5” like the other post I made.

branikmotorsports.com

Replacement Bronze Bushing - 99-04 SD Unit Bearing

[email protected]
branikmotorsports.com branikmotorsports.com

Edit: bigride beat me to it.
 
Big4x4ride said:
Per multiple sources, doing this counter bore creates to weak of a wall on the "spindle", and creates a future failure point.
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Yes, it does.

Those OE spindles (without any machining) stretch with big tires and abuse, that's why Spidertrax originally started making their own spindles out of chromoly.
 
I’m now further along in collecting parts to build my 99-04 based 609 axle

Are weld on high steer arms and Reid knuckles the only high steer options? I haven’t seen any machined options for a bolt on arm like Weaver and others do for the 05+

I have a set of 94-99 Dodge knuckles I’m going to play with using a unit bearing spacer to bolt 99-04 unit bearings to, but then that will open up a problem with a brake setup.
 
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