Vulcan 8 x 8

[CarterKraft]

There are eight outlets or inlets to the reservoir. Two of them have big filters inside the tank. Looks like a PITA to change them. I only saw them from the filler cap.

Should there be some kind of pressure relief inline some where? Or is that internal to the pumps?

The charge, and crossover (drive pressure) relief valves will be in the pumps.

those in-tank filters will be key to letting you know if there was a failure, you might want to get those out ASAP and cut them open to look for "yellow" iron, brass etc.
There are no yellow iron wear materials in a hydro system so almost ANY yellow iron is bad.

 

[WaterH]

The charge, and crossover (drive pressure) relief valves will be in the pumps.

those in-tank filters will be key to letting you know if there was a failure, you might want to get those out ASAP and cut them open to look for "yellow" iron, brass etc.
There are no yellow iron wear materials in a hydro system so almost ANY yellow iron is bad.

This may sound weird, but I think the filters are out in the open. What I mean is it looks like a big car filter without the “cup” on it. I can see corrugated filter material from the filler cap. I will try to get a pic. I need to look at how I get them out. Not sure if there’s a big plate on the side or top. Didn’t notice any orange, but can’t see them real good.

 

[CarterKraft]

This may sound weird, but I think the filters are out in the open. What I mean is it looks like a big car filter without the “cup” on it. I can see corrugated filter material from the filler cap. I will try to get a pic. I need to look at how I get them out. Not sure if there’s a big plate on the side or top. Didn’t notice any orange, but can’t see them real good.

Thats sort of normal for in tank filters, or suction strainers, not sure which exactly you are looking at.

 

[WaterH]

Thats sort of normal for in tank filters, or suction strainers, not sure which exactly you are looking at.

OK, BTW, there is another big hose on each pump that goes directly to the reservoir and I believe to the two filters.

 

[CarterKraft]

OK, BTW, there is another big hose on each pump that goes directly to the reservoir and I believe to the two filters.

Those are likely strainers and the charge pumps are then internal to the pumps.

 

[WaterH]

So I went out today with the plan to start the motor. Made a gravity feed fuel tank.

Had an old K&N filter I put on the intake and cracked all the injectors. Hooked up the stock battery cables to some jumpers to the golf cart. (5-6 volt battery’s=30 volts) Had a little wire on the starter selinoid to spark on the pos lead and nothing.

The jumper cables were in not to good of shape, so I got some good ones out of my Bronco. Same setup and a slight click.

Figured the long stock cables were some of the problem, so I moved the cart to the side and hooked the cables direct to the starter. Slight click.

Hit the starter with a hammer while sparking the lead and got a good solid click. (Now we’re getting somewhere)

Hit the lead again and got a frying bacon sound from the golf cart. Look over to see smoke. The golf cart requires removing the cables that join the batteries and wire brushing every now and then. Of course, I haven’t done that in more than “now and then”. Cleaned them up and actually had to put new terminal ends on two cables. PITA.

Hooked it back up and hit the lead again. It actually turned over. I went back and checked the fuel tank and found that the rubber hose on the injector pump was cracked and leaked all my fuel out while I was screwing with the cart.

Filled the tank again and started cranking the motor. After about twenty seconds, it turned easier because of oil pressure, but I never got any fuel at the injectors. Well shit. Put everything away.

Got to do some reading on the net and found out that there is a fuel selinoid on the injection pump. I don’t know why I didn’t check for this as I have the same setup on both of my Cummins engines.

Ill try again in a day or two.

 

[Twankie]

Take the filter off and have a piece of wood nearby to slap over the intake Incase it decides to try and run away when it finally fires off

 

[WaterH]

Take the filter off and have a piece of wood nearby to slap over the intake Incase it decides to try and run away when it finally fires off

i was thinking about that. I plan to make a little switch box so I can switch the selinoid and then hit a button for start. I want this out in the back where I can work the throttle. Today I was in the cab and it would be a pain to climb out quickly to get back there. If it should run away, I could then switch the selinoid off. At the worst, I only have 1/2 cup of fuel in that jug.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Take the filter off and have a piece of wood nearby to slap over the intake Incase it decides to try and run away when it finally fires off

Excellent advise.

 

[2big bronco]

I

i was thinking about that. I plan to make a little switch box so I can switch the selinoid and then hit a button for start. I want this out in the back where I can work the throttle. Today I was in the cab and it would be a pain to climb out quickly to get back there. If it should run away, I could then switch the selinoid off. At the worst, I only have 1/2 cup of fuel in that jug.

If it runs away the fuel in the jug or shutting off the fuel wont fix anything

 

[WaterH]

So I wired up a little panal. Just a switch for the fuel selinoid and a start button.

I pulled the air cleaner and got a piece of 2 by 8 as recommended. Cranked it for a while and no fuel at the injectors. I noticed two terminals on the injector pump. One is where I have the green wire and the other is to the right in a split rubber socket.

Both of them will make a click sound when I put 24 volts to them. Is it possible there are two fuel solenoids? I tried cranking with the other selinoid hooked up and still no fuel at injector lines. (Not both hooked at the same time)

 

[WaterH]

I

If it runs away the fuel in the jug or shutting off the fuel wont fix anything

Well, there are different kinds of “run away” . Sometimes it’s fuel in the atmosphere (like a propane leak nearby), but most times it’s no fuel control. Very rarely is it running on its own lubrication oil. I guess the latter is what your referring to.

 

[2big bronco]

Well, there are different kinds of “run away” . Sometimes it’s fuel in the atmosphere (like a propane leak nearby), but most times it’s no fuel control. Very rarely is it running on its own lubrication oil. I guess the latter is what your referring to.

Yes the latter is what I was referring to and the only way I have personally seen it happen.... well i suppose a stuck throttle on a gas engine would sorta be the same.

 

[CarterKraft]

Well, there are different kinds of “run away” . Sometimes it’s fuel in the atmosphere (like a propane leak nearby), but most times it’s no fuel control. Very rarely is it running on its own lubrication oil. I guess the latter is what your referring to.

A true runaway in my experience is when it runs on its own lube oil and its extremely easy with turbocharged or supercharged engines that have lube oil pressure fed bearings.

Another source is elevated oil levels and CCV pumping, this one is dangerous because the oil is already atomized, it will run nearly smoke free to infinity rpm.

 

[aczlan]

So I wired up a little panal. Just a switch for the fuel selinoid and a start button.

I pulled the air cleaner and got a piece of 2 by 8 as recommended. Cranked it for a while and no fuel at the injectors. I noticed two terminals on the injector pump. One is where I have the green wire and the other is to the right in a split rubber socket.

Both of them will make a click sound when I put 24 volts to them. Is it possible there are two fuel solenoids? I tried cranking with the other selinoid hooked up and still no fuel at injector lines. (Not both hooked at the same time)

From what I found looking online, one is the fuel shutoff, the other is cold start timing advance and/or high idle (depending on how it was setup).

From: Injection Pump Wiring

Also, from Steel Soldiers, those solenoids MAY be 12V, NOT 24V if that was the same motor as what was put into the CUCV:

6.2L wiring harness

Hello all. Just joined! Had a question. I currently have a 1986 6.2L motor that i just picked up. it is from a military vehicle and it has the 24v starter. and has dual alternators. and the engine came with no wiring harness. My question is first, does someone have one that they would be...

www.steelsoldiers.com

Aaron Z

Aaron Z

 

[CarterKraft]

From what I found looking online, one is the fuel shutoff, the other is cold start timing advance and/or high idle (depending on how it was setup).

From: Injection Pump Wiring

Also, from Steel Soldiers, those solenoids MAY be 12V, NOT 24V if that was the same motor as what was put into the CUCV:

6.2L wiring harness

Hello all. Just joined! Had a question. I currently have a 1986 6.2L motor that i just picked up. it is from a military vehicle and it has the 24v starter. and has dual alternators. and the engine came with no wiring harness. My question is first, does someone have one that they would be...

www.steelsoldiers.com

Aaron Z

Aaron Z

Yeah I stepped right over the actual question

 

[WaterH]

I found some stuff about the second terminal was a “fast idle”. I also found where someone else trying to start one took the cover off. I took mine off. There’s three screws that hold it on. I said to myself “self, don’t turn the cover over and dump the three screws“ . Then I proceeded to remove the cover. After inspecting the inside, I turned the cover over and dumped the screws. Grrrrrrrrrrrr. I found two right away. I have search the grass with a magnet and found every screw and piece of wire known to man but not that third screw. I ran another magnet all over the front of the engine and anywhere that screw could hang up. No joy. I’m going to wait till dark and look again with a light.

While I had the cover off, I filled the pump with deisel and cranked the engine. Still nothing at the injectors. Do you suppose it must have pressure from the lift pump? I just have gravity feed right now. The lift pump is not even plumbed. I guess I could gravity feed the lift pump and let it feed the injection pump.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

I found some stuff about the second terminal was a “fast idle”. I also found where someone else trying to start one took the cover off. I took mine off. There’s three screws that hold it on. I said to myself “self, don’t turn the cover over and dump the three screws“ . Then I proceeded to remove the cover. After inspecting the inside, I turned the cover over and dumped the screws. Grrrrrrrrrrrr. I found two right away. I have search the grass with a magnet and found every screw and piece of wire known to man but not that third screw. I ran another magnet all over the front of the engine and anywhere that screw could hang up. No joy. I’m going to wait till dark and look again with a light.

While I had the cover off, I filled the pump with deisel and cranked the engine. Still nothing at the injectors. Do you suppose it must have pressure from the lift pump? I just have gravity feed right now. The lift pump is not even plumbed. I guess I could gravity feed the lift pump and let it feed the injection pump.

Be careful when reinstalling the cover, it goes on a certain way. Drop it on offset to the dual screw side and slide it tward the single bolt lining up the holes. That linkage stuff can get hung up otherwise.

 

[Mud Rod]

I believe you need fuel pressure to the injection pump, more than gravity fed, to prime the injection pump. I am thinking 3.5-7 psi?

 

[WaterH]

Found the screw in the radiator shroud. (Amping the pine needles) I will run the gravity feed to the lift pump before my next try. I need to get some new fuel line.

 

[WaterH]

Update,
I some fuel liine and hooked up the fuel pump. Put some fuel in a jug and hooked it to the inlet side of the pump. Turned the engine over a bunch and nothing came out the outlet side. So I ordered a new fuel pump. That was yesterday. To days got to thinking, I was checking a hardline that was connected to the fuel pump outlet. Not sure if that line was open. So I removed it from the pump and blew in the inlet hose. Fuel came out the outlet side of the pump. I blew in the hardline and that’s a big “no go”.

I ran a wire in the hardline and pulled out some grime. Blew air through it and hooked it back up to the pump. Put the outlet in a cup and turned the engine over. It pumped a half a cup of black shit and than came clean deisel. Hooked the line to the injection pump and cranked the engine. Nothing coming out of the injector lines. Got to looking at the injection pump and realized I hadn’t screwed the “lost screw” down tight. That screw happens to ground the shut off selinoid.

Tightened it down and cranked the engine. Finnelly, some fuel was coming out at the injectors. Went around and tightened them all down. Cranked it some more and nothing. Got a can of starter fluid and began turning it over again. While it was turning, I gave it a blast of fluid and dam if it didn’t fire a couple times. I played with it for another half an hour while it got dark. It never started, but I made lots of smoke.

One issue I have is both exhausts are some what crimped. The rear or right bank is only slightly crimped and it was definitely smoking. The front or left bank goes under the truck and got collapsed against the frame. It still has some holes, but it might be restricted. I don’t know if it was smoking because it is underneath and I was getting fogged on top. Do you think that restricted pipe could stop it from starting?

Couple other questions, I sprayed the starter fluid again, but the engine didnt like it. Sounded like metal on metal pinging. Also, do I want it right at idle or some throttle for starting?

I made a video, but I’m can’t figure out how to post it. Doesn’t really matter as it didn’t start.

 

[WaterH]

Woo hoo, it started!

Ran like shit for about 20 seconds and then it took off for the moon. I was about to put the board in front of the intake when I realized I was holding the throttle at full. When I brought it to idle, it quit. It started back right away at half throttle and I was able to slowly back it off to an idle. Now it will start easy on just 24 volts at idle. (Before I was spinning it with 30 volts.) When I shut off the fuel selinoid, it stops right away as it should. It really smoked at first and there’s a trail of rust where the pipes exit, but it is not really smoking much now.

Im totally pleased. I also feel much better about dumping some money in it.

Woohoo again. I wish I could post a video.

 

[Flatbed]

That's awesome man, take victory lap!

 

[2big bronco]

So cool. This is my favorite thread to follow right now

 

[WaterH]

So I decided to run the motor some more. I want to fully warm it up. Before doing this I have few things I want to get done.

First, the exhaust pipes were both collapsed. One against the frame and a hydro line. The other was bent almost to kink. I was able to remove the bent one and straighten it somewhat in a vice. That opened it up to near full cross section. Bolted it back on and now It doesnt point at the frame either.

The other pipe was not as good, so I cut it off and put an extension on it.

You can also see a new hydro line I had made up. This short line was completely ripped off and was probubly the thing that shut the machine down. There are two other lines that have most of the outside rubber and wire sheath gone, but I don’t see an actual hole. I have re-essembled all the large lines and caped the fittings where small lines were. The resivour is back in and I dumped 5 gallons of hydro in it. I found the bottom of the hydro tank was dented a bit. (Up wards dent) This thing must have really slammed on some rocks. Anyways, the corner of the resivour leaks just slightly. Not fast enough to cause a problem for testing, but it will need to get fixed if I get This running.

I made up a crude throttle quadrant so I can set the throttle at fast, idle or in between.

You can also see that I installed a small oil pressure gauge in that pic. I’m sure it has oil pressure by the way it cranks, but I want to confirm it. I hope that is a oil port and not the water jacket. If so, I can move it.

I also got a gallon of universal coolant to top off the radiator.

I got a new oil filter and I plan to change the oil before I run it. I want to run it long enough to open the thermostat and heat up the radiator. Now that I have hydro in the resivour, should I expect the pumps to bleed themselves? I’m not concerned about pumping right now, but I just don’t want them running dry. If they were to pump fluid to the motors, it shouldn’t matter since the ”tow pins” are in the tow location. (It would be embarrassing to have this run into my garage)

Is there anything else I should do before I run this?

 

[2big bronco]

Set the camera up on a tripod..... not between the machine and garage

 

[CarterKraft]

So I decided to run the motor some more. I want to fully warm it up. Before doing this I have few things I want to get done.

First, the exhaust pipes were both collapsed. One against the frame and a hydro line. The other was bent almost to kink. I was able to remove the bent one and straighten it somewhat in a vice. That opened it up to near full cross section. Bolted it back on and now It doesnt point at the frame either.

The other pipe was not as good, so I cut it off and put an extension on it.

You can also see a new hydro line I had made up. This short line was completely ripped off and was probubly the thing that shut the machine down. There are two other lines that have most of the outside rubber and wire sheath gone, but I don’t see an actual hole. I have re-essembled all the large lines and caped the fittings where small lines were. The resivour is back in and I dumped 5 gallons of hydro in it. I found the bottom of the hydro tank was dented a bit. (Up wards dent) This thing must have really slammed on some rocks. Anyways, the corner of the resivour leaks just slightly. Not fast enough to cause a problem for testing, but it will need to get fixed if I get This running.

I made up a crude throttle quadrant so I can set the throttle at fast, idle or in between.

You can also see that I installed a small oil pressure gauge in that pic. I’m sure it has oil pressure by the way it cranks, but I want to confirm it. I hope that is a oil port and not the water jacket. If so, I can move it.

I also got a gallon of universal coolant to top off the radiator.

I got a new oil filter and I plan to change the oil before I run it. I want to run it long enough to open the thermostat and heat up the radiator. Now that I have hydro in the resivour, should I expect the pumps to bleed themselves? I’m not concerned about pumping right now, but I just don’t want them running dry. If they were to pump fluid to the motors, it shouldn’t matter since the ”tow pins” are in the tow location. (It would be embarrassing to have this run into my garage)

Is there anything else I should do before I run this?

If it makes pressure you may have more leaks than you planned.

The important thing at this point is charge pressure. It will be the line from the "third" pump to the two drive pumps. There might have been a charge pressure sensor possibly that giant sensor we talked about earlier.

If you put a gauge there it will need to be a 5k psi or so, because I'm case something is stuck it will peg out your 500 psi "charge" gauge.

 

[WaterH]

One of the small lines goes from the filter manifold to the resivour. I’m thinking it will relieve the charge pressure. Also, I don’t plan on running this much faster than idle. If it was to build any real pressure, I would think it will stall the motor. Sound logical?

 

[WaterH]

Set the camera up on a tripod..... not between the machine and garage

Now that I know it starts, it won’t be exciting. (Unless it actually does move)

I really need to figure out videos again. I took a couple back when I was building the HEMTT and I was able to put them on the net. But now I can’t get anything to load.

 

[CarterKraft]

One of the small lines goes from the filter manifold to the resivour. I’m thinking it will relieve the charge pressure. Also, I don’t plan on running this much faster than idle. If it was to build any real pressure, I would think it will stall the motor. Sound logical?

Let's see how it goes I guess.
I'm not really sure where you are with all the lines.