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Looks like you could even honk the horn one-handedA standard pilot joystick with counter steer resolver block would get you "skid steer" steering from hydraulics if desired.
Item #3 218-6119 can use many different joysticks. One joystck allows you to drink beer and drive one handed...
Or launch rockets, fire the minigun etc.Looks like you could even honk the horn one-handed
Aaron Z
I'll have to reply tomorrow on my computer following aczlan's numbering convention.
Of course, it's easier to run the thread off track if we get out in front of you
Both pumps and motors can have case drains depending on the design.
That would be normal, it would be a closed circuit system that runs the same fluid back and forth with the 300 PSI charge pump used to make up the losses through case drains on the pumps and motors.
My guess would be plumbed into #2 inside the valve block, but that's just spitballing.
Ah.
Were there hoses hooked up to it? It looked like there were hoses somewhat recently hooked up to it from the difference in rust/dirt on the connectors.
You should be able to swap the coil to a 12 volt coil, you might get a couple 12 volt coils to test with.
Sorry, Alanmorton from the secret projects forum that I linked to on the previous page, here's the link again: Standard Manufacturing Co. Excalibur
Looking, I guess he was last seen there in Sep 2020 (time flies, 2020 doesn't seem like it was that long ago).Alanmorton https://www.secretprojects.co.uk/threads/standard-manufacturing-co-excalibur.4814/#post-398910 said:
I would imagine that it's a standard pattern on the hydraulic input and output sides and they probably have something that could drop in.
Not sure how that part works, some pictures of the damaged and non damaged controls might help that make more sense.
Depends on how the controls are setup.
That's why it took me till evening to respond, had the picture finished before I left for work in the morning but didn't have time to look at it and type up my thoughts at work on my computer.
No problem, we can likely figure it out from the other motor, its hoses are still intact?
WaterH if you remove the nut on the top of the coil it should slide right off, the shaft diameter and exterior dimensions will get you replacement part info.
)I agree, but it depends on how much is left of the wiring.
Thinking down the road:
IMO, you are going to want to be able to control each wheel separately, IIRC you have talked about teeing them together, but if you tee the cylinders together and have more weight in the back than in the front it will end up "leaning" to the front or back.
You could split the suspension into 4 "zones" (LF, LR, RF, RR) and do it with 4 valves, but then you will lose the ability to change a tire without a jack (probably one of the cooler parts of this rig
Aaron Z
Get a pic of where the hose goes to those two canisters. My guess is a 1985 pressure sensor but I have no idea really.Update,
I removed the air cleaner and hydro resivour. Those two items give me a lot better view of the pumps. Now it appears there are three pumps. Two main pumps you can see here and one smaller one in between and below.
If you look close at the top of the picture, there two cylinder things with hydro hose on one side and wires on the other mounted on the fire wall. The hoses go to each pump. What would they be?
Got a pic of data plate, but I need to clean it better.
Once i got the resivour off, I could get to the wheel cylinder lines for the right side. So I jacked it up with the tractor.
I made up these shut offs so I could jack it up, close the valve and move the tractor to the other side. (I got called away before I could do that.)
That’s all for now.
You can see where one goes in that pic. It’s the reddish hose that is between the big hose and the spring. It goes to the pump just under that big hose. The other canister/hose goes to the same place on the other pump. (Can’t see it there)
Accumulator could be that small for sure but they don't have electrical components in my machines.
They have data plates on them, but are painted over. I will try to clean one.
In my imagination 1985 military grade pressure sensors could be REALLY over complicated
In my imagination 1985 military grade pressure sensors could be REALLY over complicated
The main pumps aren't complicated from my view of them. Driving the PWM to control them might be but we can cross that bridge later.Did a lot more de-cluttering.
I got to looking at the third little pump below. It has just two hoses, one of them goes to the resivour and the other to a big manifold. There are no electrical sensors. The hoses are about 1/2” ID. I believe this pump is just like a power steering pump. It probably only handles things like jacking up the wheels or maybe the brakes. If the big pumps make 6000 lbs. pressure, maybe this pump handles the controls also. I’m assuming the 6000 lbs. is only for driving the wheels.
Im thinking about trying to get the motor started. A few years ago I cranked it. It cranked hard for a bit and then turned easier. I figure the oil got to the bearings is why it started doing that. I never did get it started, but it sounded promising. Today I checked the oil. (Still in the lines on the dip stick) I checked the radiator. (About 3/4 full, over the engine) I pulled the plug in the middle of the accessory drive shown here.
I looked inside the hole and was surprised to find it was gear driven. (This thing uses so many chains, I thought it was going to be chain) Anyways, I was even more surprised to find that the gears I could see were shiny and had clean oil residue on them. They probably sat for twenty years before the last time I cranked it. I was expecting some rust. Maybe I was looking at the gears that were under oil for twenty years. In any case, I believe there’s oil in there. I’m kind of afraid to start it and have it turn something that is dry. Poured some deisel down the injection pump and got the locked up throttle freed.
I took the two hoses from the small hydro pump and held them up. I poured hydro fluid down them and linked them together. I’m not saying I filled the pump, but there should be some lube in there. So that covers everything till the two big pumps. I guess I will pull a line and pour some hydro fluid in them. After that, I will rig up some kind of fuel jug and start cranking.
I plan to jump it to my golf cart. It has 48 volts from (8) 6 volt batteries. I was thinking I will jump to 5 of them giving me 30 volts to the starter. That should get her spinning pretty good. Remember this is a 24 volt system and there will be nothing else hooked to the batteries except the starter. My only real fear is the injection pump may need rebuilt. If and when it starts, I would only run it for 30 seconds to get the cobwebs out.
On another note, the main pumps seem to be more complicated than the wheel motors. I will get some good pics and questions for my next post.
I would definitely do that rather than risking frying the big pumps, should be a few bolts each and they will come off.
The brochure listed 350PSI for the charge pumps, I would assume they wouldn't call it out unless it was a separate pump:
This one was especially useful, it has operating pressures for the drive, suspension and braking systems:
Wouldn't it be the case drains that go into the header across the bottom of the drawing which then goes out to the cooler?
Yep the bottom header is the case drain, odd there is no filter there. There might be a filter in the reservoir though.
There are eight outlets or inlets to the reservoir. Two of them have big filters inside the tank. Looks like a PITA to change them. I only saw them from the filler cap.