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Vulcan 8 x 8

There should be a governor in the injection pump, easy to test by going full throttle.

That won't prevent you from over speeding the engine by back driving with the hydros.
If you are balls out in high and shift to low you might be able to over speed the engine by turning the motors into pumps.
 
?:eek:
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?:eek:
That's an LTV Kid KID - Mudd-Ox Inc

I had a copy of the November 2005 issue of Classic Military Vehicle magazine for another project I was working on, and when I went to scan it the other day I discovered that it has pictures of this Excalibur at Parramore Surplus back in 2005. A reader of the magazine ran across it and sent in these pictures. It's interesting it still had 4 of the original wheels then. The wheels put on it later are off of something else.
IMG_20241020_0001 (2)1.jpg
 
That's an LTV Kid KID - Mudd-Ox Inc

I had a copy of the November 2005 issue of Classic Military Vehicle magazine for another project I was working on, and when I went to scan it the other day I discovered that it has pictures of this Excalibur at Parramore Surplus back in 2005. A reader of the magazine ran across it and sent in these pictures. It's interesting it still had 4 of the original wheels then. The wheels put on it later are off of something else.
IMG_20241020_0001 (2)1.jpg

Very interesting, it was missing one wheel when I got it. Got anymore pics? It looks so much better in that pic. I’m not sure when I bought it. Must have been about 10-12 years later.
 
Not many pictures, sadly. There's this one from 2010 or earlier.
Excalibur ser.3, Parramore Surplus, Mount Pleasant, Florida, 2010 or Before.jpg

It was caught on google street view in 2011 and in 2016.
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And there's this picture which was posted by the Army Air Defense Artillery Training Support Facility (it's like a museum but only open to Army personnel, that's at Fort Sill, Oklahoma) in 2016, and they were trying to find out where it was because they wanted it.
Excalibur ser.3, Parramore Surplus, Mount Pleasant, Florida, 2016 or Before.jpg
 
Thanks, I guess I know where to get rid of it when I’m done. Although, they may not want it now since I worked on it.
Sell that pos to them for the same money it costs to buy this :smokin:. Build yourself a real military grade vehicle.

I’m sure there are enough guys here that would relay driving this bitch down to you.
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Sell that pos to them for the same money it costs to buy this :smokin:. Build yourself a real military grade vehicle.

I’m sure there are enough guys here that would relay driving this bitch down to you.
IMG_0531.png

That is an hour from me. Build the ultimate crawler hauler out that thing.
 
So I got a cute little relief valve.

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I installed it on the pump output and adjusted it to 1000 psi.

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This allows a 1000 psi to my wheel jacks. Before I was just using pilot pressure which is only like 400 lbs. That is not really enough to lift one tire. Now I can lift one tire without rolling out the floor Jack. I wanted to adjust it slightly less because I’m still running low rated valves on my jacks. They are only rated at about 500 psi. I’m not sure how much safety factor is engineeried in to them. I had a lot more pressure going to them when I had my tractor feeding it, but it’s still scary. I won’t be pulling the lever and holding it. Those valves will be replaced in the future. I would have liked to dial this relief down more, but it only goes down to 1000 psi.

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This has a slow leak. If I don’t fill it every so often, it goes flat and pops off the bead. Now it will be a lot easier to deal with.

I found out that I really don’t have “pilot pressure”. The pump out put was just enough to make approximately 350-400 lbs. if I had it reved up. The pressure was basically created because I necked the line down to 1/4”. I have ordered another relief valve that can be dialed down to as low as 100 psi. I’m going to install it to give me proper pilot pressure. I’m hoping this will give me better control of the motors.
 
So I got another cute relief valve that can dial down to 100 psi.


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I used it to get a good constant pilot pressure. Had a lot of trouble I won’t go into, but I got it working. Took the machine for a drive and it didn’t go very good. I am not sure what is wrong, but I’m thinking the main drive reliefs are not set high enough.

There are several reliefs on the main pumps. After studying it for a bit I’m assuming I have the correct ones that are next to the big drive hoses. Here is a pic.

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Question for anybody that knows, how would you expect it to work. What I mean is you see a big hex which is the body of the relief. Then there’s a level with two flats. Above that is a nut. Finally, there’s an Allen drive screw or bolt in the middle. So if I want more pressure, how would you expect that to work? Would I ever turn the two flats part or is that just for disassembling it? If that’s the case, I would back off the lock nut and turn in the Allen screw?

Now for something funny. One of the reliefs had the lock nut backed off about an 1/8”. I thought I would see how easy it turned on the screw. When I turned it with a small wrench, it didn’t turn on the screw at all. The entire relief body turned. I was like WTF. I reached down there and the whole body turned with my fingers. It was loose as shit. I’m lucky it didn’t shoot out of there. Then I went and checked the other one. It was loose also. Not as bad as the first, but still loose.

I tightened them both down and took it for a ride. I was hoping it would make a big difference, but not so. Since the lock nut on one was still backed off, I tried to turn it now that the body couldn’t turn. The lock nut seems to be frozen in rust on the screw. And the screw seems to be really tight also. Like it might twist off tight. That’s why I’m asking about the “two flats” part. I’m wondering if that can be some kind of lock nut also.
 
Typically you loosen the jam nut and turn the set screw in to increase relief pressure.
 
Did some more playing with this and I did have a small victory. I have been setting the engine speed and pushing the button. This causes it to sort of jump, but it doesn’t go very fast. Today, I set the engine at idle and pushed the button. It just sits there because there’s not enough pressure. Now I advanced the throttle and it starts moving. It’s nice because it doesn’t jump. Also, when I reduce throttle, it slows down nicely instead of slamming to a stop.

I backed it up and forward a couple times testing this. Then I switched it into high range and tested there. (Same opperation) Well when I was running it, I just went full throttle for the fun of it. I guess I have never done this before because it actually went about 15 mph. Maybe faster. I know that doesn’t sound like much, but every other time I have driven it, I could probably walk faster. I certainly would not want to let off that button at that speed and have it lock up the wheels. I think I will hook the button up to a throttle pedal. That way I can push the pedal, connecting the button contacts and then and speed up the engine. If I want to slow down, I can just let off a bit. If I need to stop, take my foot off and it locks up the wheels. I guess I could make a separate pedal that opens the button contacts,

I’ve been playing with the reliefs, but not much luck yet. Take a look at this.

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I know the picture is busy, but there are three reliefs visible. I made a drawing to show them.

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The big hoses are the main drive hoses to the motor. You notice one relief is right next to the top big hose. The other hoses are case drains and circulation hoses. Would I be right to assume the relief next to the big hose is the main relief? Would a closed system need a relief for each direction? If that’s the case, I would think the two other reliefs might be covering that. Those two are behind the small hose, even though I drew them next to it.

I still think the relief for the main drive is set to light. I tried to do a sharp turn and the wheels just stalled even though the motor was not bogging down.
 
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