Vulcan 8 x 8

[WaterH]

So what did his have?
Just a different motor or a wholely different everything?

If these things were truely experimental its almost to be expected to find some different components.

The later versions had one hydro motor that drove both sides. But at each side there are planetary gears and another hydro motor that can just drive the outer ring gear. Depending on how that motor was running, it could slow down or speed up one side for steering Or even go backwards to spin in place. I kind of understand, but I would need it in front of me to really get it.

He also told me they had on board compressor for the central tire inflation. My hubs look like there’s provisions for that, but I see no evidence of a compressor. The later versions also had the motor mounted front to back. (Conventionally)

 

[arse_sidewards]

The later versions had one hydro motor that drove both sides. But at each side there are planetary gears and another hydro motor that can just drive the outer ring gear. Depending on how that motor was running, it could slow down or speed up one side for steering Or even go backwards to spin in place. I kind of understand, but I would need it in front of me to really get it.

It's basically the bastard child of an automatic transmission planetary gear-set and a Prius CVT

Not worth thinking about since you don't have it.

 

[aczlan]

It's basically the bastard child of an automatic transmission planetary gear-set and a Prius CVT

Not worth thinking about since you don't have it.

That setup (or something similar) is/was commonly used on some of the larger CVT tractors with one side of the gear set being mechanically driven and the other side hydrostatically driven.
Some details on how they work: Understanding CVT and powershift transmissions when buying a tractor - Farmers Weekly

Aaron Z

 

[WaterH]

It's next week some time. Get it fixed yet?

Yesterday was an all day affair to get little done. I had a hell of a time getting the cap off the injection pump. It has two flats on it to turn off with a wench, but it is sunk in all the injection lines under the intake manifold. It would have been soooo much easier if it was hex for a socket. I had to put an end wench on it and then twist that wench with another. It was tight as hell.

The fuel screen was a little dirty.

I was never going through that again, so the cap got a grind job.

I found out they have a special tool for the “two flats” design. One of the few crows feet I have happens to be the right size pictured. But it wouldnt work because it is a hex. I went to HF and bought a whole set of the two flats crows feet, but even that was too big to fit in there. I guess it was too hard to make it like this in the first place. You can see what the screen looks like clean here.

I definitely could not have put this back together without the socket modification. It was hard enough with it that I almost gave up and was going to remove the manifold.

i finelly got it together and late afternoon I had this.

Now it starts easy and I have no leaks.

 

[WaterH]

One of the engineers sent me some cool pics.

I wonder how mine got damaged on the bottom.

I notice there’s a six wheeler in there. I was thinking I could cut off the rear of the truck and make it a six wheeler. Then I would have some spare parts. If I ever break something that is not available.

 

[arse_sidewards]

One of the engineers sent me some cool pics.

I wonder how mine got damaged on the bottom.

I notice there’s a six wheeler in there. I was thinking I could cut off the rear of the truck and make it a six wheeler. Then I would have some spare parts. If I ever break something that is not available.

Leave it stock.

You see that picture of the thing getting air. If they haven't broken it yet you're not gonna break it.

 

[WaterH]

Leave it stock.

You see that picture of the thing getting air. If they haven't broken it yet you're not gonna break it.

Yea, I think that is mine. And that’s why mine is smashed on the bottom. Can you imagine the landing? I think the driver must have a headache. (Not much room to the roof)

I wouldn’t consider shortening it unless I needed the parts. But I can see it would be easy to do. There is nothing important back there.

Question for you 6.2L guys. Does that motor have to have glow plugs to start? Every time I have started it when cold, I put 30 volts to it and give it a couple squirts of gas out of a glass cleaner bottle. Once it’s warm, it starts easy at 24 volts. The motor has glow plugs and I have the harness somewhere. Do you think I’m going need em? Do glow plugs just hook to the hot side of the battery or is there some kind of electronic box in between?

My tractor and my HEMTT both start without any warm up device.

 

[aczlan]

Glow plugs from that era usually just have a heavy relay.
Sometimes there is more to the OEM relay (like a temp sensor to only run if it's below X degrees, or if the engine is cold).

Aaron Z

 

[WaterH]

So I bought some valves.

The plan is to put a pair on every swing arm cylinder. Than I can drop the thing all the way down, close the valves on what every arms I want and then lift the rest. It will give me complete control, just not on the fly. I really can’t think of many scenarios where I need to do this from the cockpit. It will allow me to simplify the plumbing

 

[CarterKraft]

Good plan, brass valve for hydraulic suspension system makes me nervous.
We can worry about that later...

 

[aczlan]

Good plan, brass valve for hydraulic suspension system makes me nervous.
We can worry about that later...

My first question was going to be what the pressure rating on those valves is, because if it is at pump relief valve pressure lifting the truck and then driving it around I could see spiking above that and blowing a valve apart.
Looking those appear to be a Webstone 41699 valve: https://www.nibco.com/nibco-products/valves/ball-valves/h-x168/ if so, it's only rated for 600 PSI.
Might be ok for rolling it around the yard, but when you get it going, I would replace every single one of them with something like this: 1/4" NPT Carbon Steel 7250 PSI Ball Valve Dynamic DE2-14-NPT | Ball Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Aaron Z

 

[WaterH]

My first question was going to be what the pressure rating on those valves is, because if it is at pump relief valve pressure lifting the truck and then driving it around I could see spiking above that and blowing a valve apart.
Looking those appear to be a Webstone 41699 valve: https://www.nibco.com/nibco-products/valves/ball-valves/h-x168/ if so, it's only rated for 600 PSI.
Might be ok for rolling it around the yard, but when you get it going, I would replace every single one of them with something like this: 1/4" NPT Carbon Steel 7250 PSI Ball Valve Dynamic DE2-14-NPT | Ball Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Aaron Z

I didn’t look in to psi at all. I wonder what psi this would see driving? Not sure if this system really sees much. The cylinder jacks the truck up by stretching the springs. When you hit a bump, it stretches the spring some more. So it doesn’t really have a direct hit to the cylinder.

When they fail, do you suppose it explodes?

 

[total newb]

With the very few of these that have ever existed odds are pretty good yours is in those pics!.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

I've not had one burst, but leak and bypass. I had them for front dig on a hydraulic drive buggy before swapping out to solenoid valves. Yours look to be what 1/4"?

 

[AKnate]

6.2L starting without glowplugs will need a strong battery and good starter.
Or like most older diesels, a snort or two of Bill Cosby cologne.

 

[aczlan]

I didn’t look in to psi at all. I wonder what psi this would see driving? Not sure if this system really sees much. The cylinder jacks the truck up by stretching the springs. When you hit a bump, it stretches the spring some more. So it doesn’t really have a direct hit to the cylinder.

When they fail, do you suppose it explodes?

My bet would be that it splits where the two halves of the valve are screwed together.
If you're lucky, it splits all the way around at once. If not it only splits in one place and sends out a jet of high pressure hydraulic fluid...
If that ever happens and it gets injected into you, get yourself to the hospital as fast as you can and let them know that you have hydraulic fluid injection injury.
If you ignore it, your body will try to pump it around like it's blood and the results are really bad.

Aaron Z

 

[CarterKraft]

When I blew up my brass gate valve that "one time" it split the side, high pressure stream that blew my hat and glasses off.
Luckily the stream missed my face.

 

[WaterH]

These will all be between the wheel and frame when I operate the up/down. I’m thinking of using “charge pressure” which I understand is around 350 psi. But maybe that won’t be enough to lift the truck.

 

[CarterKraft]

These will all be between the wheel and frame when I operate the up/down. I’m thinking of using “charge pressure” which I understand is around 350 psi. But maybe that won’t be enough to lift the truck.

Depending on the size of the cylinder bore 350 might be enough multiplied x all the wheels to lift it straight up then lock off.
My warning was to keep this pressure warning in mind.

 

[WaterH]

So I got the valves all in place and hooked the tractor up.

I had bought a 400 lb. gauge and I installed it inline so I could see how much pressure it took to lift the side.

First I dropped the side and lifted it again to see the pressure. It used about 350 lbs. to lift it with all fours tires. One tire was flat and I don’t know if it was helping. I dropped it down again and locked out the flat tire (very back) and the second tire. The plan was to lift the side with just the two remaining tires. I wanted to swap the the two tires that would lift off the ground. (Fixing the flat also) I knew that it might take more pressure to lift it with only two cylinders. I applied the pressure slowly. The two tires were lifted off the ground right around 400 lbs., but at some point when I was checking the rear, my gauge blew up.

If you look close, you can see that it is pegged above 400 and the needle is no longer centered in the gauge. (When I backed off the pressure the gauge was still stuck there) Anyways, I put the good tire on the rear and then opened the valve on that cylinder to let that tire down. It came down force ing the front of the truck down to a wicked slant. Lol.

I fixed the other tire (maybe) and bolted back on. Then I moved the tractor to this side and repeated the valve installation. I don’t have a picture, but I removed a bunch hoses in this process. (Their all stacked on the roof) I had planed to use that gauge to check my pumps. I guess that will have to wait till I get a new gauge. I think I’m going to order a much higher pressure gauge so there’s no chance of pegging it.

I also bought a double cylinder valve. I’m planing to hook it to the wheel lifts and the charge pump. Maybe I can start the motor and work the lifts without the tractor. I would like to set up a tow bar and then just jack the center four wheels up so I could flat tow it.

 

[aczlan]

Told ya so

For anything run by your tractor, a 3500-5000PSI gauge should be good.
I have one on our Kubota that is teed into the pressure input on the loader valve.
Makes it easy to see what the hydraulics are doing that way.

IIRC the pressure for the drive circuit was higher (10k PSI?) make sure you use a high enough rated gauge for that one.


Aaron Z

 

[gozuki]

Luckily the stream missed my face.

That's what she said?

 

[aczlan]

That's what she said?

If your stream comes out with that much pressure, you MIGHT want to see a doctor (or start selling videos)...

Aaron Z

 

[CarterKraft]

You won't need 10k gauge, the drive circuit might get to 6k.
This is what I would buy.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Manometer-Excavator-Couplings-Connector/dp/B0BTXYPLLR/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3UH85MIBMM9EG&keywords=digital+hydraulic+pressure+gauge&qid=1685710082&sprefix=digital+hydraulic+pressure+gauge%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

 

[WaterH]

So I dug through my box of wires and found the glow plug connectors.

Tested the main lead to the glow plug socket and I have continuity. I’m wondering if I have to put 24-28 volts to make one of these plugs glow. Sure would be nice if 12 volts would do it.

 

[CarterKraft]

So I dug through my box of wires and found the glow plug connectors.

Tested the main lead to the glow plug socket and I have continuity. I’m wondering if I have to put 24-28 volts to make one of these plugs glow. Sure would be nice if 12 volts would do it.

You should be able to just buy 12v glow plugs for a 6.2

But... I will reiterate I am not sure why you want to change to 12v if you already have the 24v parts.

 

[WaterH]

Small update.
Not much work done on this lately. I got a new pressure gauge and installed it in the pilot circuit.

If you look close on the right, you can see a valve that bleeds the pressure off to the tank. I know it moves oil, but I dont know if the pilot pump makes pressure and how much. I believe it is suppose to make about 350 lbs. My plan is to slowly close the valve while watching the gage. If it starts going past 400, I’m scared the brass valve will not take it, so I’ll have to open it again and get a different valve.

Of course, to test this, I need to start it again. went to get my golf cart to jump it and the cart won’t move. Why is it when I want to do something, I always have to fix something else?

 

[subybaja]

Why is it when I want to do something, I always have to fix something else?

Universal constant, AFAIK.

 

[budget76]

Of course, to test this, I need to start it again. went to get my golf cart to jump it and the cart won’t move. Why is it when I want to do something, I always have to fix something else?

fucking always

spent 30 minutes fixing the string trimmer just to trim for 30 minutes. it never ends


plan sounds to make sense to make sure those valves will hold

 

[2big bronco]

You driving this thing around yet?