I prefer to not have the selinoid and I might change them later. Right now I’m just seeing if this is worth putting some money into. I don’t really consider a selinoid to be “electronic”. When I say electronic, I mean diodes, resisters, capacitors and computers.Because you have electric solenoids on your hydrastat servo control.
I looked up some manual pump controllers (actual Morse cable) but they are wildly expensive from CAT, like $2200 each just got the controller.
It very well could be. I tried to find them, but not easy to find in their on line stuff. If I find I need them, I might convert to a more standard automotive brake.The park brake is probably some flavor of Mico caliper which will use common heavy equipment brake pads.
Caliper Disc Brakes | ZF MICO
www.mico.com
I wouldn't consider a solenoid electronic either but the components required to give you proportional control to power them will be.I prefer to not have the selinoid and I might change them later. Right now I’m just seeing if this is worth putting some money into. I don’t really consider a selinoid to be “electronic”. When I say electronic, I mean diodes, resisters, capacitors and computers.
I would love a manual controller, but that kind of price is not going to happen. Possibly, I can make it somehow.
That is interesting. Like I said, I’m electronic dumb. Are you saying that thing can control the selinoid? I don’t understand how it would do that. Would the selinoid go in and out over and over? Is it designed for that? If it moved that fast, would it move the swash as desired.I wouldn't consider a solenoid electronic either but the components required to give you proportional control to power them will be.
I am sure a real nerd can design a non solid state drive system but that's not me.
The reason I suggested the $10 PWM driver is you could fairly easily use them to give you a working variable speed drive system for testing.
That shit is annoying after having alot of ass time in normal sized excavators.So got back on it today. First tried to lift motor on. Nope. Put it on a floor Jack and up into place. Still couldn’t get it to slide into the splines. I found a long bolt that matched the threads. Only one, but it should help line it up. I got to this point a realized I didn’t have any gasket.
The splines still weren’t lined up yet or I would have just run it. Since it wasn’t in yet, I pulled it apart and made a gasket. So here it is with gasket. I also overhauled the whole motor. (Wire brushed and painted)
I got all the fittings I ordered. I have a saying “if it ain’t for wrong fittings, I wouldn’t order fittings at all”. So I don’t have the ones I really need, but I dug though my boxes and got enough for a test run on the right side wheels. Since I didn’t want it to move, I wanted Jack stands to hold the wheels off the ground. I hoisted the rear up with the excavator and put a stand under. On the front, the excavator didn’t have enough balls.
I finished with the floor Jack. My plan was to lift the wheels with the hydro cylinders. For some reason they wouldn’t work now. I was running out of light, so it will have to wait till tomorrow. I’m ready to see those wheels turn.
Have that JIC kit and I think an ORB kit.They cost more than a cheapo steel kit
Pulse Width Modulation varies the ON/OFF time of of the signal which varies the current to the solenoid coil and provides "infinite" position of the armature inside the solenoid cartridge which will vary the pilot pressure supplied to the servo control and ultimately the swash plate angle.That is interesting. Like I said, I’m electronic dumb. Are you saying that thing can control the selinoid? I don’t understand how it would do that. Would the selinoid go in and out over and over? Is it designed for that? If it moved that fast, would it move the swash as desired.
Pulse Width Modulation varies the ON/OFF time of of the signal which varies the current to the solenoid coil and provides "infinite" position of the armature inside the solenoid cartridge which will vary the pilot pressure supplied to the servo control and ultimately the swash plate angle.
Long video explanation
You can tap off one battery for 12 volt stuff. For high draw stuff though, like a winch, I'd take advantage of a 24v one.Ok, I have to make a decision about the voltage. I just got word from the alternator shop. Specifically, do I want to keep this 24 volt or convert to 12 volt.
Factors to consider staying 24 volt,
Cost to fix my alternator $450 or buy a new lesser quality 24 Volt one for $275. Of course I need two batteries. Anything I want to install on it will need to be 24 volt. Lights, stereo, winch……Maybe there is a 12 volt transformer to knock the voltage down, but I doubt you can run something big like a winch. I guess I could just wire stuff off of one battery. ( I don’t think that’s good for the batteries.) I also think LED lights can run on almost any voltage. (I need to check on this)
Going 12 volt
Requires new alternator and starter. Possibly require new solenoids on the hydro pump. I say possibly because they may fire on 12 volt and/or I might remove and make them manual. Those solenoids cost around $250 apiece and there are 4 of them.
I think it would be nice to have it 12 volt, but probably more money up front.
Hypothetical question-
We all know a 12 volt battery is at rest should be about 12.5 volts. If it goes down around 11 volts, it will probably not start a motor. Would that mean a 24 volt system that goes down to 22 will not start something? What if you jump one battery in a 2 battery series to a running (12 volt) vehicle? If the running vehicle is pushing 14 volts and the other dead battery is 11 volts, that would mean you have 25 volts, right? Or does it not work like that?
Your valve was designed for it. Why do you think it's not?I watched the video and it makes sense, but that valve is designed for it. I’m not sure you can just hook that thing to just any selinoid. Interesting, never the less. I doubt I would go that route, but everything is up for discussion at this point.
This thing never had joysticks. It was a steering wheel that was “fly by wire”. This was the first of its kind. Supposedly, it could be driven at 60 mph with no more difficulty than driving a car. I know a tank can do that, but it doesn’t have to worry about hitting trees, buildings and other shit.Your valve was designed for it. Why do you think it's not?
Do you have the original joystick/controls?
You realize what you have is what's in every hydrastat bull dozer we sell today?
I thought about this some earlier but I was driving... I think it's possible to convert the controller you have to pilot oil operation. That's actually all the solenoids do. So if you modified the stem of the cartridge to accept a hose connection or just simply added 1/8 npt ports in the right placed you could control the pumps with either hydraulic foot pedals or joysticks.
So have you ever jumped 24 V stuff with only one 12 V jump pack? What I’m thinking is if I need a jump, but there is only a 12 V vehicle around. I guess I could jump one battery for five minutes and then switch the cables over to the other battery and try to start it.You can tap off one battery for 12 volt stuff. For high draw stuff though, like a winch, I'd take advantage of a 24v one.
I've jump started 24v heavy equipment with 2 12v jump packs. Ir charged shit like 24v or 36v man lifts, floor scrubbers with 12v chargers.
24v system usually charges at around 28v.
Yes. Done that with a charger too.So have you ever jumped 24 V stuff with only one 12 V jump pack? What I’m thinking is if I need a jump, but there is only a 12 V vehicle around. I guess I could jump one battery for five minutes and then switch the cables over to the other battery and try to start it.
I'm going to tell you again you are wrong, I hope you listen.This thing never had joysticks. It was a steering wheel that was “fly by wire”. This was the first of its kind. Supposedly, it could be driven at 60 mph with no more difficulty than driving a car. I know a tank can do that, but it doesn’t have to worry about hitting trees, buildings and other shit.
I looked through catalogs till I’m blue in the face. I havnt found a set of selinoids that have the “ball lever” like this one.
I don’t know if the pumps were ever “controlled” except for on and off and reverse. I think they did all the speed control at the motor. That’s where I’m planing to do it if I could ever order the right fittings. I’ve got my third set and they don’t fit. I measured the threads and it appears they are metric banjo bolts that I need to convert to jic fittings.
Do it VERY often... Heavy equipment is 24v...So have you ever jumped 24 V stuff with only one 12 V jump pack? What I’m thinking is if I need a jump, but there is only a 12 V vehicle around. I guess I could jump one battery for five minutes and then switch the cables over to the other battery and try to start it.
I'm going to tell you again you are wrong, I hope you listen.
The solenoids modulate that's what they do.
Solenoids won't have ball controls, the pump controller will.
You're asking and I'm telling...
Does the solenoid move oil or the lever?When I say ball lever, I’m referring to this. Do you see the knob sticking out of the block on the left? That is what moves when the selinoid fires.
Edit, in any case, I’m not saying you’re wrong because I don’t know. But as I said before, I would rather not go electronic. If it’s the only possibility, I guess I will.
If you humour my shade tree idea it might save you a bunch of money.
If you "remove" the solenoid cartridges from the equation and physically port the existing channel from the solenoid modulation to allow a hose to connect to it you could utilize very cheap/common excavator foot pedals to drive the pumps, as you desire.
No electronics needed.
Its going to take some research of the parts you have on hand and might involve some hackfuckery but I think it's 100% possible and will give you excellent results.
It moves that lever. Only about 1/4” travel total. Couldn’t really see what the lever does inside the pump.Does the solenoid move oil or the lever?
Foot Pilot Valve Hydraulic Foot Pedal Joystick Control Valve Foot CNC Excavator | eBay
Before you open a case.www.ebay.com
The lever moved the servo spool, which moves the swash plate.It moves that lever. Only about 1/4” travel total. Couldn’t really see what the lever does inside the pump.
I get the general idea, but I need to see the whole thing disassembled to really understand.The lever moved the servo spool, which moves the swash plate.
The ball lever is a feedback to provide servo position to the controller.
The controller applies oil via these ports to the servo spool.
It will lose servo pressure and braje pressure simultaneously, shifting to "park" and setting the brake. The drive pressure will go over the cross over relief valves in the motor? and slow very quickly to a stop.Question for anyone. When I turn the wheels on Jack stands by turning the pump on, they stop almost immediately when I turn the pump off. If this is on the ground doing a few mph and I turn the pump off, will it act like brakes or just coast down? If I let the parking brake go at speed, will it be distroyed?