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Even more reason to throw that new head on and hope for the best. Gotta do a full tear down to get to the mains. Fawking Shibaura

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Bottom ends on the 05 series I have most experience with are very strong. 100+hp 5k+ rpm no problem.
 
JR4X said:
I haven’t rebuilt one of those 3 cylinders. I’ve rebuilt engines before. I’ve repaired tractor engines before. 2500 max rpm is a low rpm engine
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I have. And a lot of others.
Whether the engine runs at 2600 or 5000 isn’t really relevant. The rotating assembly of each is designed to do what it it does. How fast it spins makes no difference to whether it can keep spinning if the parts are shot.

JR4X said:
But it’s not like he’s gotta drive this thing across the country, or make a living with it. It’s a hobby tractor.
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Again, irrelevant.
Assuming he uses it at all, the engine is going to work at its maximum. These little diesels are torqy little engines for their size, but don’t make much horsepower. Cutting grass with it will load it really hard. It’s not like he is building a parade tractor. This isn’t even a tractor. It’s a mower.
 
arse_sidewards said:
What specifically is preventing him from sticking a tool in each oil hole and spinning new ones in?
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Encased mains. They clamp around the crank, then you slide the whole crank into the block, then bolt the main bearing retainers to the block via bolts on the outside.

Edit: just replying as I read. Guess my reply was redundant.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Bottom ends on the 05 series I have most experience with are very strong. 100+hp 5k+ rpm no problem.
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Bottom ends on this series is strong too. But if the mains are shot from heat and contamination, it’s irrelevant. Fix it and not ruin the crank.
 
JR4X said:
Even more reason to throw that new head on and hope for the best. Gotta do a full tear down to get to the mains. Fawking Shibaura

IMG_5800.jpeg
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Just because someone builds an engine differently doesn’t make it bad. Kubota builds some of the best, most durable engines on the market.

The GM Northstar V8 has a split block. Changing main bearings on those pretty much requires complete disassembly.
 
the 05 I've got apart right now has normal main caps
the 03 I had apart a couple years ago had the style of mains pictured
 
[486] said:
the 05 I've got apart right now has normal main caps
the 03 I had apart a couple years ago had the style of mains pictured
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D905,D1005,D1105,D1305 should have all the round captured mains. Which 05 do you have apart?
 
it's a three cylinder stamped 1.318 liter on the injection pump casting but that turns up nothing

wikipedia used to have the best list of bore/stroke figures to look at comparing shit, but that's gone now
it was out of a toro reelmaster 5200D, so it should be a D1105

Dunno man.

ETA: 78mm bore
 
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IH Man said:
Just because someone builds an engine differently doesn’t make it bad. Kubota builds some of the best, most durable engines on the market.

The GM Northstar V8 has a split block. Changing main bearings on those pretty much requires complete disassembly.
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I didn’t say it’s bad. It’s inconvenient to an inframe.

Xicor, I’ve never wanted to see someone get lucky and fix one for cheap more than right now.
 
JR4X said:
I didn’t say it’s bad. It’s inconvenient to an inframe.

Xicor, I’ve never wanted to see someone get lucky and fix one for cheap more than right now.
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:lmao:

Stay tuned for more dumb questions I have once this head shows up in my quest to get lucky
 
JR4X said:
It’s inconvenient to an inframe.
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Impossible to inframe.

JR4X said:
I’ve never wanted to see someone get lucky and fix one for cheap more than right now.
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I didn't say he can't go the cheap route. I said I didn't advise it. Even if he doesn't tear it down and it runs, it doesn't mean anything. I've seen engines run with a piston hanging out the side of the block still attached. I'm sure it will run. Might even run for a while. But eventually, and that may be in 2 hours, 10 hours, or even 100 hours, it could fail. That's why I suggest checking the rod bearings. If they look fine, then you know. But who wants to buy a head and do all this work, only to fire it up, go mow for an hour and it spin a bearing? That's not smart repair. Checking them at least, is smart.
 
[486] said:
it's a three cylinder stamped 1.318 liter on the injection pump casting but that turns up nothing

wikipedia used to have the best list of bore/stroke figures to look at comparing shit, but that's gone now
it was out of a toro reelmaster 5200D, so it should be a D1105

Dunno man.

ETA: 78mm bore
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Toro Reelmaster used a Yanmar, not a Kubota. That's why yours doesn't match. It isn't a Kubota engine. :shaking:

EDIT: Looks like some years they did use a Kubota. But I still bet you have a Yanmar.
 
IH Man said:
Ever had a Yanmar and a Kubota apart to know what the insides look like?
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Do YOU have to take them apart to tell the difference? Do you think everyone is dumber than you and doesn't know the difference between a kubota and yanmar?
 
bgaidan said:
Do YOU have to take them apart to tell the difference? Do you think everyone is dumber than you and doesn't know the difference between a kubota and yanmar?
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On the surface, without any tags, and Yanmar and a Kubota look nearly identical. Only minor differences. Even I would have to really look if no engine tag.
 
IH Man said:
Impossible to inframe.


I didn't say he can't go the cheap route. I said I didn't advise it. Even if he doesn't tear it down and it runs, it doesn't mean anything. I've seen engines run with a piston hanging out the side of the block still attached. I'm sure it will run. Might even run for a while. But eventually, and that may be in 2 hours, 10 hours, or even 100 hours, it could fail. That's why I suggest checking the rod bearings. If they look fine, then you know. But who wants to buy a head and do all this work, only to fire it up, go mow for an hour and it spin a bearing? That's not smart repair. Checking them at least, is smart.
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Again it’s not his daily driver. He’s not getting stranded on the interstate miles from home if it breaks down while mowing the grass. Consequences are real low here, it’s only a few hundred bucks. I guess I didn’t ask if a few hundo was his life’s savings and if the sun coming up tomorrow was dependent on this thing not having an issue after the head install. It’s just a pos marketplace lawnmower he bought cheap because it was a project.
 
JR4X said:
Again it’s not his daily driver. He’s not getting stranded on the interstate miles from home if it breaks down while mowing the grass. Consequences are real low here, it’s only a few hundred bucks. I guess I didn’t ask if a few hundo was his life’s savings and if the sun coming up tomorrow was dependent on this thing not having an issue after the head install. It’s just a pos marketplace lawnmower he bought cheap because it was a project.
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I don't like throwing good money after bad. I guess some people have more to waste. I like to fix things once and be done.
 
IH Man said:
On the surface, without any tags, and Yanmar and a Kubota look nearly identical. Only minor differences. Even I would have to really look if no engine tag.
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IH Man said:
Ignorant. Not dumb.
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Ahh. So nobody in this thread could possibly have more knowledge on the subject than you?

I mean, you started off saying the reel master didn't come with a kubota until you had to google it and come in with the ninja edit. If you didn't know that, what else don't you know?
 
bgaidan said:
Ahh. So nobody in this thread could possibly have more knowledge on the subject than you?

I mean, you started off saying the reel master didn't come with a kubota until you had to google it and come in with the ninja edit. If you didn't know that, what else don't you know?
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Listen up ass wipe. I didn't say no one else knows. I am giving info. Yes, Toro used both, and the fact that the D1105 used captured mains, and he says his doesn't have them, leads me to think he has the Yanmar. If you get your head out of your ass and read:
Dethmachinefab said:
D905,D1005,D1105,D1305 should have all the round captured mains. Which 05 do you have apart?
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This guy pointed out the same information.


So :flipoff2::flipoff2:
Shut the fuck up if you don't have anything to add to the conversation.
 
IH Man said:
Listen up ass wipe. I didn't say no one else knows. I am giving info. Yes, Toro used both, and the fact that the D1105 used captured mains, and he says his doesn't have them, leads me to think he has the Yanmar. If you get your head out of your ass and read:

This guy pointed out the same information.


So :flipoff2::flipoff2:
Shut the fuck up if you don't have anything to add to the conversation.
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No.
 
IH Man said:
Toro Reelmaster used a Yanmar, not a Kubota. That's why yours doesn't match. It isn't a Kubota engine. :shaking:

EDIT: Looks like some years they did use a Kubota. But I still bet you have a Yanmar.
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huh, maybe
I never really considered it
looks like it is a mitsubishi

good thing I didn't buy DRT's top end for it, rofl
 
who are my John Deere Gurus?

I have a little ford 1500 4x4 compact tractor that I would like a FEL on. I can’t find a 770B FEL for acceptable dollars. Today a John Deere 70A popped up for acceptable dollars. It doesn’t look like it’s a direct fit but fabbing up some crossover pieces would be no problem.

I want to put this
IMG_5808.jpeg


Onto this.

IMG_5809.jpeg

IMG_5810.jpeg



am I correct that the 70A is for the John Deere size of tractor that would be roughly equivalent 20 hp sized?
 
Anyone have an idea on where to look for the values on testing the alternator regulator on a 2001 Massey 251xe?
Parts department wants me to buy a new alternator,but I found out it's a Bosch,and a regulator only costs $25 instead of $135 for a reman.
 
JR4X said:
who are my John Deere Gurus?

I have a little ford 1500 4x4 compact tractor that I would like a FEL on. I can’t find a 770B FEL for acceptable dollars. Today a John Deere 70A popped up for acceptable dollars. It doesn’t look like it’s a direct fit but fabbing up some crossover pieces would be no problem.

I want to put this
IMG_5808.jpeg


Onto this.

IMG_5809.jpeg

IMG_5810.jpeg



am I correct that the 70A is for the John Deere size of tractor that would be roughly equivalent 20 hp sized?
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Looks close enough. The john deere loaders are generally a little wider then others where they swallow the frame so it should work.

If the width of the bucket is close to the outside width at your rear tires you should be golden.

Does it have the controls? Does yours have a hydrolic pump?
 
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