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The TRACTOR thread

[486] said:
I've had solenoid contacts weld multiple times doing this
gets "exciting"
I think the 24v solenoids usually have silver contacts in them

now when I'm doing that, I'll clunk the solenoid and hold it with one wire, then stick the starter wire onto a junky sacrificial terminal
the terminals on the battery don't last long otherwise lol
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I use jumper cables and always be ready to pull the clamps off. The only solenoids I’ve had stick are Cummins 24V starters. I used to have a work truck with 24V jump start station built into it. Made it way easy.
 
JR4X said:
I use jumper cables and always be ready to pull the clamps off. The only solenoids I’ve had stick are Cummins 24V starters. I used to have a work truck with 24V jump start station built into it. Made it way easy.
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oh, I was reconfiguring the two batteries in my truck, lol

pull the starter wire off the main battery and hook it to the positive of the second battery, hook the negative of that battery to the positive of the main battery
then only the starter sees 24v and nothing else, I was kinda worried about it backfeeding through the solenoid wire
you know how the pull in coil is grounded to the M terminal and the hold in coil is grounded to the body, I was figuring that the solenoid would act like a latching relay since the pull in coil would have 24v backfeeding against the 12v on the S terminal but that didn't turn out to be a thing?

I'd charge the battery hooked inline with the starter cable separately with a plug in charger
was gonna hook that battery up to a solar panel but finally ponied up and bought a new starter for it last year
 
[486] said:
oh, I was reconfiguring the two batteries in my truck, lol

pull the starter wire off the main battery and hook it to the positive of the second battery, hook the negative of that battery to the positive of the main battery
then only the starter sees 24v and nothing else, I was kinda worried about it backfeeding through the solenoid wire
you know how the pull in coil is grounded to the M terminal and the hold in coil is grounded to the body, I was figuring that the solenoid would act like a latching relay since the pull in coil would have 24v backfeeding against the 12v on the S terminal but that didn't turn out to be a thing?

I'd charge the battery hooked inline with the starter cable separately with a plug in charger
was gonna hook that battery up to a solar panel but finally ponied up and bought a new starter for it last year
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The only things I’ve ever tried it on are super simple machines. Like my little tractor, Electricity only goes a few places. Starter, glow plugs, headlights. Thats it. If the key is off it can’t back feed but being mechanically injected it still starts. I have remote start buttons to energize the solenoid and use jumper cables from the batteries to the starter only.

At work out compressors are even more simple than that. Our 3306 cats the alternator only exists to charge the batteries for starting it. They’re magneto solid state ignition. Some units don’t have alternators or batteries. Just a starter and jumper cables bolted directly to it.
 
Ok we’re back to the f2000 mower.

Got it reassembled, it runs kinda like shit with a bunch of white smoke and low power. It doesn’t seem to want to rev all the way, but I dont have a point of comparison for this machine. Compression is still good and no more milk shaking.


Fuel filter looks like shit so ordered a new one, but I’ve always thought white smoke was unburned fuel, not lack of.

Right track with fuel filter or looking at injectors/ something else?
 
Xicor said:
Ok we’re back to the f2000 mower.

Got it reassembled, it runs kinda like shit with a bunch of white smoke and low power. It doesn’t seem to want to rev all the way, but I dont have a point of comparison for this machine. Compression is still good and no more milk shaking.


Fuel filter looks like shit so ordered a new one, but I’ve always thought white smoke was unburned fuel, not lack of.

Right track with fuel filter or looking at injectors/ something else?
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White is usually coolant/water.

It would be very black if it was fuel smoke.
 
Xicor said:
Ok we’re back to the f2000 mower.

Got it reassembled, it runs kinda like shit with a bunch of white smoke and low power. It doesn’t seem to want to rev all the way, but I dont have a point of comparison for this machine. Compression is still good and no more milk shaking.


Fuel filter looks like shit so ordered a new one, but I’ve always thought white smoke was unburned fuel, not lack of.

Right track with fuel filter or looking at injectors/ something else?
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JR4X said:
White is usually coolant/water.

It would be very black if it was fuel smoke.
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I have a Grasshopper ZT with the Kubota D722 in it and it usually lets out a good puff of coal at/during startup and then blows a little white for maybe a minute or so during warmup. Doesn't loose coolant or anything.
 
They will white smoke with air in fuel or starved. Should be accompanied with low power and slow to gain rpm.
 
Got a leak on my old Kubota I picked up. Its coming from the relief valve in the diverter. I think that's the name of it anyway.

You guys that grew up around or work on this stuff daily, can I pull it apart and replace the crush washer or whatever o ring I find?

Its a pretty good drip when running the machine. Mine is a single four way stick, not dual sticks like in the diagram.
 

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got a local auto paint store/shop?

I have one that will color match and put it into a spray bomb can for like $20 here.
this looks to be the paint code.

Autocolor code GDG4

Paint code Autocolor GDG4 - brown : This brown automotive paint color is most commonly known as Adobe Beige. The color formulation has been used only in 1996, primarily by Company Fleet Vehicles.
paintref.com
 
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Wisconsin has alot of cool old tractors just sitting around in restaurant parking lots.

Even there lawn tractors here make my BX look like a hot wheels toy.
 
blthomas said:
Got a leak on my old Kubota I picked up. Its coming from the relief valve in the diverter. I think that's the name of it anyway.

You guys that grew up around or work on this stuff daily, can I pull it apart and replace the crush washer or whatever o ring I find?

Its a pretty good drip when running the machine. Mine is a single four way stick, not dual sticks like in the diagram.
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Yes. Pull that guard off and see if you can get a model # for the valve and just buy a rebuild kit.
 
Time for tires.

Ordered 11.2x24 off Walmart with some tubes and tire irons from Amazon. Walmart was by far the cheapest for the same tire.

Galaxy Earth Pro R-1.

The old ones are original from 1993 and dry rotted to shit and leaking ballast while not holding air. I'll decide to re-ballast or add a weight box later.
 
TiTRD said:
Time for tires.

Ordered 11.2x24 off Walmart with some tubes and tire irons from Amazon. Walmart was by far the cheapest for the same tire.

Galaxy Earth Pro R-1.

The old ones are original from 1993 and dry rotted to shit and leaking ballast while not holding air. I'll decide to re-ballast or add a weight box later.
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If you are going to run ballast, really think about using a tube if you aren't already. The calcuim chloride really takes a toll on the wheels.
 
ORTitan said:
If you are going to run ballast, really think about using a tube if you aren't already. The calcuim chloride really takes a toll on the wheels.
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Ordered tubes too. I've got to work on some rust issues on the wheels while they're apart also.
 
If you're not worried about a leak fucking your crops you might as well run junkyard antifreeze. They'll probably sell you an IBC tote full of it.
 
arse_sidewards said:
If you're not worried about a leak fucking your crops you might as well run junkyard antifreeze. They'll probably sell you an IBC tote full of it.
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My 870 had all 4 filled to,max valve stem height with antifreeze- bright green too so it may have been new.

It’ll be fine til the tires rot around 30 yrs of age.

I want to fill mine someday and had previously considered winter washer fluid as the prime target for cheapest option, but junkyard antifreeze would certainly be worth looking into.
 
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ApeEater said:
Did you buy it yourself, or have someone else fill them?
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i had a local tire shop install it. 16.9x30 rear tires held 780# each. front 11Lx15 had stop leak(Slime) equivalent put in at the same time and I think it was around $700 installed. It's been 3 plus years ago now.
 
TiTRD said:
I'll decide to re-ballast or add a weight box later.
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The difference between filled and non-filled tires on compact sub 5k lbs machine is pretty drastic in my experience; so I’d guess you’ll probably be filling them sooner than later.
 
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WTF? said:
The difference between filled and non-filled tractors on compact sub 5k lbs machine is pretty drastic in my experience; so I’d guess you’ll probably be filling them sooner than later.
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it completely changed how well my FEL worked on mine. fluid in the tires and put a heavy attachment on the 3 point and it will be that much better. I tend to use my box blade since it's closer to the tractor so i don't have to worry about tail swing as much.
 
I absolutely loathe fluid filled tires. I mean yeah it's cheap weight, but damn does it make everything dealing with fixing the tires a pain in the ass... Calcium chloride is all I have been around and it will eat rims up if you have a seep and fuck valve stems up too... Cast iron is hard to beat for weight... Or my personal favorite is a bigger tractor! :flipoff2::usa:
 
billybob_81067 said:
I absolutely loathe fluid filled tires. I mean yeah it's cheap weight, but damn does it make everything dealing with fixing the tires a pain in the ass... Calcium chloride is all I have been around and it will eat rims up if you have a seep and fuck valve stems up too... Cast iron is hard to beat for weight... Or my personal favorite is a bigger tractor! :flipoff2::usa:
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can I get an Amen?!
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
it completely changed how well my FEL worked on mine. fluid in the tires and put a heavy attachment on the 3 point and it will be that much better. I tend to use my box blade since it's closer to the tractor so i don't have to worry about tail swing as much.
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I swapped from a a tractor with filled tires to one without; both very closely speced machines by the same manufacturer, same tire style (turf), etc. and the difference in how planted and stable the filled tires were is almost night & day. The new un-filled machine spun/slipped frequently where as it was almost never in the old one with filled tires.
 
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