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The TRACTOR thread

unless it's got some retard 7v GPs like the fords do, you should be able to hold that bhutan until the battery dies

good bosch GPs or cheap crap autolites?
 
unless it's got some retard 7v GPs like the fords do, you should be able to hold that bhutan until the battery dies

good bosch GPs or cheap crap autolites?
Fuckin ton of fuel, spool, and nitrous.
 
you ever screw with fitting bigger elements into those tiny pumps, or do they come with enough headroom with the stock hardware?

I know IDI injector nozzles are the fuckin tits for flow
 
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you ever fuck around with fitting bigger elements into those tiny pumps, or do they come with enough headroom with the stock hardware?

I know IDI injector nozzles are the fuckin tits for flow
Yes. Certain pumps you can swap in larger bits but not every one. They do gain a decent amount with a little work to the rack and gov before stepping up elements.

Standard process was send it out for bigger elements, mill for max rack travel and some injector voodoo that I'm not sure what was done. There was a few fuel shops in the Midwest building them for pulling tractors.

Probably ditch the cambox next time and go right to an external belt driven pump.
 
Found this on my route last week. I stopped the big truck and went took a peek at it. Owner had just put it out, guy in his 30s. Home on Maternity leave with his wife.

Anyway, he let me poke around on it, drive it, use the loader. I took it up and down the hardtop, across a field, found a pile of riprap to test the bucket. He's had it 10 years or so. Ran like a top with no smoke, loader worked, he's put a bunch of bits on it, so we made a deal, we shook on it, I ran got him a deposit, went back got it today.

He's replaced most lines on the loader, repacked the cylinders, one line looks shady but is holding. Dripping up at the divertor valve. Its a gray market tractor. L2201DT, supposedly same as a L245DT stateside from same era.

I didn't really have major concerns, my buddy said gray market tractors have good support, and even with its age I should be ok on most major parts.

Regardless, I'm in this and the zero turn about $5500 between the two. Could use tires but I'm not really sweating that right now. :homer::laughing:
Saw that one on Marketplace. I haven’t convinced myself I need a tractor yet. But it’s getting higher in the wish list. Let us know how it works out for you. I need more motivation to finally commit to get one :lmao:
 
:lmao:

Stay tuned for more dumb questions I have once this head shows up in my quest to get lucky
She runs! Kinda

Put the head on, checked compression and good to go.

Cranked it over and it sputters to life

I can’t put the exhaust on since the studs don’t come until Monday…turns out the penetrate the water jacket so can’t fill the coolant system either.
 
Probably ditch the cambox next time and go right to an external belt driven pump.
P-pumps on TDIs look ridiculous, pump's 2/3 the size of the motor, lol

Probably just an A or an MW at most would be more than enough for one of them little guys

ETA: ooooh VE pump for that delicious injection timing advance travel, they'll spin 7k, too
 
Its a gray market tractor. L2201DT, supposedly same as a L245DT stateside from same era.

I didn't really have major concerns, my buddy said gray market tractors have good support, and even with its age I should be ok on most major parts.

Regardless, I'm in this and the zero turn about $5500 between the two. Could use tires but I'm not really sweating that right now. :homer::laughing:

That’s a great deal, congrats! it’s hard to find a running driving not leaking tractor with loader under $10k down here.

My biggest complaint with the older Kubota machines was lack of live pto, so you’ve got to be moving for the pt shaft to spin. But shouldn’t be a big deal for most of your target uses.

Edit: I may have missed it- what zero turn did you scoop up?
 
And its got its first flat an hour into ownership
20240406_174802.jpg



And now the pos wont start. Started cold great, ran fine off and on all day, and now its acting like its not getting fuel
 
unless it's got some retard 7v GPs like the fords do, you should be able to hold that bhutan until the battery dies

good bosch GPs or cheap crap autolites?

What are some good constant duty 12v glow plugs that will fit in an IDI? I've been running some dual coil ones, but if you mash down the button and hold it and get to daydreaming you'll burn em up. I hold it for an 8 second count and it'll usually light off right away, or if it is real cold you gotta cycle them a couple times 8-10 seconds on and a minute off. I've been toying around with some timer relays to automate that process and eliminate the fuck-up pushing the button.

Also I have an old L785 new holland I just got that has a perkins diesel in it. It had some weird intake heater coil plugs that were shot so I threw some IDI plugs in there. Took one time of me pushing the button and counting to 8-10 seconds, and then hitting the key to find out that when the key is in the crank position it also fires off the plugs, not only when you're pushing the button. So those burned out instantly. I fixed the wiring so it doesn't turn them on while cranking now, and then bought some autolites that were supposed to be constant duty for an old oldsmobile diesel or some bullshit like that. Put 12v to one bench testing it and it glowed real nice and then made a pop and blew the fucking tip right off. God dammit!
And its got its first flat an hour into ownership



And now the pos wont start. Started cold great, ran fine off and on all day, and now its acting like its not getting fuel

Make sure the tank cap is venting properly.
 
Cracked the injectors and nothing. Fuel filter looks clean through the glass. Im thinking lift pump was on its last leg.

Im pissed and used the tractor it was supposed to replace to push it out of the way. Just going to call the mobile mechanic, pay the bill, and pretend I paid slightly more for my tractor.
 
Cracked the injectors and nothing. Fuel filter looks clean through the glass. Im thinking lift pump was on its last leg.

Im pissed and used the tractor it was supposed to replace to push it out of the way. Just going to call the mobile mechanic, pay the bill, and pretend I paid slightly more for my tractor.
Does it have an electric shut off on the injector pump? Check wiring and all that jazz.
 
Does it have an electric shut off on the injector pump? Check wiring and all that jazz.
Mechanical shutoff, its on a spring return and seems fine.... but it is odd that I killed it by shutting the fuel pump down and it never seemed to pump again after that.
Im still betting the lift pump was on its last leg and went out the last time I was driving it.

Im capable of figuring out and fixing it, im just to busy to evem really look at it for the next two weeks and when my schedule frees up id like to be able to use it.
 
Saw that one on Marketplace. I haven’t convinced myself I need a tractor yet. But it’s getting higher in the wish list. Let us know how it works out for you. I need more motivation to finally commit to get one :lmao:

His phone must have gone off a dozen times while I was there. All messenger. Every one was a tractor question or offer.

Honestly probably one of the nicest people I've met through FBMP. Many of the little items I used to barter, he fixed this week before I picked it up. Did not expect that.

That’s a great deal, congrats! it’s hard to find a running driving not leaking tractor with loader under $10k down here.

My biggest complaint with the older Kubota machines was lack of live pto, so you’ve got to be moving for the pt shaft to spin. But shouldn’t be a big deal for most of your target uses.

Edit: I may have missed it- what zero turn did you scoop up?

Thanks I think its decent, it's a older unit than I thought I should get, but my local friends said I should be okay. I'm a good shade tree but don't know much about tractors.

Biggest concern right now is lack of rops. Quick search looks like I'll need to fab it up.

The zero turn is just a harry homeowner unit. Cub Cadet ZT150. Kawasaki engine. Its two years old, elderly co-op customer had it. It was used for one season before the husband died of cancer. Couldn't pass it up.

Again, I REALLY wanted the nice new Yanmar with attachments. :laughing:. But these two deals I stumbled on are completely okay with me. :smokin:.
 
Cracked the injectors and nothing. Fuel filter looks clean through the glass. Im thinking lift pump was on its last leg.

Im pissed and used the tractor it was supposed to replace to push it out of the way. Just going to call the mobile mechanic, pay the bill, and pretend I paid slightly more for my tractor.
DO NOT PUSH THIS TRACTOR I don't believe you can freewheel it. I owned one of these and had drive problems and it was not cheap or easy
 
What are some good constant duty 12v glow plugs that will fit in an IDI?
bosch duraterms for the 6.2/6.5 chevy
you gotta fuck with the wire terminals since they're spades rather than bullets, but that ain't no big deal
also should bypass the resistor on the solenoid
 
Also I have an old L785 new holland I just got that has a perkins diesel in it. It had some weird intake heater coil plugs that were shot so I threw some IDI plugs in there. Took one time of me pushing the button and counting to 8-10 seconds, and then hitting the key to find out that when the key is in the crank position it also fires off the plugs, not only when you're pushing the button. So those burned out instantly. I fixed the wiring so it doesn't turn them on while cranking now, and then bought some autolites that were supposed to be constant duty for an old oldsmobile diesel or some bullshit like that. Put 12v to one bench testing it and it glowed real nice and then made a pop and blew the fucking tip right off. God dammit!
I know it's overcomplicated and stupid, but it got a hole in the intake that would take one of them thermostart diesel-fired "glow plugs"?
 
Cracked the injectors and nothing. Fuel filter looks clean through the glass. Im thinking lift pump was on its last leg.

Im pissed and used the tractor it was supposed to replace to push it out of the way. Just going to call the mobile mechanic, pay the bill, and pretend I paid slightly more for my tractor.
does the tank only have 3" of juice on the bottom?
 
does the tank only have 3" of juice on the bottom?

It was near empty when I got it home but still ran. I dunped 5 gallons in it (25 gallon tank) and putzed around for about an hour turning it off and on 5 or 6 times. Always fired up no problem. Noticed I pooped a bead off and backed it up 100' to a flat spot to work on it. Fixed the tire and it never started again. Cracked the injector lines and nothing coming out. The residual that was at the injectors was clean diesel and not water or anything.
 
It was near empty when I got it home but still ran. I dunped 5 gallons in it (25 gallon tank) and putzed around for about an hour turning it off and on 5 or 6 times. Always fired up no problem. Noticed I pooped a bead off and backed it up 100' to a flat spot to work on it. Fixed the tire and it never started again. Cracked the injector lines and nothing coming out. The residual that was at the injectors was clean diesel and not water or anything.
I was working on a ride on trencher that was doing this, it had a hole in the pickup tube in the tank. Dump more diesel in it and check again?
 
It was near empty when I got it home but still ran. I dunped 5 gallons in it (25 gallon tank) and putzed around for about an hour turning it off and on 5 or 6 times. Always fired up no problem. Noticed I pooped a bead off and backed it up 100' to a flat spot to work on it. Fixed the tire and it never started again. Cracked the injector lines and nothing coming out. The residual that was at the injectors was clean diesel and not water or anything.

Canister filter or glass/plastic bowl?

You might be on the right track with the lift pump, but it could also be something stupid like a clogged filter or like mentioned above, a bad dip tube.


Looks like aftermarket lift pumps can be found for $25 for that thing. Don't let that mobile mechanic fuck you over on that one! :laughing:
 
bosch duraterms for the 6.2/6.5 chevy
you gotta fuck with the wire terminals since they're spades rather than bullets, but that ain't no big deal
also should bypass the resistor on the solenoid
Cool I'll check em out. The ol IDI isn't too bad as I'm usually good about only holding the button for 8-10 and letting it rest between tries. But one morning I was out of it and in a hurry and brainfarted and held it down for a good 30-45 seconds while cranking and burned quite a few out. :homer:
I know it's overcomplicated and stupid, but it got a hole in the intake that would take one of them thermostart diesel-fired "glow plugs"?
I do know what you're talking about. I'd have to add a reservoir and all that jazz for it to have all the factory perkins diesel fired stuff.

This is the style it had in it. Two of them side by side right where the intake tube comes in and 90s into the intake. I suppose I could just quit being a dumbass and buy the proper ones, But dammit they're $60 a piece! :lmao:

EDIT: Forgot the damn link!

 
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Canister filter or glass/plastic bowl?

You might be on the right track with the lift pump, but it could also be something stupid like a clogged filter or like mentioned above, a bad dip tube.


Looks like aftermarket lift pumps can be found for $25 for that thing. Don't let that mobile mechanic fuck you over on that one! :laughing:

Glass/plastic jar thing with the filter inside.

Looked down in the tank with a flashlight and looks new/clean inside.

Havnt looked at what it takes to get to the top of the tank (under floor) and probably wont have time to mess with it.

Mobile guy here is really good and like $100/hr. Unless I get a day off next week he will be getting a call monday/tuesday to check availability
 
In the winter I’ll hook a 12V starter up on 24V to make it spin fast enough and strong enough to start better. Just don’t forget, and hit the glow plugs when you’re on 24V. They work really good… once.

The starters don’t get hurt as long as you don’t crank them excessively. This is of course only on old full mechanical diesel tractors
 
I do know what you're talking about. I'd have to add a reservoir and all that jazz for it to have all the factory perkins diesel fired stuff.
but they're 20 bucksand don't suck a lot of juice
for a res, use a pill bottle with a hole drilled in the bottom, shove the hose in the hole like a (very) small engine gas tank
you don't want or need a particularly big reservoir
 
In the winter I’ll hook a 12V starter up on 24V to make it spin fast enough and strong enough to start better. Just don’t forget, and hit the glow plugs when you’re on 24V. They work really good… once.

The starters don’t get hurt as long as you don’t crank them excessively. This is of course only on old full mechanical diesel tractors
I've had solenoid contacts weld multiple times doing this
gets "exciting"
I think the 24v solenoids usually have silver contacts in them

now when I'm doing that, I'll clunk the solenoid and hold it with one wire, then stick the starter wire onto a junky sacrificial terminal
the terminals on the battery don't last long otherwise lol
 
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