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Talk me into/out of building a Ford 9" steering axle

JK outers or even a JL.If you are not wanting to go to d60 outers. JKs are 1350 axle Ujoints, and JL are 1410 axle joints. Not cheap, but build with off the shelf jK or JL 35 spline shafts RCV ,Teraflex or G2 and rock out. Both are 5 lug and have larger brakes than previous d44 combos. Then you can build a floater 9in with 5x5 bolt pattern to match the front. Branik will make custom 35 spline grand national style floater shafts.
If you are interested in jk outers, let me know. I have a set of stock Cs and knuckles available.
 
94-99 dodge D60 will be a nice and cheap set up for your outers. Steering arms are plenty high, can do the ttb d50/d60 spindle-out swap if desired, probably can make 15” wheels to fit with a caliper swap to one with smaller bore.

Something you can grow with as needed as any of 2004-older D60s will bolt on to its inner Cs
 
Jks outers can fit TJ 15 inch wheels with an adapter for the bolt pattern. Only issue is that most aftermarket tie rod ends don't clear.
 
TTRAxle&FAB said:
JK outers or even a JL.If you are not wanting to go to d60 outers. JKs are 1350 axle Ujoints, and JL are 1410 axle joints. Not cheap, but build with off the shelf jK or JL 35 spline shafts RCV ,Teraflex or G2 and rock out. Both are 5 lug and have larger brakes than previous d44 combos. Then you can build a floater 9in with 5x5 bolt pattern to match the front. Branik will make custom 35 spline grand national style floater shafts.
If you are interested in jk outers, let me know. I have a set of stock Cs and knuckles available.
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Trailtamer mentioned JL outters running 1410 ujoints :smokin:

I would like to find out where all the axles that failed at the CAD are going? Would be sweet to get them for scrap price.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Trailtamer mentioned JL outters running 1410 ujoints :smokin:

I would like to find out where all the axles that failed at the CAD are going? Would be sweet to get them for scrap price.
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Car-parts.com usually has someone selling cut tubes, I bought a front from a local jeep shop who did a insurance replacement. Already sold those. I also know that ECGS has new JK and JL Cs available for 3in and 3.125 tube
 
TTRAxle&FAB said:
Car-parts.com usually has someone selling cut tubes, I bought a front from a local jeep shop who did a insurance replacement. Already sold those. I also know that ECGS has new JK and JL Cs available for 3in and 3.125 tube
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Do they have them on thier website?

Only place I found them was down to Fab and they were $450/pair and out of stock....
 
TTRAxle&FAB said:
Not on the site.
Both are $425 for a pair.
If interested I can help get them
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Currently just bench racing.

I want to eventually build some light/cheapest axles for my samurai. Talking roughly 100hp, 2500lbs and 35-37s. Toyota axles used to be the go to, but they're drying up and getting expensive.

Honestly, even a retubed xj-tj D30 front would probably be plenty with chromo shafts. Which I recently learned will interchange knuckles with the dodge D44 the op mentioned.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Honestly, even a retubed xj-tj D30 front would probably be plenty with chromo shafts.
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I’m wheeling with 37” IROKS on my XJ with the almighty turd polished HPD30.

surprisingly no breakage or failure on the trail, but I been going through a bunch of U-joints. I have 2 sets of chromo axle shafts, they’re on a rotation.

I want to try JL’s stuff for 1410 sized axle shafts, as that should greatly extend u-joint service life over 5-760x. I don’t want to run blingy 300M u-joints or RCVs.
 
TrailTamer said:
I’m wheeling with 37” IROKS on my XJ with the almighty turd polished HPD30.

surprisingly no breakage or failure on the trail, but I been going through a bunch of U-joints. I have 2 sets of chromo axle shafts, they’re on a rotation.

I want to try JL’s stuff for 1410 sized axle shafts, as that should greatly extend u-joint service life over 5-760x. I don’t want to run blingy 300M u-joints or RCVs.
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This is what I hear a lot, sure a D30 isn't great, but despite that, lots of guys are out there using them.

Cut the wieght and power in half and it should be pretty decent. Most parts are on par with a toyota front, which hold up really well in a samurai.
 
IowaOffRoad

Ford HPD44 vs my XJ HPD30 with WJ knuckle swap.

Old style’s inner Cs is noticeably smaller, limiting you to 5-760X or small RCV bell size.

IMG_7304.jpeg
IMG_7303.jpeg
 
TrailTamer said:
I’m wheeling with 37” IROKS on my XJ with the almighty turd polished HPD30.

surprisingly no breakage or failure on the trail, but I been going through a bunch of U-joints. I have 2 sets of chromo axle shafts, they’re on a rotation.

I want to try JL’s stuff for 1410 sized axle shafts, as that should greatly extend u-joint service life over 5-760x. I don’t want to run blingy 300M u-joints or RCVs.
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Why don’t you want RCV in that setup?
 
fl0w3n said:
Why don’t you want RCV in that setup?
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Pricey, high maintenance and particularly when it’s street driven. Doesn’t help when I’m deaf, where it may be clicking and didn’t get fixed in time.

And RCV void warranty if running over 35” tires…
 
TrailTamer said:
Pricey, high maintenance and particularly when it’s street driven. Doesn’t help when I’m deaf, where it may be clicking and didn’t get fixed in time.

And RCV void warranty if running over 35” tires…
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JL 35 spline rcvs are warrentied to over 43in tires. And that's just the 4340 shafts
 

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TrailTamer said:
Pricey, high maintenance and particularly when it’s street driven. Doesn’t help when I’m deaf, where it may be clicking and didn’t get fixed in time.

And RCV void warranty if running over 35” tires…
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High maintenance? I’ve never heard RCVs referred to as high maintenance. i ask because I’m running a fully polished turd30, actually a WJ30, that I picked up for $800 and is had rcvs already. I’ve debated stepping up to 37 but like you said, rcv doesn’t warranty past 35. It’s not necessarily that I’m worried about a warranty claim, more that rcv probably did their homework and there’s probably good chance 37s could do damage. And I worry that the ring gear or pinion is my weakest link now.
TTRAxle&FAB said:
JL 35 spline rcvs are warrentied to over 43in tires. And that's just the 4340 shafts
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xj/tj/z/wj are smaller shafts only warranties up to 35s
 
TrailTamer said:
Pricey, high maintenance and particularly when it’s street driven. Doesn’t help when I’m deaf, where it may be clicking and didn’t get fixed in time.

And RCV void warranty if running over 35” tires…
Click to expand...

I'm not sure they would be higher maintenance. They only have one zero fitting, so greasing is super easy and I don't think they even require it very often.

TrailTamer said:
Spicer life series require zero maintenance throughout its useful service life. No boots to mess with, no greasing.

I want less maintenance, not more :lmao:
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Zero maintenance until the wear out and need to be replaced. :flipoff2:

Rvc boots are super tough, basically should never have to mess with them.

I'll agree with you on fancy u joints though. I had Yukon super joints for a while and although I bet they would survive over most any axle shaft, the maintenance was a major pain in the ass.
 
TrailTamer said:
Spicer life series require zero maintenance throughout its useful service life. No boots to mess with, no greasing.

I want less maintenance, not more :lmao:
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Just curious, what do you consider the two sets of chromo shafts you carry, the swapping between, and the u joint replacement once you pull one set out of rotation?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'm not sure they would be higher maintenance. They only have one zero fitting, so greasing is super easy and I don't think they even require it very often.



Zero maintenance until the wear out and need to be replaced. :flipoff2:

Rvc boots are super tough, basically should never have to mess with them.

I'll agree with you on fancy u joints though. I had Yukon super joints for a while and although I bet they would survive over most any axle shaft, the maintenance was a major pain in the s is
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This is my first set of rcv and when I called to ask about greasing or if I should consider rebuilding since they’re used and unknown mileage, it was a fast "throw a couple pumps in them and run it without doubt".
 
fl0w3n said:
Just curious, what do you consider the two sets of chromo shafts you carry, the swapping between, and the u joint replacement once you pull one set out of rotation?
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I can fix them. Parts are available at local auto parts stores.

But then admittedly I didn’t look hard at RCVs.
 
TrailTamer said:
I can fix them. Parts are available at local auto parts stores.

But then admittedly I didn’t look hard at RCVs.
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Well, it's hard to spend $1300+ on a dana 30 :laughing:

I'd keep an eye out for a used set, or someone selling a whole axle, like someone mentioned a whole polished D30 doesn't bring much on the used market.
 
ParadisePWoffrd said:
Biggest issue, I see, with going SD parts vs d44/10b, could be weight, and the ability to run 15" wheels. Not sure if there is a "parts house" brake setup that will work on SD axles and 15" wheels?
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The biggest issue might be finding 15 tires
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Well, it's hard to spend $1300+ on a dana 30 :laughing:

I'd keep an eye out for a used set, or someone selling a whole axle, like someone mentioned a whole polished D30 doesn't bring much on the used market.
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I got a whole WJ30 gusseted, sleeved, RCVs, 4.88s on a non-working Auburn locker carrier, solid cover, for $800. Hard to argue for the budget application.
 
fl0w3n said:
I got a whole WJ30 gusseted, sleeved, RCVs, 4.88s on a non-working Auburn locker carrier, solid cover, for $800. Hard to argue for the budget application.
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Exactly, when a 40 year old oMG hIgH pInioN d44 is that much and every part is worn and or rusted out.

Anyway, to what the op is about, I'd have no issue with the idea. You may even be able to find 30 spline lockers for the 9"?

Or do it spidr style and make the D44 side gears fit in the 9" carrier. Then weld it. Or bonus points if you could make a lunchbox work.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Exactly, when a 40 year old oMG hIgH pInioN d44 is that much and every part is worn and or rusted out.

Anyway, to what the op is about, I'd have no issue with the idea. You may even be able to find 30 spline lockers for the 9"?

Or do it spidr style and make the D44 side gears fit in the 9" carrier. Then weld it. Or bonus points if you could make a lunchbox work.
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Didn’t think about trying to make the pig fit D44 axle shafts, though my want of the 9” center stems largely from local, cheap availability of a wide selection of used loaded center sections (typically spools with 31sp). I figured that 9” 31sp custom inners would be the only “custom” and the biggest expense.
 
Dana 50 from a 99-04 and narrow it to what you want. Redrill of swap Dodge parts to 8x6.5. Narrow whatever D60/70 full float rear you happen across for $100.

Custom 9" stuff is too much work for too little gain in your application and I think the diff housing vs the spring perch vs the drive shaft is gonna be a packaging nightmare.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Dana 50 from a 99-04 and narrow it to what you want. Redrill of swap Dodge parts to 8x6.5. Narrow whatever D60/70 full float rear you happen across for $100.

Custom 9" stuff is too much work for too little gain in your application and I think the diff housing vs the spring perch vs the drive shaft is gonna be a packaging nightmare.
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The idea regarding this “custom” 9” is to get the breakable stuff into what’s common at the parts stores everywhere while having gearing flexibility. The areas we wheel are hard on u-joints, axle shafts, and wheel bearings while being relatively easy on lockers and gears. At least that’s been my experience. SD axles are great, but seem heavy and larger than I’m looking for.
Projectjunkie said:
Have you considered fj60 axles? Drop out 3rds, 6x5.5, 15" wheels, decent strength to weight/ size
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I have a set of these axles already. Got them from someone who buys storage lockers for jewelry and furniture, had no idea what he had, I bought a front and rear (rear with a disc brake conversion and spool) with 4:88s plus another mini truck axle and a couple driveshafts for $150. Unfortunately they don’t fit my criteria of what I’m looking for (easy parts store availability). Maybe on the west coast the parts stores have birfs, bearings and seals, and the like on the shelf?
 
IowaOffRoad said:
Unfortunately they don’t fit my criteria of what I’m looking for (easy parts store availability). Maybe on the west coast the parts stores have birfs, bearings and seals, and the like on the shelf?
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You have the axles already, you be $$$ into a custom solution.

Use some of the $$$ to buy and stock spare parts so that you don't need to pay the insane parts store prices. Bearings and seals don't take up much space in the tow rig
 
Custom inner axle shafts would be a significant deterrent to making this thing as "off the shelf" as possible imo. Especially because a broken ujoint can destroy the ears of the shaft, which could leave you stuck until you get another custom shaft made
 
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