gt1guy
Apparently a racist
TRD 09-23-2017 11:29 AM
Such an epic build!!
Just got done reading it all, excited to be a part of it!
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gt1guy 09-24-2017 12:09 AM
And by higher I mean this. 6" up and 10"down. That's over the top of the hood.
Anyone else like the look of those FabFours Grumper fenders?:shitstorm: Me neither.
I think I'm fucked up in my method on this. (I'm figuring this out as I type here, so bear with me) At two wheel bump, the angled truss makes contact with the
frame only on the inboard bottom corner (of the frame). There is a inch or so gap between the outboard corner of the frame and the truss. But when I stuff one
side and droop the other, the truss is making contact flat across the full 2" width of the bottom of the frame. And that's not right.
So, I think I'm actually stuffing it too far. I need to tack some hard stops (bumpstop simulators) to the outside of the frame at 6" of two wheeled bump. I think
the results will be more.......palatable.
Ok, thanks guys, glad we figured that out.
I think I'm going to need removable fenders regardless.
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Biginboca 09-24-2017 06:45 AM
Damn that looks awesome. These are good problems to have lol.
You have ORI's? Could you lower the upper mounts 1" and then still use all the travel? (You can still run the same ride height, or even increase the ride height
1", right?).
Edit: NVM I see you ordered 16" coilovers. What a monster you are making. Have you considered changing your screename to Dr Frankenstein?
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KOWBOY 09-24-2017 08:34 AM
Lookin' to me like a removable body might suit it best. :grin2:
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Wannarun 09-24-2017 10:30 AM
hence why not many buggies have 16" travel shocks on the front axle. Good for you if you are able to maintain 16" wheel travel on the front end (including
steering lock-to-lock) without tons of lift.
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gt1guy 09-24-2017 11:27 AM
I don't have any upper shock mounts made yet, so it's all still a blank canvass. Need to make sure this thing can steer first. Though, stuffing a tire over the top
of the hood right out of the gate, sure got the head scratching started.
Then it wouldn't be a JK.:thefinger:
Ya, that's what I'm trying to find out now. At the moment, it's sitting at 3.25"-3.5" of lift. As I said in a previous post, I think I've been stuffing it too far, so my
data isn't any good. I'll know soon enough.
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Dkjeep 09-24-2017 11:39 AM
I'm done with you if you put any grumper shit on there!
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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TRD 09-24-2017 11:49 AM
16's are a lot to fit in the front of anything with a body, and now it's compounded with low height and huge tires. You seem very willing to cut things out of the
way so I think you'll make it work. :)
Bump stops will help you get a better idea of what's happening. I recommend getting them mounted as far out as possible.
What's the WMS on your axles?
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gt1guy 09-25-2017 12:22 AM
No Grumper shit my friend, no Grumper shit.
Front axle is 73.25" wide. Right now there's no rotor hats on it, so it's sitting 3/8" narrower per side. The rear axle is 72.875" wide. At least that one doesn't
steer.
I did put hard stops (bump stop simulators) on the outboard sides of the frame today. Just a piece of angle tacked to the frame. Actually made quite a bit of
difference.
This is where I'm at on the outside of the frame at 6" of 2 wheel bump. Roughly an inch gap.
Tacked on the pieces of angle to play bump stops.
Passenger side sticks down farther due to the truss height at that point.
Then I drooped out the passenger side to 10"down, without doing anything to the drivers side (still held by the hoist) and ended up with this. Tire up roughly
7.5" and now have 6" between the stop and the truss.
I know this isn't ground breaking shit here, it's just how suspensions articulate. I guess it's just the amount of articulation that surprised me.
I have another core support, so the one on the Jeep can get hacked and I have a el'cheapo ebay grill I bought just for this day. Time to see how far things have
to get chopped to get a usable turning radius.
Turns out, it's right about here.......that should do it. That's just a **** hair shy of 45* steering, 10" droop and 6" stuff.
Here you can see how the stop now sits flush on the truss. You can also see the gap that's now under the frame. At first I was stuffing it until the truss made
contact just like in two wheel bump. That was wrong on my part.
Now, I know most folks are going to instantly think there is no way to make that work, and I can fully understand that. It would be easy to throw a set of 40's
at it, limit the up travel, or add a bunch of lift.
I'm not ready to throw in the towel just yet, for a few reasons. Here's why.
I've been already thinking of making a composite grill for this thing for a while. There's a bunch of the radiator that sits below where the grill openings end at
the bottom. Lowering them would help airflow through the rad. Widening them would help too. Making the center 5 openings a total of .500" wider each, is the
same as having a complete extra slot. That's a big deal.
I already knew trimming to the grill was in it's future, so I figured out that the headlight openings could also be moved inboard 1". Turns out, my ciphering was
a bit off there :D. 7" headlights can't be moved inboard enough, but 90mm/3.5" ones could. Modifying the grill and pulling a mold would be easy.
I slapped tape on the grill and drew a 3.5" light and a turn signal. I don't even know if you can get 3.5" lights with high and low beams in one. More research is definitely needed here. Luckily, I can't say I'm really concerned with how a pair of headlights will look in the grand scheme of things.
For the fenders, I think I have a solution. It's really simple. Use a little bit of the front to close out the side of the modified grill, and use the rear part up to the
firewall. Get rid of the whole center of it. Let the hood determine the wheel opening.
For the hood, it would need a bit of surgery. Each side would need a pie cut taken out longitudinally down the whole length above where it rolls down to the
side. It needs to get narrower as it runs to the front to match up to the modified grill. Basically it needs a dovetail job.
For the fender flares............we don't need no stinking fender flares. Actually we do. Not offroad, no way to pull that off. But for the street, something needs to
be done. Running a tube along the bottom of the hood with some through holes or tabs would allow bolting some flat flares to it. Yes, they would be ripped off
at full stuff or even full two wheel bump, but I can't see it ever getting there driving down the road.
So I need to get a boneyard set of fenders and a hood to play with.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Such an epic build!!
Just got done reading it all, excited to be a part of it!
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 09-24-2017 12:09 AM
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4303137)
Add droop to the other side and it just gets higher. This will be interesting.
And by higher I mean this. 6" up and 10"down. That's over the top of the hood.
Anyone else like the look of those FabFours Grumper fenders?:shitstorm: Me neither.
I think I'm fucked up in my method on this. (I'm figuring this out as I type here, so bear with me) At two wheel bump, the angled truss makes contact with the
frame only on the inboard bottom corner (of the frame). There is a inch or so gap between the outboard corner of the frame and the truss. But when I stuff one
side and droop the other, the truss is making contact flat across the full 2" width of the bottom of the frame. And that's not right.
So, I think I'm actually stuffing it too far. I need to tack some hard stops (bumpstop simulators) to the outside of the frame at 6" of two wheeled bump. I think
the results will be more.......palatable.
Ok, thanks guys, glad we figured that out.
I think I'm going to need removable fenders regardless.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Biginboca 09-24-2017 06:45 AM
Damn that looks awesome. These are good problems to have lol.
You have ORI's? Could you lower the upper mounts 1" and then still use all the travel? (You can still run the same ride height, or even increase the ride height
1", right?).
Edit: NVM I see you ordered 16" coilovers. What a monster you are making. Have you considered changing your screename to Dr Frankenstein?
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
KOWBOY 09-24-2017 08:34 AM
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4303369)
I think I'm going to need removable fenders regardless.
Lookin' to me like a removable body might suit it best. :grin2:
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Wannarun 09-24-2017 10:30 AM
Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4303369)
And by higher I mean this. 6" up and 10"down. That's over the top of the hood
hence why not many buggies have 16" travel shocks on the front axle. Good for you if you are able to maintain 16" wheel travel on the front end (including
steering lock-to-lock) without tons of lift.
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 09-24-2017 11:27 AM
Originally Posted by Biginboca (Post 4303386)
Damn that looks awesome. These are good problems to have lol.
You have ORI's? Could you lower the upper mounts 1" and then still use all the travel? (You can still run the same ride height, or even increase the ride
height 1", right?).
Edit: NVM I see you ordered 16" coilovers. What a monster you are making. Have you considered changing your screename to Dr Frankenstein?
I don't have any upper shock mounts made yet, so it's all still a blank canvass. Need to make sure this thing can steer first. Though, stuffing a tire over the top
of the hood right out of the gate, sure got the head scratching started.
Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4303441)
Lookin' to me like a removable body might suit it best. :grin2:
Carry on.
Then it wouldn't be a JK.:thefinger:
Originally Posted by Wannarun (Post 4303481)
hence why not many buggies have 16" travel shocks on the front axle. Good for you if you are able to maintain 16" wheel travel on the front end
(including steering lock-to-lock) without tons of lift.
Ya, that's what I'm trying to find out now. At the moment, it's sitting at 3.25"-3.5" of lift. As I said in a previous post, I think I've been stuffing it too far, so my
data isn't any good. I'll know soon enough.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________-
Dkjeep 09-24-2017 11:39 AM
I'm done with you if you put any grumper shit on there!
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
_________________________________________________________________________________________________
TRD 09-24-2017 11:49 AM
16's are a lot to fit in the front of anything with a body, and now it's compounded with low height and huge tires. You seem very willing to cut things out of the
way so I think you'll make it work. :)
Bump stops will help you get a better idea of what's happening. I recommend getting them mounted as far out as possible.
What's the WMS on your axles?
________________________________________________________________________________________
gt1guy 09-25-2017 12:22 AM
Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4303506)
I'm done with you if you put any grumper shit on there!
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
No Grumper shit my friend, no Grumper shit.
Originally Posted by TRD (Post 4303514)
16's are a lot to fit in the front of anything with a body, and now it's compounded with low height and huge tires. You seem very willing to cut things out
of the way so I think you'll make it work. :)
Bump stops will help you get a better idea of what's happening. I recommend getting them mounted as far out as possible.
What's the WMS on your axles?
Front axle is 73.25" wide. Right now there's no rotor hats on it, so it's sitting 3/8" narrower per side. The rear axle is 72.875" wide. At least that one doesn't
steer.
I did put hard stops (bump stop simulators) on the outboard sides of the frame today. Just a piece of angle tacked to the frame. Actually made quite a bit of
difference.
This is where I'm at on the outside of the frame at 6" of 2 wheel bump. Roughly an inch gap.
Tacked on the pieces of angle to play bump stops.
Passenger side sticks down farther due to the truss height at that point.
Then I drooped out the passenger side to 10"down, without doing anything to the drivers side (still held by the hoist) and ended up with this. Tire up roughly
7.5" and now have 6" between the stop and the truss.
I know this isn't ground breaking shit here, it's just how suspensions articulate. I guess it's just the amount of articulation that surprised me.
I have another core support, so the one on the Jeep can get hacked and I have a el'cheapo ebay grill I bought just for this day. Time to see how far things have
to get chopped to get a usable turning radius.
Turns out, it's right about here.......that should do it. That's just a **** hair shy of 45* steering, 10" droop and 6" stuff.
Here you can see how the stop now sits flush on the truss. You can also see the gap that's now under the frame. At first I was stuffing it until the truss made
contact just like in two wheel bump. That was wrong on my part.
Now, I know most folks are going to instantly think there is no way to make that work, and I can fully understand that. It would be easy to throw a set of 40's
at it, limit the up travel, or add a bunch of lift.
I'm not ready to throw in the towel just yet, for a few reasons. Here's why.
I've been already thinking of making a composite grill for this thing for a while. There's a bunch of the radiator that sits below where the grill openings end at
the bottom. Lowering them would help airflow through the rad. Widening them would help too. Making the center 5 openings a total of .500" wider each, is the
same as having a complete extra slot. That's a big deal.
I already knew trimming to the grill was in it's future, so I figured out that the headlight openings could also be moved inboard 1". Turns out, my ciphering was
a bit off there :D. 7" headlights can't be moved inboard enough, but 90mm/3.5" ones could. Modifying the grill and pulling a mold would be easy.
I slapped tape on the grill and drew a 3.5" light and a turn signal. I don't even know if you can get 3.5" lights with high and low beams in one. More research is definitely needed here. Luckily, I can't say I'm really concerned with how a pair of headlights will look in the grand scheme of things.
For the fenders, I think I have a solution. It's really simple. Use a little bit of the front to close out the side of the modified grill, and use the rear part up to the
firewall. Get rid of the whole center of it. Let the hood determine the wheel opening.
For the hood, it would need a bit of surgery. Each side would need a pie cut taken out longitudinally down the whole length above where it rolls down to the
side. It needs to get narrower as it runs to the front to match up to the modified grill. Basically it needs a dovetail job.
For the fender flares............we don't need no stinking fender flares. Actually we do. Not offroad, no way to pull that off. But for the street, something needs to
be done. Running a tube along the bottom of the hood with some through holes or tabs would allow bolting some flat flares to it. Yes, they would be ripped off
at full stuff or even full two wheel bump, but I can't see it ever getting there driving down the road.
So I need to get a boneyard set of fenders and a hood to play with.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________