TTB Tech Tips?

At least ditch the mini pack for longer shackles, that will give you a little more flex.
 
If you send me a dimensional drawing of the brackets I'll send them to my buddy with a CNC router and get you some templates for fit up and a CAD file you can use to get them made.

IIRC a dimensional drawing showing a side view with bolt hole location of the axle brackets relative to axle shaft center-line is in the SD60 thread somewhere.
 
arse_sidewards said:
If you want to be ******ed delete the mini pack and put some sort of pivot in it's place to reduce binding. Ideally a double pivot.
Click to expand...
Thought about it, like a transverse shackle slider. Too many moving parts for a work truck.
[486] said:
why not cut the rusty fenders out instead of lifting it?
assuming you're looking for tire clearance
Click to expand...
Running the camber bushings max'd and the leaf springs binding is making things weird. I could probably lose a few of those "leafs" and get it back managable then cut, but its a work truck, hate cut fenders on work trucks.
arse_sidewards said:
Best ROI is probably to bolt buckets onto the frame and weld brackets to the beam for superduty arms.
Click to expand...
I've considered that, or cut the beams I have and weld a spring perch on, which I have material for. Versus buying buckets, and springs and radius arms
bdkw1 said:
At least ditch the mini pack for longer shackles, that will give you a little more flex.
Click to expand...
Never thought of that. OBS Ford front shackles are weird so they wouldn't be an off the shelf thing. Had considered a shackle reversal at one point.
arse_sidewards said:
If you send me a dimensional drawing of the brackets I'll send them to my buddy with a CNC router and get you some templates for fit up and a CAD file you can use to get them made.

IIRC a dimensional drawing showing a side view with bolt hole location of the axle brackets relative to axle shaft center-line is in the SD60 thread somewhere.
Click to expand...
I have access to all the same stuff, but thanks for the offer
TTMotorsports said:
Convert to radius arms and coil springs for best ride arms and ditch the binding leaf springs.

Coil-spring conversion SoloShop - Solo Motorsports

solomotorsports.com solomotorsports.com
Click to expand...
That setup is bitchin, and would be what I would do if I hit the lottery, but not whats happening on this truck.
 
Go ghetto, coil buckets and springs from JY, use rear spring mount for radius arm mount, weld radius arms to beams. Could be done in an afternoon.
 
[486] said:
hate lifted work trucks :fo2:

but my knees just might hurt more than yours
Click to expand...
I used a F250 with a 6" and 44s as a work truck previously lol currently the top of the tailgate is just under *** high to me, on 35s
 
You're not working the work truck hard enough if you think convenience of getting in/out or bed access is the only reason not to lift it.
 
Sky sells 2" drop brackets for the D50 TTB, that would fix your camber issues w/o reworking the beams
www.skysoffroaddesign.com

1980-1997 Ford F-250 4wd (with 2"-2.5" front lift) - TTB Axle Pivot Dr

New! Sky's Ford F-250 TTB Dana 50 axle pivot drop brackets are designed to be used with an existing suspension lift kit. These brackets lower the axles to allow for proper alignment when used with a suspension lift kit. Adjustable camber bolts are included to fine tune your Ford F-250's...
www.skysoffroaddesign.com www.skysoffroaddesign.com
 
www.therangerstation.com

Ford Ranger Dana 44 TTB Conversion FAQ's - The Ranger Station

Congratulations. If you’re looking at this page, you’re likely contemplating a Dana 44 TTB (Twin Traction Beam) swap in your Ford Ranger. It also means that you’re thinking outside of the box, and haven’t given in to the more common … Continued
www.therangerstation.com

I'm loosely following the above guide using the "use the stock pivot locations and just trim the axle shaft" method but I want to use 3/4ton stuff.

3/4 ton and half ton pass beams are the same length and relative pivot position compared to the knuckle. I took a picture and posted it here but can't find it. Just gotta clearance the **** out of the window and add back material.

3/4 ton passenger inner shaft is a bit shorter than the D44, which is fine. for following the guide as is.

The problem I'm running into is that the 3/4ton beams move the diff an inch or two inboard. So if I just graft the D44 driver's beam pivot end. Note the half ton beam on blocks to get it about even in this picture.

attachment(741).jpg



Of course none of the desert twat build threads where they graft D50 stuff onto D44 beams mention this because they're all going ******ed wide and running longer shafts.

Not sure where to go from here.

I could make a new pivot bracket and use the D50 driver beam as is. Not geometrically ideal but figuring out a shorter pass inner is probably easiest option. Also not sure if I can package that. There's only about an inch to move the 3rd in before it starts having problems with the crossmember.

I could split the difference and move the pivot point on the driver's beam out to get within about an inch to matching the half ton beam and then try and pull 3/4 or so much out of the outboard portion of the beam and then cut as much off the shaft. IDK how possible that is. Gotta dig through the parts pile.

Grafting the 3/4 ton C onto the 1/2 ton beam would be easy enough but I'm not sure what I could do for a driver's side axle shaft since it'd need to be 1350 and ~2" shorter than a D44TTB inner. IDK if anything not custom exists for that.

Anyone have input?

'84 Bronco II I know you've dealt with this stuff.
 
arse_sidewards said:
www.therangerstation.com

Ford Ranger Dana 44 TTB Conversion FAQ's - The Ranger Station

Congratulations. If you’re looking at this page, you’re likely contemplating a Dana 44 TTB (Twin Traction Beam) swap in your Ford Ranger. It also means that you’re thinking outside of the box, and haven’t given in to the more common … Continued
www.therangerstation.com

I'm loosely following the above guide using the "use the stock pivot locations and just trim the axle shaft" method but I want to use 3/4ton stuff.

3/4 ton and half ton pass beams are the same length and relative pivot position compared to the knuckle. I took a picture and posted it here but can't find it. Just gotta clearance the **** out of the window and add back material.

3/4 ton passenger inner shaft is a bit shorter than the D44, which is fine. for following the guide as is.

The problem I'm running into is that the 3/4ton beams move the diff an inch or two inboard. So if I just graft the D44 driver's beam pivot end. Note the half ton beam on blocks to get it about even in this picture.

attachment(741).jpg



Of course none of the desert twat build threads where they graft D50 stuff onto D44 beams mention this because they're all going ******ed wide and running longer shafts.

Not sure where to go from here.

I could make a new pivot bracket and use the D50 driver beam as is. Not geometrically ideal but figuring out a shorter pass inner is probably easiest option. Also not sure if I can package that. There's only about an inch to move the 3rd in before it starts having problems with the crossmember.

I could split the difference and move the pivot point on the driver's beam out to get within about an inch to matching the half ton beam and then try and pull 3/4 or so much out of the outboard portion of the beam and then cut as much off the shaft. IDK how possible that is. Gotta dig through the parts pile.

Grafting the 3/4 ton C onto the 1/2 ton beam would be easy enough but I'm not sure what I could do for a driver's side axle shaft since it'd need to be 1350 and ~2" shorter than a D44TTB inner. IDK if anything not custom exists for that.

Anyone have input?

'84 Bronco II I know you've dealt with this stuff.
Click to expand...
The diff location on the 50 doesn't matter as much as it was never intended for much uptravel. The arm on the beam will foul the cross member before the diff unless you have drop down brackets. The 44 beams tuck up much better. Not sure if I get the point of putting 50 stuff on a ranger frame.
 
TTMotorsports said:
Are you wanting to use D50 stuff for 8 lug and bigger knuckles? There's a few different ways to get 8 lug on the d44 beams.
Click to expand...
I want the brakes, spindle and 1350 joints.


bdkw1 said:
The arm on the beam will foul the cross member before the diff unless you have drop down brackets.
Click to expand...
I test cycled D44 beam without a radius arm and I don't think 44 vs 50 is a huge difference. You're gonna hit up top and they're the same there.

I'm willing to do a whole bunch of cutting and welding on the beam itself I don't think it matters all that much. If it's a problem I'll fix it.


TTMotorsports said:
Are you wanting to use D50 stuff for 8 lug and bigger knuckles? There's a few different ways to get 8 lug on the d44 beams.

Welding d50 lower BJ ear onto the D44 beam gets you bigger knuckles BJs and hubs if you want that.

FB_IMG_1748789218340.jpg
Click to expand...

That would mostly solve my problems. What are you using for a driver's inner shaft with that setup.
 
Use a D50 axles and d50 diff in the d44 beam. D50 and D44 axles are same size splines so they're interchangeable. I just machined a D44 inner pass axle to put into my D44 beams so I could get an offset 1350 joint to get max travel and larger joint.

D50 inner axle has to be machines to fit into the diff and end needs ground down so c clip can be used.
20250521_165438.jpg
20250521_165420.jpg
20250521_165441.jpg
20250521_170559.jpg
 
I'm asking about the other side. I'm not worried about the passenger side.

The D50 driver's inner is clearly longer than the D44 driver's inner. Look at those pictures. There needs to be more than an inch more shaft there for the same engagement in the diff.

I can go dig through my axle shaft inventory tomorrow but the pic I posted sure seems to indicate that.
 
I'll go through the axle pile and take stock of things tomorrow. I have a complete set of 44 and 50 axles to compare.
 
arse_sidewards said:
@'84 Bronco II I know you've dealt with this stuff.
Click to expand...

I ended up getting a custom driver's inner shaft for my Dana 35 to do the 30 spline conversion and run the modified Dana 50 passenger inner shaft with off the shelf 4340 aftermarket Dana 35 shafts from JBG. What you are talking about is much more involved.

The 1350 joints with the external retaining rings are going to be a headache since the Dana 50 TTB is the only application I am aware of that used them. I know you're probably trying to do this on the cheap so custom axle shafts are probably out, but you might hit up Foote and see if the will do a 1350 external retaining ring shaft, but I doubt it.

Now here's the interesting idea that I have not verified whether it will work: Many people make custom 5-7166X (JK/JL axle shaft U-joint) axle shafts. I suspect the cross is the same as a 5-1350X, but it is an inside retaining ring variant, so I think you might be able to buy one of each joint and just swap two caps to marry a 5-7166X shaft to a 5-1350X shaft. I have some 5-7166X joints in my possession, but they are assembled into shafts I don't really feel like taking apart.

The 5-1350X joints are definitely an upgrade over the 5-760X Dana 35/Dana 44 joints, and the Dana 50 30 spline outers are better than the 19 spline outers in the dana 44, so it would be cool if you can make it work. It would have been so much nicer if Ford had made the Dana 44HD and Dana 50 beams the same dimensions as the 5 lug Dana 44 stuff and used a more standard U-joint for aftermarket support. I do like the external retaining ring design though.
 
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TTMotorsports said:
Use a D50 axles and d50 diff in the d44 beam. D50 and D44 axles are same size splines so they're interchangeable. I just machined a D44 inner pass axle to put into my D44 beams so I could get an offset 1350 joint to get max travel and larger joint.

D50 inner axle has to be machines to fit into the diff and end needs ground down so c clip can be used.
20250521_165438.jpg
Click to expand...

This seems odd to me. i have swapped D50 shafts into my d44 center section with no modification. They fit just fine, no machining required, i can't comment on the c-clip though as i have an ARB, so I am using an external spring on the slip joint.
~Phil
 
Yeah if not using the c- clip on the pass stub then they slide right in. I know the axle is about 3/8" less engagement on the splines but it's fully in the spider gear even without machining the shaft so it should be fine
 
I believe he used stock shafts or stock extended shafts like threat Ohcho etc use on their extended beams. Go fast not crawling so most dont use 4x4 often ir when going fast, I know I dont use 4x4 ever unless I'm starting to get stuck in the sand or mud, both which I avoid when possible.
 
So turns out the 2wd Excursion radius arm swap I love so much isn't a bolt on on a Ranger because it lands the bracket right where the crossmember is. Gotta fab something to make it all work.

Still boggles the mind that you can run a 9" shock on one of these with just F150 coil buckets and extended brake hoses. That's probably 10-11" at the wheel. :laughing:
 
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