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TTB Tech Tips?
- Thread starter Toreadorranger
- Start date
reptillikus
ate lug
I know, but Details says Dana 44. And the Spicer book says it fits D44 too. But, i was still wrong, because it says 79 D44, not the TTB.
(i may have edited my last post after you replied, i had to walk out to go to my kid's kindergarten orientation)
(i may have edited my last post after you replied, i had to walk out to go to my kid's kindergarten orientation)
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
The knurled section of the OEM stud is .55" the new stud is .575, so I will have to bore the holes slightly in the knuckles to get them to fit. The step right after the threads on the new studs are .55" so they just quite dont fit in the current holes.
You can see how badly rusted the heads on the old studs were.
You can see how badly rusted the heads on the old studs were.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Why not try to press one in before you go drilling?The knurled section of the OEM stud is .55" the new stud is .575, so I will have to bore the holes slightly in the knuckles to get them to fit. The step right after the threads on the new studs are .55" so they just quite dont fit in the current holes.
You can see how badly rusted the heads on the old studs were.
Have you measured the hole in the hub yet?
arse_sidewards
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And here I was thinking you were trying to double up to 10-studs 
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
The knuckle holes are .44"
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Is .020" big enough difference?
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
I ran a 29/64s Drill bit through one of the knuckles and the studs pressed in fine. They have slightly more stick out but shouldn't interfere with anything.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Lets talk Radius arms. I don't want to spend $800 on a nice set so DIY is the path. I know how to center a Solid axle and setup link arms, but with the two separate beams, are there any tricks to mocking up extended radius arms. Anything special that needs to be done other then center the beams where they should be and measure? I figure Ill use the section of the stock arms that attaches to the beams and then build from there.
![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
dunno if it is an issue or not but the slip yoke half of the d50 shaft really bothered me with how shitty of an angle it allowed and didn't have much meat on it at all for clearancing
Just how it looked next to its mating yoke which itself was beautifully clearanced bothered me.
the 31 spline is the same as all of ford's driveshaft output slip yokes, so I grabbed one of them off of one of those real ugly 97-era f150s, it's got a real nice thick wall and plenty of meat on the yoke area, same 1350 joint and all
arse_sidewards
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99-04 2WD superduty/excursion (maybe even 05+, I've never seen a set IDK) arms will bolt right to your beams. You need frame side brackets to go with. They are as long as most of the aftermarket arms sold back in the day. Plate them if you feel you need it.
arse_sidewards
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This is a real great tip for the people doing a D44 into RBV using stock pivots because in that swap you trim a little of the spline. A longer slip yoke for the female portion would get you more engagement at full bump.
ZSK
Well-known member
Replacement part numbers on the radius arms list the application for 99-07 and a separate part number for 08 and newer. The TIB axle shows the same part number for 01-20 so any radius arm should fit the TTB axle if you grab the matching frame mount.
arse_sidewards
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Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
The problem Im finding with the Superduty TIB arms is the price. Im having a hard time finding them for under $125 per side without driving 2-3 hours.
If you want to get a shipping quote out of abq, I just got a pair from my local pick n pull for ~$65.
Shipping across the country always fucks stuff up though, would probably make it unworth it for both of us but figured I'd offer.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Pulling this back up. I've been trying to buy a set of arms off a 2001 for 3 weeks now and the guy has been nearly impossible to get a hold of. Im starting to look at arms else where at this point. Dorman lists only 1 part number for 99-2017. I think I'm going to expand my search to include the newer trucks from all the pictures I can find they look the same.
I have dumb ideas and want to see about planning out a future build involving ttb and 37s. (85 Bronco 4.9/NP435/NP208)
What would be stronger?
-D44 ttb chromoly shafts with full circle ujoint clips
-D50 ttb stock shafts (because they have bigger ujoints with full circle clips in all locations)
The smaller outer ujoints appear to be the weak link in terms of standing up to offroad abuse in a wheeling situation on big tires with a TTB, so I've been getting really curious as to whether or not it would be worth the effort to bastardize D50 parts into my bronco to make it more robust for potentially handling 37s for trail use. You think the bigger joints would offset the need for chromoly shafts? Nobody that I'm aware of makes off-the-shelf D50 chromo shafts, so it seems like a bit of a pick your poison scenario on the surface.
Thoughts?
What would be stronger?
-D44 ttb chromoly shafts with full circle ujoint clips
-D50 ttb stock shafts (because they have bigger ujoints with full circle clips in all locations)
The smaller outer ujoints appear to be the weak link in terms of standing up to offroad abuse in a wheeling situation on big tires with a TTB, so I've been getting really curious as to whether or not it would be worth the effort to bastardize D50 parts into my bronco to make it more robust for potentially handling 37s for trail use. You think the bigger joints would offset the need for chromoly shafts? Nobody that I'm aware of makes off-the-shelf D50 chromo shafts, so it seems like a bit of a pick your poison scenario on the surface.
Thoughts?
Snowracer
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Ultimate Ford TTB CV Axles for Bronco & F-150 ('84-'86 & '88-'96.5) & F250 ('84-'85.5) - Clip Style
RCV Performance Ultimate TTB CV axles are designed to easily replace the u-joint axle shafts of the Ford Twin Traction Beam axle with a high-strength constant velocity design. Tests prove Ultimate CV Axles to be twice as strong as the OEM shafts, and they're just as tough at a straight angle as...
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
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If this is just a general purpose rig and you're not gonna full send it in the whoops and do the fab work and drop the coin on supporting parts (fancy shocks) it takes to do that effectively I would just SD60 and be done with it.
If you are going to build the TTB then use the D50 stuff.
I should have known there was something like that out there lol. Point takenUltimate Ford TTB CV Axles for Bronco & F-150 ('84-'86 & '88-'96.5) & F250 ('84-'85.5) - Clip Style
RCV Performance Ultimate TTB CV axles are designed to easily replace the u-joint axle shafts of the Ford Twin Traction Beam axle with a high-strength constant velocity design. Tests prove Ultimate CV Axles to be twice as strong as the OEM shafts, and they're just as tough at a straight angle as...www.rcvperformance.com
I already invested a half hour of time and $65 into getting SD TIB radius arms for a "rock-crawler-esque-ttb-on-the-cheap" so dana 50 parts it is
reptillikus
ate lug
Yeah I was gonna say RCVs as well. I know there's a guy on FSB running turned D44 beams and RCVs on 44s and it seems to be holding up altho I dunno how hard he wheels that monster.Ultimate Ford TTB CV Axles for Bronco & F-150 ('84-'86 & '88-'96.5) & F250 ('84-'85.5) - Clip Style
RCV Performance Ultimate TTB CV axles are designed to easily replace the u-joint axle shafts of the Ford Twin Traction Beam axle with a high-strength constant velocity design. Tests prove Ultimate CV Axles to be twice as strong as the OEM shafts, and they're just as tough at a straight angle as...
I don't think D50 shafts will fit between the ball joints on a D44 so you'd need the D50 beam but they're shorter than the D44 beam which kinda sucks. So now you're building a hybrid D44/D50 ttb.
Extend D50 beams to match D44 beams.
FWIW I ran old clapped grooved 39" TSLs on my Ranger, 2.9 V6 5 speed 4.88s and Dana 35 front. Spicer u joints (same size as D44 TTB) and tack welded the caps in. It wasn't used on west coast rocks so it probably wouldn't have held up, but worked in New England mud/muddy trails. You running the 4.9 probably helps the axle shafts a lot
FWIW I ran old clapped grooved 39" TSLs on my Ranger, 2.9 V6 5 speed 4.88s and Dana 35 front. Spicer u joints (same size as D44 TTB) and tack welded the caps in. It wasn't used on west coast rocks so it probably wouldn't have held up, but worked in New England mud/muddy trails. You running the 4.9 probably helps the axle shafts a lot
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
I can tell you from experience that setup won't hold up out here
willis_racing I think the easiest option is to just throw a cheap 4340 axle kit in the Dana 44 and see if that lives. They are only $435 with Spicer 5-760X U-joints from Bronco Graveyard and a lifetime warranty to boot. I haven't actually broken a 5-760X joint yet, I just keep ripping the ears off the stock axle yokes. The aftermarket axles have more material in this area in addition to being a better material, so you might be fine. If they offered a complete 4340 axle set for the Dana 35 I would have gone this route.
Bang for your buck if you consider your labor to be free, either weld 50 outers on to a Dana 44 or extend Dana 50 beams to 1/2 ton Dana 44 length. The Dana 50 3rd and center joint/stub will bolt on to a Dana 44 beam, but the Dana 50 outer joints will not fit in a 1/2 ton Dana 44 C/Knuckle. Then grab a Dana 60U to put in the rear and match the 8-lug front. This is also the
option compared to aftermarket shafts.Dana 44 RCVs are way overpriced for the strength they actually provide.
That's what I was hinting at, I was just being overly concise. Making a jig to do that wouldn't be terrible but it's obviously a lot of work for the "not a lot" of performance I'll be asking of it
I'm willing to experiment
That thing is so easy on drivetrain it isn't even funny. in granny first and low range the thing will crawl up a wall at like 400 rpm, and that's on stock 3.55 gears and 35s.
Probably what we'll go with to start for a few years and see if it has the same issues you do. I also most likely won't be running 37s that are nearly as heavy as yours as well.
right, I figured the D50 shafts having bigger joints and yokes might offset that for junkyard prices, but that was just a theory. I figured maybe that might be a moot point if the JBG 4340s are stronger though.
I was unaware of the bold part specifically. That's big.
Or a D70uBang for your buck if you consider your labor to be free, either weld 50 outers on to a Dana 44 or extend Dana 50 beams to 1/2 ton Dana 44 length. The Dana 50 3rd and center joint/stub will bolt on to a Dana 44 beam, but the Dana 50 outer joints will not fit in a 1/2 ton Dana 44 C/Knuckle. Then grab a Dana 60U to put in the rear and match the 8-lug front. This is also the
sounds like a D70u
Maybe I should go grab those 44hd knuckles so we can measure the stub shafts and see if they can accept the JBG shafts?
Edit: They don't make an ox locker for a 35spl D70U. Gay.
Last edited:
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
According to JBG, the 1/2 ton outers are about a 1/10th of an inch longer than the 3/4 ton outers (9.92" vs. 9.806"), but maybe you could take up that extra length with something as simple a a washer behind the C-clip?
You don't really gain much with the 3/4 ton outers other than bigger brakes and an 8 lug pattern to match a 1 ton rear. If you are going to go through that much trouble, you shoud graft the Dana 50 Cs to your 44 beams
I do feel a bit bad for what I did to that Dana 70u, but in all liklihood, it is probably going to be turned into Chinesium anyway.
I didn't figureI can tell you from experience that setup won't hold up out here
arse_sidewards
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44hd knuckles use D50 ball joint spacing. You can't run them on half ton beams.
You need to graft the knuckle at which point you may as well run D50 stuff.
You need to graft the knuckle at which point you may as well run D50 stuff.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
I thought it looked like there was a whole lot more space around those U-joints on the 8 lug Dana 44 TTB we were eye balling at the junkyard.
[486]
ugh, that guy again?
or lop the d50 lower ball joint stud dinguses outta the D50 beams and graft them onto the 44 beams
gonna be hacking the inner cs apart anyways to do the cut and turn, may as well flabbulate parts around