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That’s how I do it. But the light springs are load sensitive and I have to find middle ground on the adjustment between just me in the car and the whole family in the car. It just takes a few more adjustments than a straight axle. It sure rides better though.
What coil are you using there and what's your tare weight on the front axle? (I'm assuming stock length beams)
There's a lot of good info in here, but I don't completely agree with all of it, and it seems a lot of people have lost sight of the "budget" caveat.
Let me start by saying that the BIGGEST issue with the factory TTB setup is the steering geometry which is only exacerbated with lifts, softer springs, and increased travel. Web wheelers all want to blame the camber change in a TTB setup for funky tire wear and handling, but it is really the steering geometry, which is not easy to fix and address. The factory steering linkage causes massive and unequal toe changes, so even if you have a perfect alignment at static ride height, as soon as the suspension moves at all, things immediately go out of whack. This causes the strange jacking behavior and bad tire wear that's commonly associated with TTB. To make matters worse, most drop pitman arms supplied with lift kits do not actually drop the draglink low enough to compensate for a 4" or greater lift. Skyjacker does make a longer drop pitman arm (FA600), but it is stupid expensive and still doesn't fix the shitty factory Y-link steering.
There are several solutions to the steering issue with varying levels of complexity and effectiveness. In rough order of complexity: Modified Y-Link (AKA "Stone Crusher" style), K-Link ("Superunner" style), and Cross-Over/Swing set. The modified Y-link and K-link style steering systems are good enough for the average trail wheeler who wants to be able to run soft springs, while the swing set/cross over setups are what most desert guys want to run since they result in the minimum amount of toe change and bumpsteer. The only commercially available corrective steering linkage I am aware of is the Superlift Superunner kit, but it still needs to be modified in many cases to make it work as it should with 4" or higher lifts. Here's a pretty good article 4x4junkie wrote up on the Ranger Station forever ago.
Now for the "Cut and Turn" the pivot vs. modifying the lower ball joint location/"cut and turn" the "C" vs. drop bracket debate, that isn't really cut and dry. There are tradeoffs with all three options. Cutting and turning the pivot on the beam will allow you to keep stock pivot points on the frame and avoid extra leverage creating stress, and give you marginally better ground clearance. This will also give your suspension a higher geometric roll center and make the beams much more prone to jacking in off-camber and hard cornering situations which will make your rig less stable. The higher effective beam angle will also transfer more vertical force into the frame when the suspension compresses. The jacking and force transfer is much like suspension links at steep angles do with a solid axle. Cutting and turning the "C" or relocating the lower ball joint has all the same disadvantages as cutting and turning the pivots, but results in significantly more ground clearance. However, this puts all of the U-joints at an angle at static ride height and the wheels pointed straight which can limit your maximum steering angle and suspension droop due to joint bind. The biggest issues with drop brackets are that you won't gain any ground clearance, and most aftermarket lift kit companies have weak drop bracket designs that won't hold up under heavy trail use. As others have mentioned, Skyjacker is the exception and makes good quality drop brackets, and I personally haven't experienced or heard of issues from people using Skyjacker drop brackets. The big advantage of drop brackets are that they keep the effective angle of the beam much more level which results in minimized jacking and force transfer through the frame during compression. My personal opinion is that if you are going to raise the ride heigh more than an inch or two, drop brackets are the best option for most general trail rigs due to the ease of install/fabrication and the ride quality and stability they provide by keeping the beams at a flatter angle.
www.diyoffroad.com
the upside to the double adjustables is getting some caster back into things, sometimes its not possiible with the simple ones
Are you cutting the entire end of the beam off and keeping the ball joints inline or just moving the lower out and leaving the top alone?
I believe he did both, but that was because he widened the beams. The balljoint was for camber correction though.
Aren't there a factory OEM equivalent?Yukon Gear & Axle YSPSTUD-009 Yukon Gear & Axle Wheel Studs | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Yukon Gear & Axle Wheel Studs with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Wheel Studs at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
These might fit the bill, with a flat cut onto the end to clear the knuckle. They are only .15 longer then the factory studs. I'm less than pleased with the pricing @ $6 a stud though.
Wheel Stud Thread Size: 7/16 in.-20
Knurl Diameter (in.): 0.468 in.
Underhead Length (in.): 1.500 in.
