TTB Tech Tips?

Budget is around $2000. Not much, but in the future would like to do more fun stuff with it.

Plus, I can swap in a set of shocks and springs and build a set of brackets to mount the radius arms in a weekend. Just wondering if it would be worth the effort over leaving it stock. Planning to rip it out anyways in the future for something better as funds allow.
 
this
solomotorsports.com

Bronco & F-150 Leveling Lift Kit with Radius Arms / 1980-1996

1980-1996 Ford Bronco & F-150 Leveling Lift Kit with Extended Radius Arms. Fits 35" tires and pick between Bilstein or Fox Shocks
solomotorsports.com solomotorsports.com

hack the front of coil bucket up a little and scab this in there
www.summitracing.com

Dorman 523-054 Dorman Shock Mounts | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Dorman Shock Mounts with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Shock Mounts at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

slap these on your beams
desolatemotorsports.com

Weld-on Beam Shock Mounts

This lower shock mount welds directly to the beam and is kicked out at an angle to clear steering components. These mounts are used for TTB coil over long travel kits . The inner mounting spread is 1.5” for use with race style shocks. Sold in raw finish as a pair. Note: Installation requires...
desolatemotorsports.com desolatemotorsports.com

buy these
the_white_shadow

TX Thread '2.5" Fox Smoothie 10" Travel Remote Reservoir Shocks - Accutuned'

im selling a set (2) of 2.5" Fox Smoothie Remote Reservoir shocks with a 10" travel. They were bought and tuned last year at Accutune for a cantilever project that never happened. Never installed or mocked up. Just taken out of the box for pics. Part Number: FOX-980-02-101

Link to the newer black version. Same as mine internally. Fox 2.5 x 10″ Smooth Body Remote Reservoir Shock – AccuTune Off-Road

$800 Price doesnt include shipping. Will ship on your dime. Yes they will fit your Jeep. Located in East Bernard, TX 77435
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that would give you a pretty solid front end in that 2k range with minimal effort
 
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I made this **** way harder on myself by in-boarding the radius arm ends because I didn't want to replace the nice rubber mounted trans crossmember with a solid one that also holds the radius arms. So now I'm slicing up and rebuilding the arms so they don't conflict with the beams as I angle them in.

Pass side went easy, just a little cut and tap with the hammer.
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Driver's side completely conflicts with the pinion and is gonna turn into a ****show where I have to cut most of the top of the arm off and move that structure somewhere else.

attachment(1028).jpg


I guess on the plus side the drive shaft will be protected from just about anything.
 
Driver's side took a ton of cutting. Gonna have to throw a ton of steel at it to get the strength back. Ford really put a lot of pinion angle into the beam. Full bump is gonna be interesting. Full droop should be cake though.

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[486] said:
why are you putting your radius arm pivots so far inboard?
doesn't make much sense to go inside the frame rail when looking at tire clearance
maybe trying for low COG and a flat bottom?
Click to expand...
******ed incremental decision making.

By angling them inboard I make them shorter in the fore-aft direction so I could just slap the cross-member up there without having to **** around with the OEM transmission cross-member. If I mounted them normal the brackets would be right where the cross-member is.

Getting closer to "normal" A-arm mounting line should result in less wear on the bushing and less fore-aft tire movement as the suspension cycles. A bunch of people have done it over the years but the juice really isn't worth the squeeze and it's not the reason I did it. This does come out like 1" or so better in the ground clearance department but once again that's not why I did it and it comes at the expense of making a skid plate way harder to fab.

There's also no reason to keep the OEM arm length and swooped arm shape since I'm this far in but it saves material and looks cool so here we are.

I'm fully aware this is ******ed and more effort for no extra results but whatever, I'm committed.
 
Atleast you have a realistic attitude about it. lol. I'm curious to see this all installed. I've seen the center mounted radius arms on 2wd i beam trucks, but never on a 4wd before.
 
I was reading through this thread last night. Gotta say, a ton of good info in here and I can't believe I've missed it until now. Probably because I'm about to embark on a TTB journey of my own.
I am planning on buying the Thread Motorsports WIY cut and turn beam, plating, and uniball kit.
I have two questions prior to ordering. 1: What size should I go to run 37's and be able to keep my stock fenders? I'm leaning 2" extension. Is that the limit? 2: This will be mainly a trail rig, little rock crawling, and some minimal go fast. Is the stability and travel of the 2" extension worth it? Or better to leave it stock length?
I will be running re-centered H1 24 bolt wheels with 5 lug centers, so I can set the backspace where I need to, to stuff into the fenders.
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
I was reading through this thread last night. Gotta say, a ton of good info in here and I can't believe I've missed it until now. Probably because I'm about to embark on a TTB journey of my own.
I am planning on buying the Thread Motorsports WIY cut and turn beam, plating, and uniball kit.
I have two questions prior to ordering. 1: What size should I go to run 37's and be able to keep my stock fenders? I'm leaning 2" extension. Is that the limit? 2: This will be mainly a trail rig, little rock crawling, and some minimal go fast. Is the stability and travel of the 2" extension worth it? Or better to leave it stock length?
I will be running re-centered H1 24 bolt wheels with 5 lug centers, so I can set the backspace where I need to, to stuff into the fenders.
Click to expand...
I assume a full size bronco or F-150 on D44 TTB? There might be some value to stock width (can use stock shafts) and then running a slightly higher offset wheel so the D44 lockout doesn't stick out so far. I run 37s on my D44 TTB (granted on a ranger) and with a 17x8.5 wheel with 4.5" of backspacing i smash the lockouts all the time.

The cool thing about TTB is that you get the same amount of travel with a +2" beam and 5" of B.S as you do with a stock width and 3" of B.S. lol.

~Phil
 
CowBro said:
I assume a full size bronco or F-150 on D44 TTB? There might be some value to stock width (can use stock shafts) and then running a slightly higher offset wheel so the D44 lockout doesn't stick out so far. I run 37s on my D44 TTB (granted on a ranger) and with a 17x8.5 wheel with 4.5" of backspacing i smash the lockouts all the time.

The cool thing about TTB is that you get the same amount of travel with a +2" beam and 5" of B.S as you do with a stock width and 3" of B.S. lol.

~Phil
Click to expand...
Thanks, and that makes sense. Yes, 96 Bronco. D44 ttb with D50 chunk is my plan. I'm with you 100% on stock length shafts for simplicity.
 
Im running a 35x12.5 on a 17x9.5 with -18 offset (aka 4.54" backspacing). Stock width beams on a 2.5" lift

This is the best pic i have right now, i can get a better one tomorrow if needed. But i added the Bushwacker street flares (which add 3/4" of extra coverage, IIRC) to help cover the tire tread
05.jpg
 
you wont be able to tuck stock fenders without cutting them to make room for a 37. 1.5” per side is the general consensus with a 35 keeping the stock fender intact.

buddy has adtermarket wheels and kisses fender with a desolate kit. other buddy has OEM alcoas and has no issues. when i build mine i cleared 35s, no trimming, but pushed the front forward ~1-1.5” typically people have issues getting into the heater box but i was good.
 
Last edited:
mobil1syn said:
you wont be able to tuck stock fenders without cutting them to make room for a 37. 1.5” per side is the general consensus with a 35 keeping the stock fender intact.

buddy has adtermarket wheels and kisses fender with a desolate kit. other buddy has OEM alcoas and has no issues. when i build mine i cleared 35s, no trimming, but pushed the front forward ~1-1.5” typically people have issues getting into the heater box but i was good.
Click to expand...
You're saying the consensus is extending the beams 1.5", or push forward 1.5"?
Haven't seen much on the pushing forward. I'm guessing its done with radius arm adjustment and mount placement?
 
Toreadorranger said:
I didn't find a thread based around TTB. With the truck I just picked up, Im planning to keep the D44. Normally I would pull it and throw a solid up front so I am in new territory here with the ttb. I'm open to anything to improve the front end basic or not.

I'm looking at 4" drop brackets for the truck, Ive read in the past that half of them out there are **** and bend or cause issues. I also remember reading that EB coils are useful for getting the front to flex a bit.

I'm essentially starting from scratch on this thing. Where is 4x4junkie? I need him to teach me all the TTB propaganda. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
The only time I ever got them with a kit was from Skyjacker in the early 90s. They were solid pieces i threw them on the pile with the axle before I drove it though.
I was literally just saying I’m considering using a D50 or building TTB with 9” center and sd60 knuckles
 
Toreadorranger said:
Let’s talk Radius arms. I don't want to spend $800 on a nice set so DIY is the path. I know how to center a Solid axle and setup link arms, but with the two separate beams, are there any tricks to mocking up extended radius arms. Anything special that needs to be done other then center the beams where they should be and measure? I figure I’ll use the section of the stock arms that attaches to the beams and then build from there.
Click to expand...
Center mounts will dictate centering. Then square them with the frame. You’re dealing with rubber bushings so everything is going to walk a little unless you go with rod ends. I suggest rebuildable if you do. Like a Jonny joint.
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
I was reading through this thread last night. Gotta say, a ton of good info in here and I can't believe I've missed it until now. Probably because I'm about to embark on a TTB journey of my own.
I am planning on buying the Thread Motorsports WIY cut and turn beam, plating, and uniball kit.
I have two questions prior to ordering. 1: What size should I go to run 37's and be able to keep my stock fenders? I'm leaning 2" extension. Is that the limit? 2: This will be mainly a trail rig, little rock crawling, and some minimal go fast. Is the stability and travel of the 2" extension worth it? Or better to leave it stock length?
I will be running re-centered H1 24 bolt wheels with 5 lug centers, so I can set the backspace where I need to, to stuff into the fenders.
Click to expand...
No hummer wheels :P.
Push that **** out! TTB tucks look so damn good with bubble fenders and +4 per side
 
welndmn said:
No hummer wheels :P.
Push that **** out! TTB tucks look so damn good with bubble fenders and +4 per side
Click to expand...
Oh, I know, and agree on the look. This bronco is in such good condition I want to keep it looking fairly original. I kinda regret what I did to my 66 crawler, how I cut it up, etc, trying to not do the same with this 96. If I get the opportunity to build another one that is balls out, I'd definitely go wider on the front.
I may not keep the hummer wheels forever, but it's a cheap way to get it built to start. I already have the wheels. Centers and 37" BFG's are cheap. I can always sell them down the road. This will be a family weekend cruiser, maybe camp out of, etc.
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
You're saying the consensus is extending the beams 1.5", or push forward 1.5"?
Haven't seen much on the pushing forward. I'm guessing its done with radius arm adjustment and mount placement?
Click to expand...

1.5" over is all you can do with keeping the stock fenders.

yes radius arm mount placement will dictate wheelbase adjustment if you are using a mass produced radius arm.
 
mobil1syn said:
1.5" over is all you can do with keeping the stock fenders.

yes radius arm mount placement will dictate wheelbase adjustment if you are using a mass produced radius arm.
Click to expand...
I bought the Threat WIY High Ground Clearance radius arms. I'd have to guess they are a standard length. I currently have a lift on the bronco with after market raduis arms. I'm just going to have to dig into it to figure out mounting etc. I think my current lift is Rancho, Super Lift, or Skyjacker. It was on it when I bought it. I'm going to start a build thread. I'll post pics of how it starts out.
The other thing I need to confirm is what the current beam mount brackets are. Stock height, 2", etc. They are fabricated, not oem, but unsure on if they are any drop or not.
 
mobil1syn said:
you wont be able to tuck stock fenders without cutting them to make room for a 37. 1.5” per side is the general consensus with a 35 keeping the stock fender intact.

buddy has adtermarket wheels and kisses fender with a desolate kit. other buddy has OEM alcoas and has no issues. when i build mine i cleared 35s, no trimming, but pushed the front forward ~1-1.5” typically people have issues getting into the heater box but i was good.
Click to expand...
Any issues with steering when you pushed the beams forward?

Also, curious what people are doing for sway bars on the front if they are keeping one at all. The stock one rubs the tires really bad on mine.
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
Oh, I know, and agree on the look. This bronco is in such good condition I want to keep it looking fairly original. I kinda regret what I did to my 66 crawler, how I cut it up, etc, trying to not do the same with this 96. If I get the opportunity to build another one that is balls out, I'd definitely go wider on the front.
I may not keep the hummer wheels forever, but it's a cheap way to get it built to start. I already have the wheels. Centers and 37" BFG's are cheap. I can always sell them down the road. This will be a family weekend cruiser, maybe camp out of, etc.
Click to expand...
Ha! For sure I could be a millionare with the amount of early and fullszie broncos I have cut and ruined or recycled at the scrap yard.
I get over it, I will cut up more. That being said, I also want a stock old man 94-96 to daily as well.
 
Yeah sometimes i feel bad bashing up my 88 just because the big broncos are starting to get collectible. But then i get out on the trail again and realize its fun :laughing: I do have the 96 as my DD though and that one i have no desire to take offroad, but ive also learned over the years its physically impossible for me to own a vehicle and not modify it :laughing:
 
welndmn said:
Ha! For sure I could be a millionare with the amount of early and fullszie broncos I have cut and ruined or recycled at the scrap yard.
I get over it, I will cut up more. That being said, I also want a stock old man 94-96 to daily as well.
Click to expand...
ocfab.com

John Sr's '93 Ford Bronco

A “sleeper” style build for John Richer Sr. running our line of bolt on products, this is a great way to build a very capable prerunner without the added down time and costs of a full build. Owner: John Richer Vehicle: 1993 Ford Bronco Builder: Richer Racing Fiberglass: stock Engine: 5.8 351w...
ocfab.com
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LScout800 said:
Any issues with steering when you pushed the beams forward?
Click to expand...

willis_racing did 1.5-2" front stretch no issues. Here's his thread: Build - 1985 Bronco - Kronk the Bronc

I did 1" in my Bronco II also no issues. In both our cases, the location of the driver side beam pivot and clearance to the passenger intermediate axle shaft is what limits the front stretch.

Also, as Mobil1syn said, ditch the sway bar.
 
Bottom it and cycle the steering. You'll find out pretty quick where to mount the radius arms. Also, clearance the cross member on the D side so it gets the same uptravel as the P side. If you're not aiming for a lot of lift, just move the lower BJ out 1/2". This will get it to align with up to 4" of lift. This also keeps the axle more in line with the diff with big eccentrics.
 

Thread '1995 DD F-150 Prelander Build'

OK 1995 ford f150 5.8 4x4. "Mild" build compared to me other 1968 f250 prerunner. Using some parts I had in my inventory for future builds in king coilovers fox air bumps heims etc. Truck is going to Stock width stock body. 35" tires. Cut and turned beams 5.13 gears king 2.5 coilovers front with fox air bumps wjth 5/8" studs to match rear axle. Rear is going to have a 9in with 5.13 gears 5/8" studs that I'll swapped in that i acquired in trade to @the_fablab_ for the awesome explorer he's building thay i had for sale. Also got a 5.13 front diff from him as well in trade. At the leduc...
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