Tom's 79' SSII @woodbinebeastssii time for Tons!

[Winchested]

1.75” is what I am planning for my cage. I think it should be plenty strong.

Ya, I think you're right. It's not like this is a buggy that's racing and planning on rolling lol.

These are supposedly will bend up to 180 wall tube according to their site however it doesn't state what tube sizes it can do to 180... E-Z bend 90 Tubing Bender | Gray Machine and Welding

But I think even if I do 135 wall for main hoops and 120 for everything else I should be good as I plan on tying it into frame at the mid (main hoop) and rear. Front is plate legs already tied into the frame via body mount bolts.


My issue is being near 5500-6k lbs before cage....

But I think for the crawling I do a 1.75" cage will be more than enough for a low speed rollover especially if tied into frame.

 

[Snoop dogg]

Bought a EZ-bend bender today with 4 dies and a 8 ton ram, 20t porta power jack.

Should be fun to learn how to use this old school style bender. I'm open for any advice.

Edit: 1, 1.25, 1.5 and 1.75" dies. he told me it was the 2" die set. frig that was the whole point i bought it.

Might keep it for doing sliders and shit.

For what it's worth my buddy used that style bender, we bent some tube and this was back in early 2000s. Still running that cage.

You'll be fine with 1.75 with property geometry and tie ins/gussets.

Your build rocks, you seen to make quick progress.

 

[Winchested]

For what it's worth my buddy used that style bender, we bent some tube and this was back in early 2000s. Still running that cage.

You'll be fine with 1.75 with property geometry and tie ins/gussets.

Your build rocks, you seen to make quick progress.

Thanks for the good words! And the insight on the cage.

 

[Winchested]

Got my engine swap all complete. Still need to do shifters, exhaust and driveshafts.

Shifters were ordered from JB a few weeks ago. Haven't heard shit, going to send an email an ask on ETA. Driveshafts were ordered from Adams with yokes and flanges.
Shipping those to Port Huron, MI.
Now that I can finally cross the border again I'll make the trip to pick up expensive shit there. Still amazes me in the US you guys get near free shipping across the lower 48.!

Exhauat I'm just going to go with a Walker dual 2.5 into one 3". Quiet Flow 21533.

Had dual flow master 50s on my old exhaust and honestly just too fucking loud.

I don't know how these race drivers and buggy drivers handle loud open exhausts all day the drone just gets too me and gives me a big headache. After driving to and from trails over an hour I need hearing plugs in otherwise I get mega headaches.

So new quiet exhaust is the plan as I'll be doing more 4-5 hours drives to and from the trails.

 

[chaplinfj60]

i am with you on the quiet exhaust.

 

[Winchested]

Well the nice customs officer Michigan let me cross without your needed fucking vax bullshit so I was able to get my driveshafts, and shifters from the shipping depot.

Now all I need to do is an exhaust and I'm ready to rock for the spring!

 

[Winchested]

Working with Jon at JB custom. Working on a solution for the way the doubler shifter cable mounts as the original way for his other style won't work.

Must be due to it being a figure 8 pattern and how NWF clocked the figure 8 pattern into it which puts the shifter at like 10-11 o clock rather than in the side.

So he's thinking we should be able to use the mount he has for the Ford Case to line it up.

 

[Winchested]

Finally got the engine fired up.

 

[Winchested]

Got the JB fab shifters all finalized today. Jon was kind enough to send me a different bracket for the ecobox shifter as the one he normally supplies would not work with the way the newer 205 ecobox is clocked for the gm/dodge fig 8 pattern 205s. However the bracket he has for the Ford 205 works perfect. Stand up guy to work with.

I did have to bend the front shifter tab at the tcase rail for it to better Line up with the rear mount but that took all of 5 min.

 

[Winchested]

So I got the rig now moving under its own power once again.

Need to sort out the exhaust but can't do much till the muffler shows up so I can get the tubing all lined up. But trans goes on gear no issues there. Can shift through all the tcase gears.

 

[chaplinfj60]

is this for the venting to a catch can?

 

[Winchested]

is this for the venting to a catch can?

Yes, I had to reroute it however because the shifter bracket hit it when I jacked the trans back up. I need to do a 2" body lift, the 1.5" doesn't cut it. That extra 1/2" clearance under the trans tunnel would be perfect.

Also makes it easier to fill it as I can just pull the top of the sight tube and push oil in through it.

 

[Winchested]

Shifters top side.

 

[chaplinfj60]

that sure is clean looking

 

[crazy4ih]

Very nice. I wish I had more time and money to work on mine. Jealous.

 

[Winchested]

that sure is clean looking

Thanks, the flush mount option is great, but you need 4"+ clearance under the tunnel... Mines real tight just barely touches the 90 deg fitting off the top of the doubler. I'm sure one of them will wear them selves in lol.

If I had just 1/2" more clearance with my garage door I could put the 2" body lift in. I've got them old shit 1 piece steel doors. Need a roll up put in.

 

[tsm1mt]

So you need some suck-down winches on the axles - not just to manage your center-of-gravity, but to clear the garage door..

 

[Winchested]

So you need some suck-down winches on the axles - not just to manage your center-of-gravity, but to clear the garage door..

Haha ya, working on the suck down for the front. No clue where I'd put a rear one lol.

 

[Winchested]

Exhaust 3/4 done, all done to the muffler. Vbands wouldn't fit so just went with 2 stainless butt and lap joint bands on each 2.5" tube into the muffler.

Its nice, and quiet. The muffler necks down to 2" inside which is kind of gay but the noise level is worth it I spose.

Need to figure out the 3" routing to the back. I think I want to dump it to the side rather than the back.

I know way back IH did that to prevent the exuaust getting sucked into the tailgate area.

Oh and picked up a pretty dang solid 87 Daytona Shelby Z for my 15 year old daughter. I started back in like 03 with a 91 ES 2.5, then got a 88 shelby Z, 90 ES then an 86 Turbo Z. Turbo Z was my favorite but a 3 Year only car is friggen hard to find these days.

Nice thing is its a sunroof car not a T top so the floors are still intact.

 

[Winchested]

Had some issues with TAC module, follow this thread for details. New pedal seems to have solved it.

Anyone had the P1125 code? Accel pedal code.

Just did a swap with 05 drive by wire 5.3L. Getting this code that popped up, P1125. Only came up after engine got warm. Killed the pedal completely and then after clearing it the pedal was inconsistent and the engine idle was shit. Idles completely fine cold and had great throttle response...

irate4x4.com

Ordered 3" 409 stainless exhaust tube to finish out my exhaust.

 

[tsm1mt]

On your exhaust crossover under the oil pan - give some thought to some exhaust / header wrap.

Mine goes under the T19, near where the factory mounting boss is.

It works fine, but I've found that towards the end of a long day of wheeling, my rebuilt T19 doesn't want to stay in 2nd gear any more.

It's possible I screwed up the rebuild (more than I already fixed), but my other theory is that the T19 oil gets thin from the heat being dumped into it by the exhaust "right there"

I put header wrap around that section last month, and this weekend will be my first run with the wrap in place, so we'll see if it makes a difference.

In your case, it'd be engine oil soaking up the exhaust heat, so you might not notice it as much as I did with my shifting, but header wrap is cheap.

.. I used to have a Chrysler Lazer. Waste gate modified so it'd run 14lbs of boost, but the factory fuel cut off still engaged at 15, which scared the heck out of me the first few times until I learned to hold it at 14lbs.

it was retired after I broke some rings and the smoke screen got too bad - still worked great under boost, but struggled off-idle, and don't you dare open the sunroof under boost at that point..

I probably should've let it warm up more before standing on it..

 

[Winchested]

Thanks Tom I'll look into getting some wrap. The cast iron T19 prob heat soaks faster than an aluminum oil pan but better safe then sorry.

Nice, my old 86 Turbo Z was redone with later 88T2 stuff and I ran a socketed LM custom tuned. Ran innovative wideband O2 sensor gauge to monitor, walbro 255, bigger injectors, was running round 18lbs. (3 bar map).

Forgot most of what I did back then however.

This one were just going to keep tame for awhile as she's learning how to drive aside from adding a Blow off.

 

[Winchested]

So finally got it out for a rip today! After I put the Poly trans mount in.

The clutch is very noisy, like notchy, almost sounds like it rubs on something. Does it when you let clutch out quick or notice more down shifting.

Nice thing is my rebuild on the trans was great! Shifts awesome through all 5 gears.

My speedo was way to slow by 20-25%.

Dropped the skid plate again, to put in my 1.2666 ratio box for the speedo.

Thought I had a wacko output play issue on the NP205 but turns out its normal as they don't have tapered bearings but ball roller bearings so any slop in the bearing shows up on the output, not there when driven as the gears force it square. (1/32 or less of up/ down play) after doing some reading it's absolutely normal on these tcases.

Did get a code for a knock sensor but it cleared.

The rear 02 sensors are throwing codes and my tuner was supposed to have deleted those as I don't have any.

The drivetrain has a lot more clunky (gears in the trans and tcases) noise.

The clutch pedal is pretty heavy.

It will take some getting used to.

But already that OD gear is Nice!

Ill need someone else to kinda pop the clutch while I'm under it watching and listening for where the clanky noise is coming from.

With my fuel tank full my (filled completely for first time) gauge is 1/8th shy of Full. But I'll take that rather than showing overfill like the poly tank did.

 

[Winchested]

Ordered the 2" die from Gray tool and Machine for my Ez Bender fucking gay pricing due to exchange and duty. Will be near $650 by the time I get it in canuckistan. But I'll have it forever.

Going to make a thread in the general about cage layout for this scout.

 

[Winchested]

heres my ideas for 8 pt cage

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Seems like a reasonable plan.

 

[chaplinfj60]

We will to you have 4 sticks bent and tell you it’s all bad. 😂😂😂😂

joking. Triangles and you have them. the video posted in roll cage failure of the TT that barrel rolled and no failures is a very nice vid of explaining the whys of the design

 

[tsm1mt]

heres my ideas for 8 pt cage

IMO, delete the C pillar cross bar and just stick with the D (now C) at the rear of the cage.

I was going to do just like that, but remember the hardtop tapers in at the top, so by the time you bring that in, it's not that far from the backseat - and if you put the bar you want above the backseat, tall people WILL hit their heads on it - and you can't move it forward without making it silly to have the B hoop, and if you bring it back to avoid someone's head moving forward/backwards, you're pretty much at the top/rear of the hardtop.

I had planned a crossbar like you have.

Just imagine a grownup with their head moving about.

So instead, I added this rear hoop to come to the top corner of the hardtop.

 

[Winchested]

IMO, delete the C pillar cross bar and just stick with the D (now C) at the rear of the cage.

I was going to do just like that, but remember the hardtop tapers in at the top, so by the time you bring that in, it's not that far from the backseat - and if you put the bar you want above the backseat, tall people WILL hit their heads on it - and you can't move it forward without making it silly to have the B hoop, and if you bring it back to avoid someone's head moving forward/backwards, you're pretty much at the top/rear of the hardtop.

I had planned a crossbar like you have.

Just imagine a grownup with their head moving about.

So instead, I added this rear hoop to come to the top corner of the hardtop.

Thanks Tom.

Ill never have a hard top on, body is too jacked up for that. I'm planning on bringing the cage up higher than the windshield frame by 1/2" and then level all the way back, it will be at or just below the level of the soft top cross bars. The rear D pillar will have enough angle that the soft top cross bar can still drop out of the way .

I see what you're getting at with the C pillar top horizontal. I'll have to do a fit test with my kids back there (rarely if ever have an adult sit there).

 

[tsm1mt]

I wondered if it would "never" see a hardtop again. On my old Scout, I had to use a porta-power to get the tub to fit the hardtop..

I also wondered if you ever used the backseat of it was just storage. :D

Just wanted to give you pause - not much else to criticize of your plan except to make sure the two front-to-back bars in the front center clear your head, too. Makes a good place to mount a 2-way radio, ideally between the rails, but again - it can get close to your head.


Those two girls in the backseat? One is driving, the other will be within a year.

Darn kids grow up to become adults - but they're still (for now) in the backseat - I was planning ahead for that.


But reality with my suspension seats up front, you're right - "big" adults are not getting back there very easily / often.