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Tom's 79' SSII @woodbinebeastssii time for Tons!

ca.tmrcustoms.com

Transfer Case Support Kit - NP205

Looking for a NP205 Transfer case support kit? TMR Customs has what your looking for and more! Check our online store today.
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Courtesy of TMR
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i may have mis understood what ord told me on the phone and that rear support was not needed. again i may have mis understood.. interesting..

just use this wild because its alot of weight i think. very cool set up by the way.
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chaplinfj60 said:
i may have mis understood what ord told me on the phone and that rear support was not needed. again i may have mis understood.. interesting..

just use this wild because its alot of weight i think. very cool set up by the way.
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Yes ORD uses a doubler mounted mount. NWF doesn't have a standard NP205 or ecobox mount, they only offer a custom mount that works on their billet Np205 bearing retainer.

130+ lbs hanging from the cast NV4500 housing doesn't give me the warm and fuzzies when wheeling hard.

The stock alum casting was cracked with only a light Np241 behind it.
 
Well last wheeling trip of the year ripped my ram assist mount off the axle, my fault never really braced it horizontally in the direction of travel. So now I've fixed it up added some plate to box it and brought the bottom to the axle tube.

Got stuck for 2 hours due to an enduro motocross race (I was sposed to be off the trail by 3pm) obviously when it broke that didn't happen. Was fun to watch a bunch of guys eat shit on rock climbs on their bikes!
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Then got home and immediately started pulling the engine for the LS swap. Out with the 60+ year old technology (she's got so much blow by on deceleration, it stinks so bad)

2 days in and engine bay is empty.

Ready to cut brackets off, remove the 2.25" exhaust.
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Engine got mocked up today and all trans and engine mounts burned in!

Phone was in house so forgot pics other than engine hanging from hoist in engine bay.

Also cut off and and remounted my shock mounts because I moved the axle forward and they were nowhere near centered in the mount.
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Engine and trans are in and mounted, able to use the stock clutch fan because I mounted the engine higher than most would in a Scout. With body lift I had the clearance. This gives me tons of diff clearance and keeps my trans above bottom of frame.
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Newest quest to figure out, how the fuck to get the doubler and 205 in.... Fuck me it weighs more than double the Dana 300.

Already had one strap break and dropped it a few inches lol....

Going to try getting a couple real rigging straps from work.

Was using my engine hoist in the middle of rig to pull it up while balancing with the floor jack...

Didn't work well enough....

I figure if I just choke it from the doubler again I can fanangle that bitch in there... Or I need to invest in a proper trans jack.
 
I just grabbed the one that mounts to the top of a floor jack with removable saddle and bolts in.
 
Trans jack is how I do the 205.

I put the doubler in by hand, that's light enough, then balance the 205 on the trans jack, strapped, and mate if to the doubler.
 
Can't do that with the eco-205 since it's bolted to the 205 from the inside. But going to try again Friday with this new jack attachment. Stuck working til then.
 
Lol. I have an ecobox and 205. Yes you can. The ecobox unbolts from the 205 adapter with six studs/nuts.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Lol. I have an ecobox and 205. Yes you can. The ecobox unbolts from the 205 adapter with six studs/nuts.
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Mine is not a 6 bolt 205 it's a Dodge figure 8 pattern, bolts from the inside.
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The adapter is integrated in your case, interesting. My 205 is also a figure 8, but has an adapter (from NWF, for this specific application) to go to 6 bolt round (that bolts from the inside), then the ecobox is bolted on with six studs.

Must be an updated design. TIL.
 
Ah must be, they did say it was shorter now.

Anyhow I got it mocked up tcase hangs a li'l lower than I wanted (1.5" below frame) that was after clocking it up 2 holes as far as NWF says to go. Not sure if I rotated the whole front half of the housing if it would allow another hole worth of rotation?


I have about another 1" I could potentially come up on the pass side before I'm hitting body.


1.5" isn't bad as I plan on making a full belly skid and I'd just cut out around that spot and drop that section down and weld it all back up.

That trans jack attachment is a pain in the Dick to set up but managed. Had to modify my jack to be able to bolt it on.
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Yep can't clock it anymore due to Chevy's 1 odd ball center to center distance on the 6 bolt pattern.

Final resting place is 1.25" below frame. Shimmed trans up 1/4".
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Winchested said:
Yep can't clock it anymore due to Chevy's 1 odd ball center to center distance on the 6 bolt pattern.

Final resting place is 1.25" below frame. Shimmed trans up 1/4".
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Did you get a clocking ring? I have one for my scout between my nv3500 and np241. Let me clock my T-case to be above the frame without raising the drivetrain. Surprised since I thought ecoboxes had clocking adjustment built in.
 
LScout800 said:
Did you get a clocking ring? I have one for my scout between my nv3500 and np241. Let me clock my T-case to be above the frame without raising the drivetrain. Surprised since I thought ecoboxes had clocking adjustment built in.
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They do have it built in but it's only clickable 2 holes up from center or two holes down from center.

I'm clocked as high as I can be. (the 2 holes up from center)

205 is quite a bit bigger than the 241. And if I didn't have the doubler it would be above the bottom of frame.

I'm happy where it is as I've only got an inch of clearance above the top of case on the output end to put the JB custom Fab shifter linkages in so it will be tight.

If my garage was 3/4" taller at the door I'd put a 2" body lift in instead of the 1.5" for that extra we bit of clearance
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So got my shafts measured today.

Looks like I may be able to run same shaft length front and rear. Front however has to be a long travel due to my reverse shackle.

Adams built me a long travel front shaft that was great, other than that blue plastic shit blowing out of the splines.

It had a 6-7" spline so im going to get them to make another in the 1350 variety.

Need a 1350 yoke for the Dana 60 front and 2 1350 CV flanges for the tcase.

Email is out to Adams yet again to see what they can do for me.

The fronts a li'l fucky, 6 degrees up at tcase and 18 degrees up at diff. I can't really change my diff without going to like 10 degrees of caster if I put 4 degree shims in to rotate the pinion back down (I cut and turned the Dana 60 to 6 degrees and 18 degree pinion for the old tcase.) now with a longer shaft I don't need so much pinion angle so hoping it will work out.


Both are 33 to 33.25" long rear measured with 1350 pinion 1410 tcase yoke.

Front measured with 1310 pinion and 1350 dodge 4 bolt 3.125" pilot flange at tcase
 
Some more work finished today.

Got the Serpentine system complete!

Turns out a PS pulley from an 87-95 3rg gen camaro/ bird or S10/S15 V6 2.8, 3.1, 3.4 is the perfect pulley to use. I went and found a guy bout an hour away parting out about 30 3rd Gen's. Got it for $50. Will send the wrong amazon one back.

Unfortunately no aftermarket ones are being made for this pulley size and bore/ offset so sourcing from the JY is ideal. This allows me to use the PSC pump and keep the steering power/flow close to how it was on the 345.

PSC wanted me to buy their 5.75" pulley at $150 by the Time I got it to Canada from PSC. (it is aluminum but meh.) I wanted a 5.5"

Also got the tcase crossmember and TMR mount all sorted and welded in!

Turned out awesome.

Debating ordering the energy suspensions NV4500 poly mount instead of using the HD rubber mount. Will see how it feels after driving a bit.
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Built a full belly skid out of 3/16" plate. Still need make a drop down plate/ gusset to protect the 205. Tying in my old oil pan skid plate too it as well.
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Bought a EZ-bend bender today with 4 dies and a 8 ton ram, 20t porta power jack.

Should be fun to learn how to use this old school style bender. I'm open for any advice.

Edit: 1, 1.25, 1.5 and 1.75" dies. he told me it was the 2" die set. frig that was the whole point i bought it.

Might keep it for doing sliders and shit.
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1.75” is what I am planning for my cage. I think it should be plenty strong.
 
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