Tom's 79' SSII @woodbinebeastssii time for Tons!

[McBastard79]

What's more streamlined? Glass pack cherries? It's too loud already lol. But ya when the engine swap happens I'll go to single 3" likely drivers side.

Something like this. Several manufacturers make smaller mufflers for tight spots.

 

[McBastard79]

More measurements below. I can’t send a link, just updated to ios 15.5, and it fucking sucks balls..

 

[Snoop dogg]

You can find a smaller muffler on summit as well. The mobile version to search I can't seem to filter by the width/dia off muffler. But first filter under borla and this is what popped up. 5in dia round muffler , 3" in/out, stainless steel

Borla 40085 Borla XR-1 Racing Mufflers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Borla XR-1 Racing Mufflers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Mufflers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Also checked out your cage thread. Have you ordered from d and c recently?

I know there was some issues back in the 2000s, can't totally remember exactly...getting older. But I do remember that something soured with him/biz/customers. I'd just double check that all is good, inventory etc. I hope all is better over there, he was definitely building some cool shit back in the day.

Edit: I'd go with 2" .120. and connect to frame in as many spots if you can. I know you plan to keep your dash operable etc. But I'd connect to frame from b pillar back where you can. Triangulate and you'll be all good dude. I love scouts and yeah they're heavy but it's a trail rig.

 

[Winchested]

You can find a smaller muffler on summit as well. The mobile version to search I can't seem to filter by the width/dia off muffler. But first filter under borla and this is what popped up. 5in dia round muffler , 3" in/out, stainless steel

Borla 40085 Borla XR-1 Racing Mufflers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Borla XR-1 Racing Mufflers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Mufflers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Also checked out your cage thread. Have you ordered from d and c recently?

I know there was some issues back in the 2000s, can't totally remember exactly...getting older. But I do remember that something soured with him/biz/customers. I'd just double check that all is good, inventory etc. I hope all is better over there, he was definitely building some cool shit back in the day.

I have never ordered from them but, colt at bleepin' heep has been plugging them a lot lately.

 

[Snoop dogg]

I have never ordered from them but, colt at bleepin' heep has been plugging them a lot lately.

Right on. I was a bit of scout nut for 20 yrs. Just make sure all is good. It was a while ago now, and all might be have been good for years by now but he was always good to people that plugged him....if you catch my drift. Wouldn't want to see a real scout enthusiast get burned. Love the build dude!!

 

[Winchested]

Picked up the 5.3L LS tonight. 165k miles on it. Prob needs a reseal, might do head gaskets etc. Need to do some research.

Will drop the pan to look at the bottom end.

'05 LM7 5.3

Want to run only 87 octane cause I'm a cheap **** so only want mods that will keep me able to run that gas. Don't want a HP monster but more low end torque would be nice.

Very comparable to the Scouts 345. With orig 180-200 hp and 300 ft lb torque. However the Scouts torque is instantaneous in the bottom end.

Honestly, never even driven an LS gm. I'm a ford guy...

 

[Winchested]

Engine is coming along. Have the rebuild kit now for my NP205 likely going to attack that morrow.

Got info for harness reduction and ECM programming. $900-1000 cdn.

 

[Winchested]

Np205 3/4 complete, just waiting on the NWF input shaft to come with the doubler.

 

[Winchested]

Had a fuck of a time smashing my right rear shock shaft right into the body of it. Only had just shy of 2 3/4" of shock travel after pulling a leaf spring out so the prick could fit in my garage with the 40s on it...

Well it blew the seal so got a new one ordered. But I drilled new holes in my mounts 1.25" lower than before so I've got almost 4" of uptravel now. My bjmps are set at 2" of that travel but obviously weren't enough to stop them from bottoming out before hopefully the extra 1" helps.

Also got more of the new engine put together. Waiting of summit order to get here tomorrow before I put the pass side exhaust manifold on. (ordered truck manifold flanges, making these LS1 manifolds fit the truck flanges.)

Don't mind my laundry machine plugged into my welding outlet, laundry room/bath under reno lol. Washing machine outside hooked up to the yard hose too.

 

[Winchested]

The 5.3 is ready to drop in.

Spent all day under it adding the rear anti wrap leafs on the top of the pack. Will know in a couple weeks if it helps or not. Still want to add a suck down winch up front.

Fucked around with the fuel tank after that as I ran out of gas yesterday because my sending unit wasn't working. Found a loose wire on top. Fixed it all up now it's all good. Ps poly tanks for scouts fucking suck. But the only steel or alum tanks now are over $1k us which is kinda retarded. I mean there isn't much competition but still. Frig.

Wanted to wheel this weekend but needed to get all this junk done. Also rotating the 40s. In only say 2k-2.5k km the 40s have shrunk by 1/16"...

However did a 550k km drive before I ran out of fuel and was getting 12 MPG with the worn out ol 345 and gm tbi injection.

 

[Winchested]

Tested full potential of the suspension on the Rti ramp.

Kept going til I lost traction on the front axle. Rear was already 2" off the ground.

Front suspension leafs are fully inverted and stuffed against the drag link. Couldn't turn past the pitman arm if I wanted to.

Should have out boarded my rear shocks off the frame another few inches and I could have ran longer shocks in the rear. Currently running the 9.25" travel Bilsteins in the rear and that's limiting down Travel. (set up 4" up at ride height and 5.25" down).

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Were your shocks the limiting factor? Disconnect and retry?

 

[Winchested]

Were your shocks the limiting factor? Disconnect and retry?

I'd say the shocks yes had limited it, was fully extended. The pass side was completely stuffed into the fender in the back. Unfortunately it was a one day only event.

 

[ihpartsjeff]

Get rid of that crazy pitman arm and draglink setup and go back to a traditional TRE.

 

[Winchested]

What's crazy about it? It's Dana 60 high steer arm set up? Using your pitman arm from your high steer set up for the Dana 44.

All I did was weld it up with a plate to have it double shear for my heim joints? I've had zero issues at all with the heims.

Going back to a tie rod end would actually put my drag link in the exact same spot or potentially lower.

 

[ihpartsjeff]

What's crazy about it? It's Dana 60 high steer arm set up? Using your pitman arm from your high steer set up for the Dana 44.

All I did was weld it up with a plate to have it double shear for my heim joints? I've had zero issues at all with the heims.

Going back to a tie rod end would actually put my drag link in the exact same spot or potentially lower.

I just say that it looks crazy as it looks like it takes up a lot of room. Otherwise what you did looks solid so don't take it as me bashing your work. You could avoid pitman arm contact with the leafspring by going to a TRE. Going up a ramp, and wheeling, is different, and wheeling will put a lot more flex on your rig then what you currently see. Putting pressure on that pitman arm like that is going to eventually cause the steering box housing to break. Have seen it before and hate to see it again especially with how hard these Scout II boxes are getting to find.

 

[Winchested]

I just say that it looks crazy as it looks like it takes up a lot of room. Otherwise what you did looks solid so don't take it as me bashing your work. You could avoid pitman arm contact with the leafspring by going to a TRE. Going up a ramp, and wheeling, is different, and wheeling will put a lot more flex on your rig then what you currently see. Putting pressure on that pitman arm like that is going to eventually cause the steering box housing to break. Have seen it before and hate to see it again especially with how hard these Scout II boxes are getting to find.

I know you're not harping on me.

Get what you're saying that having a tie rod end there my bolt wouldn't hang down so far and I'd still possibly be able to steer. When that stuffed.

I've never been that stuffed off road anyhow, maybe im not that extreme. But this seemed the best way to get away from tie rod ends. Better yet I just need to get the leaf springs gone up front and it would be mint!

I don't Think i'd want to invert those springs much more than that anyhow.

 

[Winchested]

Oooh low low range just showed up today after 4 months!

 

[Winchested]

Built the doubler yesterday evening. Mounted to the 205 now. Not sealing the front half until I've got it test fitted for clocking it incase I have to rotate it by 1 full bolt hole to get my clocking right.

Also got the flywheel and clutch all installed.

 

[Winchested]

Got this Eco-205 all sorted out now and mocked up the TMR mount on the back. It seems with all the measuring I've done. I can litteraly fit it between the Scouts frame rails in almost exactly the same clocking as the Dana 300 that sits maybe 1/2" above the bottom of the frame rails. The NP205 bottom will sit likely flush with the bottom of frame and not need any frame clearancing on the pass side. Not enough room to run dual exhaust however. I still need to figure out what the heck to do for shifters, id like to stick with mechanical shifters but not mounted to the body, rather have em mounted to a bracket off the trans. But might just waste another 500 on a set of triple cable shifters from NWF.

1 more wheeling trip at the end of this month and then I start tear down before the snow flies. I want to have the engine/trans in and on new mounts/ cross members so I don't have to work outside in the snow. (scout barely fits in my garage).

 

[LScout800]

Got this Eco-205 all sorted out now and mocked up the TMR mount on the back. It seems with all the measuring I've done. I can litteraly fit it between the Scouts frame rails in almost exactly the same clocking as the Dana 300 that sits maybe 1/2" above the bottom of the frame rails. The NP205 bottom will sit likely flush with the bottom of frame and not need any frame clearancing on the pass side. Not enough room to run dual exhaust however. I still need to figure out what the heck to do for shifters, id like to stick with mechanical shifters but not mounted to the body, rather have em mounted to a bracket off the trans. But might just waste another 500 on a set of triple cable shifters from NWF.

1 more wheeling trip at the end of this month and then I start tear down before the snow flies. I want to have the engine/trans in and on new mounts/ cross members so I don't have to work outside in the snow. (scout barely fits in my garage).

What is the legnth of that whole setup from the mounting face of the eco-box to the rear output of the 205?

 

[Winchested]

What is the legnth of that whole setup from the mounting face of the eco-box to the rear output of the 205?

6 bolt flange of ecobox to end of 1410 yoke is 18 3/4" I'll be using a flange on the rear though so might be a hair shorter.

Overall length will be 12" longer than the IH 345/T19/D300.

 

[tsm1mt]

I know you're not harping on me.

Get what you're saying that having a tie rod end there my bolt wouldn't hang down so far and I'd still possibly be able to steer. When that stuffed.

I've never been that stuffed off road anyhow, maybe im not that extreme. But this seemed the best way to get away from tie rod ends. Better yet I just need to get the leaf springs gone up front and it would be mint!

I don't Think i'd want to invert those springs much more than that anyhow.

Just make sure you bump stop it so it isn't an issue when you're at full bump and try to turn through the spring.

(Or change it out, like Jeff said)

In the past, I've gone to a flat pitman arm and notched the frame for the draglink end because of the pinch of the leaf spring, and that was with a shorter/smaller TRE end.

That was SOA with 31s. With 42s, the bump stops were set to keep the pitman and spring in their respective corners AND help skeep the tires out of the body a bit (plus moving the axle forward and cutting and plating the corner of the firewall)

 

[Winchested]

Engine and trans are now mated!

Also ordered a DIY 30 gal steel fuel tank. It's all lazer cut and just weld it together.

Friend told me to weld it up with 0.25 wire or 0.30, do the whole inside first. Then, drill the top for a couple plug welds on the baffles.

Then weld the whole thing externally.

I'm sick of the shit poly tank I've got.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What company makes that DIY tank?

 

[Winchested]

What company makes that DIY tank?

Customscouts.com

New business out of Saskatchewan, Canada.

 

[Winchested]

Decided to change directions on the swap harness and just cut up the stock harness and make it work. Fuck paying $1100 for something I can do myself even if it takes me 2 months. I've got the time.

Going to follow Lt1swap.com and get it done!

Looks like I've got to swap the TCC wire for a a different pin and move that over to the clutch kill wire for Cruise.

The rest of it is pretty straight forward and just removing all the auto trans crap.

 

[Winchested]

Finished the harness wasn't too hard to build at all.

 

[tsm1mt]

Finished the harness wasn't too hard to build at all.

Well done.

Being colorblind, even weeding out TBI harnesses is a slower-than-it-should-be process with the ohm-meter. Makes me think every time I should just order a new harness.

 

[chaplinfj60]

Got this Eco-205 all sorted out now and mocked up the TMR mount on the back. It seems with all the measuring I've done. I can litteraly fit it between the Scouts frame rails in almost exactly the same clocking as the Dana 300 that sits maybe 1/2" above the bottom of the frame rails. The NP205 bottom will sit likely flush with the bottom of frame and not need any frame clearancing on the pass side. Not enough room to run dual exhaust however. I still need to figure out what the heck to do for shifters, id like to stick with mechanical shifters but not mounted to the body, rather have em mounted to a bracket off the trans. But might just waste another 500 on a set of triple cable shifters from NWF.

1 more wheeling trip at the end of this month and then I start tear down before the snow flies. I want to have the engine/trans in and on new mounts/ cross members so I don't have to work outside in the snow. (scout barely fits in my garage).

is that rear mount the u bolt looking one