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Tom's 79' SSII @woodbinebeastssii time for Tons!

Bonus, none of our whiskey from our Kentucky bourban Trail adventure in the trailer broke!
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My wild turkey and a bottle of Weller Wheated bourban from Buffalo trace safe!
 
ihpartsjeff said:
That really sucks man! Glad you guys weren't hurt. As with most mechanical things, shit happens, but shit can be fixed.
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Thanks Jeff. Ashley is pretty banged up tool a few days for the pain to really hit. Her whole right side is sore so she must have shifted right and hit the door panel.

But it's all going to live to wheel another day!

Might not tow the pop up down to Harvesters next year and just stay in the hotel.
 
Well day off, got back on the scout.

Both leaf springs are In.

Frame is def bent downward on the driver side.

You can see the about 3/8" difference in the shackle to frame distance.

The driver side is much closer.

But got the steering all sorted, straightened the steering ram in my press, straightened the tie rod in my press.

New pitman arm all welded up and in. Did the alignment, after tie rod straightening it was 1/4" toed out...

Now 1/8" toed in.

I need to mount the ram and fill steering. Take it for a quick drive round the block and see if the bent frame has any effect on how it tracks.

Might need to find a frame shop that can strap the whole thing down and then pull up hard on the driver side leaf fang. To pull it forward.

But getting there.

Drilled and tapped my spare steering box for steering assist and put the new end cap on it. (ended up costing me $100 as UPS charged me $35 for broker fees on a $30 part...)
 

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The drivers side spring less bronze/brass King pin bolt had backed off or compressed a bunch during impact. I originally thought the bottom bearing had blown but snugged up the bolts and set to 25-30 lbs pull. Seems fine.
 
I don't think you need a frame shop to straighten that out. I bent the frame of White Scout back in the day when an "oak tree got in my way". It bent just like yours did. We used a porta power to straighten it. One end against the fang and the other end under the frame near the front-mid body mount where we welded a temporary stop/block.
 
ihpartsjeff said:
I don't think you need a frame shop to straighten that out. I bent the frame of White Scout back in the day when an "oak tree got in my way". It bent just like yours did. We used a porta power to straighten it. One end against the fang and the other end under the frame near the front-mid body mount where we welded a temporary stop/block.
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Ah very cool Jeff! I will look into finding someone with a porta power ram set up.
 
Winchested said:
How long of a gusset/ block did you weld to the frame to take the load of the portapower against it?

Full width like 3" wide x 6" long welded to bottom of frame to press against?
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A piece of 3" angle iron, at least 1/4" thick and around 3" long. Add a couple gussets to it. Weld to bottom of frame.
 
Got the frame straight!

Shackle distance is now even and equal at 1" from frame.

Thanks to ihpartsjeff Jeff Ismail for the idea. Worked out perfect.

Hood even closes!
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Did some brake math...

My fronts are 1981 bendix DRW calipers. Piston diameter 86.4mm total effective area 272mm2.

My rears are 2005 GM SRW calipers. Piston diameter 59.89mm x 2 (dual piston) total effective area 376.3mm2.

So I'm effectively way more braking in the rear by 104mm2 which means more force in the rear.

Running the PV4 combo valve which is same pressure front and rear. With the 2005 GM hydroboost master cyl.

So effectively I have far too much rear brake bias.

Hoping the Will wood inline prop valve to rear solves this.

I should have done this math before I installed the updated 14 bolt...

The more I think about the accident the more I know it was my own fault predicated by this failure of mine to properly size the rear brakes. Or install a proper prop valve.

Thankfully it didn't end in misery. Live and learn.

PSA. When converting stuff to newer, do the math!
 
Well after installing the brake prop valve the brakes are now more lenient in the rear. I've got it threaded out 75% shoukd be around 45-50% less brake pressure to the rear. Took it for a drive yesterday and it seems good but might have a touch of bumpsteer.

Wonder if it's because the drag link is now about an inch higher at the pitman arm than the old one.

I can bump the drag link up at the steer arm an inch to compensate and flatten it out. If I feel the need.

But drove pretty good! Happy with it.

Last thing I need to do is pull the bumper back out, made two big slices with the zip disk and just going to put my 30 foot strap around it and pull back ward off a pole.
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On the "pull backwards against a pole" - use your winch and a snatchblock, and you'll have more control AND you can watch the bend as it happens.

On the adjustable proportioning valve - find a nice icy mountain road with some slope and curves in it - especially with a drop off - and you'll rapidly start fine tuning the brake bias, when the Scout won't slow down and the rear tries to pass the front because you have too much rear brake..

BTDT a few times - I dial down the rear brakes a bit after I clean my seat..

I like Jeff's porta-power fix.
 
tsm1mt said:
On the "pull backwards against a pole" - use your winch and a snatchblock, and you'll have more control AND you can watch the bend as it happens.

On the adjustable proportioning valve - find a nice icy mountain road with some slope and curves in it - especially with a drop off - and you'll rapidly start fine tuning the brake bias, when the Scout won't slow down and the rear tries to pass the front because you have too much rear brake..

BTDT a few times - I dial down the rear brakes a bit after I clean my seat..

I like Jeff's porta-power fix.
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Ill try the winch and snatch idea.


Thanks Tom!
 
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