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Tom's 79' SSII @woodbinebeastssii time for Tons!

chaplinfj60 said:
but you have to admit it is nice just jumping in and cracking it over and it pops off and purrs super easy.

the idle is a tricky one. at least i feel it is. with an auto to high of an idle and in low low the brakes are not enough, but normal operation they are. anyway good deal your out driving it around:beer:.
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Ya I could see it being an issue in an auto. Not an issue with the manual.

Under load of turning the steering it drops to 850. And in gear will drop it a bit.

Learning the lean codes on both banks code be a fuel pressure issue or MAF sensor so will double check those.


P. S. My old junk with efi was also a jump in and go deal. The T19 trans was smoother in an out of clutch but clunker to shift.
 
can you use the cheap scanners that work with your phone to read the codes or a regular scan tool. if so that cool beans.
 
I had to put a few hundred miles on my 5.3 before it started running like it should. It was super rich and kept throwing codes for bad O2 sensors since they kept getting clogged with carbon. The computer eventually learned and gets about 15-16 mpg cruising around town and runs good now. I also have 37's, a lighter rig, and 4.10's, so that probably improves it some.

You know if you put links and coilover under this it will solve all your problems.
 
LScout800 said:
I had to put a few hundred miles on my 5.3 before it started running like it should. It was super rich and kept throwing codes for bad O2 sensors since they kept getting clogged with carbon. The computer eventually learned and gets about 15-16 mpg cruising around town and runs good now. I also have 37's, a lighter rig, and 4.10's, so that probably improves it some.

You know if you put links and coilover under this it will solve all your problems.
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Hahaha


I'm going old school Jeep J20 springs or GM 2" lift springs up front need to smooth that ride out some.

Hopefully it gets better with some miles.

About 500km so far.
 
Well scaled the fat pig today and it scaled at 6790 lb with my wife, myself and a bunch of toolsz, junk etc. So taking 500 lbs off for a total of

6290lbs +/- 50 or so....

So well over the GVWR of 6200 when loaded... Haha. Mind you that's on dana 44s. With 1 extra leaf in each pack.


Latest MPG was 13.1 US MPG. So only 2 to 2.5 mpg less than. My 2011 F150 Ecoboost on 34's.
 
Winchested said:
Well scaled the fat pig today and it scaled at 6790 lb with my wife, myself and a bunch of toolsz, junk etc. So taking 500 lbs off for a total of

6290lbs +/- 50 or so....

So well over the GVWR of 6200 when loaded... Haha. Mind you that's on dana 44s. With 1 extra leaf in each pack.


Latest MPG was 13.1 US MPG. So only 2 to 2.5 mpg less than. My 2011 F150 Ecoboost on 34's.
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That is a fat pig, hoping I can get mine under 6K.
Taken the new swap wheeling yet? Pretty curious how it compares to the 345.
 
LScout800 said:
That is a fat pig, hoping I can get mine under 6K.
Taken the new swap wheeling yet? Pretty curious how it compares to the 345.
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Driving up to the Hydrocut rock paradise on Thursday after work 4.5 hour drive. Should get there by midnight! Will let you know. I'm 100% sure it's got way less low end torque than the 345. I don't give a hoot what the graphs say.

I'm thinking next year it's getting cammed with new lifters and trunion rockers. I'd assume after that it will need a custom dyno tune. Or just build a 6.2 or 6.0...

Its flat as fuck in 5th gear. Pretty much downshift back to 3rd to get back in the power band. Whereas the 345 was always in the power and from 1k-3.5k rpm.

The 5.3 wants to be far more revd out.
 
Had a fun weekend wheeling.

But I did break the suck down winch cable... Good thing the cable is only 15.bucks and I can cut it down into 10 ft sections lol. Wasn't paying attention to the load noise of the winch had the stereo cranked.

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Today's work was, tire rotation, redo the toe alignment, and reposition the driver seat 2" to the pass side. Oh and put that factor 55 Fid tool to work on the suck down winch as I snapped the 5/16 synthetic line. Think I left it too tight. Think I need to replace it with 5/16 wire rope.

Set toe on the tie rod to 1/16-1/8".

Tie rod has a bit of bend to it due to hangin on a rock lol. 1/8th bend or so.

Got rid of the shit 5mm line on the front arb that I melted last trip out. Replaced with the 6mm nylon and tested perfect.

Replaced H4 headlights with the cheap LED SUP amazon headlights.
 

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So did a hydroboost swap. With the corvette master I had with the stock vac booster I'm not happy with the HB at all way too sensitive. Tons of brake power but no real pedal feel.

Swapped in a 1.25" master tonight.

Vanco sells a standard gm 1.312 master with their Jeep 1 ton swap kits.

If the 1.25 doesn't feel any better I'll go bigger.

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We did HB in dad's scout and I remember having a similar complaint: stopped great, but the feel was too sudden and on/off. Think we did the Astrovan swap at that time. it was, shit, 15 years ago now. I preferred driving mine with standard power booster setup. Hope you get the pedal feel you want

also watching since I'll be going HB on my 68' LS swap build, in some form to be determined
 
budget76 said:
We did HB in dad's scout and I remember having a similar complaint: stopped great, but the feel was too sudden and on/off. Think we did the Astrovan swap at that time. it was, shit, 15 years ago now. I preferred driving mine with standard power booster setup. Hope you get the pedal feel you want

also watching since I'll be going HB on my 68' LS swap build, in some form to be determined
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Ya with 40s and 1 tons the stock brake booster is shit too lol. Went with the corvette master after trying the 1.25" master. It got a bit better. No room to put in a 10" booster due to where my clutch master is. But if I don't get this to a point where I like it I'll be ordering the D&C extreme 10" booster set up and figure out how to make it fit.
 
Winchested said:
Ya with 40s and 1 tons the stock brake booster is shit too lol. Went with the corvette master after trying the 1.25" master. It got a bit better. No room to put in a 10" booster due to where my clutch master is. But if I don't get this to a point where I like it I'll be ordering the D&C extreme 10" booster set up and figure out how to make it fit.
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I have whatever booster/master that came in a 2004 3/4 ton silverado. Figured it was set up for front/rear disks from the factory and used the same power steering pump as my 5.3 (truck had a 6.0 in it). Has good pedal feel, and will lock up the tires if I smash the brakes. Only issue is if you are on the brakes and turning the stock pump will lag a little with the hydroassist but that is not a huge issue.
 
LScout800 said:
I have whatever booster/master that came in a 2004 3/4 ton silverado. Figured it was set up for front/rear disks from the factory and used the same power steering pump as my 5.3 (truck had a 6.0 in it). Has good pedal feel, and will lock up the tires if I smash the brakes. Only issue is if you are on the brakes and turning the stock pump will lag a little with the hydroassist but that is not a huge issue.
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pretty sure that's what I'll be doing. Booster/master out of the donor 2002 Escalade to pair with the 6.0 as long as it fits on the firewall nicely
 
LScout800 said:
I have whatever booster/master that came in a 2004 3/4 ton silverado. Figured it was set up for front/rear disks from the factory and used the same power steering pump as my 5.3 (truck had a 6.0 in it). Has good pedal feel, and will lock up the tires if I smash the brakes. Only issue is if you are on the brakes and turning the stock pump will lag a little with the hydroassist but that is not a huge issue.
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Ya, think I'll be buying the late model master to match it. This is getting retarded.

Here's what's happening now. I bleed the fuck out of it. And no matter what the rear Trips instantly when pressing the pedal. Pedal feel is a bit better with the 1.25" master when just the front brakes are working.

I'm thinking of just saying fuck the warning light spool and locking it out
 
Not much to add but our mid 80s 1 ton trucks with hydro boost will send you through the windshield when you tap the brakes. Kinda funny watching a new guy at work pull out the old 1 ton that has no idea.....

So I think the stock setup there isn't much feel.
 
Snoop dogg said:
Not much to add but our mid 80s 1 ton trucks with hydro boost will send you through the windshield when you tap the brakes. Kinda funny watching a new guy at work pull out the old 1 ton that has no idea.....

So I think the stock setup there isn't much feel.
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That is good to know thank you.
 
Sick of the useless parking brakes on the caddilac calipers. So building a late model 14 bolt with drum in hat parking brakes to replace it.

TMR shave plate welded in.
Tubes welded to the pumpkin.

Got to drop the skid plate to pull the driveshaft and mock up the TMR anti wrap kit.

These late model 14 bolts have a wider wms, so hopefully it don't make me wider in the back. I think it should match the front now.

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just to make sure i am understanding correct. there is a small drum in the rotor with pads that act as a parking brake. i have seen these before just never new what to call it. thnaks
 
chaplinfj60 said:
just to make sure i am understanding correct. there is a small drum in the rotor with pads that act as a parking brake. i have seen these before just never new what to call it. thnaks
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Yep you're correct. They use a 1/2 ton 2 piston front caliper as the rear caliper.
 
I cut some brackets off a late model 60 and used the brakes on my 14 bolt to convert it to disks with the in-hat parking brakes. The axle was out of an E-350 and had the same size tubes as a 14 bolt. They use a simple bracket that has 4 holes, I just cut off the stock 14 bolt drum ones off and welded the dana 60 ones on, all I did was bolt the calipers and rotor on and make sure it lined up properly before I welded it.. Let me keep the narrower width of the older 14 bolt. Those brackets were simple, it would not take much to measure and get your own cut out to use on the axle that is already in your scout, might save you some time swapping it and it looks like you can still sell the housing you shaved already. Pretty sure all the one ton stuff from that time uses the same parking brake, calipers, and brackets (Late 90's early 2000's).
 
That's interesting. There's zero right up's to doing that, you should be the one lol.

If I had a plasma that would be easier to cut off the bracket all the way around the tube.

The axle is already ready to drop out anyhow and I've already bought all the parts. So not a biggie. I'll sell this JB6 caddilac crap to someone else.
 
I don’t have much to add other than the lugnut4x4 calipers I got on my 14b swap I was finally able to dial in the parking brake cables to pull and stop the truck.
Before then, I had drum-hat/rotor setups in both the 44 and Landcruiser rear axle I had. The 44 brake worked great however had two independent cables pulling both shoes equally.
The LC was that wonky Toyota single cable to a Y setup and the driver side always did more of the pulling which in some situations offroad was downright scary.
My truck is manual so ya get used to relying on the eBrake as your 4th pedal.
Anyhow I should probably write up what I done after the last time I posted since you’re also talking about brakes.
I ended up going hydroboost with hydro assist in order to get any stopping. The 14b calipers are so damn large compared to previous rear calipers, the 1” bore just wasn’t cutting it. The brake would fade out and I had to downshift and pump to stop.
The large booster wasn’t an option either because I’d never be able to change a spark plug or coil again on #5.
I got the Hb from a savanna van that had iirc a 10b or gm12 I don’t rmbr what year late 90s maybe or early 00s.
the bore is 34mm iirc and short snout everything fits. Didn’t have to modify much except fab up a bracket for the ps pump.
You have more room with the IH though.
If I had to do it again, I’d probably go full hydro and HB from the start.
The stopping is way better.
 
lorenzo816 said:
I don’t have much to add other than the lugnut4x4 calipers I got on my 14b swap I was finally able to dial in the parking brake cables to pull and stop the truck.
Before then, I had drum-hat/rotor setups in both the 44 and Landcruiser rear axle I had. The 44 brake worked great however had two independent cables pulling both shoes equally.
The LC was that wonky Toyota single cable to a Y setup and the driver side always did more of the pulling which in some situations offroad was downright scary.
My truck is manual so ya get used to relying on the eBrake as your 4th pedal.
Anyhow I should probably write up what I done after the last time I posted since you’re also talking about brakes.
I ended up going hydroboost with hydro assist in order to get any stopping. The 14b calipers are so damn large compared to previous rear calipers, the 1” bore just wasn’t cutting it. The brake would fade out and I had to downshift and pump to stop.
The large booster wasn’t an option either because I’d never be able to change a spark plug or coil again on #5.
I got the Hb from a savanna van that had iirc a 10b or gm12 I don’t rmbr what year late 90s maybe or early 00s.
the bore is 34mm iirc and short snout everything fits. Didn’t have to modify much except fab up a bracket for the ps pump.
You have more room with the IH though.
If I had to do it again, I’d probably go full hydro and HB from the start.
The stopping is way better.
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I'm on hydroboost now. Will be swapping to the cast 1.325 (34 mm) master or the 1.445 (37mm) master when I put the rear brakes on. In the 00's trucks the 34 mm was used with vac brakes the 37 with hydroboost.
 
Rear axle coming along. But I fugged up and put the rear brake bracket studs in backwards so hubs have to come back off as there's no clearance for the brake shoes.

Trying to figure out parking brake cables using the shortest 1 ton ones avail.
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Winchested said:
Rear axle coming along. But I fugged up and put the rear brake bracket studs in backwards so hubs have to come back off as there's no clearance for the brake shoes.

Trying to figure out parking brake cables using the shortest 1 ton ones avail.
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You are a brave one with that rotor placement lol.

Although please post up what you find. I still need to add the e brake lines to mine...
 
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