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Tom's 79' SSII @woodbinebeastssii time for Tons!

Ordered the Amp distributing cast tail housing ($325) for my NV4500 and ordered the doubler from NWF ($1900) shipping to Canada sucks balls. That cast tail housing was only $139 US lol.


Kris at NWF says 16 week lead time on the doubler. Went with the bronze thrust washers.

Now I need to source a 5.3 or 6.0 to put in front of the NV4500.
 
Cleaned up the Scout, banged out a couple dents and repainted the areas and my cut wheel arches.

Good for another year of wheeling and cruising.
 

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Went and got a weigh slip for it today. Minus myself and all the junk in it rig weighs in 5800 +/- 50 lbs.
 
Finally got my brakes sorted out a lot better.

Originally had the Scout II master for the tons. Wasn't happy with output. Then went to a 1.25" K30 vacuum boost master. Wasn't happy. (lots of pedal but not enough pressure).

Have now settled on an 80s corvette master 1.125"

Less pedal but far more pressure and actually stop me on 40s on the road from 60 mph down. Will lock up too.

If I make another change it will be putting a GM truck 11" booster on for a bit more pressure. D&C extreme sells this setup with the corvette master but they want $500 US for the setup. The only thing proprietary is the main booster mount and an adjustable brake pedal rod.

I have a spare brake booster bracket I can modify to fit the bigger booster.

Might just order on, only $125 on rockauto.

My idea is to be able to stall it out in Low gear when braking but not sure if I need that when wheeling or not it is a 4 speed manual.
 
Before we upgraded (ruined kind of) it, Dad's SS2 looked VERY similar but much more mild. Awesome build, she looks great. And built exactly how we had the most fun with both of our scouts - SS2 inserts, half or no doors, top folded/off. Making me miss mine with these pics
 
budget76 said:
Before we upgraded (ruined kind of) it, Dad's SS2 looked VERY similar but much more mild. Awesome build, she looks great. And built exactly how we had the most fun with both of our scouts - SS2 inserts, half or no doors, top folded/off. Making me miss mine with these pics
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Thanks appreciate it!
 
So this past wheeling trip was fun. Had some issues.


The wheel hop is kinda getting out of hand.

Almost rolled the second time from wheel hop and then losing traction, going sideways.

So after doing a bunch of research on front wrap bars etc from the ol forum I've decided just to do a top anti wrap leaf up front and a full TMR ladder traction bar out back.

Its just way more exacerbated now with the 40's than it was on 35's.

Local spring shop is taking one of my old set of rear leafs that I cut down to 26". They're going to re-arch from 1 3/16" to 1/2" to closer match front springs and then rivet on a spring clamp (will be top down rather than bottom up) but should work fine. Only clamping the anti wrap leaf to the two top leaves.

Starting to look like a raisin Toyota too I keep hitting trees lol.

 
So not sure how the frig I can possibly mount an anti wrap bar in this mess...
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I'm wondering if I just do anti wrap top leafs in the back too. I'll just ned to find a set of old 2" springs for a Scout.

I could do anti wrap on the pass side if I move the muffler and go to a single. I planned on doing this when I do the engine/trans/transfercase swap but that's not til late this year, next year.

Does an anti wrap bar have to be as close to the pumpkin as possible or could it be run on the outside of the frame?
 
If you put a larger overload at the bottom of the leaf pack, you likely won't need an anti-wrap.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
If you put a larger overload at the bottom of the leaf pack, you likely won't need an anti-wrap.
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I used to have the XLC overload packs on there but they limited flex quite a bit. I went to a standard scout II pack plus one extra full main leaf, then when I put 40s on it it was too tall to fit in the garage so I took a short leaf out which dropped it by about 3/4"-1". My garage limits my ability to go higher.
 
Your spring perches look pretty high off the housing to me. Lower those and you'll have vertical room to fit an overload from a Chevy 63" pack, then your issue will be resolved.

IMHO anti-wraps are a band-aid and cause spring packs to wear out prematurely. They should be avoided.
 
I've got 2" springs Chevy stuff won't fit unless I cut everything off and start over. The spring perches are 8" TMR anti wrap stretch perches u bolt eliminators cant lower them.
 
Clearly the TMR "anti-wrap" perches aren't doing their job then are they, lol. If you have 2" wide springs then find some thick overloads that are 2" wide, or cut down chevy 63 overloads to 2" wide. If you have too much height to fit in your garage then you need to cut down your perches because you're gaining height unnecessarily there. All of these are solvable problems.
 
I agree. But if I put anti wrap leaves on top, I don't get any lift, still keep my flex and don't have to weld anything...

Its not like it's a daily driver and I'm worried about the springs failing. Heck the front springs are Atleast 43 years old still working just fine.
 
If you continue to wheel it, you'll worry about the springs failing (wearing out).

Let us know how the anti-wrap leaf on top works out. In my experience they don't work nearly as well as on the bottom.
 
Got the front anti wrap top leafs added in yesterday.

Turned out good. Doesn't look like it should limit flex too bad.

The spring shop owner said he could cut me a new set for the rear too. I'll likely go that route for now until I do my engine swap and have no exhaust in the way as I'll likely go from duals to a single 3".
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That's an anti wrap perch setup ? It looks nice and I'm no engineer but having a perch elevated high like those TMR does not seem like it would help and rather make things worse for axle wrap. I've always just had my perches notched so that it's as low to the axle tube.
 
Snoop dogg said:
That's an anti wrap perch setup ? It looks nice and I'm no engineer but having a perch elevated high like those TMR does not seem like it would help and rather make things worse for axle wrap. I've always just had my perches notched so that it's as low to the axle tube.
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They're the same height as the ruffstuffs, Barnes etc. They're all 8" long so it captures far more of the leaf spring than say stock 4" cast perches. Which leads to their anti wrap claim. I don't see it say 1 lower is going to prevent anymore wrap than it is currently.
 
Winchested said:
They're the same height as the ruffstuffs, Barnes etc. They're all 8" long so it captures far more of the leaf spring than say stock 4" cast perches. Which leads to their anti wrap claim. I don't see it say 1 lower is going to prevent anymore wrap than it is currently.
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I made my perches. Could just be I didn't have enough big boy parts to wrap the springs. Not apples to apples my setup was stock tbi350,465,208. Tons and 38s. I ran stock rear springs and waggy front springs. All I'm saying is I can't see the spring benefiting from being higher up above axle centerline, it just makes it a pivot point. And then you have to build a bar to prevent that from happening.

I believe Anti wrap bar will limit articulation, yea there are write ups and some nicely built anti wrap bars. Just my opinion.
 
Right now there is no room for an anti wrap bar so I'm going to try the extra 1/2 leaf on top. Only $100 bucks and easy swap. Plenty of guys have been happy with it in the past from old reading I've done on Toyota boards and the old site.
 
If the anti wrap leaf on top of the pack doesn’t work out. Why not get rid of those big ass mufflers for something more streamlined or smaller. Could even run single exhaust, like you mentioned for your motor swap. Just do it before hand.

Cool Scout, by the way
 
McBastard79 said:
If the anti wrap leaf on top of the pack doesn’t work out. Why not get rid of those big ass mufflers for something more streamlined or smaller. Could even run single exhaust, like you mentioned for your motor swap. Just do it before hand.

Cool Scout, by the way
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What's more streamlined? Glass pack cherries? It's too loud already lol. But ya when the engine swap happens I'll go to single 3" likely drivers side.
 
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