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Picked up this beast today. It is an interesting little tractor. Motor is a Wisconsin TJD 2 cylinder, very large and heavy. Shaft drive to a 2 speed hydrostatic rear. Has a dozer blade powered by a hydraulic ram with down pressure. The seat is comfortable and the gas can works pretty good where it is. Alternator needs some type of shield.

The Wisconsin has a lot of torque and pushes great, rpms don’t even drop. Gave $400 for it and it came with a truck load of parts. Going to clean it up a bit, new seat, etc.


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Think the engine in my tractor is on the way out. Was clipping pasture tonight and when I was finished she started blowing white smoke and when I idled down the oil light came on. Uh oh. Checked the oil and it's full. It spins pretty easy when starting and takes a couple seconds to catch. Doesn't sound right, like it's missing and when shutting it down it doesn't shut off immediately. It seems to "coast" like it's low compression. ☹️
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
Think the engine in my tractor is on the way out. Was clipping pasture tonight and when I was finished she started blowing white smoke and when I idled down the oil light came on. Uh oh. Checked the oil and it's full. It spins pretty easy when starting and takes a couple seconds to catch. Doesn't sound right, like it's missing and when shutting it down it doesn't shut off immediately. It seems to "coast" like it's low compression. ☹️
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did you get it hot, or did the air filter fall off?
 
i think i went too long between oil changes. :homer:

i had about 300 hours on this last oil change.. I knew when I changed it but hadn't really done the math on it. it was low a couple weeks ago and the light started flickering when it was idling. I had checked it and it was a quart low. turns out it the marks on the dipstick arent quart graduations. :homer:
I changed the oil and there was some silver tint to it but no flakes that I could see. that was about 8 engine hours ago. I was brush hogging pasture last night at Dad's. it's a pretty good load pulling that mower and I think it finally took it's toll.


Looks like I can do an in frame for about $600

John Deere 5400 Tractor Inframe Engine Kit (Diesel - 179 CID) - RP1197

John Deere 5400 Tractor Inframe Engine Kit (Diesel - 179 CID) - RP1197
www.jensales.com www.jensales.com
 
Finally had a chance to put the hydraulic auger to use with awesome results. The soil is the Carnuel NM area is decomposed granite with almost no moisture content which caused alot of issues the first time we tried to drill the holes. Sides of the hole were falling back into the faster than we could remove the soil until we saturated the soil with water. I should have taken some pictures of how dry the soil was but in the end we used a 275 gallon water tote to saturate the soil while I left the auger spinning in the hole. I think we used about 100 gallons between drilling the holes and watering the fast-set concrete for the two post we set. We set the 5.5in drill pipe 4 feet into the ground with roughly 3 ft above.

My house is about 3/4 mile downhill from this location. First hole took about 35 minutes with setup and second hole was 15 mins to finish. The soil in the chain area is very fine and soft to the point Im not sure my truck would make it through. Project for another day to drop a culvert in area and new gravel.
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Might be time to buy a diverter valve for the 3rd function due to my laziness. Would be nice to leave hydraulic levers hooked up.
 
I've been losing fluid through the relief valve on the loader hydraulic valve. Just drips right out. Never having been in one, anything particularly worrisome about taking it apart to try and seal it?

Is it o rings or crush washers in it? The Messicks site can be confusing.

I've downloaded e manuals for a L245DT, read its virtually the same as my gray market L2201DT. The 245 has a hydraulic fluid screen near the clutch linkage, pretty easy to see. Watched a video of a guy on YouTube that pulled it and cleaned it as maintenance, then added fresh fluid.

My 2201 is a 1978. Should that have a filter somewhere for the hydraulic fluid? I found what I believe is a oil plug on the bottom of the case, there is sight plug on the side same as the 245, but no screen on the side of the case.

Anyone have good info?
 
Relief valve most likely needs disassembled and new o-rings installed. You will need a pressure gauge to reset it. Can you post photos
 
Drips like mad from behind the hex shaped cap. My vernacular could be off, I'm calling it the pressure relief based on Messicks pdfs.

The screen I don't appear to have is #19 looks cylindrical in the attached pdf. Even being from the 70s I'd think it'd have a screen or filter. Only filter on it is the oil filter? Maybe fuel? My 1st tractor so I'm clueless. :homer::shaking:
 

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That's just an O-ring under that cap. No need to fully disassemble to repair. As far as the hydraulic filters I'm not sure but can check if you post the serial number plate.
 
Doesn't appear to have excessive blow by, and she's not blowing white smoke. Sounds like it's down on compression the way the starter sounds turning it over. And after shutting it off it takes 5-6 revs to stop instead of 1-2 like before. Oil is clean and full. Pulled the radiator cap and no bubbles.


Edit: The oil light flickers was flickering at idle yesterday when it was hot. It's not flickering now.
 

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Duc said:
Finally had a chance to put the hydraulic auger to use with awesome results. The soil is the Carnuel NM area is decomposed granite with almost no moisture content which caused alot of issues the first time we tried to drill the holes. Sides of the hole were falling back into the faster than we could remove the soil until we saturated the soil with water. I should have taken some pictures of how dry the soil was but in the end we used a 275 gallon water tote to saturate the soil while I left the auger spinning in the hole. I think we used about 100 gallons between drilling the holes and watering the fast-set concrete for the two post we set. We set the 5.5in drill pipe 4 feet into the ground with roughly 3 ft above.

My house is about 3/4 mile downhill from this location. First hole took about 35 minutes with setup and second hole was 15 mins to finish. The soil in the chain area is very fine and soft to the point Im not sure my truck would make it through. Project for another day to drop a culvert in area and new gravel.


Might be time to buy a diverter valve for the 3rd function due to my laziness. Would be nice to leave hydraulic levers hooked up.
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Is that the Monticello area? I grew up in Carnuel way back when
 
Wheelerfreak said:
Is that the Monticello area? I grew up in Carnuel way back when
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Yes it is, I live right next to the housing development on 48 acres. From what I understand there used to be a metal 65,000 gallon tank at the top of my property.
 
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I'm sorry, ✋ 14 year John Deere dealership technician, your engine sounds like every other 2.9 Deere 3 cylinder diesel.
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
I changed the oil and there was some silver tint to it but no flakes that I could see.
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that's usually little tiny air bubbles
let it sit in a clear plastic jug from the trash for a couple weeks before dumping it into your used oil container
that'll let you see what kind of particulate settles out

so long as it starts okay isn't down on power and doesn't have so much blowby that it is ejaculating oil everywhere, keep on running it as a rebuild can pretty much only cause harm
 
1oddtech said:
That's just an O-ring under that cap. No need to fully disassemble to repair. As far as the hydraulic filters I'm not sure but can check if you post the serial number plate.
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Is this what is needed? I started a reply this morning and never finished the post :laughing::homer::shaking: let me know if more information is needed.

I never got to the hydraulic valve, worked on my roof and sons tiny house all day.
 

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Got the injectors pulled last night. I called Deere yesterday and parts guy said they have OEM, aftermarket and rebuilt shown. OEM new is $135 each, rebuilt was like $85 i think. I am gonna take mine up there to make sure I get the right part #. I looked all over the damn things and I don't see a part number on them unless I am looking in the wrong spot or it's been painted over from the factory. I am leaning towards buying brand new OEM unless something thinks I should go with the rebuilt?
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
Got the injectors pulled last night. I called Deere yesterday and parts guy said they have OEM, aftermarket and rebuilt shown. OEM new is $135 each, rebuilt was like $85 i think. I am gonna take mine up there to make sure I get the right part #. I looked all over the damn things and I don't see a part number on them unless I am looking in the wrong spot or it's been painted over from the factory. I am leaning towards buying brand new OEM unless something thinks I should go with the rebuilt?
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Does it still have low or no oil pressure?
 
JR4X said:
Does it still have low or no oil pressure?
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The light does flicker occasionally but the oil is a little overfull and the oil smells a little bit like fuel. The Deeres that I have had never had a gauge, just a low oil light.

There is no blow by coming out of the crankcase vent, no bubbles in the radiator.
 
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