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The TRACTOR thread

1oddtech said:
I wish I could just :lmao: instead of repost your photo but damn
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I wish I could take credit for all of it, but I don’t have 20hrs of use on this bush hog since I bought it hooked to a Deere 4200 from a guy who used it to cut the church grass. ( the 3point mount rail was not bent this morning though)
(He sold me the tractor with 32xx hrs and priced accordingly, but the condition/wear didn’t align with that and it turns out the decimal place in the dash was just burnt out apparently after checking the last digit over 12 min verification period :laughing:
 
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WTF? said:
What about when the clutches are smoked and you cant tighten anymore because there’s no thread/ spring compression remaining :Homer:
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Drill a single 5/16 hole through the assembly and use a flywheel shear bolt for a NH or similar square baler. Should keep the tractor PTO and/or gearbox input from twisting off.
 
IowaOffRoad said:
Drill a single 5/16 hole through the assembly and use a flywheel shear bolt for a NH or similar square baler. Should keep the tractor PTO and/or gearbox input from twisting off.
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This is probably the approach I would be most likely to implement. The last time I dealt with a slipping slipper clutch I think I use bailing wire to bond both sides.
 
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a slipper clutch that wasn’t rusted solid. Everything near the coast in fl rusts solid as soon as it can.
 
or how about you dont destroy that mower and use something meant for mowing 4" trees? lol
 
4" trees is firmly into chainsaw territory. or a tree shear on a skid steer.
 
I guess if you can get it under the mower deck then it’s fair game? Swinging blades ftw
 
WTF? said:
It appears that I’ve found the precise amount of utter abuse that a generic 5’ bush hog will handle when treating it as a forestry mulcher:

Yes it’s supposed to be straight:
IMG_4693.jpeg


New inspection port;




Which is just my luck because a couple weeks ago, I treated her to new blades after I discovered she was swinging rounded over pieces of 1/2” bar stock ( the difference between old and new blades is shockingly little):

IMG_4420.jpeg
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There's a lot of life left in that old blade. Some folks say don't sharpen bush hog blades but I do. I use a flap wheel and don't get it too hot.
 
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WTF? said:
I wish I could take credit for all of it, but I don’t have 20hrs of use on this bush hog since I bought it hooked to a Deere 4200 from a guy who used it to cut the church grass. ( the 3point mount rail was not bent this morning though)
(He sold me the tractor with 32xx hrs and priced accordingly, but the condition/wear didn’t align with that and it turns out the decimal place in the dash was just burnt out apparently after checking the last digit over 12 min verification period :laughing:
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You are not using the correct tool for the job. The parts that are meant to save you from yourself are doing you the favor of saving you from yourself. As you delete them you are setting yourself up to finish off breaking shit.

So are you really thinking this all the way through? Sure you can probably replace that mower cheap because of your location. What if you tear up the PTO drive inside the transmission before that mower you are bludgeoning to death breaks first.
 
WTF? said:
It appears that I’ve found the precise amount of utter abuse that a generic 5’ bush hog will handle when treating it as a forestry mulcher:

Yes it’s supposed to be straight:


New inspection port;




Which is just my luck because a couple weeks ago, I treated her to new blades after I discovered she was swinging rounded over pieces of 1/2” bar stock ( the difference between old and new blades is shockingly little):
IMG_4350.jpeg
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I pulled mine and sharpened them, only cut a grassy field with like 2-4’ tall weeds, but didn’t notice any difference in performance.
 
Putting the tractor back together tonight. I took the turbo, muffler and stack off as one unit. I pulled the muffler off so it was easier to get the flange bolts on the turbo to exhaust manifold back there easier. The turbo shaft wiggles like hell. FML
 

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Wades_76_cj7 said:
Putting the tractor back together tonight. I took the turbo, muffler and stack off as one unit. I pulled the muffler off so it was easier to get the flange bolts on the turbo to exhaust manifold back there easier. The turbo shaft wiggles like hell. FML
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in and out matters, side to side doesn't really


oil out the ends can be attributed to high crankcase pressure
 
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