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The TRACTOR thread

Wades_76_cj7 said:
Got the injectors pulled last night. I called Deere yesterday and parts guy said they have OEM, aftermarket and rebuilt shown. OEM new is $135 each, rebuilt was like $85 i think. I am gonna take mine up there to make sure I get the right part #. I looked all over the damn things and I don't see a part number on them unless I am looking in the wrong spot or it's been painted over from the factory. I am leaning towards buying brand new OEM unless something thinks I should go with the rebuilt?
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Area diesel charged me either $75 or $95 to rebuild 3

Why do you think injector issues? Making oil?
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Area diesel charged me either $75 or $95 to rebuild 3

Why do you think injector issues? Making oil?
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White smoke at all rpm, oil has a faint fuel smell and it's a bit overfull

Found a local shop that will test them for fifty bucks. I'll do that before I buy new
 
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Wades_76_cj7 said:
Think the engine in my tractor is on the way out. Was clipping pasture tonight and when I was finished she started blowing white smoke and when I idled down the oil light came on. Uh oh. Checked the oil and it's full. It spins pretty easy when starting and takes a couple seconds to catch. Doesn't sound right, like it's missing and when shutting it down it doesn't shut off immediately. It seems to "coast" like it's low compression. ☹️
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Had to go back and read some. I From the video I would say you have a miss as well.

In frame or not a new set of injectors hurts nothing. I am sure it is due.

Low oil pressure could be from fuel dilution from bad injector? I mean there is a chance anyway, worth a shot.
 
[486] said:
does it still not have compression?
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I didn't check compression yet. With the white smoke at all rpm buddy and I think it's injector. If injectors test good then I'll start looking deeper
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
I didn't check compression yet. With the white smoke at all rpm buddy and I think it's injector. If injectors test good then I'll start looking deeper
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You slow wind down could be from a leaky injector or lazy fuel shut off solenoid too. Don't give up hope!
 
Tiha said:
You slow wind down could be from a leaky injector or lazy fuel shut off solenoid too. Don't give up hope!
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That was my thoughts as well. Injector dribbling fuel would make it "diesel" after I shut it off
 
I dunno the 2.9 deere, but i think you on right track.
Pump timing on mark where it should be?
Do you know what psi the oil light comes on at?
 
Dropped the injectors off at a local diesel shop to have them tested. They quoted me $50 to test them. If they are bad, I am hoping that is the issue, they can get me some replacement for about $80 each vs OEM from Deere for $140. Which are most likely the same ones just marked up and in a Deere box. They are gonna test this morning and call me.

side note: I did run by the local dealer there to grab an oil and fuel filter.. (they are cheaper there than Wix at Napa). The little parts gal was on point. holy shit. fantastic butt and she came walking out of the backroom with my filters with the high beams on and :smokin:. I told my buddy that was with me that I might have to start driving over to this dealer for me parts. :laughing:
 
Levigarrett76 said:
I dunno the 2.9 deere, but i think you on right track.
Pump timing on mark where it should be?
Do you know what psi the oil light comes on at?
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i dont. the tractor only has an idiot light for the oil. I never understood why they don't put gauges in for oil pressure. They have a gauge for water temp.
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
Dropped the injectors off at a local diesel shop to have them tested. They quoted me $50 to test them. If they are bad, I am hoping that is the issue, they can get me some replacement for about $80 each vs OEM from Deere for $140. Which are most likely the same ones just marked up and in a Deere box. They are gonna test this morning and call me.

side note: I did run by the local dealer there to grab an oil and fuel filter.. (they are cheaper there than Wix at Napa). The little parts gal was on point. holy shit. fantastic butt and she came walking out of the backroom with my filters with the high beams on and :smokin:. I told my buddy that was with me that I might have to start driving over to this dealer for me parts. :laughing:
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I think you forgot the injector sealing rings. Don't forget to bring your phone to take pictures.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
I think you forgot the injector sealing rings. Don't forget to bring your phone to take pictures.
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What injector sealing rings are you talking about? There were two seals on the pencil body. one down about halfway and another up towards the end opposite the spray nozzle. this is new territory for me so I am all ears.

edit to add pic. Mine had these two seals on it when I pulled them out. is this what you mean?
injector.png
 
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JR4X said:
Those idiot light sensors go bad. Some of them are set for 20 or 25 psi. He might have 60 pounds and the lights flickering. I’d want to know.
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You are correct, if I saw it flicker once I would have to know too.

Just rather I never see it flicker. LOL
 
I keep an oil pressure gauge in toolbox with short length of hose just for testing
 
Talked to the diesel shop. they tested the injectors and they are fine. Talking with him he said to check the lift pump. if the lift pump is weak or dead the injection pump may be sucking air and that can cause the smoke issue. As far as the fuel smell in the oil he said it could be the front seals on the injection pump letting fuel past into the crankcase. I will change the fuel filter when i put it back together. it is due to be changed anyway.

Rebuild on the injection pump will run 500-650 he said. Cleaned, inspected, rebuilt and 3 yr warranty. I asked about the ULSD and he said it is definitely a problem in the older engines. The seals and o rings aren't made for it and they deteriorate.
 
It appears that I’ve found the precise amount of utter abuse that a generic 5’ bush hog will handle when treating it as a forestry mulcher:

Yes it’s supposed to be straight:
IMG_4693.jpeg


New inspection port;

IMG_4721.png



Which is just my luck because a couple weeks ago, I treated her to new blades after I discovered she was swinging rounded over pieces of 1/2” bar stock ( the difference between old and new blades is shockingly little):
IMG_4350.jpeg

IMG_4420.jpeg
 
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Spin-off post- is a pto slipper clutch really even necessary For a 28 hp diesel tractor turning a 5’ bush hog? If yes, explain why/ what potential disaster expensive repairs I’m tap dancing around.

It routinely just stalls the tractor if I can’t disengage the pto fast enough when it bites off more than it wants out of a 5”diameter tree trunk.
 
WTF? said:
Spin-off post- is a slipper clutch necessary For a 28 hp diesel tractor turning a 5’ bush hog? If yes, explain why/ what potential disaster expensive repairs I’m tap dancing around.

It routinely just stalls the tractor if I can’t disengage the pto fast enough when it bites off more than it wants out of a 5”diameter tree trunk.
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Yes
Because
 
[486] said:
you'll break the chinese gearbox a lot easier without the slipper clutch
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The brush hog gearbox? Because I’m ok with that risk in exchange for slipper clutch not slipping when it doesn’t need to.

Also the gear box appears to cost about as much as a slipper clutch:
IMG_4722.jpeg
 
WTF? said:
It appears that I’ve found the precise amount of utter abuse that a generic 5’ bush hog will handle when treating it as a forestry mulcher:

Yes it’s supposed to be straight:
IMG_4693.jpeg


New inspection port;

IMG_4721.png



Which is just my luck because a couple weeks ago, I treated her to new blades after I discovered she was swinging rounded over pieces oh 1/2” bar stock ( the difference between old and new blades is shockingly little):
IMG_4350.jpeg

IMG_4420.jpeg
Click to expand...

I wish I could just :lmao: instead of repost your photo but damn
 
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