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The 3D printer thread

TheLivingBubba said:
PLA? Upping the bed temp 5C and adding a brim on models I cared about really helped with the curling for me.
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spork said:
I bumped my pla bed temp up 10 degrees, amazing how well things stick now. Come off a lot better once I let it cool also.
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Yup, pla.

I will try that on the next print. Today's print I added a brim but stayed at 60c. There was a little bit of curling, but only on one corner. I'll try my next print with a brim and at 65c
 
Went searching for another way to store filament. Just toss in drawers now and I can tell its pickup up water, plus the drawers are the wrong size and the cabinet sucks

Found these at home debt - Plano 16 qt. Storage Crate PLA1071MC - The Home Depot

A little spendier than I wanted, but both spools and the spools in boxes fit vertically. Seem to seal pretty well, so I plan on dropping some dessicant packets in each.
 
kf4zht said:
Went searching for another way to store filament. Just toss in drawers now and I can tell its pickup up water, plus the drawers are the wrong size and the cabinet sucks

Found these at home debt - Plano 16 qt. Storage Crate PLA1071MC - The Home Depot

A little spendier than I wanted, but both spools and the spools in boxes fit vertically. Seem to seal pretty well, so I plan on dropping some dessicant packets in each.
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Sealing totes with desiccant is what I was recommended by my buddy in design engineering who uses these things at work. Of the simple answer is good enough for a multi billion dollar company, should be good enough for me.
 
Clemson13 said:
Sealing totes with desiccant is what I was recommended by my buddy in design engineering who uses these things at work. Of the simple answer is good enough for a multi billion dollar company, should be good enough for me.
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Yeah, its just annoying to find totes that fit spools well. I don't like vertically stacking and its harder to see whats on the bottom, but finding tubs that are as deep as wide and not huge is annoying. I'll be going back and get a few more of these. Knowing home despot these will only be around for a month, never to be seen again
 
I use these for storage. A little bit tall but 4 or 5 spools fit side by side in them depending on how wide the spool is. They fit if still in their boxes also.

Sterilite 19324306 20 Quart/19 Liter Gasket Box, Clear with Blue Aquarium Latches and Gasket, 6-Pack https://a.co/d/j266n13
 
Clemson13 said:
Yup, pla.

I will try that on the next print. Today's print I added a brim but stayed at 60c. There was a little bit of curling, but only on one corner. I'll try my next print with a brim and at 65c
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you're going to have problems with pointy things that are narrow/long, it's just how it is unless you enclose it.

I print in a cold house and with PLA I run the bed temp at 60. I do use a glass build plate. run some test cubes with increasing bed temps and see where you get elephant foot problems, back it down 5 degrees from there.

the old trick was to create single layer dime sized STL files, one layer tall, then overlap the models so you could get mouse ears at the corners.
I think slic3r added mouse ears as a slicing option, but I haven't messed with it in a while.
 
i too print in a cold basement and found this is the ticket for prints staying place. and i use that cheap purple can hair spray

1672334759169.png
 
87manche said:
you're going to have problems with pointy things that are narrow/long, it's just how it is unless you enclose it.

I print in a cold house and with PLA I run the bed temp at 60. I do use a glass build plate. run some test cubes with increasing bed temps and see where you get elephant foot problems, back it down 5 degrees from there.

the old trick was to create single layer dime sized STL files, one layer tall, then overlap the models so you could get mouse ears at the corners.
I think slic3r added mouse ears as a slicing option, but I haven't messed with it in a while.
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yes. Prusa Slicer has this feature where you can add what they call a stability disc right in the program. I had to use these recently on a narrow and tall print with PETG. Those with a wide brim solved my warping issues.

I will also second the above posted PEI flex sheet. That is literally all I run on my printers. I don’t use glass beds on any of them.
 
kf4zht said:
Yeah, its just annoying to find totes that fit spools well. I don't like vertically stacking and its harder to see whats on the bottom, but finding tubs that are as deep as wide and not huge is annoying. I'll be going back and get a few more of these. Knowing home despot these will only be around for a month, never to be seen again
Click to expand...
I use a 50L Ezy Storage Ezy Storage 50L/52.8Qt Waterproof Clear Latch Tote IP-67 FBA34063 - The Home Depot
two of the 18L Ezy Storage 18L/19Qt Waterproof Clear Latch Tote IP-67 FBA34060 - The Home Depot
and cereal containers like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YQN42H...olid=10JC51DI3986N&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I live in a high humid environment and usually print directly from a dryer. Glued some hygrometers into the cereal containers and use them mostly for PETG that I use frequently. The other ones I stack extras of a color I'm not gonna use, but I keep hygrometers and renewable desiccants in them.
 
So, friend of mine wants me to print a bushing to put a 9mm barrel in a 12 gauge shotgun.

He gave me the barrel he wants to use. I was thinking I could just find a 12 gauge shell file, then edit it to have a hole In the middle and then stick the barrel in said hole. Could make the fit tight and put the barrel in the freezer overnight to make it fit.

I realize that plastic probably will not last. But will PETG last for at least a few shots?
 
The 9mm will be in the barrel, heat is probably your biggest threat and this sounds like a single shot so I think it will last longer than you think.
 
Follow up question.

Anyone have or know where I can find a fusion 360 supported file of a nice straight-ish dick I can resize and edit for the purposes of this shotgun to 9mm adapter bushing?

I've not had luck importing from mesh
 
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New user with and Ender 3 SI Pro. How sensitive/critical are the filament brands? Where are you finding the best place to purchase them?
 
MtnYota said:
New user with and Ender 3 SI Pro. How sensitive/critical are the filament brands? Where are you finding the best place to purchase them?
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I buy all my filament from Amazon, I like eSun lately if they make the color I want. Brands are hit and miss, sometimes even different colors print better or worse in the same brand.
 
granitestatedestroyer said:
Follow up question.

Anyone have or know where I can find a fusion 360 supported file of a nice straight-ish dick I can resize and edit for the purposes of this shotgun to 9mm adapter bushing?

I've not had luck importing from mesh
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I'd look on thingiverse, does fusion 360 allow you to import stl files? If it doesn't maybe use tinkercad to import it and save it to another file type.
 
MtnYota said:
New user with and Ender 3 SI Pro. How sensitive/critical are the filament brands? Where are you finding the best place to purchase them?
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Not as much as people lead you to believe. I’ve put tons of spools from multiple manufacturers thru my machines and rarely run into issues. Sometimes you get a badly rolled spool from even the best manufacturers. I buy the vast majority of my filaments thru Amazon. They very often have lightning delays and sales on spools. During prime day sales I’ve ordered up to 20 different rolls from different manufacturers and in different materials, styles, and colors.
Amolen makes some really nice multicolor silks
Sunlu, Overture, Amazon Basics, etc are available in tons of colors and all have worked well for me as well.
 
granitestatedestroyer said:
So, friend of mine wants me to print a bushing to put a 9mm barrel in a 12 gauge shotgun.

He gave me the barrel he wants to use. I was thinking I could just find a 12 gauge shell file, then edit it to have a hole In the middle and then stick the barrel in said hole. Could make the fit tight and put the barrel in the freezer overnight to make it fit.

I realize that plastic probably will not last. But will PETG last for at least a few shots?
Click to expand...

Don't they already make exactly what he wants for like $50?

It's been a long time since I looked but it seemed like 12ga drop in inserts for .22LR, 9mm, .223 and all sorts of other common calibers used to be all over the place for cheap.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Don't they already make exactly what he wants for like $50?

It's been a long time since I looked but it seemed like 12ga drop in inserts for .22LR, 9mm, .223 and all sorts of other common calibers used to be all over the place for cheap.
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Aren't you the guy that will hack fab anything to save 45 of 50 bucks?

plus they probably don't come dick shaped
 
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Got my ender 3 pro in the mail today. Within 2 hrs was printing scale gas cans. Going to have a Lotta fun with this thing
 

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Alright this 3D printing has got my attention, and that's tough sometimes, but anybody have advise for a dumb fucker on how to get started? I need to learn the software and don't know where to start.
I'd really like to get into making 3D printed stuff, I could add a lot of detail to some of my projects.
 
Gdogg said:
Alright this 3D printing has got my attention, and that's tough sometimes, but anybody have advise for a dumb fucker on how to get started? I need to learn the software and don't know where to start.
I'd really like to get into making 3D printed stuff, I could add a lot of detail to some of my projects.
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order one
order some pla
get on thingsverse
get the free files that you think are neat
push print
and roll with it until you wrap your hear around the mechanics of it
(FYI, first layer is down, you about good to go)
pick your CAD pram that used .STL files
or default to Tinkercad for free

:grinpimp:
 
So here you go guys. My boys 4th birthday is coming up end of the month and all of a sudden he is obsessed with Spider-Man. So I spent well over an hour painting this Iron Spider bust in Bambu studio to print in 4 colors on the X1C. Getting all the edges of the webbing was a bear and took ages, but it should HOPEFULLY look amazing when it’s done.

A98EE909-DF50-4E86-B983-DB216DA4BD78.jpeg
C7B3D051-DB5A-4BA4-AFCB-424F7ACF1942.jpeg


It’s going to take over 2 days on standard speed. I’ll probably bump it to sport mode to cut that down to a day and a half. Tweaked the purge settings and have it set to purge to infill and to supports to reduce the waste. It’s going to take 1,962 filament changes, again due to all the little webbing and shit.
9AA8A99E-2704-474E-BC30-0328B9EE65AE.jpeg


Should be a good torture test for the printer and AMS unit.
 
Interesting to see it is going to purge more silver and gold filament than will actually be in the model.

That is cool you can burn off some of the purged waste as infill/supports though.
 
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