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The 3D printer thread

Omg I'm dieing!

It did come out pretty good. A few columns must have hit the print head on the back side and broke off. But it did print pretty well! 27 hours....

They wanted 500 euro for a 10" ish one there. I figured I could print one myself. Wife likes it.
 
I needed a way to mount my side marker lights to the back of the Bronco fenders.

Also first time installing brass threaded inserts. Works pretty good.

I'll use panel bond to stick them to the back of the fender.

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Well this is pretty cool. I’ve been putting some files up on Makerworld for a while now and recently started getting into some of their design contests. I’ve had some files do ok. But I’ve never had one pop up on the home page before. This one though is blowing up big time. I spent probably 2 weeks designing a pack of 44 magnets for the fridge magnet contest. As of this morning it’s at 184 likes, 264 collects, 221 downloads, 19 prints, and it’s gotten 10 boosts so far! All in I’ve gotten about 400 points off of it too.


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CR-10 V2's hot end mount is distorted from heat and the bowden tube kept popping out of the filament drive extruder.

I decided that was a good enough excuse to go direct drive. Creality's Sprite Direct Drive is <$40 on Amazon and claims it fits a CR-10. It might fit some version of the CR-10 but it doesn't come close to fitting the CR-10 V2's extruder support plate.

I ordered a cheap aftermarket extruder support plate that doesn't have the 90° flange on the top, that interferes with the Sprite's bracket like on the stock plate, in hopes of still using the Sprite. Didn't realize it doesn't have provisions to mount the CR Touch until it arrived.

I thought, well, I'll whittle the flange off my original extruder support plate and make it fit. That's when I discovered the holes in the Sprite's mounting bracket don't align with the roller holes on the CR-10 V2's extruder support plate. It's off by 3/4 of a hole. I was planning on whittling anyway, so I thought, heck I'll just oblong one of the bracket's holes to make it work. Before I broke out the angle grinder I thought I better lay things out and check what alignment between the Sprite direct drive and hot end was going to be when I got done. Best I could do using the included hardware would have the direct drive Sprite misaligned from the hot end at least 1.5" to one side.

I got frustrated, boxed it all up, and returned it.

I've got a complete Micro Swiss direct drive extruder and hot end kit, specifically for a CR-10 V2, ordered now.

My ~$400 3D printer is quickly becoming a $600+ 3D printer. Not sure what I would have bought at the time, but I'm wishing I'd started out with a better printer. I've got a real Sunk Cost Fallacy situation going on here. I should probably cut bait, and start over with a higher quality and better supported printer.
 
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richardskinner said:
Unfortunately not. My P1S stinks up my office real badly and they are enclosed with charcoal filter.

If you have a laundry room connected to a bathroom with a poo poo fan and can make a printer cabinet it's a good spot indoors. Close off the laundry room and leave the shitter exhaust fan on. The wife will love that your hobbies are spilling into her domain :lmao:
Click to expand...

I run a little hepa fan and filter and it seems to help a lot with fume. I’m not on the room when it prints but I would think the servos would drive me mad white the buzzing.


Something like this is what I have not sure exactly which one though, filter is in the bottom so just shove the filter material in there.
 
Creality K1 print speed.
This file was 7x1.5x1.5, 30% infill, 4 outer layers, print time of 65mins.
 

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Gots_a_sol said:
Nice. Been eyeballing a K1 Max to replace my OG Ender 5.

Any issues with your K1?
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My Max has been pretty solid. Only real fault occurred when I switched to a side mounted spool setup, it pulled the feed tube that goes through the back of the machine at a funny angle and caused it to pinch. I've since added lid risers which repositioned the feed tube out the side and hole the tube runs through has a rounded edge which stops the tube pinching when it gets pulled 90deg.
 
Gots_a_sol said:
Nice. Been eyeballing a K1 Max to replace my OG Ender 5.

Any issues with your K1?
Click to expand...
It has been rock solid other than the nozzle coming loose one time.
Prints PLA, PETG, ABS and TPU with great quality and speed.
I put 270deg hinges on the door, and relocated the spool and filament sensor to the side. Upgraded to a textured bed plate and it's been great. My only gripe is that there isn't a K1 profile for prusa slicer yet, but Creality Print has been pretty good.

My personal preference would be two K1's over a K1 max for about the same price. I think people overestimate their build volume requirements when it's so easy to split large items and glue together after printing. From my perspective, it's all about how much material you can sling at a time, so two printers working at the same time is better than one large print volume, plus if you do happen to have a failed print, you only failed the portion of the final assembly, not a huge 24hr print.
 
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engineerjoe said:
It has been rock solid other than the nozzle coming loose one time.
Prints PLA, PETG, ABS and TPU with great quality and speed.
I put 270deg hinges on the door, and relocated the spool and filament sensor to the side. Upgraded to a textured bed plate and it's been great. My only gripe is that there isn't a K1 profile for prusa slicer yet, but Creality Print has been pretty good.

My personal preference would be two K1's over a K1 max for about the same price. I think people overestimate their build volume requirements when it's so easy to split large items and glue together after printing. From my perspective, it's all about how much material you can sling at a time, so two printers working at the same time is better than one large print volume, plus if you do happen to have a failed print, you only failed the portion of the final assembly, not a huge 24hr print.
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adding to that, sometimes you want to split the model and use a different orientation of one section to get the layers oriented in a stronger direction.

So yeah, generally I'd take two printers over one large one.
 
richardskinner said:
adding to that, sometimes you want to split the model and use a different orientation of one section to get the layers oriented in a stronger direction.

So yeah, generally I'd take two printers over one large one.
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I've got the 350 voron, and it has been nice, not a single time have I wanted to print something that didn't fit. But I'll agree on multiples most of the time. If you want to print a bunch of things, sure you can fit them, but all it takes is one getting bad adhesion and the batch has big issues.

I keep looking at options for a second, smaller and fast printer for options
 
I would say the opposite, if I could have one large printer or a smaller one I would want a larger one. I haven’t had any adhesion issues with the p1s. If they made a 2ftx2ftx2ft that would be perfect for anything I could think of. You could print a lot of things in place instead of having to print in pieces then assemble them.
 
Shopping larger 3D printers. Got caught on the Vorons. Didn't care for the cost of the kits and time involved to build it. Found this Sovol SV08 which is Voron-ish and 350x350x345.

Reviews have been mixed from what I was reading but most of those people sounded like they weren't tinkerers/diy people.


eBay is running 20% off so $497 shipped to my door. Said fuck it and ordered it Monday, arrived today. Took about an hour to build.


Next to my ender 5

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Build plates

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First benchy I ever printed. 14 mins from turning on the printer and clicking print to done. Needs a little tuning but not bad.

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Just started into 3D printing and can easily see how awesome it is going to be. The kids and I have been printing a bunch of ready designed models but can’t wait to learn to design my own Knick knacks.

Ended up with a Bambu P1P and have no complaints this far.
 
I’m going to order a P1S with the AMS while there’s still a sale going on. What spare parts and nozzle sizes should I order right out of the gate? Everything is discounted right now so, including filament, I’d like to have what I need on hand. I’m planning on starting with 3 colors of PLA and 1 of PTEG, should I stick with Bambu filament or shop for something cheaper?
 
I would get an extra one or two hot ends .4 is “standard”, I changed mine out at 700 hours. I would probably also pick up a .2 if your doing artsy fartsy things, it will give you a lot more detail. Only non printed upgrades I’ve done was add an auxiliary light around the top of the chamber.

I usually get the 10kg spools off Amazon for $10 a kg, haven’t noticed any difference in quality of prints. You do want to keep it dry, I think the egaloo spools come in ziplock bags, someone will correct me if I’m wrong but I use those with a few packages of desiccant.

Type of filament depends on your intended use, I primarily use abs, it’s cheap, strong and cheap(may be more expensive per kg but it’s a lighter weight plastic so you get more print volume per kg than standard pla.

Most problems I’ve had have been in the slicer so try to familiarize yourself with it and print away.
 
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Bambu is doing a sale?? Oh crap.

Edit..... No x1c on sale.... 😭
 
I had an Ender 5 Pro which I upgraded a few things. Was working well but slow, had it's quirks and not enclosed. Sold it and bought a K1 Max.

It's fast. But it prints better slowed down a bit. The software isn't clever enough to update print speed for the slower times though. If it was 1 hour to go on max speed then it'll still tell you 1 hour while taking 2 on 50%. :laughing:

Prints nicely though and being enclosed can do ABS plastics.

Here's a PLA heat-transfer system I printed. Uses a computer fan:
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Here's an ABS shock stand I printed. Same thing on the Ender5 in a bag with a heater didn't stick well and eventually fractured off into layers. This one had some adhesion issues but worked well on 50% past that.

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I print a lot of these PETG part buckets for work. These used to take ages and now they're real quick. Ender had quality issues with thin walls which this one doesn't.
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Dougal said:
I had an Ender 5 Pro which I upgraded a few things. Was working well but slow, had it's quirks and not enclosed. Sold it and bought a K1 Max.

It's fast. But it prints better slowed down a bit. The software isn't clever enough to update print speed for the slower times though. If it was 1 hour to go on max speed then it'll still tell you 1 hour while taking 2 on 50%. :laughing:

Prints nicely though and being enclosed can do ABS plastics.

Here's a PLA heat-transfer system I printed. Uses a computer fan:
1723349345140.png


Here's an ABS shock stand I printed. Same thing on the Ender5 in a bag with a heater didn't stick well and eventually fractured off into layers. This one had some adhesion issues but worked well on 50% past that.

1723349470763.png


I print a lot of these PETG part buckets for work. These used to take ages and now they're real quick. Ender had quality issues with thin walls which this one doesn't.
1723349561798.png
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50% speed is still faster than the old one?
 
Chkn said:
50% speed is still faster than the old one?
Click to expand...
25% speed "silent mode" (not even close to silent BTW) is still much faster than the old one. I had under-extrusion issues with the Ender 5 that kept me printing at 40-80mm/s. K1 Max can do 600mm/s.

Because peak speed doesn't happen all the time it averages about 8x faster than the Ender 5 at full speed. It's also got a bigger bed so like the part buckets above I can print the same number in fewer setups.
 
Dougal said:
25% speed "silent mode" (not even close to silent BTW) is still much faster than the old one. I had under-extrusion issues with the Ender 5 that kept me printing at 40-80mm/s. K1 Max can do 600mm/s.

Because peak speed doesn't happen all the time it averages about 8x faster than the Ender 5 at full speed. It's also got a bigger bed so like the part buckets above I can print the same number in fewer setups.
Click to expand...
I couldn't get over how much louder the Max is than the Ender, used to it now though.
 
Donk said:
I couldn't get over how much louder the Max is than the Ender, used to it now though.
Click to expand...

Yeah even silent mode isn't anywhere near silent. Without the case closed the fan noise is ridiculous.
 
engineerjoe said:
It has been rock solid other than the nozzle coming loose one time.
Prints PLA, PETG, ABS and TPU with great quality and speed.
I put 270deg hinges on the door, and relocated the spool and filament sensor to the side. Upgraded to a textured bed plate and it's been great. My only gripe is that there isn't a K1 profile for prusa slicer yet, but Creality Print has been pretty good.

My personal preference would be two K1's over a K1 max for about the same price. I think people overestimate their build volume requirements when it's so easy to split large items and glue together after printing. From my perspective, it's all about how much material you can sling at a time, so two printers working at the same time is better than one large print volume, plus if you do happen to have a failed print, you only failed the portion of the final assembly, not a huge 24hr print.
Click to expand...
Have you tried Orca Slicer? Prusa Slicer was all I’d use until I tried Orca. It’s got built in calibration models to print out so you can tune your printer.
 
Behemoth13 said:
Have you tried Orca Slicer? Prusa Slicer was all I’d use until I tried Orca. It’s got built in calibration models to print out so you can tune your printer.
Click to expand...
Last time I played with orca it had no native K1/K1 max stuff. The other thing the creality software lets you do is upload to and monitor the printer via LAN.
Cal pieces are easy to find, my go to even includes a pre made spreadsheet for you to punch the numbers into to calculate the changes needed.
 
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