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The 3D printer thread

I check this thread out once in a while, 3d printing has had my interest for a long time but never pulled the trigger on a printer. I have purchased a few 3d printed items and am happy with them. I have a few 3d printed milwaukee 12v and 18v battery adapters for various projects.

I found a 3d printed suppressor for my pellet gun. Made and sold by Buck Rail. And yeah, it fuckin works - this thing is quiet! It was about $40 for a 3d printed front sight w/threaded muzzle and the 3d printed suppressor. I dont think there is any material inside the suppressor other than the baffles. The only real flaw is the threads, I had to put some white grease on and it will thread but its tight

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I check this thread out once in a while, 3d printing has had my interest for a long time but never pulled the trigger on a printer. I have purchased a few 3d printed items and am happy with them. I have a few 3d printed milwaukee 12v and 18v battery adapters for various projects.

I found a 3d printed suppressor for my pellet gun. Made and sold by Buck Rail. And yeah, it fuckin works - this thing is quiet! It was about $40 for a 3d printed front sight w/threaded muzzle and the 3d printed suppressor. I dont think there is any material inside the suppressor other than the baffles. The only real flaw is the threads, I had to put some white grease on and it will thread but its tight

20240603_124507.jpg
chase it with a tap

I print my threads tight on purpose, then chase them so I know they are engaging right
 
They went with a fatter thread, website says M20 x 2. I think installing and removing a few times will de burr it. Even if I found a tap that size it would probably cost more than the suppressor. Unless... 3d printed tap????
Linky:
 
They went with a fatter thread, website says M20 x 2. I think installing and removing a few times will de burr it. Even if I found a tap that size it would probably cost more than the suppressor. Unless... 3d printed tap????
Linky:
you need to buy tools then, not 3D printers
turn in your man card
 
Been looking at those Bambus. Smaller than I want, but I could easily print parts in sections that key or snap together.

That’s my biggest problem with it, seems like an extra 4-6 inches would be perfect. 20inx20inx20in would be perfect for pretty much everything in my experience. They are very spendy though once you get into the bigger sizes.

Daaaaaaaang. Okay, maybe I'll go Bambu and key parts together :laughing:

You guys know about the cut function and adding connectors right? Can do quite a few style tabs and peg connectors easily in the software.
 
I had nothing but problems with my ender 3 after a month or two and 10-20 prints.

I have 800 hours on my p1s now with zero problems not caused by slicer settings or bad filament.

It can never be too big, that’s what she said.

Same exact experience. I have hundreds of flawless prints on my P1S now with everything from Lightweight PLA to ABS. I haven't even dabbled with the CF stuff yet.

I've even printed RC planes in lightweight PLA with hollow TPU wheels perfectly.
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I'm eye balling an A1 mini. Do I need to look at the AMS lite feeder for infil? It seems like yes but suprised the unit doesn't come with a function for infill with the stock single spool, I am assuming here.
 
You only need ams(automatic materials system) if you want to print different colors or materials together. I’m assuming with a1 being a bed slinger and non enclosed you would be doing more multicolor than multi material.

Infill is a slicer setting in the g code on your computer, doesn’t really have anything to do with the ams or printer.

For a hundred bucks I would spring for it, ams don’t really seem to lose if anything they add value. I think it would be one of those things that you would regret not getting after a few weeks of printing.
 
Little simple stuff

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My machine is an old Anet A8 that I upgraded with a metal frame. Newer Creality would be nice some day.
K2 is out later this year with a multi filament system........
 
silly question, so i am looking at cad files on DIY offroad and got me wondering if i can buy one of the files, import to my solid works then save it as a STL file so i can print it up for mock up? am i over thinking this. also i suck at drawing shit up beyond simple things. working on getting better but thats another subject
 
silly question, so i am looking at cad files on DIY offroad and got me wondering if i can buy one of the files, import to my solid works then save it as a STL file so i can print it up for mock up? am i over thinking this. also i suck at drawing shit up beyond simple things. working on getting better but thats another subject
Should be able to. The tough part is when you find just .stl files on Thingiverse or whatever. All I’ve figured out I can do with those is adjust scale in different axes. If you find the actual solidworks file, you should be able to happily edit away.
 
this is what i wanted to print first because if it works for mock up i will send out and get 8 cut. says they are dxf files
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this is what i wanted to print first because if it works for mock up i will send out and get 8 cut. says they are dxf files
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Might have to google that. Those might be just 2D files, since they’re just cutting plans? I’m way out of my wheelhouse, though.
 
so i was able to down load the cut file from diyoffroad and took a bit of trial and error and youtube to get it to open in soild works. but once i did it was super simple to extrude to 5 mm and print.
but my printer was giving me fits all weekend. i have not replace one part since 2020 so was looking and a new nozzle and auto level kit. wish me luck. but again thanks for the tip on solid works.
cheers
 
I’m a newbie at this so IDK the difference other than speed and the reviews seemed better on this model.

It did show up yesterday. I was able to put it together and print my first part.

Although my dimensions were off so I’ll need to make some adjustments and print another.





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