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The 3D printer thread

Donk said:
Last time I played with orca it had no native K1/K1 max stuff. The other thing the creality software lets you do is upload to and monitor the printer via LAN.
Cal pieces are easy to find, my go to even includes a pre made spreadsheet for you to punch the numbers into to calculate the changes needed.
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Changes needed for what? Filaments?
 
Behemoth13 said:
Changes needed for what? Filaments?
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Steps per mm

If you print something that should be 150mm and it comes out 148mm, you put in the current steps per mm for the given axis, the length printed and then tool calculates how much you need to change the steps per mm by to print the correct dimension.
The test piece has a bunch of different dimensions to measure, you punch them into the tool, make the changes and repeat until it's correct.
 
Java230 said:
How much better is the X1C vs the P1S?
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I don’t think it’s any better, I was debating between the two and besides a few spaghetti monsters it may have stopped I don’t see any difference. The screen is better on the x1c but I always use the app. I’ve legitimately spent less than 5 minutes using the screen on my p1s, it’s just not needed for anything.
 
Pocahontas said:
I don’t think it’s any better, I was debating between the two and besides a few spaghetti monsters it may have stopped I don’t see any difference. The screen is better on the x1c but I always use the app. I’ve legitimately spent less than 5 minutes using the screen on my p1s, it’s just not needed for anything.
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I like the Webcam.... I run ti away from home 99% of the time. :eek:
 
X1C has a better control set up. Better camera that actually lets you check prints in progress vs the P1 and A1, and spaghetti detection that is either too sensitive or not sensitive enough.
 
Java230 said:
I like the Webcam.... I run ti away from home 99% of the time. :eek:
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Yep, I usually run mine at night or while I’m away, not sure if I’m weird but it running in the same room would drive me crazy.


92 Green YJ said:
X1C has a better control set up. Better camera that actually lets you check prints in progress vs the P1 and A1, and spaghetti detection that is either too sensitive or not sensitive enough.
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My p1s has the camera that you can watch while it’s printing. It’s definitely not great but allows you to see if anything weird is going on. What do you mean by better controls?
 
Pocahontas said:
Yep, I usually run mine at night or while I’m away, not sure if I’m weird but it running in the same room would drive me crazy.




My p1s has the camera that you can watch while it’s printing. It’s definitely not great but allows you to see if anything weird is going on. What do you mean by better controls?
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Oh did they put a better camera in the P1S? The P1P is useless with the frame rate on it. You can see basically a snap shot, but that’s about it. As for controls I meant the touch screen is better than the control panel on the P1P. But I rarely use the on board control panels anyway
 
Pocahontas said:
Standard view from the mobile app.

IMG_7891.jpeg
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Camera shot not sure if that’s the same as the x1c.
 
Still debating, I kinda fell like if I am upgrading printers might as well go X1C, but I dont print a ton. Maybe the P1S is fine... It saves a lot
 
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Always thought I needed something to prop open the hydration bladders while they dry. This works well. I mean, I should’ve made it half as stout, but it works well to keep the walls of the bag apart if you’re also hanging the bag from the cabinet…. True engineering here, everyone.
 
OHV Wildcat said:
IMG_8671.jpeg
IMG_8672.jpeg


Always thought I needed something to prop open the hydration bladders while they dry. This works well. I mean, I should’ve made it half as stout, but it works well to keep the walls of the bag apart if you’re also hanging the bag from the cabinet…. True engineering here, everyone.
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I shove a cut out of the cupboard in there on mine , but hey, you made it :beer:
 
After buying the SV08 and running it side by side with the ender 5, I realized just how painfully slow the 5 was. There are kits for convert it to corexy/linear rails and get speed out of it but by the time you do all that it costs more than I bought the big printer for.

So I replaced it with a used Voron 0.1 for small/fast prints.

Who's a cute little boi :laughing:

PXL_20240818_015945136.jpg


The woman wanted a printed Lego mini fig so knocked out a big ass skeleton. I think the entire thing was about 24 hours of print time on the SV. I sliced just the body section for the E5 and it was saying almost 2 days for just that piece.

PXL_20240815_112104688.jpg
 
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i turned some wasted space into a kick ass printer room. and the best part cat free zone......

endedup getting the neptune 4 pro. kick ass printer so far. still trying to figure out how to get a cat 45 wire there or something so i dont have to keep using thumb drive. anyway thats for the recommendation
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IMG_7196.jpeg

I made these so I can hang osb sheathing by myself. 1/8” gap and you just screw it to the previous course.

Printers are awesome. Not sure how I made it this far without one.
 
OHV Wildcat said:
IMG_8671.jpeg
IMG_8672.jpeg


Always thought I needed something to prop open the hydration bladders while they dry. This works well. I mean, I should’ve made it half as stout, but it works well to keep the walls of the bag apart if you’re also hanging the bag from the cabinet…. True engineering here, everyone.
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Wisconsinite said:
I needed to mark the center of these slots accurately, and printed these little plugs with a 3/16" hole for a center punch.

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Void_of_Light said:
I replaced the radio in my DD and needed a USB port. This is the spot where the old headphone aux port was.
IMG_7707.JPG
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Gunwalls_Buckthorne said:
IMG_7196.jpeg

I made these so I can hang osb sheathing by myself. 1/8” gap and you just screw it to the previous course.

Printers are awesome. Not sure how I made it this far without one.
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This is the kind of thing I think printers are great for, as long as you think through a problem they will allow you to make things that are difficult or time consuming relatively painless.

If it doesn’t work you just have to tweak the file and you print another it’s not starting from scratch all over again.
 
Got the baby Voron running finally after fucking with it most of today.

I don't know what the deal was with this thing but I could not get anything to work right. Eventually just wiped it clean and started fresh, which was a nice crash course in learning how to set up Raspberry Pi/klipper.

Currently it just runs off a web page with Mainsail for everything but I want to add a screen to it as I ran in to a situation where my print came off the bed and the web page lost connection to the printer so it was just sitting there doing its thing with no way to stop it other than cut power :shaking:
 
My kid has an Ender 3 Neo. A while back it started pushing filament around the nozzle.

First attempt was to clean it up, trim the tube and reinstall. That didn't work.

I saw a video about tightening the nozzle while it's hot. So I did that as well. It is still having a problem.

Do any of you have an idea on what to try next? This thing is getting aggravating. He gets a few prints and then something breaks.
 
Check the 2 bolts and set screws that hold the two pieces of the hot end together. Sometimes they loosen and the nozzle side of the hot end can slip down and leave room for the filament to ooze out.

Loosen them and make sure the hot end pieces are fully pressed together then tighten them back up.
 
I'm wondering if that is it. One of the screws were loose and I took it out. The other has a stripped head but felt tight. So I just put the other back in place and tightened it. I wonder if there is some buildup so it felt tight but really isn't.
 
Lincoln said:
My kid has an Ender 3 Neo. A while back it started pushing filament around the nozzle.

First attempt was to clean it up, trim the tube and reinstall. That didn't work.

I saw a video about tightening the nozzle while it's hot. So I did that as well. It is still having a problem.

Do any of you have an idea on what to try next? This thing is getting aggravating. He gets a few prints and then something breaks.
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Make sure the nozzle is bottomed out on the heat break and not the heater block. Tighten when hot. The trick for the bowden tube is to leave the quick disconnect a turn or two loose, push the tube in and pull out the lock, then tighten the quick disconnect.
 
YZRider said:
Make sure the nozzle is bottomed out on the heat break and not the heater block. Tighten when hot. The trick for the bowden tube is to leave the quick disconnect a turn or two loose, push the tube in and pull out the lock, then tighten the quick disconnect.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I thought that is what I did. The nozzle is about 1/2 turn from bottom and tight. The seepage seams to be coming around the threads of the nozzle.

The first big problem he had was that tube not being seated. I'm wondering if there is buildup and nothing has gone together like it should since.

I will try and force myself to tear it down later. Take pictures as I go.
 
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