What's new

The 3D printer thread

That multicolor printer is bad ass. I could definitely see the benefit of that when making a buck off of it. I'll stick to hand painting the stuff off my cheap Creality for now :laughing:
For sure. The downside is it’s pretty wasteful with the color changes. I’ll have to take a picture of the poop box tomorrow to show all the purge pellets as it swapped colors over the course of the print. That said, the purge amounts don’t change when doing multiples. So for prints I’m going to sell, if I fill the bed with identical models it will in effect reduce the amount of waste that way. I’m also already finding 4 colors limiting. Don’t think it will be too long before I pull the trigger on the AMS hub and a second AMS unit to up my count to 8 colors. Going to attempt to resist the urge to do so for a little bit anyway u til I get this dialed in a bit more and get better at coloring the models in the slicer.
 
For sure. The downside is it’s pretty wasteful with the color changes. I’ll have to take a picture of the poop box tomorrow to show all the purge pellets as it swapped colors over the course of the print. That said, the purge amounts don’t change when doing multiples. So for prints I’m going to sell, if I fill the bed with identical models it will in effect reduce the amount of waste that way. I’m also already finding 4 colors limiting. Don’t think it will be too long before I pull the trigger on the AMS hub and a second AMS unit to up my count to 8 colors. Going to attempt to resist the urge to do so for a little bit anyway u til I get this dialed in a bit more and get better at coloring the models in the slicer.
I've seen the pics of what they crap out - but what is the weight? It looks like a lot but it also looks pretty empty.


Anyone got experience with either the Revo or Rapido hotends? The V6 knockoff that came with my voron kit is starting to already show its mehness. Want to upgrade.

The Revo looks really cool for the nozzle swap and is a little cheaper - but your stuck with their nozzles. The Rapido uses standard nozzles and can seemingly get some amazing flowthrough.

Plus I can yell Rapido! at the printer when I need it to hurry up.
 
I've seen the pics of what they crap out - but what is the weight? It looks like a lot but it also looks pretty empty.


Anyone got experience with either the Revo or Rapido hotends? The V6 knockoff that came with my voron kit is starting to already show its mehness. Want to upgrade.

The Revo looks really cool for the nozzle swap and is a little cheaper - but your stuck with their nozzles. The Rapido uses standard nozzles and can seemingly get some amazing flowthrough.

Plus I can yell Rapido! at the printer when I need it to hurry up.
I've had the Revo going on six months. I had two heater cores crap out, but E3D 2-dayed them from the UK under warranty. They have gotten the issue fixed, but there are still some of the original problematic heater cores out there. I keep a spare just in case.

The Obxidian nozzles which are the hardened version are shipping soon after a long delay. Just saw that someone is selling knock off nozzles now too, $5 a piece or $18 for all four sizes.


I can do a one handed nozzle change as long as the nozzle temp is below 50C. I like it and it is a good system, my biggest gripe is they don't have a silicone sock that covers most of the nozzle face, mine always get PETG boogers sticking too it.
 
I've had the Revo going on six months. I had two heater cores crap out, but E3D 2-dayed them from the UK under warranty. They have gotten the issue fixed, but there are still some of the original problematic heater cores out there. I keep a spare just in case.

The Obxidian nozzles which are the hardened version are shipping soon after a long delay. Just saw that someone is selling knock off nozzles now too, $5 a piece or $18 for all four sizes.


I can do a one handed nozzle change as long as the nozzle temp is below 50C. I like it and it is a good system, my biggest gripe is they don't have a silicone sock that covers most of the nozzle face, mine always get PETG boogers sticking too it.
I really like the revo nozzle design. The only thing drawing me to the Rapido (other than the name) is that it can use the miryad of different M6 nozzles on the market.
 
I've seen the pics of what they crap out - but what is the weight? It looks like a lot but it also looks pretty empty.


Anyone got experience with either the Revo or Rapido hotends? The V6 knockoff that came with my voron kit is starting to already show its mehness. Want to upgrade.

The Revo looks really cool for the nozzle swap and is a little cheaper - but your stuck with their nozzles. The Rapido uses standard nozzles and can seemingly get some amazing flowthrough.

Plus I can yell Rapido! at the printer when I need it to hurry up.

I forgot to look at the weight breakdown vs the model. But this is the poop bucket and the prime tower from the small Kirby print. Honestly I’d say it’s probably pretty close to the weight of the model itself.
C7DB1EEE-7CAF-4B6E-B960-247C1F9E662B.jpeg
 
I forgot to look at the weight breakdown vs the model. But this is the poop bucket and the prime tower from the small Kirby print. Honestly I’d say it’s probably pretty close to the weight of the model itself.
C7DB1EEE-7CAF-4B6E-B960-247C1F9E662B.jpeg
that is the part of multi color that makes me just not interested in it
 
I forgot to look at the weight breakdown vs the model. But this is the poop bucket and the prime tower from the small Kirby print. Honestly I’d say it’s probably pretty close to the weight of the model itself.
C7DB1EEE-7CAF-4B6E-B960-247C1F9E662B.jpeg

I saw that when I read the review here:


How do you fell about that thing if you just ran single color?
 
I saw that when I read the review here:


How do you fell about that thing if you just ran single color?
I actually just did a single color print on it. One of my best selling Cinderwing crystal wing dragons. This particular model at the size I run it, the best I can do on my other printers is about a 24 hour print time. I ran it on the Bambu yesterday. On standard speed mode it was about a 9 hour print. I ran it on sport mode and had it completed in 7 hours! It looks fantastic and clean. So yeah, I’m in love. I can now crank out 4 of these dragons in the time it took to do just one on my other machines.
 
I actually just did a single color print on it. One of my best selling Cinderwing crystal wing dragons. This particular model at the size I run it, the best I can do on my other printers is about a 24 hour print time. I ran it on the Bambu yesterday. On standard speed mode it was about a 9 hour print. I ran it on sport mode and had it completed in 7 hours! It looks fantastic and clean. So yeah, I’m in love. I can now crank out 4 of these dragons in the time it took to do just one on my other machines.

Pic?
 
Ok so here are some pictures of the Cinderwing Crystal wing dragon I did yesterday on the Bambu. This was done on sport mode in 7 and a half hours with adaptive layer height selected. Running stock settings for everything.

BE5884C7-CA89-41A9-A6E4-E5AF6EB1C0DB.jpeg
7E9C0FFE-2921-4F52-BBBE-4AAAECBA734F.jpeg
D9D5F070-F864-4977-A02D-1CDB31A1EFB7.jpeg
590351B7-A8A1-40F8-B912-2249BA493FCF.jpeg


For comparison sake, here is an older one I did on my CR-10S. This was done with a .06 nozzle and .3mm layer height for speed and took about 24.5 hours to complete.
C66E8E6B-24BD-4BC8-A27A-6A6D59C2740B.jpeg
D1BAB95E-038E-4F0C-BDD7-28C57B0FD28E.jpeg


Both of these were done with Ereyone tri color silk filament though I believe with one color being different. You can clearly see the layer lines are more pronounced on the CR-10 printed one.

edit to add there was not even the slightest sign of stringing on the Bambu printed dragon. The one from the CR-10 required some additional stringing clean up post print as well.
 
Last edited:
I don't care anything about trinket stuff, but I must say that prints like the above are quite impressive. My dad liked dragons and I would have printed a couple for him.
 
Last edited:
I don't care anything about trinket stuff, but I must say that prints like the above are quite impressive. My dad liked dragons and would have printer a couple for him.
They sell well for me. And I agree they are really impressive, especially as they print in place and are fully articulated. The joints are strong on these too so they can take some abuse.
 
Do you just find files on the Internets, then print various sizes and sell them at fairs?

or are you drawing / designing these things too?

I do a bit of both. The dragon In particular comes from a Patreon I subscribe to. Frankly I’m not talented enough to design something like this myself. I currently subscribe to two different Patreon. Cinderwing and Hex3D. Cinderwing is known for her dragons and flexy items and she makes some amazing stuff. Usually releases 5 or 6 new models per month. Hex3D has been doing it for 6 years and he makes a ton of pop culture stuff. His latest popular release is a model of Thing from the new Wednsday series on Netflix.

5741F189-5FD6-4765-B7C7-CA8AB8DC01CF.jpeg

he also did a modified NSFW version

1648FD61-6E47-4982-9EF5-BB788E209A10.jpeg


and this Harry Potter Death Eater mask is one of his designs as well

C39FF827-3CBA-4191-A6A7-A87D793CA2F3.jpeg


the Patreon subscriptions give me full access to their designs and files as well as commercial rights to print and sell them. This is pretty important as many of the files you find on the online repositories such as thingiverse, Cults3D, Printables, etc are specified as not for commercial use. There are of course also many that are perfectly fine to print and sell as well.

I do design simpler items that I sell such as my custom vehicle badges, plant tags, and so on. Maybe some day I’ll get good enough at 3D modeling to do really detailed stuff like these models, but I’m far from that as it is right now.
 
I have my ender 5 plus up and running. Probably enclosing it. Things have their edges curl up from the bed during the print. Again stays strong though. Could that just be that my house is 60deg and I was printing at 200?

Any good practical/online/easy first pieces to make? I'm going to print out a tools holder for the printer.

Then I need to get time to model out the things I bought the printer to make. No time for that yet.
 
You guys have hands-on experience with the Anycubic Photon M3 Max?

Have read reviews.

A couple of photos of parts a buddy made. Sub grilles for 10" subs.

1672235765668.png



1672235816160.png
 
I have my ender 5 plus up and running. Probably enclosing it. Things have their edges curl up from the bed during the print. Again stays strong though. Could that just be that my house is 60deg and I was printing at 200?
Put down blue painters' tape on the build surface. It works well on stuff that won't stick.
 
You guys have hands-on experience with the Anycubic Photon M3 Max?

Have read reviews.

A couple of photos of parts a buddy made. Sub grilles for 10" subs.

Not that one in particular, but yes on the resin printer. The newer mono screen ones are nice and much faster. The detail on resin is amazing, you can print thread into stuff, etc.

Biggest issue I found was most of the generally available resins had issues over time. Came out looking great, then 6-12 months later is split in half or shattering. Supposedly that is a big part of why formlabs is much more expensive - far more testing on their resins and long term. After a few I never felt good about trying to use resin parts in long term or sold assemblies due to the issues.

I'm sure there are better ones out there, but I didn't want to bother testing. Ideally having both an FDM and resin is the way to go - you can print pretty much anything at that point
 
I have my ender 5 plus up and running. Probably enclosing it. Things have their edges curl up from the bed during the print. Again stays strong though. Could that just be that my house is 60deg and I was printing at 200?

Any good practical/online/easy first pieces to make? I'm going to print out a tools holder for the printer.

Then I need to get time to model out the things I bought the printer to make. No time for that yet.
I'm still learning as I got my printer right before Christmas but found a few simple ones to test with. I'm not a CAD wizard so I mostly download STLs from Thingiverse and see how it goes. Need to relearn CAD so I can start making originals.

3D Benchy and the rabbit, should be on the SD file the Ender came with.
Pickle Rick cause why not :lmao:.

20221209_010755293_iOS.jpg



20221210_223617576_iOS.jpg


20221210_223610526_iOS.jpg
 
Not that one in particular, but yes on the resin printer. The newer mono screen ones are nice and much faster. The detail on resin is amazing, you can print thread into stuff, etc.

Biggest issue I found was most of the generally available resins had issues over time. Came out looking great, then 6-12 months later is split in half or shattering. Supposedly that is a big part of why formlabs is much more expensive - far more testing on their resins and long term. After a few I never felt good about trying to use resin parts in long term or sold assemblies due to the issues.

I'm sure there are better ones out there, but I didn't want to bother testing. Ideally having both an FDM and resin is the way to go - you can print pretty much anything at that point

My thing is printing with heat tolerant materials for auto use.
 
My thing is printing with heat tolerant materials for auto use.
There are resins that do all sorts of things. Heat, cold, chemical resistance, hard, flexible, etc.

The issue is that most of the hobbiest grade resins are not well documented. Some chinese company toss some shit that hardens at 405nm in a bottle, makes some claims and bobs your uncle. No long term product testing, no real data. So if you but a cheap printer and the basic resin ($20-40/liter) off amazon you will get unpredictable results. Its up to you to test.

If I was doing it for business I would go to formlabs and either get a resin from them or an SLS if you have the money. Then you have lab tested and guaranteed settings, longevity, etc. You are going to pay more, but you are paying for their research and guarantees.
 
I have my ender 5 plus up and running. Probably enclosing it. Things have their edges curl up from the bed during the print. Again stays strong though. Could that just be that my house is 60deg and I was printing at 200?

Any good practical/online/easy first pieces to make? I'm going to print out a tools holder for the printer.

Then I need to get time to model out the things I bought the printer to make. No time for that yet.
I had full intentions of enclosing mine, just haven't gotten around to it

my prints will curl the edges of the raft, but it doesn't make a difference, the print turns out fine

all the 'hardware' for the enclosure can be found on thingaverse for free
 
I bumped my pla bed temp up 10 degrees, amazing how well things stick now. Come off a lot better once I let it cool also.
 
Top Back Refresh