True. Iām still messing with the settings to get dialed in. The stock purge values are higher than they need to be, but when switching from a dark to a light color you want more purge time to prevent bleed thru. Conversely light to dark doesnāt need as much purge time. You can tweak the purge values by color which is why the lighter colors are purging more than the darker ones to hopefully avoid bleed thru. General consensus is to also increase the walls a little to prevent the darker Infill co from showing thru behind the lighter ones.Interesting to see it is going to purge more silver and gold filament than will actually be in the model.
That is cool you can burn off some of the purged waste as infill/supports though.
I did a similar one of these.Bringing this back from the dead. Thanks to 92 Green YJ for the nice info/demo on the X1 Carbon - Ended up buying the combo. So far, the printer has worked flawlessly out of the box and is a big improvement over the Ultimaker 2+. Looking forward to really seeing what this one can do.
Tried something simple for my first multicolor print and results were great.
It really does! Itās downright painful running prints on my Creality machines now. Iām fighting the urge to order a P1P right now. Iām really hoping they release a larger format version soon so o can do full-size helmets at Bambu speeds.My friend just bought the x1c holy crap does that thing print fast.
Have not played with faster speeds just yet. Next attempts will be to try multi material prints with the support interface materials. I've been less then impressed but the undersides of supported overhangs. The supports pop off easily (no tweaking of settings on my end), but the surface is not pretty. Hoping that using an interface material will allow for a more solid/prettier supported surface that is still easy to remove.Ran it on ludicrous speed just because which explains the layer lines.
And Iāve now added a second AMS unit to mine so I can go in up to 8 colors now. I found the 4 colors limiting. Painted this up for a customer. Wiring on some white PETG to arrive to print it.
it's gonna be super cool if you can do tpu overmolding or something on a 3d printed tool or object.Its nice that additional AMS units can be added. I'm less interested in multicolor for my uses, but having a selection of materials with the interface materials ready to roll is great.
Also looking forward to my first trials of flexible materials. I see that these are best fed directly from the spool holder vs. from the AMS, we'll see how that goes.
Yeah Bambu doesnāt recommend running flexible materials thru the AMS. I have a couple rolls of PVA floating around which is a water dissolvable filament. I havenāt checked to see if the AMS will handle it yet or not but that may be worth trying for supports.it's gonna be super cool if you can do tpu overmolding or something on a 3d printed tool or object.
I've printed a little bit of it and it worked for shit in anything other than a direct extruder. I have no idea how the filament switcher works on those.
If you have any success with the PVA, I may hit you up about printing me some test pieces.Yeah Bambu doesnāt recommend running flexible materials thru the AMS. I have a couple rolls of PVA floating around which is a water dissolvable filament. I havenāt checked to see if the AMS will handle it yet or not but that may be worth trying for supports.
Great starter choice. Be prepared to end up spending 20x that on mods and filamentJust got this $99 Ender 3 pro @ microcenter.
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Prusaslicer supports are much better, easier to remove and less damage on the modelwhat do you all have for your support settings that work in cura?
the parts that touch my supports always look like complete ass
what do you all have for your support settings that work in cura?
the parts that touch my supports always look like complete ass
Prusaslicer supports are much better, easier to remove and less damage on the model
I donāt think TPU is body safe. If it were me, I would make a mold off the model then pour it with some actual body safe silicone.I printed V2 of a buttplug for my wife out of TPU. Sheās just the type of woman that likes my dirtiness and my nerdiness, so this is perfect. The seam down the side of the thing is pretty sharp, though, and it leaves a sharp tip on the top. So, on version one, I smeared a very strong TPU solvent on it to smooth those things off. That worked fairly well, but it ate a small hole in the top of the V1 plug while trying to smooth off the sharp point. V2 has a less pointy point, and was printed with 3 wall loops, so weāll see if that allows me to do the chemical smoothing while maintaining water tightness.
Such are the dilemmas of prototyping.
I donāt think TPU is body safe. If it were me, I would make a mold off the model then pour it with some actual body safe silicone.
my brother bought a small tent enclosure for his prusa machine. It worked out OK. I'm probably going to do the same.Anyone have any experience with the sermoon printers?
Got one from marketplace the other day. Thought it would be enclosed and I would use it for ABS. Turns out it's not really enclosed, and has an open top so I've got to make something for the top if I want to print ABS stuff.
Yeah I mean, Iāve seen prints come apart with the occasional bad layer adhesion. Just imagining that happening internally and the issues thy could potentially cause. Then the questionability of the safety rod the material itself too. Just not worth the risks. But yeah, would be a great way to make a mold for some proper material.
Seriously, thanks for the heads up. I'll continue to prototype size and shape on TPU (single use only), then cast it out of silicone once she gives the thumbs up.
Iāve definitely wondered about the mechanical toughness of it. A good print in TPU of anything is shockingly tough. Like you said, the question is about how predictable are the prints, not about how strong are the good ones. So these get a pretty violent āIām going to try to rip the safety collar offā test in my hands before any further testing.Yeah I mean, Iāve seen prints come apart with the occasional bad layer adhesion. Just imagining that happening internally and the issues thy could potentially cause. Then the questionability of the safety rod the material itself too. Just not worth the risks. But yeah, would be a great way to make a mold for some proper material.
I donāt think TPU is body safe. If it were me, I would make a mold off the model then pour it with some actual body safe silicone.