92 Green YJ
General Lee Jeep
Easy enough to cut up the whole hand piece in the slicer to do that.
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The 3D printer thread
- Thread starter scooter2374
- Start date
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
3 hours to go
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
It finished!
Now on to the back. Having hell getting started, that dip in the center is back. I think since I used a heat mat under the glass the tin foil spacer just sank into the mat. I think I'll try and switch to the pei sheet and magnetic bed?
I realized it with a raft it seems easier to get started because the raft lines are all just straight.
Now on to the back. Having hell getting started, that dip in the center is back. I think since I used a heat mat under the glass the tin foil spacer just sank into the mat. I think I'll try and switch to the pei sheet and magnetic bed?
I realized it with a raft it seems easier to get started because the raft lines are all just straight.
aczlan
Good Morning!
Especially with something tall and skinny like that.
Can you print it with the concave side up (so it's printing a flat piece with "walls and turrets")?It finished!
Now on to the back. Having hell getting started, that dip in the center is back. I think since I used a heat mat under the glass the tin foil spacer just sank into the mat. I think I'll try and switch to the pei sheet and magnetic bed?
I realized it with a raft it seems easier to get started because the raft lines are all just straight.
Aaron Z
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I just printed it according to the instructions, they suggest face up so the finish is good, I think it came out good.
I'll hit the bag end on some sand paper to remove the rest of the supports/raft.
The back is running now. Got tired of fucking with the octopi webcam so I used my portable security cam. I never really liked octopi much, it doesn't jive with my printers firmware so its clunky. I only used it because I was trying to leave the printer in my shop and print remotely, that isn't gonna work.
What in the fuck are you taking about? Are you doing it wrong?I just printed it according to the instructions, they suggest face up so the finish is good, I think it came out good.
I'll hit the bag end on some sand paper to remove the rest of the supports/raft.
The back is running now. Got tired of fucking with the octopi webcam so I used my portable security cam. I never really liked octopi much, it doesn't jive with my printers firmware so its clunky. I only used it because I was trying to leave the printer in my shop and print remotely, that isn't gonna work.
Octoprint is awesome.
Set it up once, save the settings. Install the plug-in for your slicer of choice. Then just hit print.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Not a clue what I'm talking about, if you are keeping track I abandoned this shit 5 years ago cause I had no success.
It's not any trouble at this point to save to SD, the USB port is 18" from the printer.
Bacho
Yellow Skull
I never had too much trouble getting PLA to stick to the glass bed, sounds to me like your temperatures a little low.
Right now I print everything with PETG, and the PEI sheet is the way to go IMO. That said it’s not exactly fool proof. I did have pretty good luck using blue masking tape over the glass bed for about a year before I bought the sheets.
Right now I print everything with PETG, and the PEI sheet is the way to go IMO. That said it’s not exactly fool proof. I did have pretty good luck using blue masking tape over the glass bed for about a year before I bought the sheets.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I think most of the problem is unlevel or inconsistent bed flatness.
Temps might play a role as well
Printing a raft seems to get me a workable print but sucks for the additional time.
I got the PEI setup on the desk, just waiting to get this project completeish before tearing it down again.
Bacho
Yellow Skull
I added the touch sensor to mine. It’s a better experience wasn’t really that difficult.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
That's a option too, I'm not against it either. If this was a milling machine it would be foolish to only set z height with a piece of paper.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Success! PLA probably not ideal for dirt bike handlebar controls but this will get me to testing phase.
richardskinner
Well-known member
I'd count it as good experience, throw that shit away, and reprint in PETg. PLA will warp and get brittle quickly in the sun. Might as well start the project from a better material.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Set me up with some PETg parameters...
Bacho
Yellow Skull
245* nozzle, 75* bed, 45mm/s, 3mm retraction.
Don’t even bother trying to print straight to the glass, printing to blue masking tape will work. you need a bigger nozzle to surface gap, adjust it until the layer has some squash to it but it’s not flattened
Don’t even bother trying to print straight to the glass, printing to blue masking tape will work. you need a bigger nozzle to surface gap, adjust it until the layer has some squash to it but it’s not flattened
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
PEI be ok?
Any reason to not set it up to a .xx mm dimension?
Bacho
Yellow Skull
PEI will work. A buddy of mine uses of pebbled surface was pretty consistent results. My sheets are smooth and not quite as reliable as I would like.
You could set that up as a dimension, but I don’t know what that would be without doing some head scratching. If your gap in your nozzle now with one sheet try three or four sheets.
You could set that up as a dimension, but I don’t know what that would be without doing some head scratching. If your gap in your nozzle now with one sheet try three or four sheets.
SomeGuyFromOlympia
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 31, 2020
- Member Number
- 1706
- Messages
- 943
I got mine with the intention of trying nylon, but haven't deemed to get the time to get everything set up to do so
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Still burning through this new roll of PLA, and shits actually working!
I got this Sermoon d1 "enclosed" printer on a trade for a red cordless bandsaw I never used.
Finally got it set up and running after moving and I like it a lot. It is kind of an oddball printer though. Creality doesn't have much on it.
Added a CR-touch probe, and a magnetic PEI build plate thing. Also picked up an RPI 4 for octoprint.
I was thinking i'd need to make a top cover for it to print ABS, but it seems to do fine without it. I never managed to print ABS at all with the Ender 5.
Finally got it set up and running after moving and I like it a lot. It is kind of an oddball printer though. Creality doesn't have much on it.
Added a CR-touch probe, and a magnetic PEI build plate thing. Also picked up an RPI 4 for octoprint.
I was thinking i'd need to make a top cover for it to print ABS, but it seems to do fine without it. I never managed to print ABS at all with the Ender 5.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Spent waaayyy too long in SketchUp on some oval tubing clamps for a pool side table. Sketchup has been really fucked by getting sold off to Trimble, the "solid tools" I needed to get the model ready for 3d printing are a "paid upgrade" now.
I imported the stl into TinkerCAD and fuck me what another learning curve. I finally got a gimpse of a grasp and was able to just rebuild the model entirely in TinkerCAD.
It's printing now, I'm sure nothing about it is accurate.
I imported the stl into TinkerCAD and fuck me what another learning curve. I finally got a gimpse of a grasp and was able to just rebuild the model entirely in TinkerCAD.
It's printing now, I'm sure nothing about it is accurate.
SomeGuyFromOlympia
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 31, 2020
- Member Number
- 1706
- Messages
- 943
Seriously, try Onshape. It’s far more intuitive to me—I can’t draw shit in sketchup. Never tried tinkercad, though.
Donk
Piss Artist Formerly Known As OllieNZ
Tinkercad is by Autodesk so it'll probably be a good gateway to Fusion 360
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
IMO it's not a good comparison to any parametric modeler I have ever used
I'll try OnShape, I really need a Linux capable program if possible.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Once I figured out how to assign dimensions to the parts it got a lot easier.dude
Tinker CAD is aimed at the 10 y/o crowd
I never said I was smart but I can model anything I want in SketchUp.
Fusion 360 I had a 25% success rate...
Clemson13
Evernoob is a douchcanoe
I can model reasonably complicated things in solid works & pro E. Never been able to get fusion 360 to be worth a shit.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
It's still working!
I had to unfuck a radius/diameter error from switching to TinkerCAD (diameter) from Sketchup (radius)
This should have been made with supports but I really don't care too much as is this a hidden pipe clamp.
Sketchup left too many segments in the curve, the TinkerCAD part is much smoother on the default settings.
I had to unfuck a radius/diameter error from switching to TinkerCAD (diameter) from Sketchup (radius)
This should have been made with supports but I really don't care too much as is this a hidden pipe clamp.
Sketchup left too many segments in the curve, the TinkerCAD part is much smoother on the default settings.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Signed up for OnShape, damn another learning curve.
I'll run through some tutorials and see if I can get it to click.
I'll run through some tutorials and see if I can get it to click.
Make that same bracket thing you just printed. Just start a sketch on one of the planes, draw your rectangle with an arc cut out of it. Then click the extrude button, extrude it out 1/2” or whatever, then you just have to do a secondary sketch on the flat side to make the circles, then extrude them into holes. Tutorials would be a great idea, I’ve always just beat my head against it. The steps to draw something are just like they were for pro/e 20 years ago.