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Slowpoke attempts to kill himself in a golfcart!

Engine is out and the head is off. I'm happy to report that the cam and cam journals in the head are fine and it's going to be 100% reusable after it gets disassembled and given a good cleaning. :smokin:

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The cylinder walls didn't make out so well. These bitches have to be at least .090 over judging by how much of the top ring I can see around the piston. :lmao:

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You can also see a bunch of little dings in the piston at the top. Those are from the broken spark plug porcelain that cylinder ate the first time I raced it after the last rebuild. Head has similar dings, visible in the picture above, but those will be taken care of when the head get cleaned up so no big deal. I can't tell you how relieved I am that the damage isn't much worse!!

I'm going to strip the bottom end down tomorrow and try to get the block boxed up and shipped out to the sleeve guy on Friday. With any luck the custom pistons will arrive early next week so the machine shop will be able to finish hone the sleeves and send everything back fairly quickly. 🤞
 
Another thing I forgot to mention...... Engine guy found me a pair of brand new Crower rods with ARP 625+ bolts on FB in Pennsylvania this morning for a great price. I got in touch with the guy earlier, got a bunch of pictures and then bought them. He is shipping them out tomorrow so i should see them mid next week. With the new compression ratio I'll be running I don't think the stock rods are going to cut it anymore so finding these for a decent deal was pretty awesome and couldn't have come along at a better time.
 
I got the trailer cleaned out and organized Friday night and got to work on pulling the bottom end apart last night after it cooled off. There was a fuckton of dirt/grit in the oil pan and even more hiding in the rear sump and filter housings but from what I've seen so far it looks like everything else is ok and sleeves, pistons, gaskets and bearings will get this turd fixed up......

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I think that while the engine is apart I'm going to take the flywheel off and see if bdkw1 can work some of his magic to lighten it up. Nothing crazy to the point of it stalling every time I hit the brakes but enough to let the engine rev a little quicker than it does now and free up some horsepower...

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bdkw1 said:
Needs closed deck mod like they do on subarus.
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These custom sleeves from Darton are available if I want them but are extremely pricey and not a requirement for an N/A engine so I'm going to pass on those and just get the regular sleeves.

Engine guy is running 30lbs of boost with those Darton sleeves with zero issues. :smokin:

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redneckK20s said:
I'm sure you have but look over the oil pumps really well. You can buy the entire case section they come in with the pumps for not a ton of money, we had to do it on a Pioneer not long ago.
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I'm going to pull the pumps apart, inspect and clean them thoroughly and only change the gears/rotors in them unless the housings themselves are wiped out. I'm not trying to be a cheap skate but money is tight right now and I wasn't expecting to have to rebuild/upgrade the engine so soon but stupid hurts and here we are.:laughing:



If it's worse than I think it is once I pull it apart I will bite the bullet and order the complete section.
 
bdkw1 said:
From the looks of it, there's a lot of extra material on the flywheel.
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I think so too. My only concern is I don't know how thick the magnets are that are in there vs how thick that outer ring is. I'd assume if it's machined too thin the magnets may want to fly out the back at 10k RPM and tear a bunch of shit up. :laughing:
 
bdkw1 said:
Gay.
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Engine machine shop guy said there is a company that can bore and nikasil plate the blocks back to stock size but because the aluminum cylinders tend to move around a few thousandths with heat cycles putting a thicker than stock sleeve in it is the better way to go for a racing application.
 
Nikasil can be done on top of the stock sleeves. The moving around comment, see solid deck........
 
arse_sidewards said:
The 8000RPM Honda B-series guys will tell you that a drop in insert gets you 99% of the way there.
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Yeah, but if it was nikasil to begin with, I doubt there would be enough wear to be worried about. Slap new pistons in and go.

Better oil retention, less friction, better heat transfer, more matched thermal growth allowing for tighter tolerances. Nikasil beats liners everywhere but durability to shitty fuel.
 
bdkw1 said:
Yeah, but if it was nikasil to begin with, I doubt there would be enough wear to be worried about.
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Open deck flopping around makes the head gasket live a short life. If he fixed the pistons he might not actually gain all that much life because the next weak link could be near.

That said, I 110% vote nikasil. That shit is magic.
 
What do you plan to use to clean all of this ?
 
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