chaplinfj60
Well-known member
cali wont let you run fuel cell in back of truck?
No they will fail me for visual on smog. I have some buddys that can't smog because of that. I could move the tank to the bed but I still run the risk of not passing smog and I want the room for tripscali wont let you run fuel cell in back of truck?
My evap canister is on top the tank so not sure it would mount any higher. Is yours attached to the tank? New frame rails would be sweet but thats a big can of worms to. I should probablly just plate the inside since the outside is arleady platedNo matter what you do, raise the fuel tank up, you can get it raised another 2+". I should have done that like 10yrs ago, makes a huge difference. I say chop the whole ass end of the truck off and replace with square tube and drop the bed back on it. I got my rails bent to my specs locally (they ship if you want the name), and just scabbed them in. I could see Frenching the lower link mounts into the frame rails, or where they start to kick up and it being pretty awesome, pending geometry of course.
My evap is by the tank, I made some brackets for it between the frame and a new cross member.My evap canister is on top the tank so not sure it would mount any higher. Is yours attached to the tank? New frame rails would be sweet but thats a big can of worms to. I should probablly just plate the inside since the outside is arleady plated
Ya my evap looks just like that, Im not sure if they flag it for relocating evap box, I need to ask a smog guy to see what he saysMy evap is by the tank, I made some brackets for it between the frame and a new cross member.
eimkeith makes a kit to raise the fuel tank and the factory cross member. Tacoma Fuel Tank Lift![]()
Does yours look like this now? This is how mine was from the factory.
![]()
I do need to find a county that has no smog lol.Is there a law saying you have to keep factory tank location? Or is it just the idiot at the smog station just saying "hurdur, you messed with it, go see the ref"
You ca guys really need to register your stuff in a non smog County, it's not that hard.
I did also have a smog guy that was also a wheeler and would just hit nextnextnextnext through the visual part. As long as the sniffer worked, I was gtg
Either way, I don't think there is anything wrong with a parallel link system with a panhard. I've seen a few JKs with an upper outside the frame. I'd be tempted to try and get a 4 link in there just to spread the load out for axle wrap.
there are more non smog county's in CA than people realize. Most thay are outside LA, bay area or Central valley.
for ownership the no smog counties are good, when you want to sell it makes it a problem
They really scrutinize to the point where if you moved it a foot back and up and turned it at a 30* angle they will fail it? I'm used to "is the CEL on? No then you pass" level of emissions inspection so just curious.Ya my evap looks just like that, Im not sure if they flag it for relocating evap box, I need to ask a smog guy to see what he says
for ownership the no smog counties are good, when you want to sell it makes it a problem
I sold a jeep to a guy up in the boonies of CA and we talked about this, he’s registered every shit box he’s purchased as a family gift. No smog on family gift apparently. And no smog in his county.True, because even the no smog counties require smog on transfer.
so I thought the same thing and tried to mount the bolts the other way but then the crossmember can't be removed. It has to be set up this way in order for it to unbolt and slide backwards.hear me out....
this is my wild thought process here... you tcase mount is basically solid. because it cant rotate up or down with the engine. so your engine will rotate with torque but it wont rotate at the same rate as the tcase. my thought process is each mount should have the bolts parralel to the floor. 90 degrees from the way the tcase mount bolts are. thats my way i am looking at it. maybe i am wrong just think on it....
but it does look good and fancy. you will love the eco box.
I tried that to but Todd said that wouldn't be strong enough so I went back to the bolts facing up and down like the FROR crossmember originally hada bushing without a sleeve may give you enough movement to keep things happy, but i think i would try to change the orientation of those bolts somehow if it were me. maybe have that mounting plate bolt to the crossmember so it's two separate pieces? or have the crossmember bolted solid to the frame and have your bushings at the mounting plate?
I had to cut the tunnel for the shift plate on the actual tcase since the heims were getting into the tunnel. The front half also needed a little trimming to clear the arms. I think you could do 10 degrees and get away with it but my motor is also raised like 2.5" over stock so that doesn't helpDid you cut up the trans tunnel because of the triple shifters? I'm hoping to clock my eco crawler either 10º or 16º but I hope I'm not needing to cut up anything.
but the for cross member had a bushing on top and on bottom so you get the same torque flex from front to back. with a plate on top and plate below it cant move. does that make since?I tried that to but Todd said that wouldn't be strong enough so I went back to the bolts facing up and down like the FROR crossmember originally had![]()