chaplinfj60
Well-known member
cali wont let you run fuel cell in back of truck?
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No they will fail me for visual on smog. I have some buddys that can't smog because of that. I could move the tank to the bed but I still run the risk of not passing smog and I want the room for trips
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
thats sucks bad....
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
What about just good leafs that aren't chevys?
Slander
Team no stickys
No matter what you do, raise the fuel tank up, you can get it raised another 2+". I should have done that like 10yrs ago, makes a huge difference. I say chop the whole ass end of the truck off and replace with square tube and drop the bed back on it. I got my rails bent to my specs locally (they ship if you want the name), and just scabbed them in. I could see Frenching the lower link mounts into the frame rails, or where they start to kick up and it being pretty awesome, pending geometry of course.
My evap canister is on top the tank so not sure it would mount any higher. Is yours attached to the tank? New frame rails would be sweet but thats a big can of worms to. I should probablly just plate the inside since the outside is arleady plated
Slander
Team no stickys
My evap is by the tank, I made some brackets for it between the frame and a new cross member.
Does yours look like this now? This is how mine was from the factory.
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YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Is there a law saying you have to keep factory tank location? Or is it just the idiot at the smog station just saying "hurdur, you messed with it, go see the ref"
You ca guys really need to register your stuff in a non smog County, it's not that hard.
I did also have a smog guy that was also a wheeler and would just hit nextnextnextnext through the visual part. As long as the sniffer worked, I was gtg
Either way, I don't think there is anything wrong with a parallel link system with a panhard. I've seen a few JKs with an upper outside the frame. I'd be tempted to try and get a 4 link in there just to spread the load out for axle wrap.
You ca guys really need to register your stuff in a non smog County, it's not that hard.
I did also have a smog guy that was also a wheeler and would just hit nextnextnextnext through the visual part. As long as the sniffer worked, I was gtg
Either way, I don't think there is anything wrong with a parallel link system with a panhard. I've seen a few JKs with an upper outside the frame. I'd be tempted to try and get a 4 link in there just to spread the load out for axle wrap.
Ya my evap looks just like that, Im not sure if they flag it for relocating evap box, I need to ask a smog guy to see what he saysMy evap is by the tank, I made some brackets for it between the frame and a new cross member.
eimkeith makes a kit to raise the fuel tank and the factory cross member. Tacoma Fuel Tank Lift
Does yours look like this now? This is how mine was from the factory.
I do need to find a county that has no smog lol.Is there a law saying you have to keep factory tank location? Or is it just the idiot at the smog station just saying "hurdur, you messed with it, go see the ref"
You ca guys really need to register your stuff in a non smog County, it's not that hard.
I did also have a smog guy that was also a wheeler and would just hit nextnextnextnext through the visual part. As long as the sniffer worked, I was gtg
Either way, I don't think there is anything wrong with a parallel link system with a panhard. I've seen a few JKs with an upper outside the frame. I'd be tempted to try and get a 4 link in there just to spread the load out for axle wrap.
My other thought it get some 2.5 coilovers and run then without springs for now so my rigs not down for months. Just outboard them and throw on the air bumps I have sitting and wheel it this yr like that. Got a lot of JV desert trips coming up.
A back half with 4 link would be more ideal than the 3link idea
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
there are more non smog county's in CA than people realize. Most thay are outside LA, bay area or Central valley.
When I said 4 link, I meant parallel with a panhard. Not as cool, but can be very functional.
When I said 4 link, I meant parallel with a panhard. Not as cool, but can be very functional.
for ownership the no smog counties are good, when you want to sell it makes it a problem
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
True, because even the no smog counties require smog on transfer.
Slander
Team no stickys
They really scrutinize to the point where if you moved it a foot back and up and turned it at a 30* angle they will fail it? I'm used to "is the CEL on? No then you pass" level of emissions inspection so just curious.
Motiracer38
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2023
- Member Number
- 6381
- Messages
- 51
I mounted the tank across the front of the bed on one truck and behind the axle on another. Best they could come up with was the angle of the filler neck should match stock but otherwise would pass the pre-OBD test only at a few different places around northern LA area. My cousin found a friendly place that would pas his fuel cell equipped truck that had all stock plumbing. Said the guy was real nervous though.
I sold a jeep to a guy up in the boonies of CA and we talked about this, he’s registered every shit box he’s purchased as a family gift. No smog on family gift apparently. And no smog in his county.
Mike Honcho
Red Skull Member
Ecoboxes are so hot right now
Got the first case built, using a J shift case out of a 98-02 4runner to swap out my electronic shifting tcase. Now I have to take the planetary gears out of my Electric shift case to put into the Eco box.
That Front range offroad crossmember was a huge pain in the ass to pull, might chop it up and modify it or go back to OEM style trans mounts to integrate into my skid/crossmember
That Front range offroad crossmember was a huge pain in the ass to pull, might chop it up and modify it or go back to OEM style trans mounts to integrate into my skid/crossmember
The eco box is built, I clocked it at 6degrees initially and it hung down way to low so I relocked it at the maximum 16 degrees and cut the trans tunnel out to essentially flat belly it. I got it as high as I could without modifying the seat rails since those get in the way.
Now I am trying to figure out how to do a removeable skid system that still allows me to remove the front range offroad crossmember that I hacked up and modified
Now I am trying to figure out how to do a removeable skid system that still allows me to remove the front range offroad crossmember that I hacked up and modified
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
hear me out....
this is my wild thought process here... you tcase mount is basically solid. because it cant rotate up or down with the engine. so your engine will rotate with torque but it wont rotate at the same rate as the tcase. my thought process is each mount should have the bolts parralel to the floor. 90 degrees from the way the tcase mount bolts are. thats my way i am looking at it. maybe i am wrong just think on it....
but it does look good and fancy. you will love the eco box.
this is my wild thought process here... you tcase mount is basically solid. because it cant rotate up or down with the engine. so your engine will rotate with torque but it wont rotate at the same rate as the tcase. my thought process is each mount should have the bolts parralel to the floor. 90 degrees from the way the tcase mount bolts are. thats my way i am looking at it. maybe i am wrong just think on it....
but it does look good and fancy. you will love the eco box.
so I thought the same thing and tried to mount the bolts the other way but then the crossmember can't be removed. It has to be set up this way in order for it to unbolt and slide backwards.
The FROR crossmember original mounts were also oriented the same way and I never had any issues with them (ran it for 2yrs ), not sure how else I could get it to work
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
again i maybe over thinking stuff. i do that from time to time
just stare at and get a couple other opinions before you burn it in solid.
just stare at and get a couple other opinions before you burn it in solid.
4RunnerKid
McHale's Navy
a bushing without a sleeve may give you enough movement to keep things happy, but i think i would try to change the orientation of those bolts somehow if it were me. maybe have that mounting plate bolt to the crossmember so it's two separate pieces? or have the crossmember bolted solid to the frame and have your bushings at the mounting plate?
I tried that to but Todd said that wouldn't be strong enough so I went back to the bolts facing up and down like the FROR crossmember originally had
I had to cut the tunnel for the shift plate on the actual tcase since the heims were getting into the tunnel. The front half also needed a little trimming to clear the arms. I think you could do 10 degrees and get away with it but my motor is also raised like 2.5" over stock so that doesn't help
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
but the for cross member had a bushing on top and on bottom so you get the same torque flex from front to back. with a plate on top and plate below it cant move. does that make since?I tried that to but Todd said that wouldn't be strong enough so I went back to the bolts facing up and down like the FROR crossmember originally had