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Ray Charles Tacoma build

chays2464

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2020
Member Number
2753
Messages
304
Loc
SLO CA
Hey guys,

this is my first build so figured I would post the progress.

OLD setup pre Sept 2022

Picked up this 02 Tacoma (103k miles on the 3.4) with a 3 link and a d44 (5.38s, Reid knuckles with ARB and Yukon Chromo shafts), stock rear axle (5.29s, elocker) on chevy 63s with an auto trans for a deal. I thought I would just need to redo the front links, that snowballed into rebuilding the whole truck. Truck looked like Ray Charles welded everything on it blindfolded. Huge thanks to my buddies colinsmithslo and @Pedaltodd for all the help along the way

I sourced all parts from PolyPerformance

Current setup Sept 2022 to present:

Axles 2005 Ford F250 with factory 3.73 gears
Steering:
ram: PSC-SC2200K
hose kit: PSC-HK2015
Resi: PSC-SR146K-6-12
pump: PSC-SP1200X-6-12 (drill out upper bolt hole on pump)
pump bracket: TRG-301077-KIT
pulley: PSC-PP2456
adapter for pump to go to -6, -12 feed: PSC-SF06 and PSC-SF07


Front Specs:
Fox 2.0 air bumps:
Fox 2.5x12" coilovers with DSC adjusters:

Custom 3 link using:
Synergy Manufacturing Double adjusters:
PolyP Johnny joint kits:
Synergy Dual Durometer bushings:


PolyP 3 link brackets:
PolyP limit straps
Fk Heims for steering
Links are all 2" DOM

Rear:
Chevy 63s
homemade hangers
vato zone shocks for now

Sitting on 15" steelies with the 2.5" backspace on 37" Iroks (Old setup)
40x13.5x17 procomp MT2s
Raceline Monster beadlocks 4.75" backspace

Gears Revolution 5.38s
REV-D60-538RT
REV-F10.25-538L
REV-K35-2034
REV-K35-2046

Stock Auto trans with an old frontrange crossmember

T100 Booster (orillys) BH2 532791
T100 1 ton Master Cylinder 1 1/16" bore from Rock Auto Part number: Centric 13044722 (130.44722), or Dorman M390149
2WD Radiator (rock auto) OSC 1778
Radiator Hose (rock auto) GATES 22120

homemade sliders and rear bumper that were on the truck
front bumper is a marlin bumper off a second gen pickup (or so I was told)

Pics will be in order of build progression, bare with me as I figure out this thread thing

One ton Build starts on page 4
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I started out by fixing the core support, cutting off the old shock towers and moving the steering box as far forward as I could get it.


I tried to re-use the existing frame plates but should have just cut the frame off from the get go. Lesson learned
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Once I got all the brackets cut off and frame clean we rolled the axle under the truck to start mocking up track bar placement.

I used a PolyP track bar bracket with FK 7/8" Heims

I made a new Tie rod with some 1 3/4" 120wall DOM and used PolyP weld bungs with 3/4" FK heims

I used a Synergy track bar bracket from the rear of a JK for my track bar mount and an upper link bracket I found in the scrap bin
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Once I got steering in place and made sure drag link and track bar played well we started on links

Made them out of 2" DOM and bent them to clear 40s. Tons of cycling and tacking and cutting
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Bent some hoops up for the new 12" coilovers and got those on then cycled everything with a 40" tire to make sure everything clears at full droop and full bump
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We frenched the bumps into the frame to clear the coilover springs and I added some 1.5" wheel spacers to make sure the tires stay out of the springs

We used a an old messed up bump to mock up so the cans wouldn't warp when we fully welded them

I added a engine brace to keep the shock hoops from moving inward
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I final welded all the brackets and added gussets where they were needed, made a temporary trans skid then took the truck out for a test drive.

Found out I had no brakes, the GM master to T100 booster was not working at all for me so I spent literally weeks chasing brake issues before I got it figured out.
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Those before pics made me cringe so badly. Seriously painful to see.

I'm so glad you chopped off everything for a fresh start. After dealing with my Taco and seeing others' issues, I agree that chopping the frame at the firewall is the best path to get a good build. Too late for both of us though. :flipoff2:
 
After bleeding brakes 9 separate times, I ended up replacing the booster, master, all pads and calipers on the front and completely rebuilt the rear brake drums. Once I did all that I had brakes.

I ended up using a 2wd T100 Dually 1 Ton master Cylinder and a T100 dual Diaphram Brake Booster

Once I got all that addressed, it was time to take the taco on a shakedown run to bald mountain
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Took the truck out on its first real trip to the Rubicon over the summer with @Colinsmithslo

Made it up soup bowl second try and ran old sluice with minimal body damage

Blew an ARB fuse, a bead on a tire and an axle seal but other than that it worked great! Links make a huge difference over my old leaf spring 3rd gen 4runner
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After Rubicon I found out I cracked my steering box ( my frame plate wasn't perfectly flat), all balljoints needed to be replaced, wheel bearings, and a spindle as well as a knuckle stud, I should have went through the axle before but lesson learned
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I did all that work on that axle only to find out the housing was bent after I got it back under the truck, oh well I am only into it like 300$ so not a big deal. I guess I need to start looking into a 9" or 60 front axle.

Truck has been great since fixing all those issues.

Next trip I took it on was Thanksgiving at Hammers with our usual crew, I had a hub not engaging, figured out I was missing a spring inside the hub gear. Found a spare and wheeled the rest of the trip no issues.

Ran Resolution in 3 wheel drive, then did Blueberry and Guacamole
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Those before pics made me cringe so badly. Seriously painful to see.

I'm so glad you chopped off everything for a fresh start. After dealing with my Taco and seeing others' issues, I agree that chopping the frame at the firewall is the best path to get a good build. Too late for both of us though. :flipoff2:
It would have been a lot easier and cleaner. if I ever swap to tons or a 9" I will probably chop the frame
 
I wonder what was holding that rear leaf spring mount onto the frame, looks like the weld missed entirely
The gaps were filled with bailing wire, when I cut those perches off a bunch of wire fell out lol
 
After JV, I decided to finally fix the rear leaf set up.

I got rid of the 12" shackles, plated the frame and made some new shackle hangers with the press brake and some Poly Cage tie in kits for the rear shackles

I trimmed fenders and rear bumper more since they were hitting the tires

Tucks sitting at 24" to bottom of the frame on 37s aired up to 35 psi. Pulling around 4.5" of uptravel

Pic of old shackle hanger next to new ones in here
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Hey guys,

this is my first build so figured I would post the progress.

Picked up this 02 Tacoma (103k miles on the 3.4) with a 3 link and a d44 (5.38s, Reid knuckles with ARB and Yukon Chromo shafts), stock rear axle (5.29s, elocker) on chevy 63s with an auto trans for a deal. I thought I would just need to redo the front links, that snowballed into rebuilding the whole truck. Truck looked like Ray Charles welded everything on it blindfolded. Huge thanks to my buddies @Colinsmithslo and @Pedaltodd for all the help along the way

I sourced all parts from PolyPerformance (links provided)

Front Specs:
Fox 2.0 air bumps:
Fox 2.5x12" coilovers with DSC adjusters: shorturl.at/bmpFG

Custom 3 link using:
Synergy Manufacturing Double adjusters: shorturl.at/cnBPX
PolyP Johnny joint kits: shorturl.at/pEFQ4
Synergy Dual Durometer bushings: shorturl.at/ntyG1


PolyP 3 link brackets:
PolyP limit straps
Fk Heims for steering
Links are all 2" DOM

Rear:
Chevy 63s
homemade hangers
vato zone shocks for now

Sitting on 15" steelies with the 2.5" backspace on 37" Iroks

Stock Auto trans with an old frontrange crossmember
2wd radiator with stock pump

homemade sliders and rear bumper that were on the truck
front bumper is a marlin bumper off a second gen pickup (or so I was told)

Pics will be in order of build progression, bare with me as I figure out this thread thing
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Colin slo is your bud. i love his vids. too damn cool

say him from a fan.

cheers
 
Haven't done much on the taco since the rear leaf set up. I am working on wiring up a winch I scored for a deal. An trail gear discontinued winch. Debating if I should chop the grille to mount the control box or rewire it into the engine bay to keep it clean
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Here's how I did my warn:
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It's tucked between the grill and the radiator and secured with a big ass zip tie to the grill. It's been like that since 2006 and no issues! It fits in there like it was made for it!
 
Here's how I did my warn:
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It's tucked between the grill and the radiator and secured with a big ass zip tie to the grill. It's been like that since 2006 and no issues! It fits in there like it was made for it!
not like your frame is any different than the OP's... :flipoff2:
 
Here's how I did my warn:
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It's tucked between the grill and the radiator and secured with a big ass zip tie to the grill. It's been like that since 2006 and no issues! It fits in there like it was made for it!
If my frame was like that I’d go for it but I like how high my winch will sit right now
 
not like your frame is any different than the OP's... :flipoff2:

If my frame was like that I’d go for it but I like how high my winch will sit right now
I was talking about the location of the control box behind the grill. It's been like that since the truck was IFS, one of the first mods done to it. I didn't articulate that good enough.
 
I was talking about the location of the control box behind the grill. It's been like that since the truck was IFS, one of the first mods done to it. I didn't articulate that good enough.
That makes sense, thats not a bad idea. Ill see if I have room with all the coolers I have behind the grille
 
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