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75RamRunner said:
dude i fought going to a 6.4 for so long, especially when i went 8speed. It just made a lot of sense but i couldnt bring myself to abandon the big block. It just makes me smile. I know direct port would be better, im hoping Scott can tune the fuel map enough to make it happy. The rig straight parties when it wants to, if i can bridge the gap between the temperamental atomic that was on it and make it run good 90% of the time ill be overjoyed.
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I mean put modern EFI on the Big Block. It's totally do-able.
 
Bebop said:
I mean put modern EFI on the Big Block. It's totally do-able.
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100% agree, in transparency I'm trying to keep the full reworking to a minimum less I lose the whole season of wheeling. I'm sure i could handle doing MPFI and tuning with the time, but i don't want to add it on top of the current to-dos. Once the list gets smaller and my big boy engine gets out of builder jail i do plan to revisit that. Unless the sniper 2 works good enough. I'm not looking to capitalize on every 1/2hp available. To be honest the atomic fits my needs for 80% of the usage, it cruises and starts great and handles WOT ok. It doesn't like low rpm crawling much, and does weird things with killing itself under partial load (which again in transparency could very well have been a voltage/ground issue)
 
Sniper works great for me. It does have the wet manifold issues like a toilet, but also the intake charge cooling from fuel atomization of said wet runners. Cheap, tunes itself, easy to work on, decent custom tuning support, works well with nitrous. Absolutely no hesitation from idle to WOT, lights up 40s with ease :smokin:
 
Bebop said:
Drivability is the improvement with MPFI.
If you want max power on the dyno, get a carb and a single plane.
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Listen here, i watch engine masters too okay:flipoff2:

One day ill stop being a dinosaur and get a modern powerplant with modern EFI.

But its not today :smokin:
rattle_snake said:
Sniper works great for me. It does have the wet manifold issues like a toilet, but also the intake charge cooling from fuel atomization of said wet runners. Cheap, tunes itself, easy to work on, decent custom tuning support, works well with nitrous. Absolutely no hesitation from idle to WOT, lights up 40s with ease :smokin:
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All im looking for right there
 
Made some decent progress, got the bulkheads mounted, soldered the ends on all the 0 and 4 gauge main feeds, temporary mounted the relay box, disconnect, and routed some of the lines through the firewall approx where im going to mount the pass through

Pretty impressed with the construction of the MSD relay box. Pulled the bar off the trans fan/starter relay as those are going to be 12v + activated and the cooling fans with be - activated via the sniper control.

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Also test fit my new dash layout and it didn't fit at all. Glad i burned it out of 24g galvi first before the 10g aluminum. :grinpimp:

Redesigned the layout this morning. I'm partial to my analog gauges but the layout fits a lot better if dump the volt gauge and water temp gauge. Both of which obviously will be monitored via the sniper 5" display as well so i don't need them......

Also im a shade tree mechanic so if i made some bad juju wiring choices hit me now.

Battery -> Bulkhead ->Disconnect 0g wire
Disconnect -> Relay Box 4g
Relay ->Radiator Fans 8g
Relay -> Starter 10g
Relay -> Trans Fan 14g (its been like this for 4 years and doesn't get hot, some low amp Derale unit so i left it alone)


I'm really considering dumping the painless fuse box i have, im 95% sure the only things its controlling circuit wise are headlights, running lights, and brake lights. Already have a switch for the headlights, just need another relay. Planning to run the dash/running lights off the ignition panel fused switch.

Which just leaves brake lights that i can run off the ignition hot distribution block I'm waiting on tied into the brake switch.
 
Slow but steady, got the relay mounts built and mounted along with the ignition box and coil, also go the paddle shifters wired up and appearing to work.

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Still going through and putting home runs into wire looms and tidying up the highways. My boy loves this thing, gets his little step ladder and jumps in to help dad any chance he gets

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He's probably better than me at wiring already, should just let him do it :smokin:
 
Got the sniper in yesterday, the distributor is on back order so i cant put in the hyperspark ignition box or coil (guess i could put the coil in but meh) and Scott warned me the sniper 2 may not like the 6al msd and msd pro billet distributor. In principle it should be able to control timing the same as the atomic did, and the sniper setup has the provisions for it. But she doesn't want to run.

Fuel pump primes, engine fires, and then immediately dies. From what I can tell its not getting a run/rpm signal from the ignition box/distributor.

There is a RPM out signal wire from the box that I'm waiting to hear back from Scott if i can tie into the sniper somehow, if not my thoughts are i have distributor on the shelf that has its guts in it (the MSD pro billet has them removed since the EFI was controlling timing) so i should be able to tell the sniper let the ignition box control timing, slap that bad boy in there and time it and let it run?

Trying to make a weekend shakedown run with my dad and his new rig otherwise id just be patient and wait for the correct distributor to get here and run the whole sniper ecosystem as designed
 
This is what i have right now


I definitely agree theres a wire not connected im just missing how to do it correct,

I think its either the "RPM output" grey wire or the "Points" wire that is white.

In the attached PDF it sure looks like white to white solves it......
 

Attachments

  • Sniper Wiring.pdf
    386 KB · Views: 2
I'm assuming you saw this ?
Grey wire.

 
Bebop said:
I'm assuming you saw this ?
Grey wire.

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I did, i think we figured it out.

I have the wiring going Distributor to Cd box and CD box to sniper but it needs to go distributor to sniper and sniper to Cd box.

There's a 3 prong plug on the sniper harness that controls the hyper spark that i need to adapt to the 2 prong magnetic pick-up on the pro billet distributor, that's what kept throwing me off is i didn't understand how to get the distributor to the sniper.

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the grey rpm output wire is for a tach, not for the sniper to do anything with apparently
 
I have wired various MSD systems, but non of the Holley systems.

Judging from the pdf you have supplied, then yes. White wire to white wire.

From what I can tell, you want to control the timing though the sniper.

To do that, lock out the distributor. You don't want centrifugal advance going against the timing the Sniper is providing.

Hook up the sniper purple and green wire to the MSD pick up wires (purple and orange)

Do not hookup the MSD box purple and green wire to anything. The MSD box signal input is either the white wire or the purple/green wires but not both at the same time.

Edit, too late.
 
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"There's a 3 prong plug on the sniper harness that controls the hyper spark that i need to adapt to the 2 prong magnetic pick-up on the pro billet distributor, that's what kept throwing me off is i didn't understand how to get the distributor to the sniper."

What color are the wires for the three prong plug? The third wire might just be a ground wire.
 
Never mind about anything I said. From what I saw from the video, nothing I said not how they want to hook things up, and how Holly wants to hook things don't make sense.

Edit.
It sort make sense, but if you wire things like that video, you are not going to have control of ignition timing though the sniper.
 
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JDNobodi said:
Never mind about anything I said. From what I saw from the video, nothing I said not how they want to hook things up, and how Holly wants to hook things don't make sense.

Edit.
It sort make sense, but if you wire things like that video, you are not going to have control of ignition timing though the sniper.
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The last picture i posted is correct per Scott at EFIsystems and my own logic. The white output wire from the sniper harness hooks the to 6al CD box only. The purple/green wires from the distributor hook to the sniper harness only via a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter or splicing.


To be clear this is all short term due to the hyperspark distributor being on back order. In that ecosystem the 3 prong connectors just plugs into the distributor and life is good
 
Going by Scott's diagram, I would separate the purple and green wire from that three prong connector and hook it up to the distributor. The only thing I disagree about is hooking purple to purple and green to orange. I don't know why MSD did this, but on thier own systems, they have purple to orange and green to purple.
If you hook it up backwards, it would run but it would affect the timing in a strange way.
 
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As you found the sniper must go in between the distributor pickup and ign box to be able to delay (aka control) the spark event.
 
JDNobodi said:
Going by Scott's diagram, I would separate the purple and green wire from that three prong connector and hook it up to the distributor. The only thing I disagree about is hooking purple to purple and green to orange. I don't know why MSD did this, but on thier own systems, they have purple to orange and green to purple.
If you hook it up backwards, it would run but it would affect the timing in a strange way.
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It ran last night, did just this pulled the 3 prong apart and wired it into the two wires off the distributor. Looks like I may make the weekend trip after all. Going to get the dash mocked in today/tomorrow and wire loom the rest of the random solo runs and hopefully do some property testing Friday
 
Got the dash back in, switches mounted and wired up, everything has been home ran. I have a bit of a nest with the Holley sniper harness being coiled up until i install the hyperspark coil and box but man is it so much cleaner. I don't get anxiety when i look under there anymore. Although compared to some of yall I'm sure its still a mess :flipoff2:

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Not over the moon with where the 5" dash ended up, i can see it, and its really not monitoring any of my critical items those are all analog gauges, but the visibility behind the paddle shifters is pretty limited. The only thing it will be nice to see when on the street would be the GPS speedo.

somehow i broke the throttle cable end when i was tightening it down, so a new lokar cable should be here today, along with some new Moroso valve cover breathers because mine are puking oil on the headers
 
Went in to Fordyce Saturday for a quick shakedown, we planned for rain but not constant rain so at the 2nd pool after the first water crossing we decided to flip around and come back.

The sniper worked flawlessly, my intermit dying problem under partial load was 100% the atomic efi. I think looking at the old wiring it was a comm issue with the distributor but regardless its gone now. Idle is 10x better, throttle response is 20x better. AFR is leaps better too. I had a scary lean spot off idle where the truck lives most its crawling life from 1500-1900 right before full timing tilt in where it would ride 17-18:1 at times. Now it jumps from 13-13.8 which i can live with all day.

Really happy with the layout of the dash and switches now. The only gauge i cant see awesome is the fuel level gauge which isn't something i need to monitor anyways.


The trans is being a fickled bitched still. I was hoping more issues were ground related. I have one last hunch i need to test, my brake switch is out of adjustment (bottomed out) so the brakes stay ON all the time. Well theres a brake signal wire going to the trans harness to allow it to shift. One of my issues is when ive been driving for a bit it, if i shift from D-R and then try to go back to D it wont take it. So i have to cycle ignition and then all is well. I'm thinking because it never sees the signal stop it errors out after time?

Additionally the paddles are commanding shifting but the TCM isnt taking it. Russell over at SGE believes the tcm file may not have it enabled, going to pull that tonight and send it over for review.
 
Glade to hear the Sniper worked for you. I put mine on over the weekend, and cant get the RPMs to drop below about 2000
 
Bebop said:
Engage static timing and adjust throttle stop
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This. Also my IAC screw was set in the 50% range from the factory, had to back it out quite a bit to get it to the 2-10% at idle. Make sure your TPS stays at 0% when adjusting as well.

The TBI EFI systems are not complicated but if you fuck up the initial setup procedure they never work.
 
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75RamRunner said:
The TBI EFI systems are complicated but if you fuck up the initial setup procedure they never work.
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All EFI systems are more complicated than a carb.
But TBIs are the simplest of them all.
You need to follow the instructions and they work OK.
 
Bebop said:
All EFI systems are more complicated than a carb.
But TBIs are the simplest of them all.
You need to follow the instructions and they work OK.
Click to expand...
I'm a retard. i meant to put not complicated but the fingers dont move as fast as the brain sometimes.

Not sure if it was how the atomic was picking up/controlling timing but the sniper 2 is wayyyyyy more consistent. I can tell in the idle sound too its much happier.

Not trying to fanboy it but its extremely evident the jump in technology, which was the entire premise of the upgrade.

Got my brakes in from BKO and they're assuring me the caliper swap will be the difference maker. Ill detail that as i dive into it

Thank You
 
Imagine when you go to a real EFI with sequential injection and ignition :stirthepot::lmao:
 
Well long update with no pictures, so its basically worthless but ill type it anyways

Got the brakes on and wasn't really impressed, kept bleeding and bleeding and no improvement.

Well i looked at my pedal fab a little harder and the damn clevis had turned itself in and wasnt pushing the rod into the master until almost half my pedal travel. Got that retightened and man what a difference! she stops in a hurry now. Not race car stopping but for a big pig on 43s, id say more than acceptable.

In that whole downtime i ended up rebuilding the hubs, new races and bearings, repacked the Yukon locking hubs, and new flex lines. The drivers front on is a little short, probably should've gone 24" instead of 18" but its not current binding anything so I'm going to run it for a bit and see if it unalive itself or not.

Got the paddle shifters wired and working, makes the rig a whole nother level of stupid fun.

My last clean-up item is remounting the brake switch, i just was never happy wtth it before, going to see if i cant rework the mount and before i go to a pressure switch. Have to have it for the trans to shift, and you know, brake lights....ill get some pictures of all the new shiny before i fuck it up too
 
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