RamRunner Refresh

Valve lash looks good.
AFR in check.
No glitter in the oil.

I'd send it.

I may keep this engine in her for KOH just because backdoor always seems to try to kill bearing from lack of oil PSI, but then the desert party wont be as fun with 200 less hp.....decision decisions

Ghp1YcY.mp4




Waiting on the valley plate to throw her all back together and then see if i can shove her in the toy hauler on rollers to get the can-am in there as well. Jenga time :flipoff2:
 
I may keep this engine in her for KOH just because backdoor always seems to try to kill bearing from lack of oil PSI, but then the desert party wont be as fun with 200 less hp.....decision decisions

Ghp1YcY.mp4




Waiting on the valley plate to throw her all back together and then see if i can shove her in the toy hauler on rollers to get the can-am in there as well. Jenga time :flipoff2:

Nitrous?:beer:
 
Well goodish update?

Finally had sometime to change the oil and check lash, cut the filter open and no shinny's or particles so that's cool. there was a little more clumped on the magnetic drain bolt than id prefer but its also a 60 year old short block.

I pulled the lifters again because i thought i was being dumb, i couldn't find a lash spec on the cam card details (photo of a photo from the previous owner) and lo and behold i was. They're hydraulic flat tappets. Went on summit and found the cam just to verify and it is indeed a hydraulic.

Reinstalled the rocker rod and torqued down, then checked every valve using good ole mama Mopar's 90 degree technique. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 4-6 had little no preload, with 2-3 of those actually having significant gaps.

So my hope is that while the oil is thick/cold they're pumped up enough to bridge the gap and that's why they're not making noise and at RPM/Warmed up the oil thinned and the gap is causing the tick.

Milled the heat crossover off the bottom of the RPM dual plane manifold i have because id like to keep it instead of going to the single plane, and the new valley plate doesn't have room for the crossover. And blocks it off at the heads.

Gaskets and plate should be here today so i can bolt it back together and see if she's fixed or if she's going to have to show me what's wrong :flipoff2:
 
Well goodish update?

Finally had sometime to change the oil and check lash, cut the filter open and no shinny's or particles so that's cool. there was a little more clumped on the magnetic drain bolt than id prefer but its also a 60 year old short block.

I pulled the lifters again because i thought i was being dumb, i couldn't find a lash spec on the cam card details (photo of a photo from the previous owner) and lo and behold i was. They're hydraulic flat tappets. Went on summit and found the cam just to verify and it is indeed a hydraulic.

Reinstalled the rocker rod and torqued down, then checked every valve using good ole mama Mopar's 90 degree technique. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 4-6 had little no preload, with 2-3 of those actually having significant gaps.

So my hope is that while the oil is thick/cold they're pumped up enough to bridge the gap and that's why they're not making noise and at RPM/Warmed up the oil thinned and the gap is causing the tick.

Milled the heat crossover off the bottom of the RPM dual plane manifold i have because id like to keep it instead of going to the single plane, and the new valley plate doesn't have room for the crossover. And blocks it off at the heads.

Gaskets and plate should be here today so i can bolt it back together and see if she's fixed or if she's going to have to show me what's wrong :flipoff2:
Least you learned something in all of that checking/rechecking/checking again 👍
 
Got the valley pan on and intake last night, started installing the valve cover studs because I'm tired of oil drips on the headers.

Valley pan is way too nice for this powerplant but maybe some bling will raise her spirits into behaving for a bit :grinpimp:

mxBpXcE.jpg


Intake back on

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My valve cover gaskets didn't show so ill grab a set from the local napa and run those i guess, i have some nice steel core ones but they dont appear to be wide enough for the factory sealing surface. I'm sure they are if they land just ***s but like i said, tired of the drips.
 
Got the gaskets on, covers installed valve cover studs was the move, i don't know why i was being stubborn with the factory bolts. The studs seats the gasket way better and no shifting when installing the cover

Fired her up in the shop just to make sure there wasn't any loud banging from my dirty fingers touching everything. Its too close to the walls in the shop to hear anything over the exhaust but it seems to be happy/happier

Pull it out today and see what's what. Its showing snow over the pass this weekend so I may not attempt the full loaded child and innocent bystander slayer of a trailer load like I was originally intending for this trip.
 
Small Update:

Noise is gone. 100% was the valves out of adjustment/no preload on 4-6 total. Kinda wild to me they backed off that far. Engine is significantly quieter as far as mechanical noise, funny how that works :grinpimp:

Put the top on because rain, and I like to cruise it with the half doors and the top.

The trans still has some gremlins, as the convertor loads up in reverse if it takes 1/2 a second too long to grab the trans will "limp mode" itself into neutral. Not a huge deal, just shift back to park and again into reverse and it goes fine.

All forward gears work fine, actually they work great. Downshifts firm and fast. Starting to develop a distrust similar to the 727 but for different reasons. The 727 always made me worried about overheating and never was in the right gear. When the 8hp75 works, it ****ing works but these specific scenarios that result in shifting to neutral really seem to be prevalent at times, and completely absent at others.

There's snow on the hill now, talking about hitting it with a few golf carts soon to go play around
 
Small Update:

Noise is gone. 100% was the valves out of adjustment/no preload on 4-6 total. Kinda wild to me they backed off that far. Engine is significantly quieter as far as mechanical noise, funny how that works :grinpimp:
Nice.

The trans still has some gremlins, as the convertor loads up in reverse if it takes 1/2 a second too long to grab the trans will "limp mode" itself into neutral. Not a huge deal, just shift back to park and again into reverse and it goes fine.

All forward gears work fine, actually they work great. Downshifts firm and fast. Starting to develop a distrust similar to the 727 but for different reasons. The 727 always made me worried about overheating and never was in the right gear. When the 8hp75 works, it ****ing works but these specific scenarios that result in shifting to neutral really seem to be prevalent at times, and completely absent at others.
They make adapters so you can install a proper GM transmission that works behind your POS with properly adjusted valves now :laughing::flipoff2:
Or, going to a dedicated standalone controller with no OEM ECU will solve anything electronic. I have contacts if you so desire.
 
They make adapters so you can install a proper GM transmission that works behind your POS with properly adjusted valves now :laughing::flipoff2:
Or, going to a dedicated standalone controller with no OEM ECU will solve anything electronic. I have contacts if you so desire.

You leave that big gay orange truck and my boat anchor of a powerplant alone :flipoff2:

The 8hp is controlled by a standalone PCS tcm, only inputs it sees are TPS and RPM, everything else comes from the OEM valve body. Id imagine there a slippage parameter that's reading and giving the go/no go to stay in gear. It acts like a th400 that's low on fluid in reverse. I'm going to check fluid level one more time, its a total pain in the ass. Warm up to 100, perfectly level, no dipstick so pull the fill plug and if it doesn't drip out add more. Doesn't help there's a driveshaft right next to the fill plug. Like it was designed for a drivers drop or something....


But i may take your contact regardless. I'm just smart enough to get into the programming and **** it all up so i try to not modify too much as far as the software is concerned
 
The 8hp is controlled by a standalone PCS tcm, only inputs it sees are TPS and RPM, everything else comes from the OEM valve body.
The external aftermarket TCU gets rid of the OEM VB and controls the solenoids directly.

But i may take your contact regardless. I'm just smart enough to get into the programming and **** it all up so i try to not modify too much as far as the software is concerned
My contact doesn't deal with the same system you have.
We will help you get rid of the OEM TCU that is integrated in the VB and replace it with a fully programmable external TCU.

Lets you do **** like this :



:smokin:
 
My contact doesn't deal with the same system you have.
We will help you get rid of the OEM TCU that is integrated in the VB and replace it with a fully programmable external TCU.

Lets you do **** like this :



:smokin:


1732549951182.png
 
The external aftermarket TCU gets rid of the OEM VB and controls the solenoids directly.


My contact doesn't deal with the same system you have.
We will help you get rid of the OEM TCU that is integrated in the VB and replace it with a fully programmable external TCU.

Lets you do **** like this :



:smokin:


That’s freakin cool!
 
Very.
I don't want to dedicate the budget for this at the moment. But I've been wanting to play with an 8HP for a lil while now. They are super rad.

I'm super impressed with the trans itself, all my gripes are either setup/tuning related which have nothing to do with its internals and everything to do with the idiot trying to make it work (me).

I can't tell you the number of times if taken someone for a ride spinning the 43s through 3rd, just to get into 6th and cruise watch them start counting on their fingers and go "how many ****ing gears this thing have?" :lmao:

I rarely get into 8th. or 7th. I also don't have the balls to be doing 100+ on the street with full hydro and balloon tires
 
Fun update, took my 2 year old out for rip on turkey day, cruising on the back roads and all seemed normal, then the throttle pedal got real light, looked down and watched the temp gauges start creeping above 185 (it doesn't move above that ever now with the new fans) starts running like poo, pull over and it turns itself off, Coolant all over the passenger collector tubes, but the radiator and pump look fine, I can see coolant in the exhaust outlet so i know bad things happened,

One of these things is not like the other

VhMz8Da.jpg


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Plug out of the # 6 hole

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Plug out of # 4

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So that's less cool :shaking: not really ideal timing, not that it ever is. Also pretty disappointed it was cruising at 50-60 on a two lane road and not ripping through whoops at 70 and 5k plus RPMS at least id feel justified then:laughing:.......

I got the truck broken down to the point i just need a second set of hands to hold the crank bolt so i can break to TC bolts loose then yank it out.

Engine builder says the new powerplant is shipping before end of next week so there's hope there. But im a bit over killing the big blocks though and i don't want to unalive a nicer powerplant. Pops thinks i need a dry sump system, which may in part be true, 440s are notorious for poor oiling from the factory.

I can also run up to Carson City and get some chinesium aluminum heads from 440source and head gaskets and slap them on the current block and get her back up and running for less than 1600 bucks. She still had 50psi or more when she went down.

Theres also a decent chance i wiped the rings in that cylinder given how the plug looks, considering doing the wrong thing the right way and pulling the piston and replacing the rings and putting it back in.
 
takes no time to install an accusump, a new set of rings and a new headgasket.
**** buying new heads.

And get a real EFI system before putting the new fancy engine in
 
takes no time to install an accusump, a new set of rings and a new headgasket.
**** buying new heads.

And get a real EFI system before putting the new fancy engine in

I do think i need an accusump regardless. Its cheap insurance.

I talked to your tuner and i wish i had of known about him prior. Cool dude, great info. I'm not ready to just ****can the entire PCS/sniper system as it does work. Just not quite the right for this truck. Figuring out if im going to swap the 8spd/PCS into the wifes stock k10 and it would work great for that application. then i could rebox the sniper 2 and id feel better about a terminator or similar system paired with the better Trans controller.

I'm anticipating new heads because something bent the spark plug closed and it may have just been water pressure but there may be a suprise in there too.....

But i do think rings, gasket, accusump and beat on is the best move for KOH.
 
I talked to your tuner and i wish i had of known about him prior. Cool dude, great info.
He's one of the many guys I use. Different applications require different people.
But for what you want, he's the guy.

I'm not ready to just ****can the entire PCS/sniper system as it does work. Just not quite the right for this truck. Figuring out if im going to swap the 8spd/PCS into the wifes stock k10 and it would work great for that application. then i could rebox the sniper 2 and id feel better about a terminator or similar system paired with the better Trans controller.
Sell the stuff an move on. You'll wonder why you didn't do it before.

But i do think rings, gasket, accusump and beat on is the best move for KOH.
KISS, always.
It's faster and cheaper.
 
Just got back from a 4 day trip in Canada, have 60-70 tons of rock getting delivered today i need to spread on a pad for my junk to sit on so i can get to it without mud bogging. Amidst that task im going to try to get the motor out this weekend, at a minimum compression test that cylinder (probably do the whole engine for ****s and giggles)
 
Very.
I don't want to dedicate the budget for this at the moment. But I've been wanting to play with an 8HP for a lil while now. They are super rad.
I am all about "8HP the world" I have the 6l80 in my rig right now and when I bought my 6l80 years back I really wanted to 8HP swap mine but it wasnt nearly as common to put an 8HP behind an LS at the time.
 
So i have this cool custom piston now:shaking:

QzjJSwd.jpg


xx2JMGt.jpg


Got the head a little too

E7CHlPl.jpg



From what i can tell head gasket went, piston ring broke, ring got stuck on side of piston and just sanded itself off. Ironically the wall looks pretty decent everywhere but the two marring spots. Its an OG 1969 block so I think it'll clean up at .10-.20 over.

It almost looks like the rings wouldn't even contact the rough spot just the top of the piston. Not worth the risk. Think I'm going to fully dissemble this one and send it off to get cleaned up checked and then i'll reassemble for a backup engine/street rod powerplant. Has forged crank and rods from the factory, get some new pistons and she would be a good runner.

Still had 45-55 psi of oil pressure sham to take her all the way down.......
 
Maybe a nice chevy 305 would be good fit, reliable and basically same power as a 440.:stirthepot:

y'all love to hate that old boat anchor! They make roughly 350hp/450tq from the factory in stock trim so its not that much of a slouch with a intake and cam added,

im only averaging a motor every other year okay.....
 
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